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Old 01-20-2013, 04:26 PM   #16
jclark83
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Any updates?
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Old 01-20-2013, 07:37 PM   #17
35xj OP
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pulled it apart today, both plugs are brown and dry, no obvious kinked vents, carb diaphragms look fine, fuel lines appear to be flowing fine. carbs well seated,no cutsin boots,etc nothing looks obviously wrong.
Smoke, some residue on rear cylinder exhaust from crank case breather being moved to a seperate filter at back cylinder. Rear cylinder(one i changed shims in) nothing obvious, everything still in spec.
Oil level looks good, coolant looks good, throttle, choke cables all moved freely.

Kinda stumped at the moment, not going to push my luck with it. going for the "ride of shame" tomorow in the bed of a truck!
both plugs looking so lean(did not look dry/brown at service) leads me back to a fuel delivery issue. fuel pump? as far as the smoke/chain rattle, we shall see!

i will update as i discover the issues for future reference!
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Old 01-20-2013, 07:39 PM   #18
35xj OP
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incidentally, if you stay up most of the night, researching the internet to try to figure out what the hell is wrong, you will be amazed/horrified at the potential "certain resolutions"
at one point i think it appeared that my bike had the crabs
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Old 01-20-2013, 07:47 PM   #19
Navin
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I had to pump my fuel via mouth air pressure thru the vent tube when my pump went out. Is your pump moving fuel?
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Old 01-20-2013, 08:01 PM   #20
35xj OP
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pump is moving fuel, fairly consistantly( pulled the outgoing hose, and let it pump, seemed to be ok) but im going to replace it,and then ill know!

here we go! ordered new fuel pump(another facet) and filter, h2w jettingkit with prefilter etc. new fuel hoses.Plan to get the fuel delivery as correct as possible, then try to figure out what else is wrong with it!
researched the oil pump spring etc this morning.
Hopefully, going through the fuel pump/jetting stuff, it will run well enough to try to diagnose the rattle issue.

Any thoughts on what else i should look into while its apart?

35xj screwed with this post 01-21-2013 at 09:52 AM
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Old 01-21-2013, 09:52 AM   #21
Douf
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Probably not the issue, but...

My KLR ran from new roughly as you describe. It was eventually diagnosed as a mis-timed cam. It was only off one tooth. You did mention replacing the shims on the rear cylinder...

Douf

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Old 01-21-2013, 05:52 PM   #22
35xj OP
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Thought about it a lot. Really. Starting to believe its a dying fuel pump
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Old 01-21-2013, 06:10 PM   #23
Navin
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Pressurize the tank when it starts to die. If it keeps running thats it.
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:45 PM   #24
BoulderGuy
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Assuming canisterectomy done and the brass nipples on the manifold are still blocked off? ( mine came off once and gave similar symptoms) Assuming tanks are vented properly and thats not starving the carbs? The high idle thing doesnt make me think fuel pump. High idle/ popping and down on power on my bike means I left the choke on. Choke cable sticking or bound up?
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Old 01-22-2013, 03:20 PM   #25
35xj OP
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no, pulling the choke killed it instantly.

i couldnt find anything unplugged/loose/leaking/or pinched, although, my vents on the inside of the tanks are really hard to get situated abtween the frame and tank is really hard to place without pinching. where should it be routed too?
the 2 on the front top of the tank are also hanging in thin air, they should vent the tank just fine?

my carb vent tubes were a little long and were out in the slip stream, not tucked away between the cylinders.
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Old 01-22-2013, 04:47 PM   #26
Katoom119
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Ok then if the choke kills it instantly the carbs are only starved of fuel at speed.

What would starve the carbs of fuel or air? Pinched vent hoses, the tank not venting, stopped up air filter, bad fuel pump, stopped up fuel line, stopped up carb jets.

Open the gas caps and ride it with them open. If it still does it then its not a vent issue. It has to be either poor fuel delivery OR too much air screwing up the ratio ala carb boot loose.
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Old 01-22-2013, 05:30 PM   #27
jclark83
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Vent hoses

The vent hoses half way down the inside of the tanks are drains for the gas caps. The drain holes that are visible when the gas caps are open drain here.
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Old 01-23-2013, 11:36 AM   #28
35xj OP
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well,update, kinda....

tearing it down.




no signs of waterpump leakage, no metal on anything, no bits of plastic, oil still looks brand new. its showing signs of blow by into the crabk case vent. having my vent routed back behind the rear cylinder into a breather, its is probably dripping onto the rear exhaust. that would explain some smoke?

so,on the way...
H2W jet kit
Facet pump/filter
new fuel lines
water pump kit
oil bypass spring/piston
plugs
seal for cc vent

anything else while its apart?
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Old 01-23-2013, 11:50 AM   #29
sprouty115
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Wow, that's no RD350...
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Old 01-23-2013, 01:39 PM   #30
TcRulz
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Hi, Check the six rotor bolts for loctite and that they are tight. My 03 950A bolts came out at 73000km, no loctite (should be green 648) and was told TSB done.....killed my rotor and stator and left me stranded.

The complete oil pressure regulator is cheap (Part no 60038010133) and you can bet if the piston is scored the bore will be too.

Check the top bearing in the left cover (supports the starter). These are only lubricated by an oil mist and I've had several that felt notchy.

Clutch bolts will be checked when you do the oil regulator. Have you replaced the clutch push rod with the one piece one. Replacing the balance shaft seaI should fix the oil retention issue. l think the rest you have covered.
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