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Old 01-27-2013, 02:07 AM   #16
Multiplicity
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720 watts divided by 12 ='s 60 amps.
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Old 01-27-2013, 08:15 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by MsLizVt View Post


Is that Lance I see in the background?





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Old 01-28-2013, 07:31 PM   #18
ragtoplvr
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I have worked on at least 100 different types and brands of alternators over the years, and on thousands of units.

Alternators are current limited. A 60 amp alternator at a HIGH RPM with a constant temperature and constant excitation current in the rotor will deliver the about the same amps at 6 volts or 24 volts. ( within a few percent.)

The temperature will reduce the current. It is not uncommon to see 20% from hot to cold, although 15 % is more normal.

Where the alternator is rated is mfg choice, usually it is cold so they show the best output. So lets assume Bosch rated this one at cold.

Bosch is normally pretty good, so we can use 15% hot drop, and the 60 amp alternator would become about 51 amp at 14 volts. Load it to 12 volts, and the rotor current would also fall, so the amps would fall a few more. Yes, overload the alternator and the amps fall more. Still, that is a lot of amps for a motorcycle. Since this alternator does not have to deal with hot underhood air, it would probably never get really hot, so you might stabilize at at little higher amps. I expect you will always see at least 50 amps at higher RPM's.

All wound rotor alternators behave pretty much the same way except for the hairpin Nippondenso units. those are very stout.

Rod
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Old 01-28-2013, 07:31 PM   #19
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60W LED spots?

Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertKLR View Post
Thanks for your help too. I have just fitted 2 Aurora LED spot lights that draw 5 amps each

Thanks again

Geoff.
So you have 2x 60 W of LED spots? That sounds like a massive amount of light to me. Are you trying to outshine the sun, or are they for some reason not as efficient as LED's normally are ? Or are they are just fused with 5A, because the circuit might draw 5A peak, and then draws much less when running? I guess I need to look up what Aurora LED spots can do...

http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/69...ombo_beam.html

I guess I just learned that this is actually possible, impressive as it is...
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Justav screwed with this post 01-28-2013 at 07:39 PM Reason: (did some more research... am impressed...)
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Old 01-29-2013, 02:03 AM   #20
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Hi, they do have a 5amp fuse on the positive lead that comes off the battery, but I tell you what they are damn bright. They light up road signs during the day, I even had a bloke flash his lights at me this morning on the way to work indicating that I should turn my lights down

Each light comes with it's own complete wiring loom thus suggesting that you only need one. So I have fitted 2 separate spot lights, I can turn one on or both.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Justav View Post
So you have 2x 60 W of LED spots? That sounds like a massive amount of light to me. Are you trying to outshine the sun, or are they for some reason not as efficient as LED's normally are ? Or are they are just fused with 5A, because the circuit might draw 5A peak, and then draws much less when running? I guess I need to look up what Aurora LED spots can do...

http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/69...ombo_beam.html

I guess I just learned that this is actually possible, impressive as it is...
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Old 01-29-2013, 11:36 AM   #21
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I am somewhat leery of automotive LED lighting products from China. So, maybe the actual LED component is OK (the Alibaba supplier in the link says the LEDs come from the USA, whatever that means).

The supplier further claims 6000 lumens of light output, an impressive specifications if true. Further, the claim is made that the polycarbonate lens is from an Italian design and the mounting hardware is from a Japanese design…in other words, the Chinese manufacturer is indicating nothing is original in the design but, the whole thing is a copy.

I wonder if the copied designs were from an automotive application? Also, I would not be too proud of merely stealing somebody else’s work and effort. The Chinese seem not to care.

Copies are OK if the one doing the copy is skilled at engineering or has access to the original design details. There are few skilled engineers in China and many copied products are done so with little applied engineering. Many copies are merely copies for appearance. Most products that are copied lack the performance and quality of the original.

A bright automobile headlight needs control of the light output from the light source directed onto the road, not scattered randomly. It is no wonder that oncoming drivers are annoyed at the poorly focused light from an array of bright LEDs and flash their lights in protest.

An average 35 watt HID installed in an appropriate headlamp reflector does a reasonable job of focusing light where it is needed, onto the roadway ahead.

The older oil heads with the asymmetrical headlights had a projector style low beam headlamp design with the anti scatter cutoff mask which is ideal for HID conversion. Properly aimed, the BMW projector low beam did not cause distress for oncoming drivers. Also HID conversions provide improved daytime conspicuity as well as reduced electrical load. And, HIDs tolerate high vibration. I do not have first-hand experience with the newer GS headlamp assembly but owners say their HID conversions work well.

