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Old 05-26-2006, 08:50 AM   #1
ediehl OP
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ATK / Rotax parts?

Anybody know of a good source for ATK and/or Rotax parts? I'm in western SC and I don't know of any suppliers in the area, so it'll likely be mail-order for me.

Eric Diehl
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Old 05-26-2006, 09:14 AM   #2
itch
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MotoExotica

Great shop in Vacaville Ca, unbelievable customer service, etc, well worth the effort
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Old 05-26-2006, 10:19 AM   #3
Arch
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Eric, contact American Dirtbike...
http://www.americandirtbike.com/index.html
Nice & knowledgeable Rotax folks.
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Old 05-26-2006, 01:09 PM   #4
HighwayChile
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try http://www.atkusa.com/
you can look up a local-ish dealer or buy direct if none is within 75 mi or so.
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Old 05-26-2006, 09:14 PM   #5
Donkey Hotey
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+1 for ordering from ATK. What year do you have? Pre 95, call American Dirtbike. Post 95, call ATK. Rotax engine parts, call either. I think ATK has a $50 minimum order. Where do you live and what do you have?

Oh yeah, fill out yer' profile so we don't have to ask stuff like that.
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Old 05-28-2006, 05:03 AM   #6
ediehl OP
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Atk

I live in western SC, a half-hour from the mountains. I just picked up a '97 605 ATK dualsport
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Old 05-28-2006, 10:40 AM   #7
Donkey Hotey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ediehl
I just picked up a '97 605 ATK dualsport
Ohhhh...97's suck. ATK's are cool except for 97s...oh wait...I've got two of them. Never mind

Things to watch on that bike:
  • Keep an eye on the exhaust. Does your muffler have one or two bolts holding it to the subframe? If you still have the single bolt muffler, you need to upgrade it. It's not a question of if it will break but when. ATK was blowing out complete two-bolt exhausts for $120 back in November. Maybe they'll still have pity on you and give you the price. You'll need a retrofit bracket that they sell to go with it. That bracket welds to the stock subframe adding a second mounting hole. I'm just finishing that upgrade and it's not for the faint of heart. The old bracket has to be shaved completely off the frame. I had to mount the subframe in a milling machine to do mine. See this link for the whole exhaust discussion: http://www.atkusa.com/atkforum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1011
  • Be really gentle with that kickstand. Use it ONLY to prop up the bike. Don't climb on or off the bike with the kickstand holding it up. Don't kickstart the bike on the kickstand. If you park on a hill, put it in gear and let the transmission hold it in place: don't let the kickstand hold the bike's weight against the hill. If you ignore that, the bracket WILL tear out of the swingarm wall. It's light. That's the price you pay for light.
  • Keep an eye on the swingarm's lower shock mount. One of my bike's had the crap beat out of it (belonged to DKSSMITH) and the lower mount is fine. The other one has been foo-foo ridden (mine) and it's cracked a number of times in a number of places. I suspect that they got cleaned up with a grinder after welding (at the factory) and the wall thickness must vary between bikes.
  • Watch the welds around the steering head. One of my bikes has a crack at the very top of the backbone where it welds to the steering head. The weld cracked at the margin (the bike that was beaten to hell). Another guy I knew had a weld crack on the side of the downtube. My first bike has never had a problem in this area. Based on all the weld cracks, I suspect they had quite a variance in the penetration of their welds.
  • Keep an eye on the countershaft sprocket nut. This is a new one that a bunch of owners are just discovering. The nut comes loose, the sprocket hammers on the output splines, then you need a new transmission shaft. Torque it, crimp the bent washer and STILL check it from time-to-time. I don't know if the splines wear and that's why it comes loose or if the splines wear because the nut came loose. Better safe than $orry.
I don't want to scare you--it's a really good bike. Every bike has it's weak points. Those are the weak points on this bike. It's better to know them before you discover them on your own.

The ATK owners are being pushed off the ATK message board and moved to a new site. It pisses me off to no end because we had a good archive built over there. None of it got migrated. I don't know how long the archives will remain.

The old site:
http://www.atkusa.com/atkforum/default.asp

The new site:
http://www.atkmotorsports.com/atkbb/
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Old 05-28-2006, 10:52 PM   #8
JPI
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Get ahold of Keith @ ADB, he knows his stuff on ATK

http://www.americandirtbike.com/index.html
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Old 05-29-2006, 03:32 AM   #9
oziexplorer
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Location: Perth, West Oz
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I have printed some of the ATK 605 1997-related threads to acrobat pdf format, if you're interested in some.. ..

Cheers,
Dave
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Old 03-27-2008, 09:10 AM   #10
eli54
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Ron Wood keeps all the engine parts in stock.

www.rotax.net
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Old 01-23-2013, 01:27 PM   #11
Seavoyage
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Old thread but...

