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Old 01-27-2013, 11:59 AM   #15856
PineyMountainRacing
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Location: SW Florida / Western NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean-0 View Post
plus 1 ...what BuRPsa said

remembering oil level will drop when on the fly so i have a mark for on the fly full ....a mark for needs oil when stopped and a mark for full

best thing to add to any xrr ...i also carry 2 bolts as backup of god forbid the line splits or a fitting works loose

easy to wind out the fitting and then install the bolts to get you home
Good idea, I can see the oil level when I'm running but haven't paid attention to exactly where it is
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Old 01-27-2013, 01:01 PM   #15857
Stonethrowa
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Wicked Project XR650R

Hello everyone , Can someone point me towards the right flasher unit so i can run led blinkers on my pig, Doing a project XR650R will post pics when i work out how to do that
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Old 01-27-2013, 04:58 PM   #15858
jules083
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Originally Posted by Stonethrowa View Post
Hello everyone , Can someone point me towards the right flasher unit so i can run led blinkers on my pig, Doing a project XR650R will post pics when i work out how to do that
Are you converting it to dc power or running ac only still? Led flasher units won't work on ac power. I got a resistor from autozone and wired it in along with my leds. Running a flasher from a Chevy truck, I think they all are the same Works fine. If you have dc power the flashers can be found cheap at places like autozone or advanced auto, around $10 or $15.

All typos and misspellings blamed on my phone.
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Old 01-27-2013, 06:12 PM   #15859
bill pierce
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Originally Posted by Stonethrowa View Post
Hello everyone , Can someone point me towards the right flasher unit so i can run led blinkers on my pig, Doing a project XR650R will post pics when i work out how to do that
some reading material for you before you get started.
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=421789
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Old 01-27-2013, 06:40 PM   #15860
DocAxeYarYar
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Old 01-27-2013, 06:48 PM   #15861
Mur
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Sweet Pics buell! Where did you get that red engine/case guard???


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Old 01-27-2013, 06:52 PM   #15862
lstzephyr
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Originally Posted by Adamco2 View Post
Thanks Kiko- The footpeg has already been done and I'm hoping to be able to afford an 8" light before June.

Achile- I'm hoping to have the time for a complete disassembly. What am I looking for with the cam chain? Is it stretch? How do you tell?

Thanks,

Adam

My worn cam chain was very obvious. It had quite a bit of side to side play, had eaten the sides of the plastic sliders and the tensioner was maxed out on travel. I had something around 20-30k miles on mine. I believe there is a spec in the manual but I would say that it should be easy to tell if it is bad or good.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
Yip, spark every revolution - anyone with a Trailtech computer should know this.

I also was thinking about 'off timing', although a bit unlikely I think. The XRR fires (on kicking) at precisely TDC, the CDI starts to advance at crank speeds higher than by kicking it round.
"Too early" (before TDC) would cause kickbacks causing the decomp to act. Snorting into the exhaust, plus maybe coughing back into the airbox. If no decomp-system present (non-std cam but for the genuine HRC) then it might break a leg/foot, but notice you fooken will!
"Too late" would cause normal starting & running but just a bit lousy, unless of course when it is heaps off the mark.

Off-timing could be caused either by a worn/damaged key-match, or the trailing edge of the welded-on plate (rectangular protrusion) on the rotor/flywheel is damaged. Both not common problems - but maybe worth checking if Ist got it off anyway?
I'm with you. I think all the things I have checked point to ignition timing being off. I'll have to check the pickup and the woodruff. If that doesn't do it, I may pull the cam and take a closer look at the auto decomp again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
Just a hunch Allan, 'false air' - go check the head2manifold & manifold2carb connections, plus that one screw/bolt on top of the head? If it leaks air somewhere here then you know it'll be a bastid to start, and won't like to idle then too. I'd check this before you dig in deep again, causes often are simple things.
Goodluck!
I hadn't thought of that. I'll have to check.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pwrtrippin View Post
Its possible to shear the woodruff key and throw the timing way off. Bought a bike with this problem.

For some reason to me it sounds like the ignition timing is off since it is back firing. I'm not sure but I think the piggy is a lost spark system ( fires every revolution) so i don't think it is possible to time the engine 360degrees off.

Have you pulled the stator cover off? To check the stator, I would check for continuity between the stator windings, disconnect all the wires. Green and White/yellow stripe, then check the same wires to a frame ground. These are your power leads for headlight tail light. Next do the same thing with the Brown and Black/red stripe. These are your power for the CDI and coil. There should be continuity between the wires but not to ground. Do the same with Blue/ yellow strip and the Green/ white stripe. These are your pickup, once again you should have continuity between the wires but not to ground.

I think form the sounds of it the stator is good though. I would definately look more into ignition timing issues.
Stator cover has been off quite a few times. One thing I haven't check at all is the flywheel woodruff key. I hadn't even thought of it even though i had a car do that once. Good idea! I'll check the stator wires closer and the key and get back to you all.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Beserker View Post
Quick to check though, and worthwile if you got the bike from somebody that is not an experianced mech
I've set the cam timing three or four times now and I've owned this bike for a while so the only person I have to blame is me. I doubt it is 360 out but that was one of the things I checked closely when I had the head off last week.


