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Old 01-23-2013, 06:17 PM   #91
Kokopelli OP
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I've finally started to clean my gear and give Basil a wash. He is filthy and short of pulling everything apart, cannot be cleaned properly. Once he's clean, he'll have an oil, filter and air filter change.



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Old 01-23-2013, 08:12 PM   #92
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Much better, but not good considering the time I've spent on it. No water in the engine oil or gear box from what I could tell. But the final drive has some in it. I pulled about 30cc of contaminated oil out with a syringe. Once warmed up, I'll probably change all the oils again. I've just put a new oil filter in before I left for the ride. I wonder if I can leave that?

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Old 01-24-2013, 02:07 AM   #93
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Originally Posted by Kokopelli View Post
Once warmed up, I'll probably change all the oils again. I've just put a new oil filter in before I left for the ride. I wonder if I can leave that?
I do the filter every second oil change..
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Old 01-24-2013, 09:45 AM   #94
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I do the filter every second oil change..
Yes, I have recently started doing that since reading " Guzziology" ( a good practical book). He describes the oil system as 'the sewer' .....I've always thought of it as the blood supply but it both really. He said that the filter does not need to be changed each time as it catches large particles and the smaller ones just keep on circulating in the oil.
I was down at Supercheap yesterday and picked up some Castrol 4T motorcycle oil, usually I use GTX or any cheap one as there is no clutch to worry about....but now I worry about lack of some substance that flat cam followers need and it not always there.
On a Norton forum some of them use diesel oil as it exceeds the specs of the petrol ones.

opps....as you were.

On cleaning, avoid using a water blaster near any bearings as water gets in and stuffs them....common on dirt bikes, bearing shops love waterblasters.....I suggested to the local one they should give them away to customers....
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Old 01-24-2013, 10:00 AM   #95
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Yes, I have recently started doing that since reading " Guzziology" ( a good practical book). He describes the oil system as 'the sewer' .....I've always thought of it as the blood supply but it both really. He said that the filter does not need to be changed each time as it catches large particles and the smaller ones just keep on circulating in the oil.
I was down at Supercheap yesterday and picked up some Castrol 4T motorcycle oil, usually I use GTX or any cheap one as there is no clutch to worry about....but now I worry about lack of some substance that flat cam followers need and it not always there.
Hahaha, you'e read another oil thread :-). I saw that, too. I've been using GTX and other cheap 20w50 oil for years. The 1150 does not seem to mind. Did those Guzzi even have an oil filter. I thought they'd used some sort of mesh :-).

I think I'll leave the filter this time, only because I don't have one handy. I'll change at 5000km next time, because Basil only does rides with at least a gravel component.
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Old 01-24-2013, 12:15 PM   #96
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Originally Posted by Voltaire View Post
Yes, I have recently started doing that since reading " Guzziology" ( a good practical book). He describes the oil system as 'the sewer' .....I've always thought of it as the blood supply but it both really. He said that the filter does not need to be changed each time as it catches large particles and the smaller ones just keep on circulating in the oil.
I was down at Supercheap yesterday and picked up some Castrol 4T motorcycle oil, usually I use GTX or any cheap one as there is no clutch to worry about....but now I worry about lack of some substance that flat cam followers need and it not always there.
On a Norton forum some of them use diesel oil as it exceeds the specs of the petrol ones.

opps....as you were.

On cleaning, avoid using a water blaster near any bearings as water gets in and stuffs them....common on dirt bikes, bearing shops love waterblasters.....I suggested to the local one they should give them away to customers....
Its zinc that is being reduced as it messes with catalytic converters and DPF filters on diesels. Be careful with choosing a diesel oil because oil manufacturers are now reducing zinc in them too so they can be used in DPF and non DPF applications. DPF = Diesel Particulate Filter.
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Old 01-24-2013, 12:52 PM   #97
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On cleaning, avoid using a water blaster near any bearings as water gets in and stuffs them....common on dirt bikes, bearing shops love waterblasters.....I suggested to the local one they should give them away to customers....
This is Basil you are talking about. He does not go near a water blaster. Sponge bath only, at oil temperature.
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Old 01-24-2013, 07:15 PM   #98
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I am in the process of fitting a pair of new front indicators to Basil. Why? Well, the HH-Racetech cartridges are not compatible with the indicator stalk mounts. No biggie, I found some on Trade me, no expense spared and really quite cheap.



