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Old 01-25-2013, 11:16 PM   #32716
oldtrucks
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I've checked both spots, the 30 amp main is good and all of the individual fuses in the Block are fine as well
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Old 01-26-2013, 04:21 AM   #32717
DragonNester
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amtz.zero View Post
I asked this earlier but I guess no one saw my post, but can I run the stock chain if I move up to 13/46 gearing? Thanks!
Go ahead and put a 47t steel sprocket on her with a 112 link X-ring chain. It's a good dirt ratio without sacrificing the highway too much...IMO

Remember your speedometer will be way off after any final drive ratio change.
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Old 01-26-2013, 04:39 AM   #32718
1Down-5Up
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Fuel pump life

What's the most "mileage" anyone gotten out of a fuel pump?
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Old 01-26-2013, 05:29 AM   #32719
Joe Watson
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Well, it's time for me to sign out all! I hope you all got a little bit of info from my build. It will be in my signature for a while, so check it out. The WR250R went to a new home today, hopefully it gets may more good miles on her as it gave me.

Farewell.

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Old 01-26-2013, 06:51 AM   #32720
japako
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldtrucks View Post
While looking for an Ignition Hot to tap into I shorted and lost power to my ignition, headlight, tail light, brake lights, horn, and dash console. The blinkers still work and the fuel pump powers up fine. I checked all the fuses and they're all good which makes me think I did something to the Relay Assembly.

Anyone know of a way to check the Relay before I spend the $
I'm pretty sure the relay for the lights is the same as the other small relay.
Try swapping the two relays.??

You can also check the continuity of the relay.

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Old 01-26-2013, 08:03 AM   #32721
pfy50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldtrucks View Post
While looking for an Ignition Hot to tap into I shorted and lost power to my ignition, headlight, tail light, brake lights, horn, and dash console. The blinkers still work and the fuel pump powers up fine. I checked all the fuses and they're all good which makes me think I did something to the Relay Assembly.

Anyone know of a way to check the Relay before I spend the $
Oldtrucks,

Did you disconnect the battery before attempting to tap the line? If not you may have fried a diode in the Starting circuit cut-off relay. You will need a volt meter with diode test capability. It is pretty hard to fry a relay without blowing a fuse so here is the tech manual on sequence to check continuity of your relays and the final check is the diodes. The photos are numbered in sequence as found in the rear of the tech manual. Have fun.
Paul
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pfy50 screwed with this post 01-26-2013 at 01:00 PM Reason: Edited for copyright purposes
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Old 01-26-2013, 08:12 AM   #32722
oldtrucks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by japako View Post
I'm pretty sure the relay for the lights is the same as the other small relay.
Try swapping the two relays.??

You can also check the continuity of the relay.
None of the relays I found are alike, all different shapes, sizes, and connectors. The one in question has a 16 pin connector, all the others are much smaller
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Old 01-26-2013, 08:17 AM   #32723
pfy50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldtrucks View Post
None of the relays I found are alike, all different shapes, sizes, and connectors. The one in question has a 16 pin connector, all the others are much smaller
That's should be the relay. The Start circuit cut off relay and fuel pump Page 2 and 3 above
It is #11 on the wiring diagram, you should be able to see the diodes on the schematic.


If it is the Start circuit cut-off relay(#11)I believe this is the part #
Relay Assy 5VK-81950-40-00
$36.34 @ Cheapcycleparts.com http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/model...2-electrical-2
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Old 01-26-2013, 08:51 AM   #32724
oldtrucks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pfy50 View Post
Oldtrucks,

Did you disconnect the battery before attempting to tap the line? If not you may have fried a diode in the Starting circuit cut-off relay. You will need a volt meter with diode test capability. It is pretty hard to fry a relay without blowing a fuse so here is the tech manual on sequence to check continuity of your relays and the final check is the diodes. The photos are numbered in sequence as found in the rear of the tech manual. Have fun.
Paul,

Battery was in and the Key was on. I was using a test light trying to verify I had the taillight connector. Last thing I did was tell myself to not let the probe hit two posts at the same time, the rest is history
I'm in denial and was hoping it would be something simple. Thanks for the prod, looks like I'll be learning about the WR electrical system later today

Larry
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Old 01-26-2013, 09:26 AM   #32725
oldtrucks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pfy50 View Post
If it is the Start circuit cut-off relay(#11)I believe this is the part #
Relay Assy 5VK-81950-40-00
$36.34 @ Cheapcycleparts.com http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/model...2-electrical-2
That's the part I have in my hand, less the "-00" on the end. I'll feel a lot better ordering it once I test it and know it has a problem. Thanks
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Old 01-26-2013, 10:14 AM   #32726
Off Road USA
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whats the opinion on the Flathead Racing skid plate and radiator gaurd ..????
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Old 01-26-2013, 10:52 AM   #32727
sturgeon
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whats the opinion on the Flathead Racing skid plate and radiator gaurd ..????
You mean Flatland? I don't think a flathead would fit in the frame

So far so good with mine. The skid plate amplifies engine noise, but I think "they all do that".
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Old 01-26-2013, 12:26 PM   #32728
KansasBob
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Originally Posted by winchester3030 View Post
whats the opinion on the Flathead Racing skid plate and radiator gaurd ..????
Flatland racing makes all their plates and guards in Emporia Kansas. The employes running the shears, C&C machines, and welders are riders to a man. Their products are top notch, and If you have a problem they will stand behind them.

You can't go wrong with them.
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Old 01-26-2013, 12:46 PM   #32729
pfy50
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Originally Posted by oldtrucks View Post
That's the part I have in my hand, less the "-00" on the end. I'll feel a lot better ordering it once I test it and know it has a problem. Thanks
I guess you won't be making that mistake again. It's all part of the learning process.

Yeh, the last 2 (0-0) is added on for computer stock numbering or something like that as long as rest of it matches.
ps. Don't forget to follow the steps a-d starting on bottom of page 9 above.

Sent you a PM
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Old 01-26-2013, 12:55 PM   #32730
MeefZah
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Originally Posted by KansasBob View Post
Flatland racing makes all their plates and guards in Emporia Kansas. The employes running the shears, C&C machines, and welders are riders to a man. Their products are top notch, and If you have a problem they will stand behind them.

You can't go wrong with them.
Well that's cool, did not know that.
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