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Old 01-20-2013, 08:51 PM   #17626
bmwpowere36m3
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Location: Shelton, CT
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Can you guys give me opinion on a couple of DRZ400S I'm interested in buying (New England area). Both DRZs were fairly stock.

2000 DRZ 8k miles asking $2750
Mods:
  • Yosh Muffler
  • Owner says PO jetted the bike
  • Skid Plate
  • Engine Side Cover Protection
  • Bark Busters

Bike appeared taken care of, though was a little dirty. Bike was cold when I arrived and hadn't been ridden in a couple months. It started up after a few tries. On the ride the bike sputtered and stumbled a lot at low RPMs and 1/4 to 1/2 throttle opening (choke didn't improve it much). At higher rpm it pulled strong and cleared up. Owner said that the bike really needs to warm up, I rode it, he rode and then I rode it again (total of maybe 20 min). It was better on my last ride, but still very noticeable. The Yoshimura muffler only had the spark arrestor... holy hell was it loud and popping on decel was tremendous

2002 DRZ 8k miles asking $3200 (said paid $2700 a couple of years ago for it, minus the muffler and jet kit)
Mods:
  • FMF Q4 Muffler
  • Dyno Jet Stage 1
  • 3x3 airbox mod
  • Skid Plate
  • Engine Side Cover Protection
  • Bark Busters

Bike appeared taken care of, was also a little dirty, new chain was loose and crusty (NOT rusty) with accumulated grime mixed with lube, missing fork boots. Bike was warm when I arrived as we met in a parking lot. Bike started right up. On the ride the bike ran well and again the exhaust was popping a bit on decel. There was a noticeable chatter felt through the bars when using the front brake, (steering stem bearings/adjustment, rotor deposits/pads).

2000 DRZ 16k miles asking $2200
Haven't seen it in person, listed on here with a TON of mods, appears to be well taken care of.
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Old 01-20-2013, 09:38 PM   #17627
markjenn
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Location: Swellvue, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwpowere36m3 View Post
Can you guys give me opinion on a couple of DRZ400S I'm interested in buying (New England area).
I'd pass on the all of them. I'm not an expert, but prices seem borderline outrageous for early model, ratty bikes with so many problems being sold in the dead of winter in New England. For this money, clean, later-model bikes should turn up.

- Mark
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Old 01-20-2013, 11:32 PM   #17628
Jetpack
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Any love for a motard?



Not sure what's worse, the seat or the front tyre on dirt.
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Old 01-21-2013, 06:48 AM   #17629
bmwpowere36m3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markjenn View Post
I'd pass on the all of them. I'm not an expert, but prices seem borderline outrageous for early model, ratty bikes with so many problems being sold in the dead of winter in New England. For this money, clean, later-model bikes should turn up.

- Mark

That's how I felt for what they were asking for the two I saw, but looking around craigslist... people in New England right now are asking a lot (I think) for these bikes. It’s hard to gauge what they are really going for, since they can ask whatever they want. I don't know how reliable NADA or KBB are for these bikes?
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Old 01-21-2013, 12:12 PM   #17630
focallength
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[/IMG]

Anyone know where these go? Theyre not broken off of anything, i swear thry fell out of the head when i turned it upside down. I cant find their home, theyre not on any schematic either...

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Old 01-21-2013, 12:16 PM   #17631
markjenn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwpowere36m3 View Post
I don't know how reliable NADA or KBB are for these bikes?
They tend low, especially for clean/older bikes. But the prices you've been quoted aren't even in the ballpark. Again, I'm no expert, but I would think $3K should net a clean/nice-running/relatively-stock 2005 or later.

- Mark
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Old 01-21-2013, 01:26 PM   #17632
Achtung
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Location: Waltham MA! aka Red Sox Nation
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwpowere36m3 View Post
Can you guys give me opinion on a couple of DRZ400S I'm interested in buying (New England area). Both DRZs were fairly stock.

2000 DRZ 8k miles asking $2750
Mods:
  • Yosh Muffler
  • Owner says PO jetted the bike
  • Skid Plate
  • Engine Side Cover Protection
  • Bark Busters

Bike appeared taken care of, though was a little dirty. Bike was cold when I arrived and hadn't been ridden in a couple months. It started up after a few tries. On the ride the bike sputtered and stumbled a lot at low RPMs and 1/4 to 1/2 throttle opening (choke didn't improve it much). At higher rpm it pulled strong and cleared up. Owner said that the bike really needs to warm up, I rode it, he rode and then I rode it again (total of maybe 20 min). It was better on my last ride, but still very noticeable. The Yoshimura muffler only had the spark arrestor... holy hell was it loud and popping on decel was tremendous
.
All of those bikes are too expensive but if you can buy this one for $2000 thats not too bad. It needs a carb clean and a baffle insert for the pipe.
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Old 01-21-2013, 01:34 PM   #17633
bonekrusher
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Originally Posted by focallength View Post

Anyone know where these go? Theyre not broken off of anything, i swear thry fell out of the head when i turned it upside down. I cant find their home, theyre not on any schematic either...
Those are the pins from the neutral indicator. Kind of by the bottom of the motor on the left hand side (if you're sitting on the bike).

I'm trying to find a micro fiche for you but am not having any luck - I can take a picture of where they need to go when I get home if you need it.

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Old 01-21-2013, 01:43 PM   #17634
focallength
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So, they go inside the case? I found them when I took the head off...well before I split the case, or removed the side covers even.
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Old 01-21-2013, 01:48 PM   #17635
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Originally Posted by focallength View Post
So, they go inside the case? I found them when I took the head off...well before I split the case, or removed the side covers even.
Found an engine pic.

Check here: http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ps9b7ac008.jpg

Circle indicates the switch that those pins go underneath. :)


They are magnetic - so you would have pulled that switch cover off a while ago and they wouldn't come out. You have to take a magnet to the top of them to get them to come out normally - otherwise they just sit there till you move the engine upside down or something and they fall out. Pesky little buggers.

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Old 01-21-2013, 01:54 PM   #17636
focallength
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bonekrusher View Post
Found an engine pic.


Check here: http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ps9b7ac008.jpg

Circle indicates the switch that those pins go underneath. :)
I know what your talking about, I reintalled that already,, I didnt see anything indicating those pins go there, ill check the schematic thanks...

Any idea what schematic theyre under?
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Old 01-21-2013, 02:03 PM   #17637
bonekrusher
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Originally Posted by focallength View Post
I know what your talking about, I reintalled that already,, I didnt see anything indicating those pins go there, ill check the schematic thanks...
There isn't anything indicating where they go to my knowledge - just two holes for them to slip into.

The clymer manual mentions them in the "engine removal" section if I remember correctly. I can't find them in a micro fiche to save my life though. Good luck

I'll throw up a pic of how they fit when I get home if you need. Just let me know.

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Old 01-21-2013, 02:06 PM   #17638
focallength
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Originally Posted by bonekrusher View Post
There isn't anything indicating where they go to my knowledge - just two holes for them to slip into.

The clymer manual mentions them in the "engine removal" section if I remember correctly. I can't find them in a micro fiche to save my life though. Good luck
Ok, ill pull it off when I get home, any idea which direction they go, im guessing round nose side in, towards the engine.
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Old 01-21-2013, 02:11 PM   #17639
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Ok, ill pull it off when I get home, any idea which direction they go, im guessing round nose side in, towards the engine.
The smaller part goes toward the engine - the round top is the contact for the cap that goes on top.
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Old 01-21-2013, 02:40 PM   #17640
focallength
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I dont see a place for them...

Theres only 2 holes for the bolts...
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