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Old 01-13-2013, 08:05 PM   #16
KayAitch OP
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I guess I'll get myself some new gaskets and lop the little jug off again and take a look :(

Unless, of course, after this exhaust clean up it is cured. About to head to an exhaust place now. I don't have the angle grinder and welder to muck around with these messy spot welds on the baffle, one of which is about 1 inch x 1 inch. Whoever owned it obviously didn't understand the importance of being able to clean out the pipe every now and then on these smokers.
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Old 01-19-2013, 12:18 AM   #17
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Update:

So I talked to my mechanic and he seemed flummoxed as to what it could be and what to do next. I've almost resigned myself to a bottom end leak once it gets nice and hot (30 minutes or so) but until I find a way to test that and until I get my top end gaskets so I can check the piston ring end gap, I figured I'd check some other things.

I went and talked to the guys that did the rebore for a second opinion. He came back at me with some basic things: dirty fuel, check air filter, go RICH one notch on the needle, and dig into the left hand side of the engine and look for leaks/weeping/anything like that. He said if it's leaking on the otherside I'd know, (blowing smoke, fouling plugs, etc)

So this is far as I got today:

The filter looks fine to me. It's one of those paper ones. It seems clean, though it felt a little grimey/oily, is that normal?

I took apart the carb and float bowl to see how clean it was. There was a tiny bit of matter in the bowl but the fuel was otherwise clean. Here it is sans fuel. Thoughts?




Next stop was going richer one notch on the needle. I struggled to get this apart with any grace since I've never been into the carby before. Nevertheless it is apart, VERY apart.



I did find that the needle was already on the second to bottom clip which meant going richer will put me on the bottom? What does this mean? Adjustments across the carb?

Also, this half circle washer thingy on the left. What is it? It kind of popped out on me and I can't figure exactly how and where it goes. From what I witnessed it was on top of the slide below or above the bottom of the spring? Any advice on that one.



This is my first carb experience. Feeling a little

KayAitch screwed with this post 01-19-2013 at 04:54 AM
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Old 01-19-2013, 06:46 PM   #18
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1. This carb needs a good hot dip and cleaning

2. The needle should be in about the middle pos....groove 3.

3. The needle is full rich right now. Remember this ditty about THE NEEDLE,'raise to richen, lower to lean".

4. I suspect you have a bad mag side crank seal. Did the crank play get checked also. A bad crank bearing will take out a seal right away. The engine should be pressure tested at the intake to see that it is holding pressure.
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Old 01-19-2013, 06:50 PM   #19
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Oh, ....and that little clip with a lip goes between the needle clip and the spring. It holds the needle down by pressing the little c-clip and is pressed on by the spring. It usually only fits one side up properly.
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Old 01-21-2013, 03:54 AM   #20
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Thanks heaps buls4evr for following along and helping out. I think'll get there eventually. I owe you at least . There should be a Paypal button for good advice. I'd buy you a pint

1. I've been trying to track down decent carb cleaner for soaking the whole carb in. Seems no one wants to dispose of it so no one wants to sell it. I have some carb clean in a spray can and I've heard good things about boiling the carb in either water, or believe it or not, lemon juice? Other ideas the auto parts guy presented to me was any kind of parts cleaning solvent. A decent drum of this stuff is $ though. Shall I carb clean from the can, spray with compressed air, give it a good boil, and see what happens?

2. That's the needle after I moved it one step richer immediately after taking it apart. I understand this is not desirable so I'm going to move it back to second to bottom (groove 4), the position it was in before I pulled apart the carb. Since this is getting down the needle, what adjustments can I make to bring it back middle? If anything, looking at the spark plug, I could go leaner from the current posi. Back to number 3. I imagine going leaner won't help me with my getting hot problem though?

3. Thanks for the ditty. I think I have my head wrapped around the relative confusion of needle adjustment now.

4. When you say crank play, does this include con rod play? When I had the top end off I did note some movement in the con rod (something i noticed because it was my first time in ANY engine) but it was only vertically and only a small amount. There was no lateral play. I've heard this is normal. Once I clean this carb properly and reinstall it, then pop on the new pipe, I'm going to try and construct a tester or find some guys to help. I'm also going to see how far I can get into the mag side for a visual look about.

Cheers for the info on the clip with the lip. I was confused because it seemed to come loose from nowhere but it makes sense it was the clip holding it there. So, clip with the lip goes on top of needle clip with spring above. Makes sense.


Quote:
Originally Posted by buls4evr View Post
1. This carb needs a good hot dip and cleaning

2. The needle should be in about the middle pos....groove 3.

3. The needle is full rich right now. Remember this ditty about THE NEEDLE,'raise to richen, lower to lean".

4. I suspect you have a bad mag side crank seal. Did the crank play get checked also. A bad crank bearing will take out a seal right away. The engine should be pressure tested at the intake to see that it is holding pressure.

