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Old 01-23-2013, 11:00 AM   #466
burmbuster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DropinParts View Post
I'm trying to decipher from all the information on the forum which racks actually hug the Tiger 800XC the best. I do have a Leo Vince pipe and I don't want to dork-up the rear end with side cases that stick out too far.
I'm kind of wide open on which side cases to buy. I do like the look of the Hepko Becker Xplorer's and the Givi Trekers. But, I'm also looking at the Caribou Pelicans as well.

Has anyone actually figured this out?
If your main concern is keeping the back of the bike as narrow as possible and you want hard cases, I don't know any slimmer than the Pelican Cases. Don't know about the racks.
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Old 01-23-2013, 01:19 PM   #467
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DropinParts View Post
I'm trying to decipher from all the information on the forum which racks actually hug the Tiger 800XC the best. I do have a Leo Vince pipe and I don't want to dork-up the rear end with side cases that stick out too far.
I'm kind of wide open on which side cases to buy. I do like the look of the Hepko Becker Xplorer's and the Givi Trekers. But, I'm also looking at the Caribou Pelicans as well.

Has anyone actually figured this out?
That's a bit of a loaded question. Jesse Luggage has the closest fitting racks. But I'm not sure that after installing the bags that they are still the closest fitting set up. All of the bags will be different. There are 10 different Caribou sizes so it depends what you want... You can look through all of the manufactures and figure out the total dimensions or contact them directly. I have done this before. Or figure out how far the racks stick out then take the dimensions of the luggage then do the math. I know Happy Trail has their dimension in their pictures...

http://www.happy-trail.com/ZoomImage...0-926e1b3f2cad

http://www.jesseluggage.com/triumph.html (dimension posted right on their website.)

After going to the caribou site they post all of their dimensions too.
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Old 01-23-2013, 01:41 PM   #468
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DropinParts View Post
I'm trying to decipher from all the information on the forum which racks actually hug the Tiger 800XC the best. I do have a Leo Vince pipe and I don't want to dork-up the rear end with side cases that stick out too far.
I'm kind of wide open on which side cases to buy. I do like the look of the Hepko Becker Xplorer's and the Givi Trekers. But, I'm also looking at the Caribou Pelicans as well.

Has anyone actually figured this out?
I can't speak for all the racks, but I can't imagine any rack getting any closer on the right side with a stock pipe than the Givi racks. Mine is so close that I sometimes get vibration between the pipe heat guard and the rack. I have some pics in this thread of my set up. I bought the givi business cases cases for the side. For road work, they should do the job. Wouldn't do much offroading with them though.

There are some racks that interfere with the Leo pipe. Can't remember which ones though. There's also some racks that use a different pipe to pull the right side in tighter - can't remember the names of those either and not sure if they would work with a Leo pipe.

My setup:
http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....&postcount=201
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Old 01-23-2013, 01:44 PM   #469
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Originally Posted by fbj913 View Post
That's a bit of a loaded question. Jesse Luggage has the closest fitting racks. But I'm not sure that after installing the bags that they are still the closest fitting set up.
Note that Jesse gives the dimensions that you can get, not the ones you're getting with the OEM exhaust. The racks come with spacers roughly 1 inch long to clear the right hand OEM exhaust, you can remove the spacers if you use a smaller aftermarket silencer.

I have the 10" Odyssey cases and the overall width with OEM silencer is around 97cm if I recall correctly. You can get to somewhere around 94.5cm or so.

As I got them right before I had to take a forced break from riding, I don't have much day to day experience, but from what I have seen I would not buy them again, although that is for reasons that might or might not apply to you:

1) They have no rear cross-brace, so the force of a fall has to be completely handled on the side that is touching the ground. Doesn't make for a very robust mounting system.

2) The racks are attached to the bike with fairly soft flat steel parts, they will bent easily in a tip over, but can likely also be straightened out easily.

3) The cases can be opened fairly easily without tools, even when locked if you know how.

4) The usable volume is very likely not the 105L they claim on the website, I haven't measured it, but the Adventure cases I had on my F800GS offered about just as much and they were slightly under 80L. You might get about 90L usable volume out of the Jesses.

5) They are wide and heavy. This whole setup is about 15cm wider than what I had on my R1200GS and I don't like that fact very much. Though it has to be seen how they perform on trips.

6) I prefer to use bag liners, which is hard with the odd shape of the Jesse cases.


Overall I think they are good cases and a few modifications would make them very good (1" less width per case, safer locking mechanism, cross brace on the rack), but so far I haven't seen Jesse Luggage taking steps in making these changes.

If I had to do it all over again, I'd just take the plunge and get Metal Mule 31L balanced setup. Would be better for my usage.