I knew I might have trouble with the flash rate and indeed I do, or maybe Basil is just excited about having new parts fitted, who knows? Anyway, electrical stuff is not something I like to think about, because it makes my head hurt. Do you guys have any suggestion of the size resistor I might need, to slow the flash rate down? Or should I just buy a handful and experiment?

Hmm, looking at that picture, I'll need to paint those brackets black.
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Old 01-24-2013, 07:42 PM   #99
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Replacing front & back, or just the front? This will work if you replace just the front. The resisters get too hot to touch if they are left on, so you need a location in the breeze.

There is another way that may work, which involves cutting a trace in the flasher circuit board. Here you go. I haven't explored this link properly yet to see if the R100 flasher unit is the same. When I have time to find this & check, this second option would be preferable. This works on R1100 & R1150 GS's

Scott can help you tonight. Tag, you're it...
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Old 01-24-2013, 08:12 PM   #100
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Thanks for that, I am starting to get my head around it. I'll buy two 10ohm resistors and wire them across the cables on each side, maybe they can live under the top of the triple clamp. Maybe a bit of shrink wrap to go with it. Nothing is ever straightforward.

I've done a bit of research on "cutting the trace" and came across this I don't know if the flasher units are the same for the R80 and the 1150. Maybe it's just safer to go with a resistor.
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Old 01-25-2013, 01:34 AM   #101
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Sorry for causing you to get Basil a bit dirty. Looks like he is much better loved than my EXC (still grubby in the shed).

About the flasher - can you get a non mechanical flasher (there is a better name than this but I can't recall it at the moment). Repco sells them when I was looking for one a few years back. They flash at the same rate regardless of load i.e. bulb wattage.

Cheers R
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Old 01-25-2013, 10:55 AM   #102
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I put LED indicators on my Norton and used an LED flasher unit. As an electrician I can't bring myself to improve the lighting with leds and go for a crap workaround like resistors.....yuk.
If the BMW flasher is like most its a small box with three prongs, 12volts, load and idiot lights.
Supercheap have them for about $40, any will do as long as its 0 02amps to 20.
I bought some generic ones on AU ebay for $12 AU each.
I have a spare one if you want to try it.....hmmm thinking of a run up SH 16 tomorrow morning early if that works.
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Old 01-25-2013, 11:06 AM   #103
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Sorry for causing you to get Basil a bit dirty. Looks like he is much better loved than my EXC (still grubby in the shed).

About the flasher - can you get a non mechanical flasher (there is a better name than this but I can't recall it at the moment). Repco sells them when I was looking for one a few years back. They flash at the same rate regardless of load i.e. bulb wattage.

Cheers R
I will have a look, thanks for that. Also, thank you very much for a great ride. The scenery was everything I hoped it would be and more. Basil is wearing his sticker with pride.

I had been skeptical at first, whether I would be able to keep my concentration up for a 12-15 ride. But with all the buzz and the despite the little sleep, I was still going well at the end of the day. I wish I was closer, though. The two days down and two days back were harder than the actual ride, sealed roads will do that.

Hopefully I can do another one, one day.
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Old 01-25-2013, 11:08 AM   #104
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Originally Posted by Voltaire View Post
I put LED indicators on my Norton and used an LED flasher unit. As an electrician I can't bring myself to improve the lighting with leds and go for a crap workaround like resistors.....yuk.
If the BMW flasher is like most its a small box with three prongs, 12volts, load and idiot lights.
Supercheap have them for about $40, any will do as long as its 0 02amps to 20.
I bought some generic ones on AU ebay for $12 AU each.
I have a spare one if you want to try it.....hmmm thinking of a run up SH 16 tomorrow morning early if that works.
I'll pm you my address. In case you want to pop in.
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Old 01-25-2013, 11:45 AM   #105
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The flasher unit on the r80gs is a ridiculous affair. On Schmidt all the individual wires ran back to the flasher unit & the individual switch wires too. On the left is the stock unit. On the right what the japanese have found to be effective



I was going to run the wires to behind the exhaust & mount the resistors there out of the way but ended up rewiring it & using a 3 prong universal unit.
good luck with it.
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