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Old 01-20-2013, 06:51 PM   #73066
Rob.G
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New question... how do you guys go about deburring these holes? I got 'em all drilled, but now they have sharp edges, which the instructions say are a no-no.

I have a Dremel... suppose I could use that.

Rob
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Old 01-20-2013, 07:31 PM   #73067
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I didn't drill mine (someone else did), but typically I just run the drill in and out a few times and it cleans up the edges.
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Old 01-20-2013, 07:37 PM   #73068
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrprez View Post
I finished mine a few months ago but I'm still not happy with the rear shock. The slow speed damping doesn't feel like it has changed at all. I still get that pogo stick feeling when riding on surface streets. I haven't been able to take it out on any dirt stuff as yet. Did yours tighten up enough where you don't feel like it is riding on just the spring?
Yes, it's stiff in fact, but doesn't feel like it's riding on the spring. That's how it felt in stock form like it was riding solely on the spring.

I rode again today and went over a little dirt jump the kids around the neighborhood use on their bicycles. I didn't jump it due to all the mud, just up and over a few times as if it were "whoops". My bike follows the terrain really well. Both tires stay planted to the ground. I know what you mean by the pogo because that's what my stock suspension felt like, but a really soft pogo stick. Now it's a stiffly, firmly planted, completely connected to the ground feeling. I'm still not sure whether it's a little too stiff, but I'm almost thinking riding for the last 18+ months with the stock suspension has made me forget what a good set up should feel like. Mine feels like the compression is stiff and the rebound just sticks the bike to the ground...no pogo. Hope that helps. BTW, when are the tires coming again!?
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Old 01-20-2013, 08:05 PM   #73069
neo1piv014
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Just some more carb tuning questions for the board here. This one is fairly straight forward:
is the white spacer supposed to sit right up against the bottom of the needle clip? When I took the spacer off my old needle and put it on this one, it goes almost all the way up to where the clip is, but then gets wedged into place very solidly. I wound up having to use a decent amount of force to get the damn thing off again. I also noticed that I have a very small washer that sits right below my white spacer. Is this factory, or was someone trying to tune the carb before, and I should take it off now that I have the adjustable needle?

Switching from my old, bent needle to the non-USA OEM needle did get rid of some of the surging I had been experiencing, but I think I'm running way too rich. My fuel economy is now down to the 35-36 range, and that's cruising 65-75 on the highway with some small around town trips. I've noticed that I've lost a smidgen of power, and there is some surging at low RPMs around maybe 1/3 or 1/4 throttle that doesn't feel quite right. Looking at Derek's chart for it, that falls within the realm of clip position, and I'm thinking that if that spacer isn't where it's supposed to be, I'm running insanely too rich. My fuel economy has been a problem since I first got this bike, so if it really was this simple the whole time, I'm going to feel like a dolt.
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Old 01-20-2013, 08:08 PM   #73070
canoli
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
With about 7500 miles on the beast today I changed out the rear and front brake fluid.

Here is about the first inch-worth's of fluid coming out of the front...
Hope I put newer fluid in it in time to prevent the front from seizing up too soon.

What are you using to flush/bleed the system and how long did it take? Local dealer wants $99 p/hr for service and I'm not about to get ripped off so I was going to try and do this myself.


Thanks,
Canoli
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Old 01-20-2013, 08:31 PM   #73071
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
is the white spacer supposed to sit right up against the bottom of the needle clip?
Yes.
Quote:
When I took the spacer off my old needle and put it on this one, it goes almost all the way up to where the clip is, but then gets wedged into place very solidly.
It's good that some force is required to get the spacer all the way against the clip. This will help prevent the needle from spinning during operation, which otherwise causes needle wear (see the needle on the left here: www.moto-lab.com/gallery/view?itemid=306).
Quote:
I also noticed that I have a very small washer that sits right below my white spacer. Is this factory, or was someone trying to tune the carb before, and I should take it off now that I have the adjustable needle?
Leave it out.
Quote:
Switching from my old, bent needle to the non-USA OEM needle did get rid of some of the surging I had been experiencing, but I think I'm running way too rich. My fuel economy is now down to the 35-36 range, and that's cruising 65-75 on the highway with some small around town trips. I've noticed that I've lost a smidgen of power, and there is some surging at low RPMs around maybe 1/3 or 1/4 throttle that doesn't feel quite right. Looking at Derek's chart for it, that falls within the realm of clip position, and I'm thinking that if that spacer isn't where it's supposed to be, I'm running insanely too rich.
Indeed.