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Old 01-21-2013, 04:28 AM   #21
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Did I miss the part where you check the look of the spark plug? What color, wet or dry? It sounds like a crank seal, is the trans oil level dropping at all? If the exhaust is that clogged it could be because of a crank seal or using incorrect oil for a period of time. What kind of oil are you putting in the injector tank? Describe what the motor is doing when it feels as though it is "seizing". Nice looking 100, hope you get her going.
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Old 01-21-2013, 05:11 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lost on Row 1 View Post
Did I miss the part where you check the look of the spark plug? What color, wet or dry? It sounds like a crank seal, is the trans oil level dropping at all? If the exhaust is that clogged it could be because of a crank seal or using incorrect oil for a period of time. What kind of oil are you putting in the injector tank? Describe what the motor is doing when it feels as though it is "seizing". Nice looking 100, hope you get her going.
Hi there. I perhaps forgot to mention the spark plug. I can't call it a true 'plug chop' but I've checked the plug after riding a couple of times and I'm getting a very dark almost black on the top 2 or so thread rows, and dark dark brown (which I thought was rich) on both electrode and insulator. Wet on threads, dry on sparky bits.

While de-coking the exhaust a while back I also emptied the trans oil only to find there was too much in there. This made made me think this was adding to the overheating by the engine lugging. I emptied it and measure 750ml or so. The manual says it should be 600ml and I found when replacing the oil it spilled out the oil level hole at 550ml. I thought this, along with the exhaust decoking, that it might solve it. It didn't. :( As far as I can tell the trans oil level is stable. I think the pipe was partially clogged, but I'm told clogged up baffles on 2 strokes were more common on the old bikes with the old oil. Performance is much better now post caustic soda and coat hanger attack.

I am running Castrol Activ 2T, which I bought because it was readily available and was in the tank when I did the top end so I figured I'd stick with it. It's mineral and ok for injector systems. I'd like to find something else though.

The feeling is this: the bike flies for 25-30 minutes, less if the weather is hot, more if it is cool. I think I can feel a small loss in power in acceleration, but only very slight, and then while accelerating I will feel a jolt or what feels like a stutter in the engine. A jerk. Then I might feel a couple or more in a row, along with loss in power and struggle accelerating. Before I did the top end I figured this was a seize but I used to ride it til it stopped. Now, I just shut it off before it shuts itself off
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Old 01-21-2013, 05:20 AM   #23
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My experience with a seize is either an abrupt stop of the piston or a tightening up of the motor. If you know someone with a 2 stroke pressure tester, it would be worth the time. Are you getting any extra spooge out of the exhaust or at the headpipe? After it cuts of what do you have to do to get it running again? You could try this, if you haven't already, take a new plug with you and replace it when the bike shuts off. If it starts right up you know something is causing your plug to foul. If it doesn't start right up then the whole crank seal leak may be the wrong way to go. It really depends on the restart circumstances.
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Old 01-21-2013, 05:30 AM   #24
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When you say abrupt stop do you mean lock up? In the past the bike has simply stopped running, but the lead up to this is the stuttering/and staggering, what seems like misfiring or something. It goes from smooth to rough in acceleration, and this is usually the precursor to the inevitable engine shut off.

Is a tightening up of the motor the feeling of jerking as opposed to smoothness?

I could find someone to compression test it. I aim to do compression and bottom end testing asap.

In terms of spooge, there is only ever one drip or two hanging from the end of the pipe.

Now that I shut it off before it stalls I find it kick starts immediately after stopping. The bike turns over almost first time every time, hot or cold. Post top end rebuild I haven't let it get to the point during a ride of it stalling/shutting, so I can't say for sure how it starts after that.

What are the chances of this problem being electrical? As far as I know it has all the original ignition parts.
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Old 01-21-2013, 06:57 AM   #25
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Typically a seize will not turn over right away or at all. So it acts up, stuttering and stalls, and then starts right up? How does it run afterward? Absolutely you could have a coil heating up and failing, but normally the coil must cool before it sparks again. You have points on that bike? If so, how about the condenser? My experience with seizures is the piston sticks in the bore, suddenly. There have been times when a motor has tightened up and seized, It feels like someone is dragging you backward as you try to accelerate, You can tell by both the feel and sound that the motor is seizing. It doesn't sound like what you are describing to me. Definitely check electrical, if it has a condenser replace it unless it's new. It sounds like the plug is fouling but if that where the case it most likely would not restart so easily or at all. Did you float assembly have any liquid in them? If they are leaking it could effect the float level and richen it up, Just throwing stuff out there, hope something helps.
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Old 01-21-2013, 07:03 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KayAitch View Post

I could find someone to compression test it. I aim to do compression and bottom end testing asap.

.
Bottom pressure test will all but eliminate the crank seal. Compression test won't hurt but if it starts up easily and has a good feel in the kicker it most likely is OK.
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Old 01-21-2013, 07:04 AM   #27
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Breakthrough?

Hang tight here folks, I feel like I MIGHT have found it.

I just found this thread from a Kawasaki singles forum.
http://kawasakikhregister.myfastforu...about2595.html

Now, look at my carb. It is the same hole as this photo, yes? The thread states it as a very common fault, and for a bike that "will not run when hot" and "air gets into the cylinder". This could be the leak I've been looking for?