Info sourced from Dirty BARFing to be accessible to current and future ATK 350 or ATK 605 owners:

Wealth of knowledge on the ATK Forum, ADVrider, and Yahoo ATK Group. Additional maintenance info on ATK Motorsports link.

Download the:

Local dealers? I recommend you develop a close relationship with Dan Blum (707) 446-4282 at MotoXotica in Vacaville.

Oil change every 1000 miles. Oil filter every 5000 miles. Oil filter access is on the magneto side (on the right). This is a 3 Quart dry sump system. Rotax used Castrol GTX2 15W50 HD; ATK used Spectro 20W50 in the summer; 10W40 in the winter. One inexpensive alternative is JASO DH2 compliant Shell Rotella T-3 15W40 from Walmart ($4/Qt.) Go cheap and find HiFlo 151, K&N 151 or EMGO 10-26950 oil filters for $3 at your local auto parts sport.

Interesting belt driven cam. Easy to maintain, but inspect the cam belt often and replace it every year. Here's a video: http://www.apophisparts.co.uk/index.php?p=10_22_Cambelt

Valve Adjustments: Very easy to check and adjust valves. Screw type adjusters: no shims. The factory calls for .002" (.05mm) for both, Ron Wood, suggests .005" in and ex. I set mine at I: .004" (.10mm) E: .005" (.13mm) .

Source the Cam belt from Apophis (UK), Force, or cross reference the Gates part (Timing Belt NSN 3030-00-408-2420 Goodyear 322L075 Positive Drive Trapezoidal Tooth Profile Belt, Light, 32.2" Pitch Length, 0.14" Height, 0.375" Pitch, 0.75") at local auto parts store. You'll need a Rotax crankshaft fixation screw M8x30 P/N 241-965, from Apophis or Vintage CanAm Parts, white paint pen, and a straight edge ruler to set cam timing.

If the air-cooled motor overheats, the belt tensioner nut may come loose... not good.

Apply Hi-temp silicone on the edge of the lower left side case covers which does not have a gasket. This prevents water/dirt entering the cam belt area.

Spare parts sourced from ATK (Utah), Ron Woods, or AmericanDirtBike (ADB). Keith @ ADB (951) 283-5447 focuses on pre-96 Horst Leitner designs.

Rotax parts are much cheaper from ultralight aircraft suppliers: California Power Systems; or from UK suppliers ( Apophis, Haines & Co.) that supports the Armstrong/Harley Davidson MT350E or CCM. The Rotax Type 348 engine family was used in the KTM 504 and eventually evolved into the liquid-cooled version used in the BMW F650/Aprilia Pegaso.

If you sincerely believe you need more power (and less reliability) explore the Woods-Rotax kits, Swap Rotax 865 for 860 cams with HD springs, larger intake valves; and contact Mike Crowther's EdCO (Nee. Engine Dynamics) in Petaluma. Mike will get you sorted out to get you serious HP.

Carburetor: 40mm Dellorto with Domino throttle... I'll leave it up to the owner if that's good or bad. Option for remote choke vs. 'flip-up' lever choke at carburetor. Dellorto Spare Parts: Guzzino.com . Many have tried Mikuni 38mm TMX used on the pre-94 models. Lee @ ATK (801) 298-8288 x109 tested Electron and Qwiksilver. Keihin cables are on the wrong side.

Terrycable has replacement cables.

WARNING: If you purchase a Rotax 4-stroke that isn't running; DO NOT attempt to electric start prior to confirming the cam belt is OK, and timing is correct.

To start the ATK605 cold with choke, you have to keep the throttle slightly open to keep revs up until it's warm. This was a common trait.

Kick Starting routine is like any other big thumper: Ignition on/Fuel on; Kick through 3-5 times with decompression lever pulled in and throttle closed; Set to TDC (decompression 'clicks' out, push don't kick the kick start lever down until you feel tension or it stops, then return kick start lever to top of stroke); Open and shut throttle 3 times (if you have a accelerator pump carb); very slight throttle; give a firm kick... repeat routine. Only kick if at TDC.

Decompression actuator on headcover can get stuck = no compression. May be challenging to kickstart: get your jetting right, and use the decompression lever.

Stock air filter is K&N pleated cylindrical type P/N KSP2538E. Get the foam outer wrap ATK P/N 060205 for better filtration.

Exhaust: Have a header heat shield or header wrap so you don't burn your right leg. Look for Big Gun exhaust (no longer manufactured), much better than the Supertrapp which probably won't pass a 96db sound check. We used a FMF Q2 (P/N Product #: 044120 for '03-'05 YZ450F) and required some mods to the midpipe. Upgrade silencer mount to a 2-bolt design. '96-'97 1-bolt design was prone to fractures.

