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Old 01-26-2013, 10:02 PM   #73246
Feelers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Indeed. A throttle throttles.

Regards,

Derek
Your command of the English language is impeccable, sir.
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Old 01-26-2013, 10:28 PM   #73247
Kommando
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Location: Spacecoaster FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazy88 View Post
So I'm attempting the beginning maintenance on my DR, and I managed to change the handlebars successfully, so go me. Although I did undo things that didn't need undoing, like the clutch and the box next to the throttle...whatevs, it still ran fine after than particular mod.

Yesterday I tackled the gas tank, and put an IMS on it. After much frustration, I found I could only' keep the thing running when the vent line from the gas cap to the ? was not on it at all, otherwise it would die as if it ran out of gas. I figured, ok, I can deal w/ this temporarily in the winter before finding a better system, and it ran fine on the round-the neighborhood test drive I took it on.

Fast forward to this morning, and I can't get the thing to stay running. It starts fine, idles ok (seems to idle fine only when throttle is fully open), and then I take it as far as the end of the driveway before it stalls out. Generally in first gear, as soon as I try to get it to move further, it just dies. There's gas in it, the tube from the petcock to whatever is 4 inches to the right of the petcock seems clamped on fine, no leakage or anything. I've tried putting the vent tube from the gas cap back on, no dice. So why in the hell is my engine dying w/in <2 min of running? I was so proud until this morning...

In short, at the moment I'm an ignorant noob and a dumb brute. HULK ANGRY

Did you thoroughly clean the new tank before installing it? There may have been a bunch of debris in it before. Now it might be blocking the petcock filters or carb inlet filter. Also, blow through the vent tube to check for obstruction.
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Old 01-26-2013, 11:44 PM   #73248
Sierra Thumper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
Did you thoroughly clean the new tank before installing it? There may have been a bunch of debris in it before. Now it might be blocking the petcock filters or carb inlet filter. Also, blow through the vent tube to check for obstruction.
Yep the IMS directions state to rinse the tank with gas before installing it to get the manufacturing debris out.
And the vent line from the gas cap shouldn't be attached to anything, it needs to vent to the atmosphere. You can stick it down the steering stem hole to get it out of the way....but leave it open. Also run the bike with the gas cap off to see if you have a cap with a bad vent diaphragm.
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Old 01-27-2013, 06:08 AM   #73249
SCExpat
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Location: Caldwell, ID
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Question Going to join the club....

Looking at a 2003 DR650 ($2300) with 15K miles and the owner has replaced the clutch. I thought that was kind of early for a clutch to wear out.....unless it had been slipped a lot or?? Searching the thread for "clutch" gives hundreds of post but....after a while I gave up and thought to take the easy way and just ask.

There is also a very clean 2002 at a dealer with 10K miles but $2700.
We just got above freezing for the first time in weeks and I am a fair weather rider so if I get one now it will just sit in the garage for a couple of months. But it is fun to hunt for a deal now and think of all the rides we will go on when it warms up.

TIA
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Old 01-27-2013, 06:25 AM   #73250
Emmbeedee
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Location: Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCExpat View Post
Looking at a 2003 DR650 ($2300) with 15K miles and the owner has replaced the clutch. I thought that was kind of early for a clutch to wear out.....unless it had been slipped a lot or??
Somebody may have put "Energy Conserving" oil in it and caused the clutch to slip, requiring a change of plates. It might not have been "worn out" but still needing replacement for that reason.
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Old 01-27-2013, 06:27 AM   #73251
Carl Childers
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Clutch wear comes down to riding style, some use it as a torque converter and the life is much shorter than someone who uses it in a more conservative manner. Keep in mind the current owner may love to power wheelie and that eats up the clutch faster and is also tough on the head stock bearings so when you look at the bike grab a handful of brake and try to rock the bike back and forth listening and feeling for movement in that area.
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Old 01-27-2013, 08:29 AM   #73252
phreakingeek
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Location: VA
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dirtbagz for dr650

listed in the flea market in case anyone's looking for a deal
http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...light=dirtbagz
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Old 01-27-2013, 12:26 PM   #73253
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
Somebody may have put "Energy Conserving" oil in it and caused the clutch to slip, requiring a change of plates. It might not have been "worn out" but still needing replacement for that reason.
I agree. Not many DR's lose the clutch. Very few I've heard about ... but synthetic oil with friction modifiers will do it. If the rest of the bike looks OK ... could be a good deal. Clutch is easy and relatively cheap to replace.
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Old 01-27-2013, 06:37 PM   #73254
1989THEARK
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Location: Moreno Valley Ca
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I ran royal purple

and valvoline in 2 seperate bikes

by accident.