*I'm sorry I bit my nails. It's the Kawasaki's fault.
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Old 01-21-2013, 07:43 AM   #28
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1. You should have side to side play (horizontal), but none vertical on the rod. No up/down play if you hold down on the crank with your other hand. You should have NO crank play vertically or horizontally.

2. An engine can partially seize and not lock all the way up solid if you catch it fast enough. Early Bultaco Astro owners know this feeling well. You get pretty sensitive to how this feels....sort of like running with a back brake on. Is that your feel?

3. That choke issue could introduce air into the mixture and will increase with venturi effect considering where it is. Question is, can you get another one?

4. If the exhaust were your only problem then the bike would run badly hot or cold.

5. The problem is not the needle. Put in pos 3. Check all your jet #s to make sure they are to factory spec. That bike ran great in 1965 and probably with those jets. Are they clean? Can you see daylight through them?They tell you not to do this but flip a wire brush over and run the jets through with a bristle of the brush. You may get crud out of them.

6. The top end removal is the only way to tell if it is seizing. Light emery cloth on any scuff marks, re-oil the bore. Check ring end gap or re-ring and put it back together again.
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Old 01-21-2013, 08:31 AM   #29
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1. OK, had my wires crossed on that one for sure. It was months ago now. The play was only side to side (less than 1mm or so at top of the rod, if I recall) on the rod. I remember reading widely about side to side play at the time and being relieved that it was the case with my con rod.

2. It doesn't feel like a back brake dragging when it does it. But maybe a back brake stomped on at random moments? Does that make sense? More of shuddering and hesitation through the rev range, gradually getting worse.

3. The guys on that forum say a washer and liquid metal would do the trick to block that hole. Apparently originally it would have had a plug in it as per construction but it seems maybe over time it comes loose. I'm going to do this ASAP because all other things considered, and like I've said, it runs pretty great until this problem happens.

4. Roger that. I'll put that in the brain bank. Thanks Buls!

5. It was a tad rich on 4 so I'll put it on 3. I can see daylight through both the jets. No apparent obstructions there. Will spray some carb cleaner around and blow it out anyway, along with the float bowl. Do I need to remove floats for cleaning? I'll start with chemicals and air. All else fails, wire it is!

6. I will see how it runs after this carb fix and take it from there. If the problem persists I will take the head off and have a look down the bore. If I see scuff marks then it is rings off to check ring end gap. If that's not it I will have a mental breakdown. Nah, I'll go bottom end then. Though I think this might be close with this carb problem. Perhaps even if this carb thing works I will look down the barrel just to get certainty.

I can't thank you guys enough so far. Update to come in the next few days! I've been here before and I can say I'm optimistic but incredibly cautious too.



Quote:
Originally Posted by buls4evr View Post
1. You should have side to side play (horizontal), but none vertical on the rod. No up/down play if you hold down on the crank with your other hand. You should have NO crank play vertically or horizontally.

2. An engine can partially seize and not lock all the way up solid if you catch it fast enough. Early Bultaco Astro owners know this feeling well. You get pretty sensitive to how this feels....sort of like running with a back brake on. Is that your feel?

3. That choke issue could introduce air into the mixture and will increase with venturi effect considering where it is. Question is, can you get another one?

4. If the exhaust were your only problem then the bike would run badly hot or cold.

5. The problem is not the needle. Put in pos 3. Check all your jet #s to make sure they are to factory spec. That bike ran great in 1965 and probably with those jets. Are they clean? Can you see daylight through them?They tell you not to do this but flip a wire brush over and run the jets through with a bristle of the brush. You may get crud out of them.

6. The top end removal is the only way to tell if it is seizing. Light emery cloth on any scuff marks, re-oil the bore. Check ring end gap or re-ring and put it back together again.
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Old 01-21-2013, 08:40 AM   #30
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My bike kicks up immediately. However, it will start right up but continue the sluggish/hiccup symptons until cool. If I let it cool it will run great again until it gets, presumably, hot again.

Points as far as I know, haven't been in that side very much at all.

I'd describe the symptoms as loss of a bit of power and then hiccups. One here and there or a couple in a row.

The floats themselves or the bowl? The bowl had gas in it but the floats seemed without gas. I presume, being floats, they aren't to have gas in them.

Any ideas will help. Thanks. It's all for the experience and knowledge.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Lost on Row 1 View Post
Typically a seize will not turn over right away or at all. So it acts up, stuttering and stalls, and then starts right up? How does it run afterward? Absolutely you could have a coil heating up and failing, but normally the coil must cool before it sparks again. You have points on that bike? If so, how about the condenser? My experience with seizures is the piston sticks in the bore, suddenly. There have been times when a motor has tightened up and seized, It feels like someone is dragging you backward as you try to accelerate, You can tell by both the feel and sound that the motor is seizing. It doesn't sound like what you are describing to me. Definitely check electrical, if it has a condenser replace it unless it's new. It sounds like the plug is fouling but if that where the case it most likely would not restart so easily or at all. Did you float assembly have any liquid in them? If they are leaking it could effect the float level and richen it up, Just throwing stuff out there, hope something helps.
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