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Old 01-22-2013, 04:38 AM   #17131
Adrian V
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Location: Albany Western Australia
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Seat concepts which one?

I want to get a Seat Concepts seat for my DRZ 400E, but am not sure whether to get the standard height seat, or the low seat and whether to specify standard or hard foam. I have short legs, 30" inseam and weigh about 220lbs. I want to use the bike for desert trips in Oz. I have a few questions:
Is the standard height seat more comfy than the low seat?
I am thinking either standard height standard foam or lower with hard foam might be the go; anyone any experience or thoughts about this?
Can I specify gripper for the sides as well? Is this a good idea?

Cheers, Adrian
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Old 01-22-2013, 05:37 AM   #17132
Wlfman
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A few months ago I purchased a 2004 for $2000 8600 miles, pretty much stock except bars and case savers.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwpowere36m3 View Post
Can you guys give me opinion on a couple of DRZ400S I'm interested in buying (New England area). Both DRZs were fairly stock.

2000 DRZ 8k miles asking $2750
Mods:
  • Yosh Muffler
  • Owner says PO jetted the bike
  • Skid Plate
  • Engine Side Cover Protection
  • Bark Busters

Bike appeared taken care of, though was a little dirty. Bike was cold when I arrived and hadn't been ridden in a couple months. It started up after a few tries. On the ride the bike sputtered and stumbled a lot at low RPMs and 1/4 to 1/2 throttle opening (choke didn't improve it much). At higher rpm it pulled strong and cleared up. Owner said that the bike really needs to warm up, I rode it, he rode and then I rode it again (total of maybe 20 min). It was better on my last ride, but still very noticeable. The Yoshimura muffler only had the spark arrestor... holy hell was it loud and popping on decel was tremendous

2002 DRZ 8k miles asking $3200 (said paid $2700 a couple of years ago for it, minus the muffler and jet kit)
Mods:
  • FMF Q4 Muffler
  • Dyno Jet Stage 1
  • 3x3 airbox mod
  • Skid Plate
  • Engine Side Cover Protection
  • Bark Busters

Bike appeared taken care of, was also a little dirty, new chain was loose and crusty (NOT rusty) with accumulated grime mixed with lube, missing fork boots. Bike was warm when I arrived as we met in a parking lot. Bike started right up. On the ride the bike ran well and again the exhaust was popping a bit on decel. There was a noticeable chatter felt through the bars when using the front brake, (steering stem bearings/adjustment, rotor deposits/pads).

2000 DRZ 16k miles asking $2200
Haven't seen it in person, listed on here with a TON of mods, appears to be well taken care of.
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Old 01-22-2013, 06:32 AM   #17133
WayneJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adrian V View Post
I want to get a Seat Concepts seat for my DRZ 400E, but am not sure whether to get the standard height seat, or the low seat and whether to specify standard or hard foam. I have short legs, 30" inseam and weigh about 220lbs.
Got a low/standard foam for my S last summer. The low seat, being wider, feels like it's about the same height as the stock seat but much more comfy. The standard foam works for me. I'm about 165lb/30" inseam.
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Old 01-22-2013, 09:37 AM   #17134
Starchamp
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DualSportDad View Post
The two main weak parts of a DRZ in my eyes are the valves and the oiling system. I don't take chances with either. I use the best oil possible and of a valve gets tight I rebuild the head. I'll only shim it once on the initial rebuild, check them at 3,000 miles and never look back. I also make sure to run very clean air filters at all times to help make sure I don't have to rebuild a head again. Its worked so far.
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What exactly do you mean by "rebuild the head"? New valves/springs/guides/seals, or actual machine work? Reason being, I've got about 9k miles on my '05 SM, and am shimming the valves for the first time. I'm going from 285s on the intake side to 280s, and from 308s on the exhaust side to 305 for the left and 300 for the right, based on my calculations. I thought about upgrading to stainless valves and new springs/retainers at this point, but not sure if I could get away with just lapping in the new valves, or if something more extensive might be needed, seat-wise. I've had no starting/idling/running issues with it so far, just trying to be a little pro-active. Thoughts?
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Old 01-22-2013, 09:59 AM   #17135
DualSportDad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Starchamp View Post
What exactly do you mean by "rebuild the head"? New valves/springs/guides/seals, or actual machine work? Reason being, I've got about 9k miles on my '05 SM, and am shimming the valves for the first time. I'm going from 285s on the intake side to 280s, and from 308s on the exhaust side to 305 for the left and 300 for the right, based on my calculations. I thought about upgrading to stainless valves and new springs/retainers at this point, but not sure if I could get away with just lapping in the new valves, or if something more extensive might be needed, seat-wise. I've had no starting/idling/running issues with it so far, just trying to be a little pro-active. Thoughts?
Why are you shimming the valves, are they out of spec or are you just trying to get them into a better spot? I set mine where I want them and never touch them again. Thats why I check them after the head rebuild at 3k and then just keave them until they get tight then rebuild. And yes by rebuild replace all the parts. Honestly id just send the head out to eddie and have him order the parts / do the machine work. From what I understand there are two options. ... stock 2 piece valves with stock Springs, retainers etc. And then ron hamp 1 piece valves with aftermarket spribgs etc.

