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Old 01-20-2013, 09:06 PM   #46
Nanuq
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Location: Point Hope, Sitka & Biorka Island- all in Alaska
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Thank you so much for the write-up. I am an extremely visual person and this definitely helps out a lot for somebody that thinks like I do.


I've torn into my bike several times on the upper end and on the sides, but never down to the cylinder jug. Now I know how to do it.

It might be time for the 688 kit, I'm curious if you were swayed by either 688 or the 685 kit more?
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Old 01-20-2013, 09:12 PM   #47
rectangular OP
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Originally Posted by Nanuq View Post
It might be time for the 688 kit, I'm curious if you were swayed by either 688 or the 685 kit more?
The 685 kit is probably the better route to go in the long run. The 688 kit is really only made to be used when your 685 wears out. Unfortunately the 685 kit is backordered temporarily and I'm kind of impatient to get this bike running again. :) Plus, the 688 kit was $5 cheaper. Gotta stick to my budget!

I chatted with Eagle Mike on the phone briefly, and he said the 685 kit is getting a new stronger piston material, which is why it's currently out of stock.

People might have different thoughts on this, but that was my decision process.
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Old 01-21-2013, 06:54 AM   #48
Dan in Grand Rapids
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This thread is awesome, and you are doing exactly what I want to do to my KLR. I do have a question though. What did you you do with the chain when you took the jug off? I can't see the chain, and wonder what you are supposed to do with it. I have taken heads off of cars and was always worried that it would slip off the sprocket on the crank and the timing would get messed up. I look forward to more pics and details.
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Old 01-21-2013, 07:23 AM   #49
newcastleadam
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan in Grand Rapids View Post
This thread is awesome, and you are doing exactly what I want to do to my KLR. I do have a question though. What did you you do with the chain when you took the jug off? I can't see the chain, and wonder what you are supposed to do with it. I have taken heads off of cars and was always worried that it would slip off the sprocket on the crank and the timing would get messed up. I look forward to more pics and details.
I believe it is ziptied to the frame. A good thing about the KLR cam chain is that it can't slip off the bottom gears due to the chain guides. Of course having said that....
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Old 01-21-2013, 07:49 AM   #50
securety10
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May be in a similar scenario here pretty quick. Found an 08 that was run low on oil and destroyed the exhaust cam journal. I don't mind the top end is shot as the bike would be for my dad for our intended TAT trip this summer. I intended to do the 685 and headwork on any bike he got for improved reliability and better freeway cruising speeds when needed. It would be nice to save money on a bike that needs some of the work i planned to do. The only real issue is trying to determine if the bottom end sustained damage in the low oil state.
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Old 01-21-2013, 04:01 PM   #51
Old Kiwi#99
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Bottom end of the KLR is all roller bearing like a two stroke, so it will survive low oil flow & low pressure for longer, where plain bearings (ie cam journals) will die
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Old 01-21-2013, 04:25 PM   #52
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Cam chain tensioner removal;

I would have done that differently.

You have to take the center bolt out first. What you have done now is to leave a spring pushing on the tensioner even though there is nothing for it to tension (the other end of it should be applying tension to the chain).

The cam chain tensioner is now at the limit of its travel and now you need to remove the spring, reset the sliding part to fully closed, reinstall that part, then put the spring back in, and THEN put the center bolt in.

This all needs to happen AFTER you have put the cams back in the head.

Edit:

BTDT.
Loaned the bike to a guy who ran it low on oil. Oops!
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Old 01-21-2013, 04:36 PM   #53
newcastleadam
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Originally Posted by Old Kiwi#99 View Post
Bottom end of the KLR is all roller bearing like a two stroke, so it will survive low oil flow & low pressure for longer, where plain bearings (ie cam journals) will die
Had that happen to my first project KLR. Crank bearings failed, top end was fine. Still not sure how the PO did that.
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Old 01-21-2013, 04:37 PM   #54
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3. If the cam caps were installed backwards (with a poor fit), torqued to spec, and later discovered "worn" as you see them, then the tight/poor fit could be partly to blame for the poor lubrication which compounded the issue. Once they scored, the torque spec probably went into the crapper and they were later discovered "finger tight".
Give that man a cigar!

