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Old 01-26-2013, 10:05 AM   #1
woodly1069 OP
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"Clocking" airhead drive shaft?

Just wondering if I need to reassemble the drive shaft from my R75/5 in any relative position? See when we had it in the press and were heating it up, it went BOOM! Knocked my buddy on to the floor and then I fell down laughing at him Problem is, I guess my dumb ass must have baked the markings right off the parts... I see that there is a small hole in the largest part of the OD on the spline connection and since there is just a taper for a press fit it can line up with anything...any thoughts?

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Old 01-26-2013, 10:55 AM   #2
Big Bamboo
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Correct, it can line up anywhere. Make sure you completely clean up the mating surfaces!
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Old 01-26-2013, 11:11 AM   #3
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Correct, it can line up anywhere. Make sure you completely clean up the mating surfaces!
...and whatever you use to clean make sure it evaporates completely. Assemble it clean and DRY.
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Old 01-26-2013, 02:42 PM   #4
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OK guys, how about brake clean? thanks a bunch!
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Old 01-26-2013, 06:47 PM   #5
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OK guys, how about brake clean? thanks a bunch!
Then wipe it down with a white spirit which evaporates completely.
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Old 01-26-2013, 06:52 PM   #6
disston
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Then wipe it down with a white spirit which evaporates completely.
What is a white spirit?
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Old 01-26-2013, 06:55 PM   #7
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MMM...moonshine!
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Old 01-26-2013, 08:12 PM   #8
Big Bamboo
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Acetone will work too
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Old 01-26-2013, 08:27 PM   #9
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What is a white spirit?
White spirit is camp stove fuel (otherwise known as white gas or naptha). It's a good solvent which evaporates cleanly. I first started using in an aircraft component shop that I worked in - it was recommended by manufacturers.
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Old 01-27-2013, 03:27 PM   #10
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If you have any of them surface preparation products, to be used "before and after sanding" to remove waxes and sillycones before painting, it is also white spirits/naphta/Coleman fuel.

Yep bought some specialized Rustoleum product before I figured it out. Well figured out that I could have used my Coleman fuel would have saved me $10.00. Only had to smell the Rusto to find out.Should have done that at the store....

Someone gave me a BMW Zippo lighter....guess what's in it? Sure ain't overpriced lighter fluid aka Naphta.
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Old 01-29-2013, 08:35 AM   #11
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OK ready to go, clean and assembled. Should l attempt to "hold" the u-joint and torque the nut in place or bolt it to the transmission first? I think bolting it up makes more sense but I don't want to damage the tranny. Of couse I would hold the drive shaft while torquing...
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Old 01-29-2013, 11:50 AM   #12
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Hmmm... iirc that nut takes a huge amount of torque, and I am not sure I would want to be torquing the u-joint at the other end... if you bolt up to tranny to stabilize and hold that end of the shaft, I would still immobilize the shaft somehow between the u-joint and the bell end...

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Old 01-29-2013, 12:09 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by woodly1069 View Post
OK ready to go, clean and assembled. Should l attempt to "hold" the u-joint and torque the nut in place or bolt it to the transmission first? I think bolting it up makes more sense but I don't want to damage the tranny. Of couse I would hold the drive shaft while torquing...
Cycle Works recommends holding the yoke that is part of the driveshaft in a vice "so that the jaws close on the flat area around the holes that the cross is in".
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Old 01-29-2013, 12:19 PM   #14
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OK, thanks guys, guess it's a good thing I haven't put it in the bike then
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Old 01-29-2013, 12:22 PM   #15
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Cycle Works recommends holding the yoke that is part of the driveshaft in a vice "so that the jaws close on the flat area around the holes that the cross is in".
Well done! Always good to learn a little something every day.... I can have a beer with a clear conscience later
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