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01-14-2013, 04:03 PM
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#1171 |
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Beef = Packed Vegetables
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This thread is absolutely fantastic ....
![]() Really fun to watch ... Paul Jr 8
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KTM690r 2011 |
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01-16-2013, 01:18 PM
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#1172 |
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Adventurer
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Germany
Oddometer: 36
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Thanks for fotos. I will write you an PM in short time.
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01-19-2013, 09:01 PM
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#1173 | ||
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Reforming Neandertal
Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Niwot
Oddometer: 869
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I posted this over in the XCW thread in Thumpers, but it probably belongs here more,
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01-21-2013, 08:10 AM
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#1174 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Mar 2009
Location: Greece
Oddometer: 456
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Excellent design Paul,
The plastic shear bolt is a nice idea. good job that half the tower stays in place... It can be hard to do work while trying to keep the thing in one place before it fells apart taking some cables on its way down... Looking forward to seeing the tests !! D.
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Aurora Rally Equipment - www.aurora-rally.com |
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01-22-2013, 08:21 AM
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#1175 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Aug 2011
Location: NW UK
Oddometer: 197
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Looks great Paul, one question though, why go to the trouble and expense of a billet mould for a plastic fairing when they could easily be beautifully made in composite from an epoxy mould?
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01-22-2013, 11:54 AM
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#1176 | |
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Reforming Neandertal
Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Niwot
Oddometer: 869
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There are pluses a minus's to any method, I find the composite route messy, dusty and toxic, way too much touch labor for each copy. With a plastic injection mold, they can shoot hundreds in a day, that are more consistent, durable and less prone to vibration or fatigue, easily and inexpensively replaceable. Once a composite part is damaged the time and effort to repair it right is pretty high, as long as you don't crash a dirt bike, you're fine, but a plastic part will spring right back in the same impact a composite would be destroyed. But by far the main reason is that I'm a toolmaker and that allows me to offer a decent part at a decent price. |
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01-22-2013, 11:59 AM
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#1177 | |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Mar 2009
Location: Greece
Oddometer: 456
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I find the plastic a very good idea, especially in the fairing use. It is not like this part needs to be neither from composite nor from AL or SS or anything similar. I mean, don't get me wrong, I love CF and Kevlar as much as the next guy but for this use I think plastic is the way to go. The elasticity of these things is amazing...
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![]() ![]() Get ready for some roadbook parts in the near future ![]()
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Aurora Rally Equipment - www.aurora-rally.com |
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01-22-2013, 01:08 PM
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#1178 |
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Safari Scramble!!!!!
Joined: Jul 2004
Location: sanity?
Oddometer: 3,226
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The cost of the plastic piece is all up front cost in making the mold. After that you can churn out hundreds of them on a plastic injection molding machine. the composite one is cheaper than an injection mold but the overall cost never goes down by much because each one produced is fairly labor intensive.
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Seth S My intuition nearly makes up for my lack of good judgement. Just installed my new trolling motorHusaberg tank for sale: HERE |
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01-22-2013, 01:20 PM
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#1179 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2010
Location: Munich
Oddometer: 164
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Look absolutetly awesome.
I'd love to have such posibilities in my shop ![]() But one thing puzzles me. Why would you want to put the Nav-Tower on your fork and not the frame? It's just additional weight you have to steer with your arms. Is this some kind of steering-damper ->more weight, less prone to wobble? Personaly I'd hate to have that thing on my fork. Just put it on the frame.... Please enlight me ![]() Matti |
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01-22-2013, 02:02 PM
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#1180 | |
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Cholla Magnet
Joined: Aug 2005
Location: Grand Junction, CO
Oddometer: 1,138
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Quote:
Frame mounted option......
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01-22-2013, 03:16 PM
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#1181 | |
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Guns are for pussies
Joined: Aug 2004
Location: Burlingtron,VT
Oddometer: 13,783
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Quote:
I've ridden two hare scrambles with one of Paul's triple clamp mounted nav towers and It didn't bother me at all weight wise. It's not that heavy honestly. Great work Paul, it's the IKEA Nav tower
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Just say'IN |
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01-22-2013, 03:30 PM
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#1182 | |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Jan 2011
Location: Norco California
Oddometer: 1,321
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Quote:
the best part about it is at night when you turn the light is where the wheel is pointed not just off in to space!
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01-24-2013, 06:32 PM
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#1183 |
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Reforming Neandertal
Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Niwot
Oddometer: 869
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Got it all together today and went for a ride down the freeway, after one abort to tighten down everything I forgot to, I got up to 85 with the thing and it feels pretty good, not much of a test but it was great to get it all together.
![]() ![]() Moved the horn and hi beam to the throttle side to open up room for a future roadbook combo switch, ![]() Nothing bolts to the outside of this plate so I don't have to disconnect anything to get at the insides, ![]() Still need to find a clean way of attaching the horn and connectors to the side plates, but picked up a neat little fuse holder. ![]() Just the 2 squadrons and the roadbook/USB circuits, need some smaller fuses,
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01-24-2013, 07:22 PM
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#1184 |
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Rhymes with below
Joined: Feb 2005
Location: SLC, UT
Oddometer: 745
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I've also clocked some serious off-road miles with Paul's fork mounted setup and I can say that unless you are racing on a single track, the weight is a non-issue. Look at many of the low budget dakar racers from the 80's and 90's and you'll see a ton of similar setups.
The frame mounted setups are better in a lot of cases, especially with full coverage plastic. I still like having the lights point where I point the bars. I still have nightmares from trying to ride my NX250 in the woods chasing some friends...it's lame light was frame mounted.
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Adventure S, 450X "It seemed like such a good idea at the time..." - Solo Baja 1000 My motorcycle adventure book-ADV Discount www.fishwrites.com |
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01-24-2013, 07:28 PM
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#1185 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Feb 2008
Location: Vancouver, B.C.
Oddometer: 111
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Fairing
Hi Paul, is that a clear cover over the lights??
Let me know when you can ship. Thanks, Richard |
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