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Old 01-22-2013, 01:41 PM   #2446
Spud Rider
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I've been very interested in this motorcycle since it was announced. How strong is the subframe? My XR650L has a weak subframe.

Spud
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Old 01-22-2013, 01:45 PM   #2447
SAPB
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Originally Posted by Krono View Post
Congrats !

Spot on my motto : all means are good

L
Also, I think someone on another thread, I think TNC, said that they use loctite on those nuts, and a little heat from a torch can make the loctite toast. You can also toast other stuff close by if not careful.
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Old 01-22-2013, 01:56 PM   #2448
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Originally Posted by Spud Rider View Post
I've been very interested in this motorcycle since it was announced. How strong is the subframe? My XR650L has a weak subframe.

Spud
Someone posted on the minimalist about the frames being weak on the XR650L, thinking the complained about weight on the CRF address this. Not riding mine to extremes here just yet.
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:01 PM   #2449
Spud Rider
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Yes, just went out to look, since I'm thinking of doing the 13/42 soon...
Instead of a 13T/42T sprocket combination, you might consider the 14T/45T sprocket combination. The 45T sprocket is stock for the Honda XR650L, therefore, many choices are available. I employ the Primary Drive sprockets available from Rocky Mountain ATV/MC on my XR650L. I like these sprockets very much, and they only cost $19.99.

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...Steel-Sprocket



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Old 01-22-2013, 02:17 PM   #2450
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Originally Posted by Spud Rider View Post
Instead of a 13T/42T sprocket combination, you might consider the 14T/45T sprocket combination. The 45T sprocket is stock for the Honda XR650L, therefore, many choices are available. I employ the Primary Drive sprockets available from Rocky Mountain ATV/MC on my XR650L. I like these sprockets very much, and they only cost $19.99.

...
Spud
... what would gives almost the same gearing reduction but at the added cost of a new chain, as 13/42 allows you to keep the stock chain.

L
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:19 PM   #2451
Spud Rider
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Originally Posted by SAPB View Post
Yes, just went out to look, since I'm thinking of doing the 13/42 soon...
The XR650L rear sprocket is also commonly available with 48 teeth.

In addition, the PBI C/S sprocket for the CBR250R/XR250R is available in sizes from 12T-15T.

http://shop.pbisprockets.com/product...&categoryId=20

Therefore, one could also employ a 48T/15T sprocket combination instead of a 13T/42T sprocket combination.

However, I think a 45T rear sprocket is a good choice. For technical off road riding one could employ the stock, 14T front sprocket with the 45T rear sprocket. Then, one could easily swap a 15T, PBI C/S sprocket for lower rpms during extended street riding. The larger sprockets reduce wear on both sprockets as well as the drive chain, thereby extending the service life of all three components.

Spud
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:21 PM   #2452
Spud Rider
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Originally Posted by Krono View Post
... what would gives almost the same gearing reduction but at the added cost of a new chain, as 13/42 allows you to keep the stock chain.

L
Yes, that's true. Therefore, it would be best to switch to a 45T rear sprocket after one needs a new drive chain.

Spud
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:26 PM   #2453
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Originally Posted by Spud Rider View Post
Yes, that's true. Therefore, it would be best to switch to a 45T rear sprocket after one needs a new drive chain.

Spud
Yup ... but let's wear the stock chain with a 13/42, then use the stock 14t contersprocket w/ a new rear sprocket and a longer chain

Thats economy

L
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:26 PM   #2454
Spud Rider
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Originally Posted by Krono View Post
... what would gives almost the same gearing reduction but at the added cost of a new chain, as 13/42 allows you to keep the stock chain.

L
Another factor to consider is possible interference with the chain guide and/or chain guard when using 45T, or larger sprockets. Also, the larger sprockets might cause accelerated wear of the chain guide slipper, part #9 in the following diagram.



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Old 01-22-2013, 02:31 PM   #2455
Spud Rider
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If one wants a 13T C/S sprocket, I can also recommend the Primary Drive C/S sprocket for the XR250R. These excellent C/S sprockets only cost $8.99.

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...Front-Sprocket

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Old 01-22-2013, 02:34 PM   #2456
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Originally Posted by Spud Rider View Post
Another factor to consider is possible interference with the chain guide and/or chain guard when using 45T, or larger sprockets. Also, the larger sprockets might cause accelerated wear of the chain guide slipper, part #9 in the following diagram.

...

Spud
This chain guide slipper have to be reversed when using a 42t.
I guess i would simply remove it with a lager sprocket, unless i can find a suitable aftermarket part.

L
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:37 PM   #2457
Larry Ferguson
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... what would gives almost the same gearing reduction but at the added cost of a new chain, as 13/42 allows you to keep the stock chain.

L
You wouldn't really need a whole new chain. You could get another master link and add enough links to make it work. I have run chains with 2 master links many miles with no trouble. Plus, it makes it easy to switch back if needed.
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:45 PM   #2458
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You wouldn't really need a whole new chain. You could get another master link and add enough links to make it work. I have run chains with 2 master links many miles with no trouble. Plus, it makes it easy to switch back if needed.
True

I didnt even consider this, because were I live, chains have to be riveted (by law).

Not that can't be done, but put aside, the 13/42 w/ stock chain is a "no brainer"

L
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:47 PM   #2459
Spud Rider
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Originally Posted by Krono View Post
This chain guide slipper have to be reversed when using a 42t.
I guess i would simply remove it with a lager sprocket, unless i can find a suitable aftermarket part.

L
I completely removed the chain guide slipper on my XR650L. The chain guide slipper is installed to prevent the drive chain from leaving the rear sprocket. My XR650L has greater suspension travel than the CRF250L; however, I have been riding the last 16,000 miles without any drive chain problems. Nevertheless, a more "spirited" rider might derail the drive chain if he removed the chain guide slipper.

I also removed the chain guard, since I don't carry passengers on my bike. Drive chain maintenance and rear wheel maintenance are much easier after the chain guard and the chain guide slipper have been removed.

Spud
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:47 PM   #2460
Harcomo
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Originally Posted by Krono View Post
This chain guide slipper have to be reversed when using a 42t.
I guess I didn't realize this......if I ever read about it, I had forgotten!

So you just unbolt the slipper and flip it over with the beveled end now on top and facing the rear?
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