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Old 01-21-2013, 06:45 PM   #2416
miles44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRFSoCal View Post
Where is that at?
That's on the 39 by crystal lake :)
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Old 01-21-2013, 07:13 PM   #2417
CRFSoCal
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Originally Posted by miles44 View Post
That's on the 39 by crystal lake :)
I though so. I was up there yesterday. I did about 70miles up there. I went up to crystal lake up hwy 39 then down to the east fork over to Glendora ridge and down glendora mountain road. Where are you located? It would be nice to have more people to go riding with. I am in Glendora
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Old 01-21-2013, 08:45 PM   #2418
NesquikNinja
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Possible break down.

Well, time to head back to the dealership, I think.

Not sure what happened. It was 18 degrees out, I started my CRF, allowed adequate warm up time, shut 'er down, checked oil level and chain slack, and hit the road. Rode 12 miles to my friends house, parked, hung out for about 3-4 hours. Went back out to start it up- around 15 degrees now. All lights are on, bike makes the usual noises, turns over, coughs a little smoke (no more than expected with the weather it seems...?) but wont start. I let the starter turn for a total of 15-20 seconds give or take....

Checked the oil, nada. If I lean it about 20 degrees to the right, a little bit shows up in the window. I have 572 miles, and was taking it in for the valve check tomorrow, with plans of doing all the other 600 mile checkups on my own.

Any ideas? I never checked my oil cold....is it normal to not show up in the window?
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Old 01-21-2013, 09:30 PM   #2419
cat
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Yes - or at least it is normal on the Pulsar 180. I think it is unrelated to your starting problem.
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Old 01-21-2013, 09:59 PM   #2420
cat
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Kronos,...slightly more than a kg - good. i thought there was nothing else, after the exhaust, that could be reduced much. I will take off the indicators (it is not likely, here, that the police notice,) but i need the 60/55W headlight. I had thought of adding auxiliary LED lights, but then i realised that if i do that, and the ZETA bash plate, and a rack, the best i could do is try to keep it from becoming more than the original weight. :-s

Quote:
Originally Posted by Krono View Post
Removed the spark plug too, because i was unable to unscrew the crankshaft hole cap
Big fender washer. File the sharp side smooth.
I have heard that the small spark plugs break easily, so i want to take mine out and put Loctite Anti-seize (the silver/aluminium type).

Quote:
Originally Posted by Harcomo View Post
I seem to have the same problem as you are having with the bars being too low. For some reason, I'm just not sold on the bar riser thing. To me, they seem like an add on that doesn't belong...
Yes, me too. Just looks wrong. I've decided on the Zeta CX (7/8"), MX124, i think it is - pretty much the same as the OEM, just slightly less "sweep". I'm just waiting for Wheeling Cycle to get stock of the Zeta front sprocket cover so i can order them together.

Check the Zeta Racing website
http://www.zeta-racing.com/handlebar/cx_bar/index.html\
...there is a HANDLEBAR SIMULATOR that lets you select the CRF250L OEM handlebar and then one of the Zeta bars, and shows you graphically, beautifully, with all the measurements, what the differences are.
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cat screwed with this post 01-21-2013 at 10:04 PM
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Old 01-21-2013, 10:16 PM   #2421
cat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob80 View Post
Service Manual (Helms) :

Recommended Fork Oil
: Pro Honda Suspension Fluid SS-8 (10W) or equivalent

Fluid level
Right-122mm (4.8 in)
Left- 38mm (1.5in)

Fluid capacity
Right- 658 +/- 2.5cm3
(22.3 +/-0.08 US oz,23.2 +/-0.09 Imp oz)

Left- 683 +/-2.5cm3
(23.1 +/-0.08 US oz,24.0 +/-0.09 Imp oz)

If this is any help to ya, I believe that Helms is the publisher for the Honda manuals...same thing, so I've read
Thanks! :)

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Originally Posted by NJ-Brett View Post
Maybe if the right amount is in there to start with.
I changed the oil in my TU250 forks, I drained about 365cc's out of each and refilled with thicker oil.
When I went back to thinner oil, I read the shop manual, 2.8 inches from the top, over 500cc's of oil!!!!
Yes, can't trust them, that's why i want to do it as soon as i can, and get good fork oil in them.
Same with the axles, they tend to not grease them properly in assembly, and you end up with corroded and stuck axles.
I just need to check whether the lift stand i have is low enough for this bike. (And get the time to do everything.)
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Old 01-21-2013, 11:48 PM   #2422
Krono
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry Ferguson View Post
I have found that if you use a flat washer for a 1/2" bolt, (at least that's the size that works on my XT 550, YMMV) or any size that fits snugly in the slot, you can clamp it in a vise grip and easily turn it out. Plus, it won't "cam out", raising burrs on the screw. Another tool they could cram into the toolkit for this bike. Note in my sig, I have the original version of this bike. 40 years on and only 3 more HP and 6 fewer pounds. I would still like to have one though.
Thanks for the tip

I only tried holding a coin with a grip, but it quickly bent so i gave up. Since i had the "Finn's addition" as an alternate i didnt dig that further.

