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Old 01-25-2013, 04:44 PM   #16
mouthfulloflake
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went through mine last summer also.

I was unable to bend the U shape without kinking the hose, and did not want to pay BMW $30 for a part that would eventually fail.

I bought some hard ( steel) brake line, at auto parts store, 5/16" I think.
bent a U shape with a brake line bender, flared the ends, and used that.

Now I have a few short sections of the expensive submersible hose, all straight.

also replaced the fuel pump with a cheaper alternative.. Ill try and find the thread.

edit-found

napa or oreillys ( gates distributors) can order the hose.

I am not suggesting this site, but it gives you the part number.
http://www.frsport.com/Gates-27093-5...0_p_15937.html


http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=812985




Quote:
Originally Posted by Flys Lo View Post
Good point, just re looked at the kit, they don't include the hose. Do you happen to know that the ID (or AN size) the hose is by chance? (just so I can order it first)

Also, meant to add, did you just buy the standard Gates submersible hose and bend it to shape, or buy the original BMW hose when replacing it?
(According to your photo, and remembering the fuel lines inside, there is a sharp U-bend, I don't want to kink the hose if I just buy a foot long length and cut it to length/bend it)
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Old 01-25-2013, 07:49 PM   #17
def
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[QUOTE=Flys Lo;20574827
Any recommendations on how best to go about cleaning the tank? Last time I just tried my best to rinse it out with clean fuel. Probably should get the missaz to do it, she is much better at this cleaning shit than I [/QUOTE]

Hot water and dish washing liquid...slosh it around, empty, rinse and stick a hair dryer (low heat) in the opening to remove traces of water.

As for the wife doing it? Ask her but only after donning your full face helmet.
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Old 01-25-2013, 08:05 PM   #18
roger 04 rt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flys Lo View Post
Good point, just re looked at the kit, they don't include the hose. Do you happen to know that the ID (or AN size) the hose is by chance? (just so I can order it first)

Also, meant to add, did you just buy the standard Gates submersible hose and bend it to shape, or buy the original BMW hose when replacing it?
(According to your photo, and remembering the fuel lines inside, there is a sharp U-bend, I don't want to kink the hose if I just buy a foot long length and cut it to length/bend it)
I bought the BMW U hose and also bought the submersible from them. Also ended up using Oetiker clamps which take less space and have fewer sharp edges.
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Old 01-25-2013, 09:01 PM   #19
Flys Lo OP
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Thanks for the further responses, I forgot to mention, I am in Aus - i.e. the bike doesn't have a Charcoal cannister.

I have bought a foot of submersible line, I decided I may as well mount the fuel filter externally while I am doing this.
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Old 01-26-2013, 02:20 AM   #20
everycredit
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I must be special. I have no issues with fuel delivery, but hear a "whoosh" sound when I open my filler cap to fill up/top off.
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Old 01-26-2013, 03:05 AM   #21
MsLizVt
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Just trying to be helpful ...

Flys Lo et al, hi!

Your dilemma is exactly what mine was a two years or ago. My 1100GS would run fine until mile 122. Well it might have been a few miles either way, but that was the number that stuck in my mind. From a full tank to about that mileage the bike would run great. Then all of a sudden it would stutter, hiccup is more like it, just stop running for a few seconds. When rolling back on the throttle it would go again.

The first time it happened was on a three hour ride, a bit time critical to make it to an appointment. For the last 50 miles, it would hiccup every couple of minutes. After the appointment, the bike came apart, tank off, seat off, panniers off, just about everything, looking for wiring issues, and leaks. With all the parts and my gear strewn around the parking lot it looked like I was having a yard sale! After fiddling with everything, it all went back together, and I filled up with gas. On the ride home, at mile 122 it hiccuped! Filled the tank and all was good again.

At home everything came apart again. This time, the fuel filter was changed. The old one looked great, but a new one went on. Rode around, the bike ran fine ... until about 80 miles on a tank and going up the steep passes of the mountains here in Vermont, and it hiccuped again.

Oh, when the tank came off at home, many of the various things suggested above were done also, including putting compressed air in the vent line. There's a lesson to be learned from that. Inside the tank, near the filler is a container that one of the vent lines goes into. It's got a pin hole vent in it. At 160psi, that little 2 inch by 3 inch by 1 inch hollow unit make the loudest bang I'd heard all day, and split in half.

That came out of the tank by taking the filler off. When seeing it was split along the seam, longitudinally, my first thought was superglue or epoxy. Being in gasoline all the time, that probably wasn't a perfect idea. So in addition to epoxy, using a fingernail file, I put notches on the outside edges. Then from the days of rally cars, there was some fancy wire and spinning pliers around, that we used for wiring nuts and bolts. a wrap of that wire, tightened down with the spinney pliers, made that little hollow thing I'd blown in half, pretty secure.

Okay, back to climbing the mountain passes and the bike hiccuping. All the way up to the top, it would hic every couple of miles. On the downhill side it ran fine. After being fueled up, all was good.

Oh and trust me, I read every thread on ADV that had anything to do with fuel pumps and gas tanks. Finally, I ordered one of the Bosch 6222 pumps (off the top of my head, that might not be the correct number) that went in a 1992 Chevy Something or Other, for $50. When it arrived, carefully the soldering was done, and everything put back together.

That was two years ago, and something like 40,000 miles, not another hiccup since.

Here's what I think. One thing that I did was put a fuel pressure gauge inline. When the key came on, the fuel pressure would go up to 42pounds, maybe it was 43, but something like that. And a couple of moments later it would go back to zero. In my mind, it seemed to me that once the pressure was up, it should stay up, but it didn't. And honestly, I haven't been able to find anything that says it should stay up at 42. Shouldn't there be a check valve in the pump? Any thoughts from those in the know would be appreciated.