The seat needs to be machined cause the valves have a coating on them. You can't lap the valves or you'll take that coating off.

If it were me is do one piece valves on a supermoto and 2 piece on a of road bike. The 2 piece are not as expensive and I hope that the sand will wear them out before a weld breaks. On a street used bike id assume the valves would last much longer snd id be afraid the valve could come apart at some point.

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Old 01-22-2013, 10:13 AM   #17136
focallength
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Starchamp View Post
What exactly do you mean by "rebuild the head"? New valves/springs/guides/seals, or actual machine work? Reason being, I've got about 9k miles on my '05 SM, and am shimming the valves for the first time. I'm going from 285s on the intake side to 280s, and from 308s on the exhaust side to 305 for the left and 300 for the right, based on my calculations. I thought about upgrading to stainless valves and new springs/retainers at this point, but not sure if I could get away with just lapping in the new valves, or if something more extensive might be needed, seat-wise. I've had no starting/idling/running issues with it so far, just trying to be a little pro-active. Thoughts?
getsome kibble whites and ditch the 2 piece stock valves...$30 ish a piece and theyll last forever, you can use the stock springs, but for $100 you can get a kibblewhite spring set. $220 gets you a bomb proof head, set it and forget it.
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Old 01-22-2013, 10:29 AM   #17137
Starchamp
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Location: Happy Valley, NJ USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DualSportDad View Post
Why are you shimming the valves, are they out of spec or are you just trying to get them into a better spot? I set mine where I want them and never touch them again. Thats why I check them after the head rebuild at 3k and then just keave them until they get tight then rebuild. And yes by rebuild replace all the parts. Honestly id just send the head out to eddie and have him order the parts / do the machine work. From what I understand there are two options. ... stock 2 piece valves with stock Springs, retainers etc. And then ron hamp 1 piece valves with aftermarket spribgs etc.

The seat needs to be machined cause the valves have a coating on them. You can't lap the valves or you'll take that coating off.

If it were me is do one piece valves on a supermoto and 2 piece on a of road bike. The 2 piece are not as expensive and I hope that the sand will wear them out before a weld breaks. On a street used bike id assume the valves would last much longer snd id be afraid the valve could come apart at some point.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by focallength View Post
getsome kibble whites and ditch the 2 piece stock valves...$30 ish a piece and theyll last forever, you can use the stock springs, but for $100 you can get a kibblewhite spring set. $220 gets you a bomb proof head, set it and forget it.
The valves are within spec, but on the tight side. I'm looking at replacing the enire valvetrain with a Kibblewhite stainless valve/spring/Ti retainer set, which I imagine (hope) can just be lapped to the seat (shouldn't be any funky coating on the stainless, right?). Though it's an SM, it sees a lot more dirt that tarmack, so I like the added reliability of the one-piece valves. Guess I'll start shopping! Thanks!
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Old 01-22-2013, 11:29 AM   #17138
savedzrex
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Nice

Nice pic & video........ looks like a good time!
Thanks for sharing

Quote:
Originally Posted by DR650SEDDY View Post

I took the DRZ on a ride on Sunday. It was mostly washes & various terrains. Here's one of my vids.

http://youtu.be/eSQRXwD_AVY

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Old 01-22-2013, 12:45 PM   #17139
Jvs
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Safe to say I won't be riding anytime soon

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Old 01-22-2013, 01:17 PM   #17140
focallength
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Safe to say I won't be riding anytime soon

why? no rain or snow forecasted...
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:43 PM   #17141
DualSportDad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by focallength View Post
getsome kibble whites and ditch the 2 piece stock valves...$30 ish a piece and theyll last forever, you can use the stock springs, but for $100 you can get a kibblewhite spring set. $220 gets you a bomb proof head, set it and forget it.
I was under the impression that the kibble whites didnt last long at all and tjat people have had a lot of priblems with the valve Springs. I think ron hamp uses ferra valves and then adds the coating to them like suzuki does.