Remind me though, how many miles are there on the carb, and have you already inspected the slide guide, emulsion tube, slide and float needle for wear/damage?

Regards,

Derek
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Old 01-20-2013, 08:46 PM   #73072
JagLite
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Thumb bleeding time

Quote:
Originally Posted by canoli View Post
What are you using to flush/bleed the system and how long did it take? Local dealer wants $99 p/hr for service and I'm not about to get ripped off so I was going to try and do this myself.


Thanks,
Canoli
That is probably their one hour minimum charge?

It took me maybe 5 minutes to do the rear and a couple minutes longer on the front.

I bought a speed bleeder at NAPA (auto parts store) for around $5 or so.
Just a simple check valve with a piece of tubing on each end.
Loosen the bleed bolt, stick the tube on it with the other end in a drain cup and start pumping.
Add more fluid as the reservoir allows until only clean and clear fluid is coming out.
Tighten the bleed screw and check the feel.
Hard as rock for me with ss lines.

I probably took me longer to type this than it took to do one wheel, but I type slowly...
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Old 01-20-2013, 08:57 PM   #73073
JagLite
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Cool2

Quote:
Originally Posted by trailrider383 View Post
The $498 includes a new spring. If you get the shaft assembly only from Racetech it's $399.99 minus %15 = $339.99

http://www.racetech.com/page/title/S...t%20Assemblies

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...76&postcount=1
Yes, and if you noticed in my post, the Cogent shock shaft assembly without spring is only $295.
Still a better deal than $339.99.

I do not know what the differences are between the Raceteck and the Cogent assemblies are.
Since Cogent is an authorized Racetech shop, they would be able to explain the differences.
One big advantage is that Rick at Cogent rides a DR650 so he knows the bike well.

Either way you can't go wrong, they will both make a huge improvement over stock.
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Old 01-20-2013, 09:36 PM   #73074
neo1piv014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Yes.It's good that some force is required to get the spacer all the way against the clip. This will help prevent the needle from spinning during operation, which otherwise causes needle wear (see the needle on the left here: www.moto-lab.com/gallery/view?itemid=306).Leave it out.Indeed.

Remind me though, how many miles are there on the carb, and have you already inspected the slide guide, emulsion tube, slide and float needle for wear/damage?

Regards,

Derek
As of today, there's 12,445 miles on the bike, and I'm assuming that the factory carb is the one on there. The PO had stated that he put a DJ kit on the bike, but the needle definitely wasn't a DJ needle. The plug for the mixture screw had been removed, and the airbox had been opened up, however, so something had been done to it. I didn't notice anything that immediately stuck out as being worn out compared to the pictures on the BST Bible thread, but I've also not seen any brand new ones in person either.

Assuming I get the spacer forced up to where the the clip is, I would raise the clip position to lean things out a bit, correct?
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Old 01-20-2013, 09:40 PM   #73075
acesandeights
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
...
I do not know what the differences are between the Raceteck and the Cogent assemblies are.
Since Cogent is an authorized Racetech shop, they would be able to explain the differences...
I just measured the Race Tech shock shaft assembly and it is larger in diameter than the stock shaft. I was told that before buying, but didn't know until I measured it myself. So, it's a larger, stronger shaft with more bearing surface. I don't know what other difference(s) there might be.
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Old 01-20-2013, 09:49 PM   #73076
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thumper Dan View Post
Actually, I've got the exact same one and find it great. I saw it on special for $99 a few months back but nonetheless is still worth the $150. I can actually move the bike around whilst its jacked up, up have never had an issue of it toppling off. Great for turning the bike around!

Have fun.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyrepower View Post
That looks shit hot exile730, now all you need is a Safari tank, some Wolfman racks, Wolfman Saddle bags and you will be ready for the Canning Stock Route in July....

