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Old 01-17-2013, 12:13 PM   #16
Beemerguru
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Location: Foster City, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy_unaventurous View Post
Greetings knowers of more than me!
My R80G/S has a totally worn out rear hub, brakes dragging or being ridden on I suspect. Anyway , gotta do something about it for rego. The great guys at BM Ringwood talk of machining out the hub and pressing in a sleeve internal diameter ( when surfaced down) same as a stocky. They are pretty straight guys , but I'm just checking what else is out there? Must have happened to other 31 year old bikes I guess

Anyone hear about this or have any knowledge of any other way, or indeed (ha ha ha ) have a second hand 3 bolt hub for sale?

Andy

Hi Andy,,,say HI to Chris for me...great guy and took care of my G/S when I stored it at his shop a long time ago. Any chance you've seen a white G/S, Harrison brake, panniers that used to belong to a yank a while back ;-).

I've got 2 hubs at a shop in the US midwest who will grind the surface smooth and "spray" a metal coating layer by layer to build up the surface back to stock. Then the brake shoes and surface will be cut to fit. Expensive but a lot less than a new wheel or hub.

The other short term option would be to have the ridge ground down to the current level and have a GOOD brake shop custom fit a softer, thicker brake lining to the shoe to take up the gap. Standard procedure for the bigger brake shops.
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Old 01-17-2013, 12:52 PM   #17
dm635
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Reading this helps me realize that my bike must have the low mileage the seller indicated. He says under 12K. He owned from '94 & the title then had 9K. He also says he couldn't have put more than a couple K on it the whole time. The odometer somehow got scrambled & all digits do there own thing riding. I did get the trip odo working correctly so I'll check off every 999 miles on the maint. log I keep. The seller had 3 beemers when I made this one mine. I hardly ever saw him on it in the 8 yrs I've known him. He was either on the 75 or 76 R90/6 or his '85K100RT.

When I pulled the rear wheel there no ridge on the hub or the drive. No wear there either. I feel I got the best of his 3. The R90 is very clunky I had had no interest in the K bike. The R80 is what was offered to me. Finally having an air head is what brought me here. Now if I can get it ready for spring I'll be a happy boy. Fresh tires, dual brakes & a few pricey items to be safe.
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Old 01-17-2013, 12:59 PM   #18
Airhead Wrangler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beemerguru View Post
I've got 2 hubs at a shop in the US midwest who will grind the surface smooth and "spray" a metal coating layer by layer to build up the surface back to stock. Then the brake shoes and surface will be cut to fit. Expensive but a lot less than a new wheel or hub.
What shop?
What material?
How much?
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Old 01-17-2013, 01:47 PM   #19
peterman
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I made a fixture for holding the rear drive in my lathe.
the one in the pic was sleeved and re-bored to repair the bearing fit.


I have done a few of these.
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Old 01-20-2013, 11:10 AM   #20
8jest
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I have local shop that will reline brakes for $10-20 a shoe. Cheaper than a new set.
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:15 AM   #21
Andy_unaventurous OP
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Hi, I'll certainly drop your name next time Im out that way. They are good blokes indeed. Hmm cant recall your bike but Im always looking
A
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beemerguru View Post
Hi Andy,,,say HI to Chris for me...great guy and took care of my G/S when I stored it at his shop a long time ago. Any chance you've seen a white G/S, Harrison brake, panniers that used to belong to a yank a while back ;-).

I've got 2 hubs at a shop in the US midwest who will grind the surface smooth and "spray" a metal coating layer by layer to build up the surface back to stock. Then the brake shoes and surface will be cut to fit. Expensive but a lot less than a new wheel or hub.

The other short term option would be to have the ridge ground down to the current level and have a GOOD brake shop custom fit a softer, thicker brake lining to the shoe to take up the gap. Standard procedure for the bigger brake shops.
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:17 AM   #22
Andy_unaventurous OP
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Thanks Everyone I'm heartened

Hi everyone, sorry for the delay in getting back. This is good news and I'm feeling optimistic that I got the extent of the wear on my rear hub wrong. The bike is not here but she'll be back soon and I'll get back in and look again

Andy
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:38 PM   #23
dm635
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supershaft View Post
Brake drums are a problem for us. Too bad every airhead ever sold didn't have the brake shoe lining replaced with a lining that actually wears versus the drum! Those linings don't get old and hard. They come brand new like that. The drum wear isn't necessarily from high miles or maladjusted brakes. It's from the linings. A curve dug into the center of the drum? I call that a glaciated drum. The same basic U shape as a glaciated valley. It's from those rock hard stock brake shoes. I see it ALL the time on all the beemers I have been around.
Are there any replacement shoes that do wear instead of the drum? One's that are softer.
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Old 01-22-2013, 03:21 PM   #24
Airhead Wrangler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dm635 View Post
Are there any replacement shoes that do wear instead of the drum? One's that are softer.

Yes and no. Pretty much all the aftermarket friction material is softer (as it should be), but all the aftermarket shoes seem to use the same defective castings that don't fit right. They can be cleaned up with a file to work, but for the amount of trouble involved it's probably easier to just have your oem shoes fitted with new pad material.
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Old 01-22-2013, 03:27 PM   #25
supershaft
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The only way I have seen it dome properly was sending your shoes to a brake/clutch relining place and have the stock shoes relined. Softer? From what I have seen, ANY shoe lining is a lot softer and works a LOT better from the reports I have got.
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Old 01-27-2013, 12:51 PM   #26
One Less Harley
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saw a possibility of used hubs in the UK, Motorworks BMW
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Old 11-16-2013, 02:55 PM   #27
LoJack
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I have a drum brake that needs some work. Is the shoe material that Bench Mark Works sells something that will not wear the drum as quickly? The pad thickness on my shoes is about the same as what they have.

Anyone get anywhere with the plasma coating?
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Old 01-28-2014, 07:26 PM   #28
One Less Harley
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I've contacted a company (Plasma Coatings Arlington, TN) which does plasma coating and will report back when I hear something. I'm not sure if the drum will have to be turned....if so that will create another issue. I'm guessing it will need to be done. I have two rear wheels. I haven't measured the ID but pretty sure one is worn past the limit. I need to measure them both.


Hub spec is- Min- 200mm
Max- 201.5mm

The hubs I have measure 201.676mm ( 124K miles)
. 200.406mm (miles n/a)
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Old 01-30-2014, 06:38 AM   #29
acap650
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8jest View Post
I have local shop that will reline brakes for $10-20 a shoe. Cheaper than a new set.
I'm currently working on a friend's G/S that has a set of freshly relined oem shoes. They do not conform that well to the drum. We will do a short break-in ride then pull the shoes and sand the high spots, just need to be careful not to overheat and glaze the lining.
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Old 01-30-2014, 02:49 PM   #30
mark1305
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Two questions in my mind:

Is the Midwest company referred to Millenium Technologies by any chance? They have always been one of the top rated outfits for recoating Nikasil cylinders.

Does anyone know if a process I've known as sub-arc welding is suitable for building up the steel lining in the drum? I saw it used on the prop shafts (Monel) of my CG patrol boat in Runyans Shipyard in Pensacola back in the 80s. Due to electrolosys the shafts had sections that had to have several inches diameter turned down on a (very big) lathe. Then the sub-arc machine deposited new metal layer by layer as the lathe turned the shaft at about 1-2rpm. I'm not sure how much heat was generated and transferred to the shaft itself, but one of the shipyard supervisors made it sound pretty low with no visible arc going on.
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