02 ex250 ran the royal purple.
ran if for a day at the end of the day. I FUCKING HATED MY TRANY!!
the normal smooth shifting it had was GONE!

i wasnt about to waste any more time with that stuff
switched back a normal mineral oil but the possible damage was done. it NEVER shifted like it once did.
every gear i went through i could feel it in the gear box.

the clutch never felt like it was the same again. even after 7 oil changes

the other bike was a friends bike.

he had heard about the pro's and cons of energy conserving oil's
how some people had no problems and some said that the motor seemed to run fine

so we dumped it into his speed triple and took a spin.
after about 40 miles. we pulled over.

and i began the interrogation.

having such a horrible experience with an energy conserving oil.

he said the gearbox shifted fine.
it seemed to feel even a little smoother.

but that the clutch felt like it was slipping a lot more.
anybody that knows the triple knows that if you wanna wheelie this is the bike for you.

and he is nothing but a hot dog.

pulling a wheelie at any possible moment.

now before i get to what he said i'll tell you what i saw.

normally he could get the front up with pretty much no problem the guy weighs all of 120lbs
his power to weight ratio is epic compared to me on my now dr650 weighing 240(still can get nose up even though i'd like to keep it down)

but i noticed he gave the bike more gas and a few times he failed.
but after less than a days ride.

even though i wanted to condem the oil to hell.

he was still on the hopefull side.

so months ran by him with his liquid evil.
after the second oil change
he said that saving a few bucks on oil wasnt worth burning up the clutch.
apparently it wasnt just when he was just showing off that it slipped too much.

but normal clutch operation wasnt the same.
sometimes he would let the clutch out slow and then it would suddenly grab.
he varied the throttle numerous times and although it wasnt frequent.

it was still annoying.

the next oil change he did he used motorcycle brand oil.
but he said that even after he changed the oil he still got that random clutch grab.

he blamed it on the oil that remained in the bike.

me not knowing any better didnt want to agree but i didnt really have any reason to believe it wasnt due
to the remaining oil.. Seeing as how he had never had this problem before the random(Hey dude! what? wanna try something? sure)

the problem never went away until he ran new oil in it for some time after a few oil changes and a new clutch pack it was back to normal.

moral of the story dont ever "ever" Ever! !!!EVER!!

run energy conserving oils i your bike.

liquid evil i tell yuh.

But great in cars

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
I agree. Not many DR's lose the clutch. Very few I've heard about ... but synthetic oil with friction modifiers will do it. If the rest of the bike looks OK ... could be a good deal. Clutch is easy and relatively cheap to replace.
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Old 01-27-2013, 06:58 PM   #73255
Kommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
Somebody may have put "Energy Conserving" oil in it and caused the clutch to slip, requiring a change of plates. It might not have been "worn out" but still needing replacement for that reason.
A binding clutch cable could have been a culprit too.
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Old 01-27-2013, 07:01 PM   #73256
Emmbeedee
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Location: Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
A binding clutch cable could have been a culprit too.
Or even a lack of play in the cable.
__________________
Want to know more about the Garmin Montana? See the Wisdom and FAQ Thread.
Want to know more about the Garmin VIRB? See here.
"The motorcycle, being poorly designed for both flight and marine operation, sustained significant external and internal damage," police noted.
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Old 01-27-2013, 11:54 PM   #73257
LexTalionis
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: San Jose, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
Are you using the stock tank? My IMS goes down pretty far. I can barely see my Carb without taking the other stuff off.

Sent from my LG-P999 using Tapatalk 2
OE tank. If you stated your tank is an IMS in your previous post, I missed it.
Lex
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Old 01-28-2013, 05:16 AM   #73258
SCExpat
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Joined: Dec 2009
Location: Caldwell, ID
Oddometer: 561
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
I agree. Not many DR's lose the clutch. Very few I've heard about ... but synthetic oil with friction modifiers will do it. If the rest of the bike looks OK ... could be a good deal. Clutch is easy and relatively cheap to replace.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1989THEARK View Post
I ran royal purple

and valvoline in 2 seperate bikes

by accident.

moral of the story dont ever "ever" Ever! !!!EVER!!

run energy conserving oils i your bike.

liquid evil i tell yuh.

But great in cars
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
A binding clutch cable could have been a culprit too.
Thanks for all the reply's. Good info. I'll check the steering head bearings, clutch cable and never use energy conserving oil in a bike. There is a lot of people who use ATF in their trials bikes. Just change it frequently as it is cheap. The clutch on my (and most) trials bike is like a light switch - on or off. I bought the ATF and was ready to dump all 500cc's in and I couldn't do it. It's only 500cc and I just wanted to use oil made specifically for a 2 stroke wet clutch gear box. Cost a lot more but I sleep better.
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Old 01-28-2013, 05:19 AM   #73259
SCExpat
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Location: Caldwell, ID
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
Somebody may have put "Energy Conserving" oil in it and caused the clutch to slip, requiring a change of plates. It might not have been "worn out" but still needing replacement for that reason.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Childers View Post
Clutch wear comes down to riding style, some use it as a torque converter and the life is much shorter than someone who uses it in a more conservative manner. Keep in mind the current owner may love to power wheelie and that eats up the clutch faster and is also tough on the head stock bearings so when you look at the bike grab a handful of brake and try to rock the bike back and forth listening and feeling for movement in that area.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
Or even a lack of play in the cable.
Thanks for the reply. They were cut out of the multi due to the small novel about the evils of energy saving oil in bikes. JK. Thanks for all the ideas. Going to have a look today.
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Old 01-28-2013, 06:32 AM   #73260
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DR650 on Bike Exif...



more here:

http://www.bikeexif.com/suzuki-dr650
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