Will be ok for next time

L
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Old 01-22-2013, 12:05 AM   #2423
Krono
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cat View Post
Kronos,...slightly more than a kg - good. i thought there was nothing else, after the exhaust, that could be reduced much. I will take off the indicators (it is not likely, here, that the police notice,) but i need the 60/55W headlight. I had thought of adding auxiliary LED lights, but then i realised that if i do that, and the ZETA bash plate, and a rack, the best i could do is try to keep it from becoming more than the original weight. :-s


Big fender washer. File the sharp side smooth.
....
About weight reduction, you can also trim the helmet lock

I also got big gain with lithium battery
http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....postcount=1950

The DRC taillight is also muck lighter than stock.

And a noticeable gain when swapped rear sprocket for an aluminium 42t from CRFsOnly (stock 645gr, alu 262gr)

L
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Old 01-22-2013, 01:26 AM   #2424
cat
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Yes, you know how it is with weight reduction - "diminishing returns" - more expensive for smaller reductions. :)

Yes, helmet lock will come off.

Yes, i have been spending so much time investigating about the sprocket. Eventually found out that XR650L is right. (And various old XR250, same.) I will probably go with Renthal or PBI alloy, never mind the wear, i will see later if it is a problem for me)...even if i add weight with a rack.

The battery,..yes, i was meaning to speak to you about that.
I have some A123 cells (ex-drill pack) that i bought from someone on cpf forum, around 4 years ago. I think i cannot trust them now, so...either i find more, do it like you, or just spend the money for Anti-Gravity battery.
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Old 01-22-2013, 05:29 AM   #2425
Unclejimmy1
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Originally Posted by billfires View Post
I see that Cycleracks has a back rack for our bikes but the photo shows it mounted on a CRF230L. Has anyone ordered the rack for the CRF250L and do you have a photo of it mounted? Thanks, Bill C
Cycle racks makes a great rack for the LRP...it's is pricy but serves me well. I have had two of their racks and they are well engineered and very easily installed.....No pics ,,I just ride,,,,,uncle jimmy
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Old 01-22-2013, 05:57 AM   #2426
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250L lurking in a corner of Spoon Sports headquarters in Japan

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Old 01-22-2013, 06:31 AM   #2427
billfires
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Originally Posted by Unclejimmy1 View Post
Cycle racks makes a great rack for the LRP...it's is pricy but serves me well. I have had two of their racks and they are well engineered and very easily installed.....No pics ,,I just ride,,,,,uncle jimmy
Thanks for your reply. I think the price is good, especially when you consider that is the delivered price. Bill C
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Old 01-22-2013, 07:14 AM   #2428
cat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vspec View Post
250L lurking in a corner of Spoon Sports headquarters in Japan
^^What comes next? The suspense is killing me...

Quote:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spoon_Sports Spoon Sports is a Japanese company formed in 1988. It is an engine tuner and parts manufacturer specializing in cars made by Honda. Their concept is to ...
Are they going to make hot parts for us?
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Old 01-22-2013, 07:23 AM   #2429
cat
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Do the brakes really get better after a while? My rear brake is useless - after about 70km.
So i searched for alternative pads, EBC, Ferodo...as usual, nothing listed, yet. Searching the part numbers turns up only CRF250L - same as with the sprockets. So it seems no use trying to find what parts are used on other Hondas, because they have different part numbers even when they're the same thing.
I did find it listed by Vesrah (front pads only)...
http://catalog.vesrah.co.jp/index_dirt_f.html

CRF250L front OEM 06451-KZZ-901
CRF250L front Vesrah VD-181JL (metal/organic)

CRF250L front Vesrah SD-181 (semi-metallic)
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Old 01-22-2013, 07:57 AM   #2430
gnath9
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I think all your need to improve your brakes are the steel braided lines.
CRF's Only shows them as well as Best DualSport Bikes.

Its been cold here and I really have not had the chance to see if they will break in properly But, I agree they do seem a little weak.
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