F8GS aftermarket headers......

[Petzl]

Originally Posted by pkbinder

If you don't mind me asking, how much does porcelain coating cost generally?

Mine cost me $75.00, and so far has held up great. Sand blasted and coated inside and out. It was done by a Jet Hot dealer.

[ebrabaek]

Originally Posted by Gaspare

@ebrabaek: pls see here (posts 8,9,12 & 21) http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...ghlight=quat-d

Regarding:


I do confirm there's no top end loss with a more open silencer, but actually with this configuration you'll lose some low end snap.
Careful: not torque, but only in "throttle reply", that's going to be smoother.
...all this with Quat-D silencer, that's equipped with a unic dB killer based onto a special fluid dynamics (pls see their site): very open indeed, therefore with a lower back pressure (affecting right low end snap).

The best all-around silencer is Akrapovic, anyway.

Within the solutions to re-gain top-end performance, there's the remapping itself.
I do suggest to try with OEM silencer, first: if you like that famous snap, couldn't be necessay to change silencer.
Do you like overkill? go for Akra. ...anyhow, pls consider the psychological impact on a 1.2 boxer to become humiliated by a E8GS with OEM muffler...

PS - info@qdexhaust.it ask Mr.De Liso (don't look the graph on the site: they're of another bike... )

Thank you for your explanation. I have a all Carbon Fiber silencer on it, and it will stay. My concern here, is that with such a free flowing system, it will rip through the rpm's like a racer, but loose some low end torque. All rider are different, but as I do spend a lot of time on the trail's..... That is important to me. I think Twlq, or Arrow headers at this point.

[Gaspare]

Originally Posted by ebrabaek

but as I do spend a lot of time on the trail's..... That is important to me. I think Twlq, or Arrow headers at this point.

Same approach: best with OEM silencer & QD heasers.
With Akra you'll not lose low-end snap as per the average of aftermarket mufflers.

Have a nice mod; the best is anyway remapping BMSK: with PC, if I do remember, it's impossible to play with ignition advance timing... it tells a lot and can compensate your carbon silencer.

[ebrabaek]

Originally Posted by Gaspare

Same approach: best with OEM silencer & QD heasers.
With Akra you'll not lose low-end snap as per the average of aftermarket mufflers.

Have a nice mod; the best is anyway remapping BMSK: with PC, if I do remember, it's impossible to play with ignition advance timing... it tells a lot and can compensate your carbon silencer.

I would have prefers to reflash the bmsk as well, and since the pc-5 don't offer the ignition control. Specially. But it is what it is, and I am willing to yank it all off, if it does not go well. We shal see.

[halfcabnut]

Why not gut the cat to obtain free flow? Has factory look flows straight threw ,With no bash plate problems?
Just a thought ..

[DoWorkSon]

Originally Posted by halfcabnut

Why not gut the cat to obtain free flow? Has factory look flows straight threw ,With no bash plate problems?
Just a thought ..

I thought of same thing. Remove pipes, cut cat, have shop re-weld straight pipe. Eliminate weight, gain some possible power, and a fraction of the cost

[Motorfiets]

Originally Posted by DoWorkSon

I thought of same thing. Remove pipes, cut cat, have shop re-weld straight pipe. Eliminate weight, gain some possible power, and a fraction of the cost

did the same for mine.... been running it that way since 600 miles

cut and welded it up all myself though

[ebrabaek]

Regarding cut and reweld....It is a tempting prospect, and several have done it. A few concerns I have, is that at that spot, or should I say bend, if you have any blow through with the weld, you have a chance for creating a hot spot. If I had a TIG, and knew how to use it, I most likely would do just that. Also having a sudden big chamber empty could mess with the pulses, as rapid expansion, and compression off the gasses on the other side..... That is just speculation, but I know how important good flow is through headers. I am stuck with a mig, and a stick. I dont trust anyone to do a good enough weld.... Second thought, I do have one guy in mind in socal, who I does some Carbon work for...... Hmmmmm..... Now ya got me thinking.....

