Rallye navigation bracket photo thread

[beechum1]

Originally Posted by BigMike40

Paul, makes sense re plastic fairing if you're doing them in numbers

that math is usually for someone that doesn't design and cut their own master. Since that's usually the bulk of the cost, and that, to Paul, is "free."

[jesusgatos]

Originally Posted by pilo

Dual Lights...

The rigid mount + hinge + link arm does little about making the bars feel lights (the energy that is spent is accelerating the mass back and forth, that does not change with a hinge mounted light setup). My understanding is the hinge mount was designed to take the weight of the steering head bearings and help prevent fork damage in a crash (the link is designed to yield).

Seems to me that mounting the lights on a separate pivot-point (further forward, closer to the lights/weight) should make the steering feel lighter because it reducing the distance between the lights and their pivot-point reduces the length of the arc that the lights are swinging through. Friction in the linkage might affect the way that kind of setup feels, and it might not make any noticeable difference in the end, but I'd like to know if I'm missing something here.

[beechum1]

Originally Posted by jesusgatos

Seems to me that mounting the lights on a separate pivot-point (further forward, closer to the lights/weight) should make the steering feel lighter because it reducing the distance between the lights and their pivot-point reduces the length of the arc that the lights are swinging through. Friction in the linkage might affect the way that kind of setup feels, and it might not make any noticeable difference in the end, but I'd like to know if I'm missing something here.

the lightness will come with the length of the arm radially from either pivot point and the ratio of the two lengths from the stem and the headlight pivot point.

[jesusgatos]

Right. So say with a 1:1 ratio, the lights should feel lighter, right?

[jm-2008]

Enjoying this thread and all the inmates skill and creativity.
Not wanting to hijack the thread but am interested in details on the LED lights.
Seem like a lot of clones out there and not certain where to go re price/reliability.

Would appreciate a recommendation on make model and application
Also data, re current draw, beam spread, preferred config.
Given some of the prices vendors are asking I'd hate to pick the wrong one.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions
JM-2008

[beechum1]

Originally Posted by jesusgatos

Right. So say with a 1:1 ratio, the lights should feel lighter, right?

still depends on the length of #1 and #2. And the placement of #2. Mechanical leverage.

[jesusgatos]

But 1:1 is 1:1, regardless of the length of the levers, right? The only thing I can see that matters is the distance of the lights (weight) from the pivot point. Really not trying to be argumentative. Please explain.

EDIT: I was assuming that we were talking about a simple parallelogram linkage. Just re-read what you wrote about the length of 1 and the placement of 2.

[Gany]

Originally Posted by tehdutchie

Loving this fuse box, any leads on the brand/model?

Fuse holders are metripack brand. They also sell waterproof connectors. Eastern beaver one seller of both.

[beechum1]

Seems like I could have explained a little better, but perhaps you see what I mean. if the lever, #1 & #2, is shorter or longer it will affect the leverage and at some point the lever would be too long and adversely affect the leverage because of the lever weight itself, and of course in this case, the interference with other parts.

[Gany]

Here is an interesting quote from Jake Smith of the GHR Honda team when discussing his 2011 Dakar bike and the 2013 Dakar bike:

With the Safari bike, the map roller is bolted to the cross-brace of the Twin Walls, so you do feel that extra weight through the bars. The benefit of that set-up is that it keeps the weight further back and lower, plus there's none of that pendulum motion that Dakar bikes can get with their tall nav towers. But at the 2011 Dakar, where we had all our nav gear mounted off the bars, it made the bike really fatiguing to ride. Actually, after two weeks, it was a nightmare.

Brother Todd Smith's comparison of the (Australasian) Safari bike vs Dakar bike:

The thing that struck me was that, because the Dakar bike's nav gear is all frame-mounted, there's none of that weight on the handlears. That makes it a bit nicer to ride because you get more feedback and it feels more like a motocross bike when you tip it into corners. That said, you do have all that added weight up higher on the Dakar bike, which you need to compensate for when tipping the bike into slower corners. The Safari bike takes more effort to correct the bars if you unexpectedly hit a rock, because all its nav gear is mounted on the bars. In a straight line, the bikes are both really stable and have a similar feel, and it's only when you hit the brakes that ou notice the Dakar bike transfers more weight onto the front wheel.