Cheers Richo.
Swan View.
Thumper Dan and Richo ... waste of band width to quote back all the photos from the original post. We've all seen them ... no need to RE-POST them.
Might I suggest you go back and EDIT them out of your posts?
Bad internet manners. Leave the pics OFF on replies ... especially when they are 4- X Large ones.
Cheers!
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Old 01-20-2013, 09:54 PM   #73077
Mambo Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canoli View Post
What are you using to flush/bleed the system and how long did it take? Local dealer wants $99 p/hr for service and I'm not about to get ripped off so I was going to try and do this myself.


Thanks,
Canoli
Like Jaglite just said... it's too easy for that if you know to just not let air get into the system.

The only tools I used were the vice grips to loosen the bleeder screw, and some old piece of clear tubing/hose I found to guide the dripping fluid down into a oil catch pan (and to keep the fluid off of the rotors).

The rear - bleeds itself. Unbolt the rear brake reservoir to have easy access, loosen the bleed screw until it's dripping out, and just keep adding fresh fluid in the resevior to make sure it doesn't get low enough to suck air in. Toward the end tighten up the bleed screw/bolt/nipple, then top off the fluid and replace the reservoir.

The front - it wouldn't all just gravity-drip out, so I would pump the brake lever with my left hand while loosening and tightening the nipple/bleeder with the right hand to push old fluid out (the brake lever pushed the fluid out, close the bleeder, pump the lever, loosen the bleeder, hold lever down, tighten the bleeder, repeat a bunch of times).

Really only took the minutes that Jaglite says it does.

I used blue loctite on the two front top reservoir screws as an anti-seize since I have had those screws seize on another bike of mine (and since I couldn't find my real anti-seize), and ... ooh yeah ... most imperative - blue loctite on the 10mm bolt that holds the rear reservoir on since it was way loose! It would have fallen out soon.

---

It takes probably 15 minutes, total, from gathering the tools to finishing it up. Pay me ... $50 and I'll do it for ya

That's damned near a 49.5% discount!

-----

for more of an idea of all my special bleeder tools, here is a shot of the rear while it was gravity-bleeding itself:



Here the vice grips that I used on the bleeder are gently holding the tubing down to keep the tubing's end from falling out of the catch-basin. I didn't want brake fluid on my walk way.
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Old 01-20-2013, 09:59 PM   #73078
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
New question... how do you guys go about deburring these holes? I got 'em all drilled, but now they have sharp edges, which the instructions say are a no-no.

I have a Dremel... suppose I could use that.

Rob
I used a Rat tail file and emery cloth. It takes a while. Make sure you clean all metal debris out. Rinse out well.
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Old 01-20-2013, 10:15 PM   #73079
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
As of today, there's 12,445 miles on the bike, and I'm assuming that the factory carb is the one on there.
I would definitely recommend verifying that the depth of the indentations concentric with the bore in the bottom corners adjacent to where the slide bottoms are still at least .010" deep. If they are not, the emulsion tube is at risk for wear, which will cause an excessively rich mixture at low to low mid rpm.
Quote:
The PO had stated that he put a DJ kit on the bike, but the needle definitely wasn't a DJ needle.
Has the slide lift hole area been increased by drilling? If so, slide guide, slide and emulsion tube wear will have accelerated as a result.
Quote:
I didn't notice anything that immediately stuck out as being worn out compared to the pictures on the BST Bible thread, but I've also not seen any brand new ones in person either.
Measuring the the indentations concentric with the bore in the bottom corners adjacent to where the slide bottoms is key.
Quote:
Assuming I get the spacer forced up to where the the clip is, I would raise the clip position to lean things out a bit, correct?
After having verified good slide guide and therefore emulsion tube condition, float needle condition, correct float height, and correct main jet size, yes.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 01-20-2013, 10:34 PM   #73080
trailrider383
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
Yes, and if you noticed in my post, the Cogent shock shaft assembly without spring is only $295.
Still a better deal than $339.99.

I do not know what the differences are between the Raceteck and the Cogent assemblies are.
Since Cogent is an authorized Racetech shop, they would be able to explain the differences.
One big advantage is that Rick at Cogent rides a DR650 so he knows the bike well.

Either way you can't go wrong, they will both make a huge improvement over stock.
I think one difference is the Racetech assembly has their Gold Valve.
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