Thanks guys!

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Old 01-27-2013, 08:07 PM   #15863
Stonethrowa
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Laugh Project XR650R

Thanks guys, this info will help heaps
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Old 01-27-2013, 08:18 PM   #15864
DocAxeYarYar
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Case guards

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mur View Post
Sweet Pics buell! Where did you get that red engine/case guard???
Mur, I was lucky enough to have a local guy in Texas powdercoat them for me, but he is no longer doing this. He was a true artist!

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Old 01-27-2013, 10:55 PM   #15865
BuRPsa
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Originally Posted by lstzephyr View Post
I doubt it is 360 out but that was one of the things I checked closely when I had the head off last week.
As I said, it cannot be '360-out' on this bike, it isn't that.
Go check that carb-fitting to the head. I would put thick grease between all mating surfaces and see if it starts... and take it from there. And that bolt/screw on top I'd just glue in (unless you use it for a vacuum pump on a large tank).
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Old 01-28-2013, 02:16 AM   #15866
RideFreak
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Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
As I said, it cannot be '360-out' on this bike, it isn't that.
Go check that carb-fitting to the head. I would put thick grease between all mating surfaces and see if it starts... and take it from there. And that bolt/screw on top I'd just glue in (unless you use it for a vacuum pump on a large tank).
BuRPsa, I like the grease check. Super simple and quite obvious. I've always used the spray method which isn't always effective and won't work in a non-running situation, it's going in the bag of tricks

I'd check the flywheel just to eliminate that as a potential problem, like BuRPsa said, can't be 360 off, only goes on one way but if it slipped which it shouldn't with a good woodruff key and proper install it could cause the non-start problem. Probably unlikely but it sounds like you've checked most of the other areas. If it ran already, cam timing should be ok, easy enough to check. I'd be surprised if it was the pickup coil, those usally don't go bad all of a sudden unless there's some physical damage that occurred. A stuck decomp should be obvious with how hard it was to push start when you tried it. I still vote for a good pull Doesn't eliminate the problem but if it starts the issue will probably be very obvious hearing it run like misfiring (ign), popping back through the carb (fuel/air or decomp) clattering or knocking (mechanical).

It shouldn't need a pull to run but sometimes that can get you on the right track much faster.
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Old 01-28-2013, 02:29 AM   #15867
Xmoto
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New guy on the thread.

New toy .

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Old 01-28-2013, 02:38 AM   #15868
TJE
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Newbie thumper question :)

Hey guys!

Noob here! Got a BRP this weekend and is well impressed with it. My other bike is an XVR750, so really enjoying the torque and the lightness of the XRR ...

I have one 'issue' that bugs me a bit ... when I let go of the gas in 1st or 2nd, and the engine starts to decelerate, it's really hard to smoothly pick up acceleration again. It's like it'll only catch on quick, giving a sudden yank, not a smooth pick up. I'm not talking about bringing it down to very low revs ... just engine breaking a bit.

Does that make sense? Since this is my first thumper, I have no idea if this normal?

The same seems to happens when changing from 1st to 2nd gear. Very hard to do it smoothly, unless I rev 1st gear a bit more than I would think is necessary.

Thanks in advance!

/Thomas
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Old 01-28-2013, 02:47 AM   #15869
BuRPsa
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Ha Chris, then you'll like this one too: take apart, use Hylomar Blue (never setting gasket maker paste) instead of grease, and ride until the Earth ends - and screw Mayans too
OK, a trick mainly for hard/brittle rubber parts of oldtimers for which you cannot get parts, but run it will. Way better than silicon as the Hylomar 'glue' easily comes loose again. Ah, NO Allan, go buy a new boot ya hear?
Agree with pullstarting, and he should know to drop hard in the saddle the moments he lets the clutch go.
Must say, I'm curious as to what it will turn out to be!
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Old 01-28-2013, 02:58 AM   #15870
RideFreak
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Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
Ha Chris, then you'll like this one too: take apart, use Hylomar Blue (never setting gasket maker paste) instead of grease, and ride until the Earth ends - and screw Mayans too
OK, a trick mainly for hard/brittle rubber parts of oldtimers for which you cannot get parts, but run it will. Way better than silicon as the Hylomar 'glue' easily comes loose again. Ah, NO Allan, go buy a new boot ya hear?
Agree with pullstarting, and he should know to drop hard in the saddle the moments he lets the clutch go.
Must say, I'm curious as to what it will turn out to be!
I'll check out the Hylomar Blue, hadn't heard of it but I agree, RTV is a poor repair for a rubber manifold problem.

Tje, the symptoms you described could be a number of things but it mostly sounds out of tune, probably the carb. Since you just got it, I'd go through everything, verify the valve adj, jetting, float height and overall setup like cable adjustments, specifically throttle and decompression freeplay. Blow out/verify all the carb passages while it's apart. I'd verify it's decorked. Doing this will familiarize you with the bike which will be invaluable when you have an issue in the middle of nowhere and you'll be surprised how out of tune previous owners will let a bike get. Also get a manual and read this thread start to end, it will educate you

Your chain looks a little tight too

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