What I do think is that the racks make a great base for throw over luggage, like a Giant Loop bag. Not that I think I would buy a Giant Loop bag until it's at least 25% cheaper and fully seam sealed, though.
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Old 01-23-2013, 02:11 PM   #470
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cug View Post
Note that Jesse gives the dimensions that you can get, not the ones you're getting with the OEM exhaust. The racks come with spacers roughly 1 inch long to clear the right hand OEM exhaust, you can remove the spacers if you use a smaller aftermarket silencer.

I have the 10" Odyssey cases and the overall width with OEM silencer is around 97cm if I recall correctly. You can get to somewhere around 94.5cm or so.

As I got them right before I had to take a forced break from riding, I don't have much day to day experience, but from what I have seen I would not buy them again, although that is for reasons that might or might not apply to you:

1) They have no rear cross-brace, so the force of a fall has to be completely handled on the side that is touching the ground. Doesn't make for a very robust mounting system.

2) The racks are attached to the bike with fairly soft flat steel parts, they will bent easily in a tip over, but can likely also be straightened out easily.

3) The cases can be opened fairly easily without tools, even when locked if you know how.

4) The usable volume is very likely not the 105L they claim on the website, I haven't measured it, but the Adventure cases I had on my F800GS offered about just as much and they were slightly under 80L. You might get about 90L usable volume out of the Jesses.

5) They are wide and heavy. This whole setup is about 15cm wider than what I had on my R1200GS and I don't like that fact very much. Though it has to be seen how they perform on trips.

6) I prefer to use bag liners, which is hard with the odd shape of the Jesse cases.


Overall I think they are good cases and a few modifications would make them very good (1" less width per case, safer locking mechanism, cross brace on the rack), but so far I haven't seen Jesse Luggage taking steps in making these changes.

If I had to do it all over again, I'd just take the plunge and get Metal Mule 31L balanced setup. Would be better for my usage.

What I do think is that the racks make a great base for throw over luggage, like a Giant Loop bag. Not that I think I would buy a Giant Loop bag until it's at least 25% cheaper and fully seam sealed, though.
Jesse Luggage is super tough. They do NOT bend easy.
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Old 01-23-2013, 03:00 PM   #471
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Originally Posted by fbj913 View Post
Jesse Luggage is super tough. They do NOT bend easy.
I'm talking about the frames, not the cases. And believe me - they do bent. I know that they do.
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Old 01-23-2013, 04:06 PM   #472
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DropinParts View Post
I'm trying to decipher from all the information on the forum which racks actually hug the Tiger 800XC the best. I do have a Leo Vince pipe and I don't want to dork-up the rear end with side cases that stick out too far.
I'm kind of wide open on which side cases to buy. I do like the look of the Hepko Becker Xplorer's and the Givi Trekers. But, I'm also looking at the Caribou Pelicans as well.

Has anyone actually figured this out?
Do you primarily ride some dirt or all road?

All of the panniers are wide. The muffler is wide, so they all stick out. It's just a matter of how extreme they stick out. Generally they're all in the high-30's inches wide.


Quote:
Originally Posted by elan
There are some racks that interfere with the Leo pipe. Can't remember which ones though. There's also some racks that use a different pipe to pull the right side in tighter - can't remember the names of those either and not sure if they would work with a Leo pipe.
That's the happy trails rack. The right front attach point is exactly where the muffler headpipe passes and the Leo is just enough larger in diameter that it won't fit.

I wrote them about this and they acted all concerned and shit and then just blew me off and ignored it. They also stick way out on the left side, the same distance as the right but it's just empty space on the left. I'm going to add their tool bag tray or mount a Kolpin pax there. Still does not fix the Leo can thing though. For now I'm stuck with the stocker...good thing it's decent, just a little too quiet.
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Old 01-23-2013, 08:08 PM   #473
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Originally Posted by browneye View Post
Do you primarily ride some dirt or all road?

All of the panniers are wide. The muffler is wide, so they all stick out. It's just a matter of how extreme they stick out. Generally they're all in the high-30's inches wide.




That's the happy trails rack. The right front attach point is exactly where the muffler headpipe passes and the Leo is just enough larger in diameter that it won't fit.

I wrote them about this and they acted all concerned and shit and then just blew me off and ignored it. They also stick way out on the left side, the same distance as the right but it's just empty space on the left. I'm going to add their tool bag tray or mount a Kolpin pax there. Still does not fix the Leo can thing though. For now I'm stuck with the stocker...good thing it's decent, just a little too quiet.