My belief is the pump was staying cool as long as it was in gas. When the tank got below the 122 mile level the pump was exposed to the air, and would overheat. My guess is the pump in the bike was the original one, with 80,000 something miles on it. So it served it's time.

My plan (which hasn't been done yet) was to dissect that pump to see if any brushes inside were worn way out, or there was something wrong with the windings, or a bearing was gone, or just see what was in there. Maybe it was something to do with the impeller slipping on the shaft, who knows. But from your description, it sounds just like what happened to me.

How's that for a rambling thread jacking (good story def?)? Am I making sense?

Enjoy,



Liz
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Old 01-26-2013, 05:05 AM   #22
roger 04 rt
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Hey Liz, good story. We nearby flat landers love the neat mountain passes of Vermont. To some questions and good points you made:

—The thing you blew apart is a check valve to keep fuel from running out when/if the bike tips over. Who lets that happen? ;)

—The fuel pressure will stay at around 40 PSI after a couple seconds on, even after the key is off (photo below, motor and key off).

The stock pressure for 1100s and 1150s at idle is 43.5 psi in the line going from the tank to the fuel distributor, and the return rate in the line going from the distributor back to the tank at idle is 1/2 gallon per minute. If you check both you have a good idea of the health of your fuel system. Measuring the return volume is more important than pressure since the regulators are pretty bulletin proof.

RB

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Old 01-26-2013, 05:18 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by everycredit View Post
I must be special. I have no issues with fuel delivery, but hear a "whoosh" sound when I open my filler cap to fill up/top off.
You are special, but won't be forever. Find out where your system is clogged now and you'll avoid a breakdown later.
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Old 01-26-2013, 06:01 AM   #24
Jim Moore
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Quote:
Originally Posted by everycredit View Post
I must be special. I have no issues with fuel delivery, but hear a "whoosh" sound when I open my filler cap to fill up/top off.
I highly recommend you get rid of your canister and vent the tank line to the atmosphere.
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Old 01-26-2013, 06:11 AM   #25
roger 04 rt
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I still have my canister and the system is working fine. Why do you recommend removal?
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Old 01-26-2013, 08:08 AM   #26
def
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roger 04 rt View Post
I still have my canister and the system is working fine. Why do you recommend removal?
Oh my.....The charcoal cannister thing is almost like aftermarket exhaust systems and motor oil...Heh-heh.

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Old 01-26-2013, 08:12 AM   #27
def
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mouthfulloflake View Post

I was unable to bend the U shape without kinking the hose, and did not want to pay BMW $30 for a part that would eventually fail.

I bought some hard ( steel) brake line, at auto parts store, 5/16" I think.
bent a U shape with a brake line bender, flared the ends, and used that.

Now I have a few short sections of the expensive submersible hose, all straight.
Excellent idea. I would be tempted to do this also once I go into the tank.
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Old 01-26-2013, 08:41 AM   #28
mouthfulloflake
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I cant claim the idea, someone else on here did it, and I copied the idea!

nice brake bender tool, and a 36" section of hard line was about $15, so cheaper than the bmw part, should last at least as long ( likely longer) and I got a brake tool to boot!

there was enough hard line left over to bend a few more if I can find it in my mess of a garage Ill bend you up a U and send it to you.



Quote:
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Excellent idea. I would be tempted to do this also once I go into the tank.
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Old 01-26-2013, 10:02 AM   #29
Jim Moore
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roger 04 rt View Post
I still have my canister and the system is working fine. Why do you recommend removal?
I was talking to the guy who is having tank venting problems. But hell, take yours off too. They get clogged up and cause problems eventually. And they're ugly.
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Old 01-26-2013, 06:06 PM   #30
MsLizVt
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Just curious ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by roger 04 rt View Post
Hey Liz, good story. We nearby flat landers love the neat mountain passes of Vermont. To some questions and good points you made:

—The thing you blew apart is a check valve to keep fuel from running out when/if the bike tips over. Who lets that happen? ;)

—The fuel pressure will stay at around 40 PSI after a couple seconds on, even after the key is off (photo below, motor and key off).

The stock pressure for 1100s and 1150s at idle is 43.5 psi in the line going from the tank to the fuel distributor, and the return rate in the line going from the distributor back to the tank at idle is 1/2 gallon per minute. If you check both you have a good idea of the health of your fuel system. Measuring the return volume is more important than pressure since the regulators are pretty bulletin proof.

RB



Roger, hi!

Thanks for the compliment about the story. It was Brandon Gap, going from Rochester to Brandon when the bike was hiccuping. All the way up I just kept making promises to the bike to never do anything bad to it, and wash it when we got home, as long as it got me over the top of the gap. Of course the bike did get over the top, and I didn't wash it. But with the new pump, it keeps on going. We have some pretty cool gaps/passes up here, especially Lincoln Gap on a foggy night. There's another story to go with that evenings experience too.

So you answered one of my big questions about the fuel pumps and fuel system. With the old pump, and a gauge set up, just about like you have there, when the key went on, the pressure jumped right up. But even with the key on, after a few seconds the pressure would go back to zero. So where's the check valve in the system that keeps the pressure up, in the pump?

The other question is, what could get so hot in the pump to make it malfunction when hot, brushes? bearings?

Thanks, and come on up and ride sometime. I'm in Rut-Vegas (Rutland) next to the Vermont State Fairgrounds. Send me a PM and I'll give you the GPS data.

Enjoy,


Liz
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