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Old 01-22-2013, 07:58 AM   #2431
DirtyBlackIrish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NesquikNinja View Post
Well, time to head back to the dealership, I think.

Not sure what happened. It was 18 degrees out, I started my CRF, allowed adequate warm up time, shut 'er down, checked oil level and chain slack, and hit the road. Rode 12 miles to my friends house, parked, hung out for about 3-4 hours. Went back out to start it up- around 15 degrees now. All lights are on, bike makes the usual noises, turns over, coughs a little smoke (no more than expected with the weather it seems...?) but wont start. I let the starter turn for a total of 15-20 seconds give or take....

Checked the oil, nada. If I lean it about 20 degrees to the right, a little bit shows up in the window. I have 572 miles, and was taking it in for the valve check tomorrow, with plans of doing all the other 600 mile checkups on my own.

Any ideas? I never checked my oil cold....is it normal to not show up in the window?
Mine shows between the marks in the glass when the bike is held straight up off it's kickstand. That is what the manual says and that is how I've been checking mine. Hasn't had a problem going through oil at all. Even during break in but I rode soft then.
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Old 01-22-2013, 08:19 AM   #2432
bobfab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vspec View Post
250L lurking in a corner of Spoon Sports headquarters in Japan
Got the original link, id like to see what Spoon's shop looks like these days. I havent seen photos since the days when the B16 reigned as king!
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Old 01-22-2013, 08:33 AM   #2433
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[QUOTE=cat;20548096]Do the brakes really get better after a while? My rear brake is useless - after about 70km.
So i searched for alternative pads, EBC, Ferodo...as usual, nothing listed, yet. Searching the part numbers turns up only CRF250L - same as with the sprockets. So it seems no use trying to find what parts are used on other Hondas, because they have different part numbers even when they're the same thing.
I did find it listed by Vesrah (front pads only)...

My brakes were pretty useless at first, I was careful to try them a bit, since others had posted about it. If you can get away from traffic being behind you, slow down even when you don't have to with both front & rear and they get way better after a while. I can't remember how many miles it took. I think you need more kilometers on the bike to get them working better.
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Old 01-22-2013, 08:56 AM   #2434
'Flagger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SAPB View Post

My brakes were pretty useless at first, I was careful to try them a bit, since others had posted about it. If you can get away from traffic being behind you, slow down even when you don't have to with both front & rear and they get way better after a while. I can't remember how many miles it took. I think you need more kilometers on the bike to get them working better.
This has been my experience as well. Be patient, ride careful and they'll be better after some material transfers to the rotor.
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Old 01-22-2013, 08:59 AM   #2435
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Also.. read the following link on bedding in new brakes. I forget who posted this but it works.

http://ctbrakes.com/faqs.asp#bedding4
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Old 01-22-2013, 09:47 AM   #2436
Harcomo
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Rear sprocket removal

Quote:
Originally Posted by Krono View Post
Mine were torqued as hell, but i was warned.
I did it alone as follow : unlocked all the nuts when the wheel still in place with my foot, standing all my weight on the 17mm ring wrench. 1st gear should be engaged to prevent wheel spinning, too.


L
How did you accomplish this while still holding the allen wrench in the head of the bolt to keep it from turning? I tried loosening mine awhile ago and while I could turn the nut and rotate the entire nut and bolt assembly with the 17mm wrench, I couldn't apply enough holding force to keep the allen wrench on the bolt head and keep it from turning also. I probably need a socket wrench with allen key attachment for more leverage while I turn the nut on the backside. Why can't anything just be simple! Any tips welcomed.
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Old 01-22-2013, 09:49 AM   #2437
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 'Flagger View Post
Also.. read the following link on bedding in new brakes. I forget who posted this but it works.

http://ctbrakes.com/faqs.asp#bedding4
Beat me to it. The brakes on the CRFL are marginal for those accustomed to BRAKES. After I got my CRFL and noticing how soft they were I took the bike out and did pretty much what was suggested. Much better. They're still not what I would call decent brakes, but much better.

On the plus side, they work great offroad where you can give them a good squeeze and not have to worry about locking them up.
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Old 01-22-2013, 09:57 AM   #2438
itrack
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 'Flagger View Post
Also.. read the following link on bedding in new brakes. I forget who posted this but it works.

http://ctbrakes.com/faqs.asp#bedding4
I believe that was me. After riding the bike for 100 miles or so I bedded in the brakes using the carbotech instructions fort rave car and they have performed fine ever since. Honda probably speced an aggressive pad due to the weight combined with street use.
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Old 01-22-2013, 10:02 AM   #2439
Krono
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harcomo View Post
How did you accomplish this while still holding the allen wrench in the head of the bolt to keep it from turning? I tried loosening mine awhile ago and while I could turn the nut and rotate the entire nut and bolt assembly with the 17mm wrench, I couldn't apply enough holding force to keep the allen wrench on the bolt head and keep it from turning also. I probably need a socket wrench with allen key attachment for more leverage while I turn the nut on the backside. Why can't anything just be simple! Any tips welcomed.
Yup.. forgot to say i had the allen key prevented to rotate by a block of wood beside the sprocket

L
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Old 01-22-2013, 10:12 AM   #2440
Krono
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bungie4 View Post
Beat me to it. The brakes on the CRFL are marginal for those accustomed to BRAKES. After I got my CRFL and noticing how soft they were I took the bike out and did pretty much what was suggested. Much better. They're still not what I would call decent brakes, but much better.

