2004 1150gsa Belt replacement question

[mpillis]

Bike has 37k miles. Pulled cover and belt looks fine. Would rather replace it now before problems. I have searched and found lot's of stuff on replacing belt on 1200 GS's but not on 1150. Can someone direct me to a video or procedure with pics on how to replace the alternator belt. Do I need to remove the tank? Of course the tank is full!
Thanks for any and all help!!!

[1reddawg]

You do NOT Have to remove the gas tank.Its pretty straight forward once you get the cover off what i remember.Its been like 60,000 miles ago.

Change Alternator Belt

Tools Parts
T-handle hex – 4mm alternator belt
socket – 13mm
ratchet
wrench – 13mm
torque wrench
1. Remove the four bolts holding the black plastic alternator belt cover at the front
of the engine, 4mm T-handle hex.
2. Remove the cover by sliding it straight down.
3. Loosen the 2 nuts and 1 bolt, 13mm, that hold the alternator – one is on top
and one is on each side, thus allowing the alternator to pivot down.
4. Remove the old belt.
5. Install the new belt being sure it is properly seated.
6. BMW calls for a tensioning torque of 5.9 ft.lb. (8 Nm) on the adjuster bolt on
the left side of the bike. You have to get at this bolt from the alternator side and
you may have to lift the tank. Alternatively, you can pry the alternator up with a
large screwdriver to tension the belt.
7. Once the belt is under proper tension, tighten the 2 nuts and 1 bolt, 13mm, to
15 ft.lb. (20 Nm).

8. Check the belt for proper tension (see above) and proper seating alignment.

[ElMartillo]

Originally Posted by mpillis

Can someone direct me to a video or procedure with pics on how to replace the alternator belt. Do I need to remove the tank?

No need to remove tank.

I performed this procedure recently, followed these instructions compiled by Carl Kulow:

http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom...aintenance.pdf

If the above link does not work, go to the bottom of this page, click on "Hall of Wisdom", find "Oilhead Maintenance".

This PDF file contains great information and photos of multiple maintanence procedures.

Cheers

[mpillis]

Ok got the old belt off. Bought a new belt from Beemerboneyard and the numbers look different. The old belt was a #592 and new belt is 611 from a manufacturer Continental Contitech. So far unable to get new belt on. Actually when I was turning the crankshaft and getting part of belt on it felt like the engine raised up. felt this twice. Things that make you go hmmmmmm? Gonna research numbers but any help getting that damn belt back on is appreciated.

[ElMartillo]

Originally Posted by mpillis

Ok got the old belt off. Bought a new belt from Beemerboneyard and the numbers look different. The old belt was a #592 and new belt is 611 from a manufacturer Continental Contitech. So far unable to get new belt on. Actually when I was turning the crankshaft and getting part of belt on it felt like the engine raised up. felt this twice. Things that make you go hmmmmmm? Gonna research numbers but any help getting that damn belt back on is appreciated.

Sounds like you have an incorrect replacement part. If the numbers are different, the parts are different.

I believe there are different sized belts depending on options such as ABS. The local dealer originally gave me the wrong sized belt too. You'd think they would know enough to ask...

At least you can put the old belt back on and ride until you get the correct part.

Unlikely you're feeling the engine lift, unless the bike is rocking on the center stand.

Cheers

[def]

Originally Posted by mpillis

Ok got the old belt off. Bought a new belt from Beemerboneyard and the numbers look different. The old belt was a #592 and new belt is 611 from a manufacturer Continental Contitech. So far unable to get new belt on. Actually when I was turning the crankshaft and getting part of belt on it felt like the engine raised up. felt this twice. Things that make you go hmmmmmm? Gonna research numbers but any help getting that damn belt back on is appreciated.

The numbers on the belt denote the belt length. I would call BBY and read the numbers off the old belt and ask what they sent you.

Continental is a German company that makes tires, hoses, belts and other similar automotive parts (sort of the German equivalent of Goodyear) and likely the OE supplier of the factory installed belt.

As for installation, others will chime in...I am of no help....sorry.

[jsb223]

didn't they change belt specs during the 2004 run?

[mouthfulloflake]

yeah I think the original you had was 592mm long, the replacement you got is 611.

My 1995GS runs a 611mm belt.

the 611mm belt should easily slip on in place of the shorter belt?
if anything, the problem will be that there is not enough adjustment in the alternator moving "up" to tighten it enough.

you did loosen the bolts for the alternator and let it drop down to remove the old belt right?