Also, a shot or two of compressed air to the spark plug area before taking everything in there apart is a good idea. It will clean out Timmy and his friends.
That area always fills up with small rocks, bugs, and crap.
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Old 01-21-2013, 05:25 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by newcastleadam View Post
Had that happen to my first project KLR. Crank bearings failed, top end was fine. Still not sure how the PO did that.
That is the main thing on the bottom end I am worried about, but cranks in good working condition seem to go for rather reasonable prices on ebay. Splitting the cases isn't that horrible, but I'd prefer to not have to do it.
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Old 01-22-2013, 01:54 PM   #56
Kevan Garrett
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Loving it.

Hey Rectangular.

Great build, thanks for the pics and info. Please keep up the good work. I have done the doohickey and the $.22 fix for the carb on my KLR's. I am not a particularly good wrench, but I would recommend that you take a look at the carb while you have everything off. Just generally checking of the float bowl and the diaphragm. And the $.22 fix (which cost me $.47, inflation) is really simple, though maybe unnecessary at higher altitudes.

Keep up the good work and thanks again. I am subscribed.

Cheers

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Old 01-22-2013, 02:01 PM   #57
rectangular OP
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Originally Posted by Kevan Garrett View Post
I have done the doohickey and the $.22 fix for the carb on my KLR's. I am not a particularly good wrench, but I would recommend that you take a look at the carb while you have everything off. Just generally checking of the float bowl and the diaphragm. And the $.22 fix (which cost me $.47, inflation) is really simple, though maybe unnecessary at higher altitudes.
Thanks! Glad everyone is enjoying this.

I'm not sure I'm familiar with the $.22 fix for the carb. Can someone enlighten me?


Update: I got all of the parts in from Eagle Mike except for the refreshed head. Damn, that 688 piston looks good. Next step is to drop the cylinder jug off at the machine shop and get it bored and honed.
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:11 PM   #58
Kevan Garrett
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$.22 mod

Try here:

http://www.klr650.net/forums/showthread.php?t=41112

Or just look around the klr650.net site.

Cheers

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Old 01-25-2013, 01:11 PM   #59
rectangular OP
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Quick question for anyone who has been following my thread: what oil would anyone recommend for my engine break in? I've used rotella 30W for car engines, but I'm unsure about motorcycles. I'm not looking to start a flame war, just asking for some suggestions :)
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Old 01-26-2013, 01:05 PM   #60
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Well... shat... that's a problem.

Well... ran into a bit of a snag today. I got the cylinder back from the machine shop, got the new piston and cylinder installed. I also got the new doohickey installed as well with the torsion spring. Unfortunately when I was torquing down the rotor bolt for the stator and starter gear, the cam chain got lodged between the block and the large starter gear.

It looks like as I was torquing down the rotor, the chain got slack and pinched between the block and the rotor.

It broke off a bit of the block. It looks like it's only purpose is to hold the front cam chain guide. It didn't chip off terribly deep and it still holds the cam chain guide.









There was also some marking on the back of the rotor and it bent the sort of toothed bit on the back of the rotor.



I'm curious what everyone thinks the best course of action is to do at this point. A bit of a bummer after a solid day of successful wrenching prior.

I don't really think replacing the block is much of an option. Nor do I think it's all that necessary. To buy a new starter rotor from the dealer is $238. On ebay they go for around $70. I'm not sure what this bit on the back of the starter rotor gear is for. Kawasaki put it there for a reason. Is this something that can be flattened, smoothed down and reused?

The cam chain seems to be unscathed. The cast aluminum block definitely lost the battle between these items.
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