On the plus side, they work great offroad where you can give them a good squeeze and not have to worry about locking them up.
My rear brake didnt woked at all, or almost when i took the bike from the shop. I figured out that the rear wheel was misaligned. After a fix, it went to brake a little, but hardly.

Then i tried a beddin process, but that mostly rubbed the rear tire.

Finally, after 6000km, i must say they are working good.

Maybe thats me who comes used to

The good news is they probably will last the whole bike's lifespan

L
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Old 01-22-2013, 10:23 AM   #2441
SAPB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krono View Post
Yup.. forgot to say i had the allen key prevented to rotate by a block of wood beside the sprocket

L
Yes, just went out to look, since I'm thinking of doing the 13/42 soon. Looks like you could put something (another wrench) in the slot in the rear sprocket, which would stop the allen from turning. I noticed KRONO has translated by google, so something may have gotten lost in translation. By ring wrench, I would say offset box wrench. I took several socket wrenches out to see, and there doesn't seem to be enough room to get it in there, have to be a box wrench. Funny, too cold to ride now here. The temperature here tonight is going to 9 F (-12.7C). Every time I think I've got all the tools needed to do the job, coming back to get more. Maybe if my toolbox didn't weigh so much, it would be easier to take the whole thing.
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CRF250L Service Manual http://www.hondampe.com.au/docs/owni...F250L13_OM.pdf
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Old 01-22-2013, 10:36 AM   #2442
Harcomo
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Originally Posted by Krono View Post
Yup.. forgot to say i had the allen key prevented to rotate by a block of wood beside the sprocket

L
Great idea!
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Old 01-22-2013, 10:55 AM   #2443
Vspec
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cat View Post
^^What comes next? The suspense is killing me...

Are they going to make hot parts for us?
That is it, no more. Spoon Sports only deals with cars, now what an engineer/mechanic does in his free time with the shop's equipment ....

Mugen is the Honda tuner that has also dwelled into bike tuning and guess what ... they have CRF250L parts: Slip-on and license plate mount

Quote:
Originally Posted by bobfab View Post
Got the original link, id like to see what Spoon's shop looks like these days. I havent seen photos since the days when the B16 reigned as king!
Ask and ye shall receive. Also keep digging around the speedhunters, pretty sure there is a feature about Dino's last visit there.

Sorry for the grossly OT nature of this post.
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Old 01-22-2013, 12:33 PM   #2444
Harcomo
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Rear sprocket removal made easy

First of all, Krono, you're the man! The block of wood tip was the finishing touch! And thanks to everyone else on here for their tips on sprocket removal also. I just took some of the things I've picked up on here and put them to work and the rear sprocket removal was a piece of cake.

Tools needed were a 17mm offset box end wrench, the 6mm allen wrench that came with the 250L, some blocks of wood or cement blocks, etc. and a good leather glove to save the skin on your knuckles.

I had the bike up on the Craftsman motorcycle jack (the bike on the sidestand would work just the same) and after stacking the appropriate amount of concrete and wood blocks up to the correct height, I inserted the allen wrench in the sprocket bolt and slowly lowered the bike back down just until the tire was in contact with the floor. I also put a block of wood behind the rear tire to keep it from turning. Here's the setup.......



Then, it took a little tinkering to get things lined up with both wrenches and the allen wrench at the right angle on the wood blocks......with just my left hand holding the allen wrench square in the bolt, I turned down on the sprocket nut on the back side with the 17mm wrench and in turn, it pressed the allen down into the wood block preventing it from turning and stripping the bolt head out. And low and behold, with just a reasonable amount of force, the nut popped loose and it was easy turning from then on. For the other 5 bolts/nuts, just rotate the rear tire until it's in the right position as the first one and proceed to take them all out. No torn up bolt heads and no trips to the parts store looking for the right tools. Simple as that! A closeup of the process........notice I had the end of the allen wrench sitting on a handy knot in the pine block to keep it from pressing into the wood......



I hope this helps someone else out along the way that is looking to replace a rear sprocket.
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Old 01-22-2013, 01:08 PM   #2445
Krono
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harcomo View Post
First of all, Krono, you're the man! The block of wood tip was the finishing touch! And thanks to everyone else on here for their tips on sprocket removal also. I just took some of the things I've picked up on here and put them to work and the rear sprocket removal was a piece of cake.

...
Congrats !

Spot on my motto : all means are good

L
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