[Steptoe]

Originally Posted by mpillis

Ok got the old belt off. Bought a new belt from Beemerboneyard and the numbers look different. The old belt was a #592 and new belt is 611 from a manufacturer Continental Contitech. So far unable to get new belt on. Actually when I was turning the crankshaft and getting part of belt on it felt like the engine raised up. felt this twice. Things that make you go hmmmmmm? Gonna research numbers but any help getting that damn belt back on is appreciated.

You've an 1150. You can use the 592 belt or the 611. They both fit and work the same.
In fact the 611 belt is better to use on an 1150 ADV, due to the alternator being higher when tensioned allowing the link fuel line to be pulled through under the tank without any problems.
Using the 592 belt means the alternator is lower, and a lot of times you can't pull the link pipe through.
Which means if you ever need to remove the fuel tank you have to remove the alternator belt as well.

Here's a "how to", it's been posted before. The pictures are of an 1100, but the 1150 is the same procedure but easier, as you don't have to remove the oil pipe shown in the pictures.


Alternator belt change
The pictures are taken with the fuel tank removed for better viewing and pictures, but you can do the job with the tank in situ .
If you have crash bars fitted,and they have the bar running across the front of the engine, you have to remove the bar to get the plastic cover off.
To remove the plastic alternator cover, undo the four bolts (4mm allen head), be careful and use a good fitting tool. There are two each side, and on the right hand side is an oil pipe ( just ignore it)


Slide the cover down, and to the right. And it’ll come out from the bottom


The cover


You need to undo the three 13mm hex head bolts/nuts.
One each side, and one at the top.



. I use a 13mm ring spanner

On 1100 models, you have an oil breather pipe. Held in place with a 19mm hex bolt at the top, and a allen bolt at the bottom ( 6mm head)
Here’s the pipe

Undo the bolts, no oil will come out, and remove the pipe. 1150 models don’t have this pipe.



Squeeze the belt together, and the alternator will drop down, allowing you to remove the belt.
Some servo bikes have a plastic cover over the alternator pulley, this can get in the way, stopping the belt from coming off. Just pull the cover off.
Servo alternator

Put the new belt on , and tension it. The workshop manual shows the rear of the L/H side bolt being turned with a torque wrench. This raises the alternator, so you can tension the belt at the correct torque. Read the manual if you want to do it this way. And you must remove the tank to get at the rear of the bolt
Where the bolt is located if adjusting the belt by the book.

I raise the alternator with a small pry bar, but I know what tension the belt has to be, so use the official method of tensioning if you’ve never fitted a belt before.
If using the bar under the alternator method, be careful of the ignition wire running underneath the alternator. If you trap this, you’ll sever the wires and the bike won’t start.
Putting it all back is the reversal of the above .

[mpillis]

Thanks for all the help guys. I did call Beemerboneyard and gave him my vin and he told me it is the correct belt. Well, I had a DUH moment. Note to self and others: DO NOT try and install a belt that has been sitting in the garage when the temperature is 6 degrees outside. Warmed it up good with a hair dryer and it went on like butter.
Again thanks guys.

[everycredit]

Wow, the guys are very generous today!

If I had made the post, they would have referred me to the Hall of Wisdom.

Then read the PDF under Oilhead Maintenance.

Maybe you're prettier than I am. Actually, you probably are.

EDIT: I'm being sarcastic; I am happy that mission was accomplished!

[holckster]

Originally Posted by jsb223

didn't they change belt specs during the 2004 run?

YES
Check build date. I think June 03 and earlier require longer belt.

I tried to use the short belt and was unable then to remove or replace the fuel crossover line.
Not enought clearance between block and alternator.
My 04 has 0503 (May 03) build date on forks.

[def]

Originally Posted by everycredit

Wow, the guys are very generous today!

If I had made the post, they would have referred me to the Hall of Wisdom.

Then read the PDF under Oilhead Maintenance.

Maybe you're prettier than I am. Actually, you probably are.

EDIT: I'm being sarcastic; I am happy that mission was accomplished!

You guys in Washington state are lucky...you get to smoke all the salmon and marijuana you want.

[everycredit]

Originally Posted by def

You guys in Washington state are lucky...you get to smoke all the salmon and marijuana you want.

I would recommend not doing that around the same time.

Unfortunately, I have a job that falls under federal law. No dope for me.

But I can smoke all the salmon I want.

[Anorak]

Some 2004 models have a freewheel in the alternator pulley. The pulley has a black plastic cap in the middle. Here, read this.