Keep it in 3rd...that seems to fix the "too quiet" part of the stock exhaust...
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Old 01-23-2013, 08:17 PM   #474
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I am now looking to try the 15 tooth front sprocket. Not worried about gas mileage or 500 rpms. I want a little more low speed control without feathering the clutch. Only problem is I believe I may have to change out the drive chain as well. I guess I will order one up and see how it goes.
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Old 01-23-2013, 09:12 PM   #475
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Originally Posted by burmbuster View Post
I am now looking to try the 15 tooth front sprocket. Not worried about gas mileage or 500 rpms. I want a little more low speed control without feathering the clutch. Only problem is I believe I may have to change out the drive chain as well.
The 15T made a huge difference in the slow dirt stuff. I lost 3-5 mph but the roll on pass is oh so easy. 7500 miles with the stock chain....no visible wear. Add the Leo Vince and the ARROW map
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Old 01-23-2013, 09:24 PM   #476
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DropinParts View Post
I'm trying to decipher from all the information on the forum which racks actually hug the Tiger 800XC the best. I do have a Leo Vince pipe and I don't want to dork-up the rear end with side cases that stick out too far.
I'm kind of wide open on which side cases to buy. I do like the look of the Hepko Becker Xplorer's and the Givi Trekers. But, I'm also looking at the Caribou Pelicans as well.

Has anyone actually figured this out?
After reading the various threads and reviewing a bunch of pics, I'm going to go with the Wolfman racks. I have the LV carbon.
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Old 01-23-2013, 10:43 PM   #477
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PDM60 Installation in a Tiger 800

Well the weather has been crap and a few weeks ago I decided it was time to clean up the battery and all the connections to it. I was also going to make a couple of changes under the seats to open up some space. I have garnered information from other inmates' project postings, so I though it was time to pay it forward. So here goes…

The new equipment-



The PDM60 from Rowe Electronics purchased from Rocketmoto.com. The PDM60 is a power distribution module (PDM) that has 6 outputs and can handle up to 60 amps. Some of its awesome features are that it is completely waterproof and can be mounted anywhere. It uses solid state “fuses” for lack of a better term, so no more hard fuses to carry or search for. If you trip a circuit, you shut off the power and it resets itself. Hopefully you find the cause of the trip and are happily down the road.

Another great feature is that each circuit is individually programmable for how many amps you want it to be (from 1-15). Along with that, there are options to have each circuit come on when the PDM60 gets powered up, they can be constant on, or be triggered by a separate switch. The only drawback is that the units are not user programmable. I wanted to do a bunch of playing around in my installation so I called Rowe. After some negotiation, I ended up becoming a PDM60 programmer for these units, so if you buy one and want something different than the stock programming, PM me and I’ll get you hooked up. I'’m up in the Pacific Northwest.

Finally, each circuit can be set to have a delayed shutoff if you want. That way after your ignition is off, you can have heavy amperage draw items like heated gear or lights turned off, but you can let your GPS have power for a few minutes so you can program it or whatever.

Just so everyone knows, I have no personal connection to Rowe Electronics or Rocketmoto. I’'m just posting this to share my project and in order to program my unit, I needed some help from Rowe, which ended up with me being a programmer. Also, I have ordered from Rocketmoto numerous times and their service has been awesome. Customer service is number one to keep me returning places.

For the full details on this bad boy, check out the Rowe website at www.rowe-electronics.com. They explain it all.

OK now to clean up the bike. I hated the U-lock formings under the seat since the took up valuable real estate. Out came Mr. Utility Knife and I had this. I still had yet to remove the rear mounts but they eventually were cut out.





Just a little sandpaper when I was done smoothed it right out although it was not too pretty. Now to remove the rear “rack” and access the greatest little nugget under the seat… A big storage space yet to be tapped!!!



In the photo, I have removed the rear brake light since I was installing one of my rear LED brake light upgrades and I wanted all the open room. I also unplugged the turn signals to get the wires out of the way and took the opportunity to refill the blinker fluid.

I needed to find a suitable place to install the PDM60. My criteria were that I wanted to be able to see the LED display on the front of it for troubleshooting but I didn’'t want to take up any prime real estate with it. Even at 2”x3”x1”, that is a chunk of space under the seat.

I spent a couple of days and more than a handful of gin & tonics pondering the where’ and how’ of a good location. I was also unwilling to relocate any of the bike’s components. I’'ll spare you the lengthy process but I’'m out of gin now.

The PDM60 has mounting ears on it but they were just too wide to fit it into a couple of spaces I liked. Finally I located a spot but it needed a bit of modification to the unit. The PDM60 is potted into a shell and the only thing in the rear, other than the wires coming out, is the programming port. My solution resolved my mounting issue and protected the port.



The dimensions within a tiny lip in the back of the shell are exactly 2” x 3”. Went to my local plastics cutter and had a piece of black ABS cut which fit perfectly. Sorry, no photo. OK now how to install it so I can take it out at a later date in case I need to change the programming. Into the wife’'s Craft Room (capitalized since it is a proper noun) and poke around. Hot glue gun…PERFECT!

