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Old 01-27-2013, 08:07 PM   #15856
Stonethrowa
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Laugh Project XR650R

Thanks guys, this info will help heaps
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Old 01-27-2013, 08:18 PM   #15857
DocAxeYarYar
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Case guards

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mur View Post
Sweet Pics buell! Where did you get that red engine/case guard???
Mur, I was lucky enough to have a local guy in Texas powdercoat them for me, but he is no longer doing this. He was a true artist!

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Old 01-27-2013, 10:55 PM   #15858
BuRPsa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lstzephyr View Post
I doubt it is 360 out but that was one of the things I checked closely when I had the head off last week.
As I said, it cannot be '360-out' on this bike, it isn't that.
Go check that carb-fitting to the head. I would put thick grease between all mating surfaces and see if it starts... and take it from there. And that bolt/screw on top I'd just glue in (unless you use it for a vacuum pump on a large tank).
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Old 01-28-2013, 02:16 AM   #15859
RideFreak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
As I said, it cannot be '360-out' on this bike, it isn't that.
Go check that carb-fitting to the head. I would put thick grease between all mating surfaces and see if it starts... and take it from there. And that bolt/screw on top I'd just glue in (unless you use it for a vacuum pump on a large tank).
BuRPsa, I like the grease check. Super simple and quite obvious. I've always used the spray method which isn't always effective and won't work in a non-running situation, it's going in the bag of tricks

I'd check the flywheel just to eliminate that as a potential problem, like BuRPsa said, can't be 360 off, only goes on one way but if it slipped which it shouldn't with a good woodruff key and proper install it could cause the non-start problem. Probably unlikely but it sounds like you've checked most of the other areas. If it ran already, cam timing should be ok, easy enough to check. I'd be surprised if it was the pickup coil, those usally don't go bad all of a sudden unless there's some physical damage that occurred. A stuck decomp should be obvious with how hard it was to push start when you tried it. I still vote for a good pull Doesn't eliminate the problem but if it starts the issue will probably be very obvious hearing it run like misfiring (ign), popping back through the carb (fuel/air or decomp) clattering or knocking (mechanical).

It shouldn't need a pull to run but sometimes that can get you on the right track much faster.
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Old 01-28-2013, 02:29 AM   #15860
Xmoto
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New guy on the thread.

New toy .

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Old 01-28-2013, 02:38 AM   #15861
TJE
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Newbie thumper question :)

Hey guys!

Noob here! Got a BRP this weekend and is well impressed with it. My other bike is an XVR750, so really enjoying the torque and the lightness of the XRR ...

I have one 'issue' that bugs me a bit ... when I let go of the gas in 1st or 2nd, and the engine starts to decelerate, it's really hard to smoothly pick up acceleration again. It's like it'll only catch on quick, giving a sudden yank, not a smooth pick up. I'm not talking about bringing it down to very low revs ... just engine breaking a bit.

Does that make sense? Since this is my first thumper, I have no idea if this normal?

The same seems to happens when changing from 1st to 2nd gear. Very hard to do it smoothly, unless I rev 1st gear a bit more than I would think is necessary.

Thanks in advance!

/Thomas
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Old 01-28-2013, 02:47 AM   #15862
BuRPsa
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Ha Chris, then you'll like this one too: take apart, use Hylomar Blue (never setting gasket maker paste) instead of grease, and ride until the Earth ends - and screw Mayans too
OK, a trick mainly for hard/brittle rubber parts of oldtimers for which you cannot get parts, but run it will. Way better than silicon as the Hylomar 'glue' easily comes loose again. Ah, NO Allan, go buy a new boot ya hear?
Agree with pullstarting, and he should know to drop hard in the saddle the moments he lets the clutch go.
Must say, I'm curious as to what it will turn out to be!
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Old 01-28-2013, 02:58 AM   #15863
RideFreak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
Ha Chris, then you'll like this one too: take apart, use Hylomar Blue (never setting gasket maker paste) instead of grease, and ride until the Earth ends - and screw Mayans too
OK, a trick mainly for hard/brittle rubber parts of oldtimers for which you cannot get parts, but run it will. Way better than silicon as the Hylomar 'glue' easily comes loose again. Ah, NO Allan, go buy a new boot ya hear?
Agree with pullstarting, and he should know to drop hard in the saddle the moments he lets the clutch go.
Must say, I'm curious as to what it will turn out to be!
I'll check out the Hylomar Blue, hadn't heard of it but I agree, RTV is a poor repair for a rubber manifold problem.