Edit: Here's my thread from when I rebuikt my head. I pretty much asked everything that is needed to know. My gosh I was such a noob. http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/643...lacement-cost/

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Old 01-22-2013, 02:59 PM   #17142
Vulfy
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Location: NYC
Oddometer: 536
DRZ surging.

Hey all. My DRZ all of a sudden developed a real bad surging when the throttle is open about 1/3. Bike behaves like it is running out of fuel. If I open throttle more, surging goes away, but bike feels under-powered, even when I completely open up the throttle.

Here are a few things that happened prior to this.

1. Cold weather. I've never ran this DRZ in cold weather yet (got it just this fall). This might be the culprit, but how to fix it for cold weather, if its so?

2. Diluted gas with Sea Foam. I've been using Sea Foam on all my bikes without any problems. However DRZ is my first thumper. A friend of mine used to have a 125cc MZ Super Moto, and he experienced the same problem when we added a little bit of Sea Foam to his tank. After next refueling, without adding more Sea Foam, his bike was behaving normal, without any surging. I still have a good amount of gas in the tank, so did not refuel yet.

3. A week earlier, I left the fuel switch in the "primer" position, and rode the bike for a while like that. I then proceeded to turn the bike off and left it for a few hours, not running. After I came back, the bike wouldn't start. I completely depleted the battery, trying to start it.

At that point I noticed the fuel switch, and twisted it back to "ON" position. (There is no "OFF", only "ON" and "Prime")

I left my bike at my parent's house, took out the battery and re-charged it at home. Bike sat like that for a whole week.
After re-installing the battery, bike did start up, but after that it started to surge.

4. I have a feeling that it has to do with the carburetor, but its clean, as the bike been in the shop only recently, and the carburetor has been cleaned.

5. Could it be a fouled up spark plug?

Please keep in mind that I don't have a lot of experience, maintaining bikes, nor do I have space to take it apart. (I live in the apartment, and nobody that I know has an available garage for tinkering).

I usually take my bikes to the shop for maintenance, for any repairs needed. However with constant abuse I put on my bikes, the small repairs like these start to pile up and so do the costs.

I'd like to avoid taking it to the shop for this, and try to fix the problem myself. Of course, having limited knowledge, tools, and most importantly space where to work on the bike, I can only do so much, before I'm forced to take it to the shop.
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Old 01-22-2013, 04:24 PM   #17143
luni
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I won't speak specifically to your mechanical issue but generally speaking the DRZ is a very easy and very forgiving bike to work on. With regular maintenance and TLC it runs like a champ. Simple fixes like spark plugs, suspension, electronics, carbs, bearings, and generally everything outside of the engine case (which I haven't opened yet, but soon) is all accessible and fairly user friendly for the mechanically inclined. The DRZ was my first bike and I had no hesitation diving in and doing a carb rebuild the first week I had it and within a year doing a complete replacement of all bearings, suspension guts, carb upgrade, lighting, seat, luggage, you get the idea. Get a service manual and have at it.

As far as fouled spark plugs go I think I'm in the same boat. My DRZ sat (without draining the carb or draining the tank) for a few months and had issues with throttle response the few times I cranked it and now it just won't start. I got it to fire once on a fully charged battery and it immediately took a dump. First thing is replace the (2 year old) spark plug and some other routine maintenance while the gigantic IMS tank is off.
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Old 01-22-2013, 04:36 PM   #17144
focallength
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Interesting, I called kibblewhite and they say their valves, springs are for racing motors, not to be ran in everyday riders or even ran for more than a few hours at best. so thats where the trouble comes from.

Looks like im going to return all the KW stufg and just have sisneros build my head from scratch. Glad I called them, they said the engine would run great but couldnt garuntee how long and I would have to check clearences every few hours to avoid engine damage. So the problem arises from using race parts in a daily rider and expecting them to last...goes to show, if you contact the manufacturer directly you skip all the B.S.
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Old 01-22-2013, 04:36 PM   #17145
jkm
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I'd start simple. Drain the gas tank and carb and then put some fresh gas in the tank. Gas without ethanol if you can find it. See if that helps. If not, maybe a fresh plug. Good luck.....
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