First I took a blade to the mounting tabs and cut them off. Notice they are missing in the photo. Then I finished the programming and set in the ABS plate and ran a super thin line of hot glue along the seam. Yep I let it cool and was able to remove it by rubbing it off so I know it worked. Redo the glue and I was done.

Mounting was accomplished with 3M dual sided foam body moulding tape. Strong stuff but removable when necessary. Here it is:



My plan was to run any wires that had to come from the front of the bike (battery box) along the sides of the tray where the factory harness runs. All the power connections would be made and tucked in where the PDM60 was mounted.

Next dilemma. I wanted to make the PDM60 removable in case I needed to reprogram it since it cannot be connected to its circuits during programming. I also wanted to be able to unplug any particular component should I need to troubleshoot something on the road. Answer- AMP waterproof connectors.

I should mention the PDM60 only has a single ground wire and its purpose is just to complete the PDM60 circuit so it can operate. Any component you attach gets its power lead from the PDM60 and is grounded to the battery/frame. More on the ground side later. The PDM60 also needs a trigger wire to activate it. I did not want to splice into the factory harness, so I rewired one of the connectors on my add on LED brake light and gave it a pigtail trigger lead. I ran the trigger lead and a ground lead into another connector, which was mated to the bike ground and PMD60 trigger lead.

My current programming includes the following:

Circuit #1 – 1 amp for the Zumo GPS
Circuit #2 – 1 amp for a USB charging port.
Circuit #3 – 15 amps for rider heated gear.
Circuit #4 – Will soon be for the passenger heated gear
Circuit #5 – unused at this time
Circuit #6 – unused at this time

I have factory heated grips and fog lights so no need for them to run from the PDM60 although it would have been nice to make them fuse less. It is possible to route the feed from an additional circuit on the PDM60 into the factory fuse block and bypass the fuse so the PDM60 does the work but I’m not there yet.

Here is a picture of the mounting location of the USB port. It provide 2.1 amps and will charge iPhone, iPod, iPad, Android, etc with only a few exceptions. The plug that goes into it waterproofs the port against full water wash down (IP64 standard), so enough for road spray.

I wanted the USB port so when I am riding I can plug my iPhone in so it is fully charged. My iPhone and Zumo both Bluetooth to my Sena, so when I land somewhere, I unplug the phone and its all gassed up.



I ran the GPS power wire and another ground down the right side of the bike and the PDM60 power wire, USB port and heated gear wires down the left side of the bike. All the wires that were run were encased in an anti-abrasion sleeve.





And here is the back end. The big black connectors are the positive lead from the PDM60 and a ground lead. Back to the ground issue. On the right side of the bike, right out from where the tip over sensor is mounted, there is a 6mm bolt with a washer that is used to secure the under seat tray. I removed that bolt and replaced it with a 6 x 30mm stud. I screwed the stud in about 15mm and then put the washer back with a nut, locking it down. That left me with a short stud to ground.



I ran a 10ga wire with soldered lugs from the battery negative to the stud and then put ground lugs on the wires from each of the watertight connectors for each circuit. Finally I spun a locknut on the end and tightened it down. You can see the stud in the above picture, just to the rear of the seat lock cross member on the left side.

I just looped the connectors and their wires into a group and zip-tied them to the end of the grab handle. Then after the “rack” cover is on, I can easily see the lights through the slots in the cover or when the rear seat is off.



Tomorrow I hope to try out the heated gear.
p3

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Old 01-23-2013, 11:26 PM   #478
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After reading the various threads and reviewing a bunch of pics, I'm going to go with the Wolfman racks. I have the LV carbon.
In hindsight, that's what I would do. They now have a mounting system to fasten hard boxes to their racks as well. I don't think you can go wrong. They look great and work great, as long as they are large enough for your gear. I'm waiting patiently for these new larger bags to be introduced.
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Old 01-24-2013, 12:29 AM   #479
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Originally Posted by elan View Post
There's also some racks that use a different pipe to pull the right side in tighter - can't remember the names of those either and not sure if they would work with a Leo pipe.
I'm assuming you're talking about the Metal Mule racks. You can purchase the exhaust directly from them, or online separately. I think it's a Scorpion IIRC. They seem very very nice, but you will pay the price.

I am in the same position as DropinParts. I purchased the bike used and it came w/ an Arrow pipe. Still searching for narrow racks.

Does anyone have the width of the Wolfman racks with no luggage?
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Old 01-24-2013, 05:30 AM   #480
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wolf man racks

22" without bags, they seem to be made well but haven't seen the others. I like the fact that they don't mount to the pilon pegs and have a x-over brace.
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