Quotes from Jan 2013 Transmoto magazine, some great extra info in their about their Dakar bike setup.

[Gany]

Originally Posted by godwinmt

Working on the first iteration of a tower for the WRR. Still need to add in various switches/work on packaging/lightening, but it's getting there. Looking forward to seeing how light+rigid I'll be able to make it with a bit of FEA




-Malhon

Are you planning on relocating the key barrel? I decided to leave mine in place for my WR250R, that seemed to be a big limitation on how the stem mount was designed. Something to keep in mind...

Heres some of my latest pics.
- Side plates are 8mm HDPE
- 20mm square tube & delrin spacers in between
- 20mm diameter delrin spacers for the top headlight mount.
- Bottom headlight bracket milled from 30mm delrin round bar (certainly did that the hard way) but learned something
- WR450F headlight (mask is a bit bigger than the 250R)
- brake line relocated over the mudguard
- zeta hand guard signals installed into barkbuster guards
- stock wiring plus power lead from the battery runs through a cutout on the left side plate and inbetween the two plates
Still need to sort out the electrics for the nav gear but stock wiring is connected.

[rmhrc628]

Gany that is awesome !!!!

What software do you guys all use to do the engineering pics and fea analysis ?

Can you get it online?

[Gany]

Originally Posted by tileman

Just a thought... Single centre piece is to save cutting and drilling 2 sides. However, the result of that means that everything you hang off it needs 2 pieces cut - roadbook mount, side plate attachment to the stem, stock instrument mount, fairing mount etc. About 10 pieces overall. This might result in more work overall?

Vs 2 plate design where stock instruments, roadbook, even fairing mount can be single pieces from the middle, Raid Designs style. About 6 pieces overall.

Food for thought?

[640 Armageddon]

Originally Posted by rmhrc628

Gany that is awesome !!!!

What software do you guys all use to do the engineering pics and fea analysis ?

Can you get it online?

Read back here at the very bottom
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...684282&page=56
and here
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...684282&page=57

Inventor Professional and Solidworks will allow you to do FEA but more often than not if you don't know exactly what you are doing it can screw you big time. Actually in these parts I would not worry at all as the weight load is minimal and when a crash occurs the loads are so high you can kiss the tower goodbuy ... For example Laia's tower in this dakar broke and had to carry it in her back swapping it between her teamate because it was too heavy ... Of course the load has What I am interested in at the moment as far as the Towers is concerned is how to make them collapse if they get hit by the rider, much like AntiPaul did with his first design. That was a very nice feature. As far as the other equipment is concerned you have to make them completely bulletproof. I would prefer to add 200 grams on my roadbook and make sure that is stronger that making it a featherlight unit that gets destroyed with a light touch. You know what I mean...

The subject tha Paul started with an FEA program that will give you hints about the shape, I remeber Designspace from ANSYS which would automatically remove material from the structure. Material that did not do anything as far as the loads and the supports is concerned. You would choose the percentage reduction and it would try and achieve that. Anyways... Back into the Towers ...

@ Tileman, indeed it may be easier to achieve everything with one piece in the middle. That is a great idea. Two parts will always be better as far a weight/torsional stiffness is concerned. Think of I-beams etc. I like the simplicity of it so go forward and get some pics when ready !!


@ Gany, nice ! I always like people trying new things, let us know the stability of this thing. If you push it sideways, does it give way and spring back ? Vibrations? I was thinking about desert and in general summer temps. From what I have seen the PE pipes that I have used before they get soft if you leave them in the sun and then they retain that shape when it gets cold. I am wondering if this will get softer after racing in the sun. Thoughts ?

Keep it coming boys !

[Seth S]

Originally Posted by jm-2008

Enjoying this thread and all the inmates skill and creativity.
Not wanting to hijack the thread but am interested in details on the LED lights.
Seem like a lot of clones out there and not certain where to go re price/reliability.

Would appreciate a recommendation on make model and application
Also data, re current draw, beam spread, preferred config.
Given some of the prices vendors are asking I'd hate to pick the wrong one.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions
JM-2008

The two LED products that I know of right now that are very good are the Squadron supplied by Baja Designs and the Rigid Industries lights. I am sure there are others out there but you can look at those two companies to get a feel for what they offer.