[Gaspare]

It's hard to believe you haven't the chance to reflash... after all it's the same ECU of BMW cars.
Here http://f800riders.org/forum/showthre...ina-F800/page8 there's a friend who reflashed (by himself) via BDM port his 650GS: pls look @ post #383.
Red is OEM; light blue is modified IAT and blue is remapped.
Reflashing is surely the best smiles-per-buck option to gain performance: you have the convenience to investigate better to go thru this solution.

Originally Posted by ebrabaek

I am willing to yank it all off, if it does not go well.

No worries, then: you'll be anyway satisfied.

[ebrabaek]

Originally Posted by Gaspare

It's hard to believe you haven't the chance to reflash... after all it's the same ECU of BMW cars.
Here http://f800riders.org/forum/showthre...ina-F800/page8 there's a friend who reflashed (by himself) via BDM port his 650GS: pls look @ post #383.
Red is OEM; light blue is modified IAT and blue is remapped.
Reflashing is surely the best smiles-per-buck option to gain performance: you have the convenience to investigate better to go thru this solution.



No worries, then: you'll be anyway satisfied.

I am clueless as of how to reflash the ecu. Well, sort of. But for me that is not an option. I would prefer that over inserting another chip in the middle, but I don't think anyone has done it successfully in this country, and there are a whole lot smarter people here, than I am..... So I will leave that stone unturned.....

[toro618]

Originally Posted by ebrabaek

Regarding cut and reweld....It is a tempting prospect, and several have done it. A few concerns I have, is that at that spot, or should I say bend, if you have any blow through with the weld, you have a chance for creating a hot spot. If I had a TIG, and knew how to use it, I most likely would do just that. Also having a sudden big chamber empty could mess with the pulses, as rapid expansion, and compression off the gasses on the other side..... That is just speculation, but I know how important good flow is through headers. I am stuck with a mig, and a stick. I dont trust anyone to do a good enough weld.... Second thought, I do have one guy in mind in socal, who I does some Carbon work for...... Hmmmmm..... Now ya got me thinking.....

IMHO, you're thinking way too much.

Just cut it


Gut it


Reweld it and enjoy whatever performance gain it provides.

[Gaspare]

Originally Posted by ebrabaek

I don't think anyone has done it successfully in this country, and there are a whole lot smarter people here, than I am.....

No doubt there're experts over there... anyway, even for cars, most of workshops are used to send .ori files to specialized engineering studies to manipulate the maps.
Mainly is matter of experience... and availability of a bench to build up this experience.

Then, in a month time I'll remap mine, and I'll tell how it is, with all the available details onto procedure...

Then part II: you're right about the RAM effect... it's not speculation.

[Trout]

I'm running the TWALCOM/QD headers with ADV-spec crash bars & skid plate. Skidplate had to be modified to fit. Search my username for more info.

[jttele]

Originally Posted by toro618

IMHO, you're thinking way too much.



Gut it


Reweld it and enjoy whatever performance gain it provides.

This is probably a crazy idea, but what's the composition of the material inside the cat? Would there be any way to go in thru the end of the pipe with a borescope and something like a four prong spring loaded wire pickup tool and pluck out a channel thru the cat? I'm guessing it's probably too dense and or rigid for that, but don't know. Possibly a dremel flex shaft tool might also be an option?

[toro618]

Originally Posted by jttele

This is probably a crazy idea, but what's the composition of the material inside the cat? Would there be any way to go in thru the end of the pipe with a borescope and something like a four prong spring loaded wire pickup tool and pluck out a channel thru the cat? I'm guessing it's probably too dense and or rigid for that, but don't know. Possibly a dremel flex shaft tool might also be an option?

I think the only way to perform a clean job is open it up. The stuff is way too rigid for any type of a flexible tool.