Tje, the symptoms you described could be a number of things but it mostly sounds out of tune, probably the carb. Since you just got it, I'd go through everything, verify the valve adj, jetting, float height and overall setup like cable adjustments, specifically throttle and decompression freeplay. Blow out/verify all the carb passages while it's apart. I'd verify it's decorked. Doing this will familiarize you with the bike which will be invaluable when you have an issue in the middle of nowhere and you'll be surprised how out of tune previous owners will let a bike get. Also get a manual and read this thread start to end, it will educate you

Your chain looks a little tight too
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RideFreak screwed with this post 01-28-2013 at 03:03 AM
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Old 01-28-2013, 03:02 AM   #15864
BuRPsa
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Xmoto - congrats, it looks the biz!
And now go change your avatar to a single then?


TJE, Welcome, and - you didn't expect anything else here did you? - you bought the best bike there is!
I'd start taking the carb off, apart and clean it - so you know it's not that. Floatlevel 19mm (not 18) will prevent pissing fuel when leant over. Also, on the lhs there's a small cover under which a spring & membrane lives, and the cover itself has a tiny hole/passage in it... block it, use a droplet of epoxy or silicon. This system leans off the mixture on overrun, and may be the cause of what you experience.
But, allow me to be thick, your bike is "un-corked", like in opened up? Scratch here using the search function if you dunno how to check, but this bit you need to do first in any case - and luckily for you that includes disassembly of the carb in any case (to change a few parts).
And, new2you means checking oilscreen(s), renewing oilfilter & checking/cleaning airfilter, fresh oil incl checking the oil-level - go read how the latter must be done first before you call me thick indeed
And read a lot here in this thread, you'll learn plenty which you must know about this bike.
Have fun doing all this, it's a grrreeaat bike!
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Old 01-28-2013, 03:08 AM   #15865
Lostsaffa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJE View Post
Hey guys!

Noob here! Got a BRP this weekend and is well impressed with it. My other bike is an XVR750, so really enjoying the torque and the lightness of the XRR ...

I have one 'issue' that bugs me a bit ... when I let go of the gas in 1st or 2nd, and the engine starts to decelerate, it's really hard to smoothly pick up acceleration again. It's like it'll only catch on quick, giving a sudden yank, not a smooth pick up. I'm not talking about bringing it down to very low revs ... just engine breaking a bit.

Does that make sense? Since this is my first thumper, I have no idea if this normal?

The same seems to happens when changing from 1st to 2nd gear. Very hard to do it smoothly, unless I rev 1st gear a bit more than I would think is necessary.

Thanks in advance!

/Thomas
If you are not used to dirt bikes, which don't have Cush drives like road bikes it does seem like they jerk when tapping on and off the throttle, especially a beast single like the XR650R. It may be something like Burpsa suggests, but could also just be because these types of bikes are new to you.
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Old 01-28-2013, 03:15 AM   #15866
Xmoto
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Can someone tell me if a front wheel from a XR650L will fit a R.
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Old 01-28-2013, 03:16 AM   #15867
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
Xmoto - congrats, it looks the biz!
And now go change your avatar to a single then?
Thanks. I still have a twin also .
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Old 01-28-2013, 03:24 AM   #15868
RideFreak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buell78753 View Post
Mur, I was lucky enough to have a local guy in Texas powdercoat them for me, but he is no longer doing this. He was a true artist!
Buell, I like the red!

Powdercoating is def the way to go if you want a decent rehab of the cases, I just finished building an XR4 and had the cases done in a flat black satin powdercoat, it ran about $100 which is pricey bit it really made the bike look better (I painted in the lettering to add a little bling )

Sand out any scratches before taking it to them and make sure you wash out everything very well afterwards, they have to bead blast the parts prior to the PC and there will probably be some silicate left on the internals.

crappy phone picture.





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Old 01-28-2013, 06:10 AM   #15869
jules083
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Ridefreak, that bike is sweet.


I'm finally getting around to my winter maintenance, planning on a rear suspension grease/check, remove the lowering block and restore factory height, fork rebuild, grease steering stem bearings. Motor shouldn't need touched at this point, just a valve check and oil change.

For the guys with the 'left' rear fender, How'd you fix it? It's more of an annoyance than anything, but on mine the tire rubs on the side of the fender and the muffler is shimmed out about 3/4". The goal is 'better' rather than 'perfect', but I'd accept perfect also. Pictures coming as soon I hope, internet is running slow today.

Any surprises I'm going to run into pulling the swingarm? I'm partway through making the swingarm tools, and have a shop manual. Just wondering if I'm going to run into something. As you all know the manual keeps talking about special tools that we don't have.

Grease- I normally use Mobil one synthetic, should I use something else? I've never heard good or bad about the mobil one, I just know we use it on some very expensive things at work. From my experiance things made for motorcycles are triple in price compared to similar automotive or industrial items but may not be any better quality,
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Old 01-28-2013, 11:55 AM   #15870
walkergreenlabel
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petcock gasket

I thought i read on the thread where you can get a replacement gasket for the stock petcock. i did search but didnt find it. i think i need a new one. anyone know where to get one cheap? i would get the clarke petcock for $20 but its on/off only, no reserve. i would be stuck in the woods for sure if the reserve reminder wasnt there.
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