Get a Magura hydraulic clutch from ADB. The decompression lever is integrated with the Magura hydraulic clutch (KTM, Husqvarna) master cylinder. The perch is prone to breaking and quite costly. I highly suggest hand guards. Clutch maintenance means access behind the cam belt assembly - a P.I.T.A. Confirm if you have a 8 or a 9-disc clutch.

Electricals: Nippondenso electronic ignition. 190W Stator is very capable (Harley-Davidson 12V 190W 15.8A 3-phase AC Generator Part #84820620 NSN 2920-01-384-3744). Regulator/Rectifier OEM part#100007 is a Tympanium; tends to overheat, and require replacement; explore TrailTech Regulator/Rectifier (3-phase) if compatible with 190W stator.

Use a TrailTech dash if the OEM is missing or you need an odometer. I installed a TrailTech Endurance, but you'll have to check if an Endurance II or Vapor for air-cooled motor will work.

Notorious for going through wet cell batteries, The 190W stator and OEM regulator/rectifier may over charge the battery. A Shorai battery is highly recommended. My regulator/rectifier failed one evening, and I couldn't kick start or bump start. Just glad Tom G and Doc Wong were around, and we ran jumper cables straight to the starter motor. Lesson Learned: carry jumper cables and a tow strap. Starter Solenoid relay 4KB-81940-00-00-4KD from Yamaha. DO NOT jump start using a battery from a running car engine, just connect straight to the 12V battery with the car ignition off.

Suspension: WP4054 USD forks and WP or Ohlins shock: pretty standard KTM. Yes that is a 40mm mid-80's fork, so quite a bit of flex. primitive by today's standards. Try to get the 1999 and up with the Paioli 46mm forks conventional (Showa innards) with Ohlins rear shock. The rear shock is linkage-less like the KTM PDS so look for a suspension tuner with experience with PDS (Dick's, SPS, etc.) or you'll have a difficult time tuning the rear suspension. Inspect the lower shock mount for fractures.

Comes stock with Pro-Taper fat bars/handlebars. D.I.D. rims.

Brembo calipers/master cylinder (KTM). Rear Talon hub is unique, and isn't a cush drive. Rear brake rotor is unobtainium (if you wear down, Good luck on finding a replacement). Answer Radialite Rear Sprocket is a Suzuki standard bolt pattern. Front brake rotor (Front brake rotor: Same part as '06-'09 KTM 450 XC '04-'06 450 MXC; '99-'02 LC4) and Talon hub matches KTM. Front Wheel Bearings 6204-2RS (20 x 47 x 14) ; 2 required. Rear Wheel Bearings: 6005-2RS (25 x 47 x 12) ; 3 required.

Locktite the Countershaft Retaining Nut, mark so you can check for rotation, and check frequently before and after every ride . It tends to come loose resulting in catastrophic failure and damage to the transmission shaft.

Plastic: UFO Rear fender is a mid-90's KTM300. Almost impossible to find in white. Still on backorder at ATK. Side panels are unique to ATK and of different color for different years.

KTM Part#'s
FF: 50208410100
RF: 50208414000
Side Panel (left): 54608441000
Side Panel (right): 54608541000

Seat cover: Guts Racing.

Front hydraulic line plastic protector and decals are hard to source.
Tank decals are still available.

Frame: What frame? it's just a 3 Qt. oil tank and steering head attached to the heavy 100 lbs. motor. Yes, it's asymmetrical: a one sided 'frame'. Swingarm bolts to the motor. Inspect the steering head welds for fractures.

The footpegs are small, and unlike the '88-'94 no aftermarket available, but you can try modifying XR100 mounts then fit Fastways or Pivotpegs.

The subframe was prone to fractures at the mount points. Aluminium airbox is integrated with the subframe. Since the subframe wasn't designed for significant weight bearing, you may have to make some reinforcing mods. Panniers? Here are some ideas.

Kickstand: Do not put your weight on the kickstand. It is only designed to hold the bike upright. If you mount the bike with the kickstand down, it will bend and eventually break at the tab on the swingarm. Unobtainium, and any weld just weakens the swingarm.

Source an ample field tool kit for field repairs for the Armstrong MT500 or Harley-Davidson MT350 from the British Army or Bundeswehr. For the curious, here's what the Harley-Davidson MT350E looks like:

UK MoD
Yes, that Rotax engine is bullet-proof!
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Old 01-23-2013, 01:32 PM   #12
Baja Dad
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Location: Norco California
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keith@americandirtbike.com
ATK- Rotax parts!
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Old 01-23-2013, 03:00 PM   #13
westy
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mt riders

if you go to mt rider in the uk its all about rotax engined bikes the armstrong and the 350 harley
.mtridersclub.co.uk
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