When riding at night, I want to see Bambi at 200 yards. At 60 MPH, that gives me about 5-6 seconds of time to react. A good HID will provide increased light at long distance.

Also, HIDs are made at 4300K, the ideal light color for our eyes. Remember, we rely on light that starts at our headlight, travels to the object of interest and is reflected back to our eyes, meaning the light has travelled 2X the distance to the object of interest. The headlight better be well focused to deliver the light where it is most effective.

White LEDs often contain a UV component that is not well discerned by the eye. UV is known to produce eye disorders so be careful. HID lamps are often coated to filter the UV light component back into the lamp kernel as heat, thereby aiding in emissions.

I’ll stick with good old HIDs made in some dirt floor shop in China with a skilled glassblower hovering over a lathe and torch, making the HID lamp with fused quartz then filling it with noble gasses and metal halide salts…now, that’s a good copy…maybe.

def screwed with this post 01-30-2013 at 08:51 AM
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Old 02-01-2013, 12:37 AM   #22
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These are the lights I fitted, they are awesome

http://www.rigidindustries.com/Duall.../duallyled.htm

Cheers Geoff
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Old 02-04-2013, 05:57 PM   #23
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West Virginia,
W VA,
Watts = Volts x Amps
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Old 02-07-2013, 05:44 PM   #24
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Thoughts about cold weather

A couple days ago, I was riding home and the temp was about 28F. Thus, I was using Powerlet heated jacket and gloves (on a direct draw, fused outlet). Those, plus two PIAA 530 driving lights, low beam headlight, handguard LEDs, and a Garmin 376c/GXM30 seem to pull some significant power. To be on the safe side, I run the voltage indicator on one corner of the Garmin.

While waiting at a stoplight, the voltage dropped to 7.5 and the Garmin stopped charging (started shutoff countdown, which is how I set it). Blipped the gas, and back it came. Apparently, I now know where the limit may be.

Could I have maxxed out my farkles?
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Old 02-08-2013, 09:45 AM   #25
def
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ride4Coffee View Post
A couple days ago, I was riding home and the temp was about 28F. Thus, I was using Powerlet heated jacket and gloves (on a direct draw, fused outlet). Those, plus two PIAA 530 driving lights, low beam headlight, handguard LEDs, and a Garmin 376c/GXM30 seem to pull some significant power. To be on the safe side, I run the voltage indicator on one corner of the Garmin.

While waiting at a stoplight, the voltage dropped to 7.5 and the Garmin stopped charging (started shutoff countdown, which is how I set it). Blipped the gas, and back it came. Apparently, I now know where the limit may be.

Could I have maxxed out my farkles?
Better put the battery on the charger when you park.
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Old 02-08-2013, 10:18 AM   #26
def
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ragtoplvr View Post
I have worked on at least 100 different types and brands of alternators over the years, and on thousands of units.

Alternators are current limited. A 60 amp alternator at a HIGH RPM with a constant temperature and constant excitation current in the rotor will deliver the about the same amps at 6 volts or 24 volts. ( within a few percent.)

The temperature will reduce the current. It is not uncommon to see 20% from hot to cold, although 15 % is more normal.

Where the alternator is rated is mfg choice, usually it is cold so they show the best output. So lets assume Bosch rated this one at cold.

Bosch is normally pretty good, so we can use 15% hot drop, and the 60 amp alternator would become about 51 amp at 14 volts. Load it to 12 volts, and the rotor current would also fall, so the amps would fall a few more. Yes, overload the alternator and the amps fall more. Still, that is a lot of amps for a motorcycle. Since this alternator does not have to deal with hot underhood air, it would probably never get really hot, so you might stabilize at at little higher amps. I expect you will always see at least 50 amps at higher RPM's.

All wound rotor alternators behave pretty much the same way except for the hairpin Nippondenso units. those are very stout.

Rod
The only alternator that I ever repaired was the Delco Remy alternator on my 1968 Buick Electra 225 convertible. It needed a new front bearing that cost about $2.50 back then. I splurged and put in a new brush and changed both bearings. Cost? About $10.00. That car was the heaviest car I have ever owned weighing in at ~4300 lbs. It had a 430 cid V-8 that would suck up fuel like a dragster. I wish I had that car today. It rode like a.....well, a big Buick.
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