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Old 01-20-2013, 10:47 PM   #73081
canoli
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Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Not from round these parts.
Oddometer: 1,628
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Like Jaglite just said... it's too easy for that if you know to just not let air get into the system.

The only tools I used were the vice grips to loosen the bleeder screw, and some old piece of clear tubing/hose I found to guide the dripping fluid down into a oil catch pan (and to keep the fluid off of the rotors).

The rear - bleeds itself. Unbolt the rear brake reservoir to have easy access, loosen the bleed screw until it's dripping out, and just keep adding fresh fluid in the resevior to make sure it doesn't get low enough to suck air in. Toward the end tighten up the bleed screw/bolt/nipple, then top off the fluid and replace the reservoir.

The front - it wouldn't all just gravity-drip out, so I would pump the brake lever with my left hand while loosening and tightening the nipple/bleeder with the right hand to push old fluid out (the brake lever pushed the fluid out, close the bleeder, pump the lever, loosen the bleeder, hold lever down, tighten the bleeder, repeat a bunch of times).

Really only took the minutes that Jaglite says it does.

I used blue loctite on the two front top reservoir screws as an anti-seize since I have had those screws seize on another bike of mine (and since I couldn't find my real anti-seize), and ... ooh yeah ... most imperative - blue loctite on the 10mm bolt that holds the rear reservoir on since it was way loose! It would have fallen out soon.

---

It takes probably 15 minutes, total, from gathering the tools to finishing it up. Pay me ... $50 and I'll do it for ya

That's damned near a 49.5% discount!

-----

for more of an idea of all my special bleeder tools, here is a shot of the rear while it was gravity-bleeding itself:



Here the vice grips that I used on the bleeder are gently holding the tubing down to keep the tubing's end from falling out of the catch-basin. I didn't want brake fluid on my walk way.
Awesome! Thanks Dave and Jaglite. I'll take care of it this weekend.

Canoli
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Old 01-20-2013, 11:22 PM   #73082
Thumper Dan
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: Australia, Northern NSW
Oddometer: 325
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Thumper Dan and Richo ... waste of band width to quote back all the photos from the original post. We've all seen them ... no need to RE-POST them.
Might I suggest you go back and EDIT them out of your posts?
Bad internet manners. Leave the pics OFF on replies ... especially when they are 4- X Large ones.
Cheers!
Well actually, I've seen it more times than not on this forum so didn't bother! Its not really bad Internet manners per se, just more an inconvenience. As such, I've edited.
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Currently riding DR650 (2011)
Mods: Manrack, ebay 48 litre top box, grind header pipe; B&B bash plate; bigger/better tool compartment (pvc pipe) - Screens For Bikes Windscreen, TM40 Pumper Carb, Safari Tank, Seat Concepts, Oxford Heater Grips, Highway Pegs, Wolfman Expidition bags and racks, HDB handguards, Cogent Mojave rear shock, intiminators, GSX muffler/mod
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Old 01-21-2013, 01:15 AM   #73083
Chill
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Joined: Aug 2012
Location: QLD Australia
Oddometer: 305
Clarke Gas tank cap

Does anyone know if there is an issue with the Clarke gas tank caps? Mine's only 4 months old but is cracking across the top through the logo. I did a google search and there seems to be a few letting go but none in the same way mine is. I'm sure they're a good company and I could get a replacement if I hassled them but probably will have the same problem again in a few months time. I'd rather fix the problem once and for all. Are these caps a generic fit? Will any aftermarket MX type cap fit or are they brand specific?
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Old 01-21-2013, 06:58 AM   #73084
tbrduc
Tbrduc
 
Joined: Oct 2011
Oddometer: 2
Old DR?

Hello,
it seems that this thread is about 'newer' DR's.
Mine is a '92 and as you know, different in many ways.
I tried searching for older models but the search engine here wasn't helpful
Where can I find data here on the older models?
It's basically stock, except for a JE piston, tires and airbox-jet modes from Uncle Jesse.

thanks.
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Old 01-21-2013, 07:02 AM   #73085
Emmbeedee
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Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
Oddometer: 9,341
Quote:
Originally Posted by tbrduc View Post
Hello,
it seems that this thread is about 'newer' DR's.
Mine is a '92 and as you know, different in many ways.
I tried searching for older models but the search engine here wasn't helpful
Where can I find data here on the older models?
It's basically stock, except for a JE piston, tires and airbox-jet modes from Uncle Jesse.

thanks.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61568
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Old 01-21-2013, 07:19 AM   #73086
mrprez
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Joined: Apr 2008
Location: Mobile, Al
Oddometer: 1,265
Quote:
Originally Posted by acesandeights View Post
Yes, it's stiff in fact, but doesn't feel like it's riding on the spring. That's how it felt in stock form like it was riding solely on the spring.

