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Old 01-23-2013, 11:43 AM   #16
disston
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Joined: Mar 2011
Location: Silver Spring, Md
Oddometer: 8,029
There are various sites on the web for looking up vin numbers. The one I like is this;

http://realoem.com/bmw/

Learn to use RealOEM dot com and you will eventually understand why. Use the dealer sites when you are ordering parts but if you just want to look something up or share it on the web use Real OEM, please.

There's a place you can enter your 7 digit number and get the build date.
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Old 01-23-2013, 01:40 PM   #17
groop
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Joined: Jun 2007
Location: oc, ca
Oddometer: 3,015
Quote:
Originally Posted by dm635 View Post
Hate to hijack, but how do I get the above numbers in the quote for my '78 R80/7 ? Prefix is 612**** with build date of 8/77
My favorite is this link. http://bmbikes.co.uk/chassispages/enginechassis800.htm for the 800cc bikes. Pick another blue box on top for other displacements
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Old 01-23-2013, 01:50 PM   #18
groop
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Joined: Jun 2007
Location: oc, ca
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Originally Posted by CanadaBiker View Post
Can you retroactively declare that those years were in fact non-op status and pay the lower rate, or do they automatically make you pay those years as 'full' since the non-op Statius was never declared?
Don't know the answer to that entirely but it has something to do with whether or not the vehicle is no longer active in the DMV database. We call this 'out of the system'. Sometimes when perusing CL for old motorcycles sellers will make claims that "it's out to the system so no back fees". The actual time that it takes to actually get 'out of the system' is up for debate. So the best old bikes to find are the ones with the original license plates, that have been registered as non-op since these require the least amount of headache to get them registered and insured.
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Old 01-23-2013, 07:50 PM   #19
gatorjos OP
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Joined: Mar 2011
Location: San Francisco
Oddometer: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by disston View Post
My ex-girl friend Laurie rode an R75/5 and she was 4'6" or something. She rode in the city and had to stop most times next to a curb so she could put her foot down.
Ha! I won't be having that problem... It's a little squatted right now, but not as bad as some bikes I have ridden. A little taller seat and dropping the foot pegs and inch or so would probably make a big difference.

Thanks for all the info!
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Old 01-23-2013, 09:27 PM   #20
Cordless
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Joined: Sep 2006
Location: ABQ, NM
Oddometer: 2,012
I am 6' 6" so maybe I can comment. I sold my g/s because it was too small for me. I have ridden a /5, own a /6, and ride a /7. For some reason the /7 fits me better than the other airheads. I have stock bars and the stock seat on my /7 and can ride a long day in comfort.

That said, I can see myself taking the clapped out Corbin seat I bought for a few bucks to a seat builder and having it padded and raised a couple of inches. Dropping the pegs will also help you with the painful knee angle. I hope to do both to my /7 soon. Shouldn't cost more than $500 for the entirely reversible modifications.
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Old 01-27-2013, 08:08 PM   #21
gatorjos OP
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Well good news -- I have located the owner, and he wants $500 for the bike. It is really quite crusty and not running, so I think I will offer him less. He does have the title and registered it non-op, so there shouldn't be back fees. He said it was running four years ago, and ran strong then, but he started rebuilding the carbs, and never quite finished the projects.

Do these Bing carbs rebuild pretty well, or do people usually get new ones?
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Old 01-27-2013, 10:12 PM   #22
Wirespokes
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Location: Jackson's Bottom Oregon
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The bings are easy to rebuild. Usually they just need cleaning, new orings, and maybe choke gaskets. Possibly needle jets and needles if they're 30 or 40K old.
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