I rode again today and went over a little dirt jump the kids around the neighborhood use on their bicycles. I didn't jump it due to all the mud, just up and over a few times as if it were "whoops". My bike follows the terrain really well. Both tires stay planted to the ground. I know what you mean by the pogo because that's what my stock suspension felt like, but a really soft pogo stick. Now it's a stiffly, firmly planted, completely connected to the ground feeling. I'm still not sure whether it's a little too stiff, but I'm almost thinking riding for the last 18+ months with the stock suspension has made me forget what a good set up should feel like. Mine feels like the compression is stiff and the rebound just sticks the bike to the ground...no pogo. Hope that helps. BTW, when are the tires coming again!?
I just checked the sag, it is more than it should be so I'll add in some more preload and see what gives give. I'd like to get this to ride somewhat like my DRZ did.

Tires? Probably sooner than you'd think!!!

How's the coffee?

John
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Old 01-21-2013, 08:57 AM   #73087
acesandeights
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Joined: Jul 2008
Location: So. Oregon
Oddometer: 3,750
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrprez View Post
...
How's the coffee?

John
Gone
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Old 01-21-2013, 09:10 AM   #73088
mrprez
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Joined: Apr 2008
Location: Mobile, Al
Oddometer: 1,265
Quote:
Originally Posted by acesandeights View Post
Gone
Sorry....good stuff.

I just got back from a test ride after resetting the sag on the rear shock. Pogo stick gone. Rides pretty well, can't wait to get out in the dirt somewhere and see how it does. NM, CO, UT, NV, OR?

You should plan to ride with us when we get out that way. Maybe a day or 2 or 3?

John
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Old 01-21-2013, 09:21 AM   #73089
acesandeights
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Location: So. Oregon
Oddometer: 3,750
I'll plan on it John. I would think NM, CO, UT, NV, OR would be a good test to see if you've got your suspension dialed in
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I may not be Rainman, but I'm not stupid eighter. Like Bartek on a taco.

I'll die with this hammer in my hand.
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Old 01-21-2013, 10:34 AM   #73090
Rob.G
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Fulltiming in an RV!
Oddometer: 2,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by tbrduc View Post
Hello,
it seems that this thread is about 'newer' DR's.
Mine is a '92 and as you know, different in many ways.
I tried searching for older models but the search engine here wasn't helpful
Where can I find data here on the older models?
It's basically stock, except for a JE piston, tires and airbox-jet modes from Uncle Jesse.

thanks.
The Pre-'96 DR650S Thread: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61568
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Old 01-21-2013, 03:15 PM   #73091
ram1000
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Joined: Feb 2004
Location: Tricities Washington
Oddometer: 1,826
The DR is headed back together after getting the frame powder coated semi-gloss black. While it is apart I took the RMZ450 forks apart and the machine shop is cutting new grooves in the dampening tubes to shorten the travel from 12.2" to 11.5". This will allow me to set the forks down farther in relation to the Cogent rear shock so that steering can be made more responsive.



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Old 01-21-2013, 03:26 PM   #73092
Rob.G
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Location: Fulltiming in an RV!
Oddometer: 2,128
Preload?

Nevermind... figured it out. :)

I had had a question about preload, but then thought about it a little more, re-read the ProCycle page, and answered my own question. I ended up going with 1" of total preload (0.47 kg springs). I also set the preload on the emulators at the two turn starting point suggested on the ProCycle page.

It's now 4 PM and the bike is back together. I haven't gone for a test-ride because it's too damn cold, but it feels nice from just sitting on it and pushing on the front end.

While I was out there, I installed that new case saver that they sell, and that fancy anodized blue rear brake clevis. I was hoping the brake clevis thing would help with the play in the rear brake. It might have helped a little... I won't know for sure until I ride it.

Rob
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Rob.G screwed with this post 01-21-2013 at 05:03 PM
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Old 01-21-2013, 06:01 PM   #73093
Adv Grifter
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by ram1000 View Post
The DR is headed back together after getting the frame powder coated semi-gloss black. While it is apart I took the RMZ450 forks apart and the machine shop is cutting new grooves in the dampening tubes to shorten the travel from 12.2" to 11.5". This will allow me to set the forks down farther in relation to the Cogent rear shock so that steering can be made more responsive.

The red pegs and shift lever are very sharp. Power coated also? It's so nice it'll be a shame to get her mudded up! It was 65F here in Nor Cal. Perfect riding weather.
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Old 01-21-2013, 07:53 PM   #73094
ram1000
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Joined: Feb 2004
Location: Tricities Washington
Oddometer: 1,826
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
The red pegs and shift lever are very sharp. Power coated also? It's so nice it'll be a shame to get her mudded up! It was 65F here in Nor Cal. Perfect riding weather.
The red parts are paint, and I intend to paint the rear grab bars and my homemade bag racks red also. They are primered now. A few other parts will be red like the oil cooler brackets and little brake brackets. I intend also to paint the valve covers red- got that idea from the Husky 630. Thanks...
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Old 01-21-2013, 09:31 PM   #73095
Adv Grifter
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by ram1000 View Post
The red parts are paint, and I intend to paint the rear grab bars and my homemade bag racks red also. They are primered now. A few other parts will be red like the oil cooler brackets and little brake brackets. I intend also to paint the valve covers red- got that idea from the Husky 630. Thanks...
Red and black have always been a killer combination. Love it. Those red accents really set off things ... and hide a lot of homeliness!

The Huskies red heads are way cool. Great inspiration.
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