ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 01-27-2013, 09:11 PM   #76
rectangular OP
Adventurer
 
Joined: Mar 2011
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Oddometer: 60
Quote:
Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
Did I miss the oil pump inspection? Hate to see you waste the engine again with a scored pump.
Ahhh... crap.

Is this something I can defer to after my 20-minute break in? I'll be checking the oil screen at that point too.

(I think I already know the answer to this...)

rectangular screwed with this post 01-27-2013 at 09:19 PM
rectangular is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2013, 09:53 PM   #77
DirtyDog
Lust for dust.
 
DirtyDog's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2007
Location: Tulsa... it's OK
Oddometer: 7,534
Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyDog View Post
...Continue with the socket theme, but fashion one that "pulls". Use a series of sockets and some threaded rod or a bolt. You can press that seal right out with no issues. Check out the MarkNet KLR site for a pictorial.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rectangular View Post
I'm not sure I follow. That was the old seal that we had to drive out. It's the way the Clymer manual specifically described removing the old seal. We ended up punching a hole through the old one accidentally trying to remove it. It was easy enough to remove by just using a larger drift which spread the force over a larger area.

I really like the tip for tracing the outline in cardboard and placing the bolts in the cardboard. Seems like it completely prevents any chance for future error!
Look at the link I provided above. Tough to describe without pics. I've removed the seal with both methods. At this point, I prefer a puller over a drift on any such removal... bearings, seals, etc. Slow, even pressure vs. smacking a pointed object against a delicate one. Makes sense to me.
__________________
"This place fucking runs on beer, you buy the right person a beer, and you get a job, a blow, a place to sleep, whatever.
You're hot, cold, thirsty, hungry... beer will fix that.
Beer is a god damn miracle, and don't you forget it!"
-DustyRags
DirtyDog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2013, 10:51 PM   #78
rectangular OP
Adventurer
 
Joined: Mar 2011
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Oddometer: 60
Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyDog View Post
Look at the link I provided above. Tough to describe without pics. I've removed the seal with both methods. At this point, I prefer a puller over a drift on any such removal... bearings, seals, etc. Slow, even pressure vs. smacking a pointed object against a delicate one. Makes sense to me.
I see! Yeah, that does actually seem like a lot better way to remove or install. Keeps it nice and even, much less chance of it getting jammed. I'll have to remember that next time I have to install a bearing or a seal. The water seal in this instance seems like the perfect use for this method.
rectangular is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2013, 07:26 AM   #79
Kawidad
Beastly Adventurer
 
Kawidad's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2005
Location: Central Coast, Cal
Oddometer: 4,579
Quote:
Originally Posted by rectangular View Post
Ahhh... crap.

Is this something I can defer to after my 20-minute break in? I'll be checking the oil screen at that point too.

(I think I already know the answer to this...)
It's a good idea, but..........

If you used silicon or such on the gasket, I'd leave it. The bike only has 12k on the clock and you found the reason for the oil starvation. You didn't note excessive metal, which would have trashed the oil pump. Gummy worms won't. If you just used the OEM gasket, then it wouldn't be a bad idea, but not really necessary. Personally, I'd run it.
__________________
Quis custodiet ipsos custodes? - Juvenal
(Who watches the watchers)
Kawidad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2013, 08:04 AM   #80
larryboy
Leisurely Liar
 
larryboy's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Location: On a set of 50,000 mile tires.
Oddometer: 13,881
Quote:
Originally Posted by rectangular View Post
Ahhh... crap.

Is this something I can defer to after my 20-minute break in? I'll be checking the oil screen at that point too.

(I think I already know the answer to this...)

I wouldn't risk it, if the top end was starved of oil, so was the pump. The bottom is splash lubed, the pump is a metal on metal type of pump, it has to have oil to lube itself. It's one wasted gasket, take it apart and check it.
__________________
Be sure the safest rule is that we should not dare to live in any scene in which we dare not die. ~Lewis Carroll~
larryboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2013, 08:50 AM   #81
ADW
'tard bike restos
 
ADW's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2009
Location: MI
Oddometer: 517
OEM/Kawa

Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyDog View Post
Also, I've noticed these K&N oil filters don't fit worth a damn. Go with the Hi-Flo variety instead.
No, go with an OEM oil filter from Kawasaki. Oil filter aftermarket manufacturers only have to make an oil filter they think you'll buy. Kawasaki's oil filters have to pass a validation test developed by Kawasaki that ensures it will stand up to temperatures, pressures and flow rates that Kawi knows for that engine.

EDIT: no slam meant on DirtyDog, BTW.
__________________
08 KLR, 06 KLR w/Sputnik sidecar, 72 CB350F

ADW screwed with this post 01-28-2013 at 09:18 AM
ADW is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2013, 08:56 AM   #82
rectangular OP
Adventurer
 
Joined: Mar 2011
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Oddometer: 60
Quote:
Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
I wouldn't risk it, if the top end was starved of oil, so was the pump. The bottom is splash lubed, the pump is a metal on metal type of pump, it has to have oil to lube itself. It's one wasted gasket, take it apart and check it.
Will do. It shouldn't take very long anyways. I'm getting pretty familiar with both sides under the engine covers.
rectangular is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2013, 09:12 AM   #83
larryboy
Leisurely Liar
 
larryboy's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Location: On a set of 50,000 mile tires.
Oddometer: 13,881
Quote:
Originally Posted by rectangular View Post
Will do. It shouldn't take very long anyways. I'm getting pretty familiar with both sides under the engine covers.

If you're careful you might be able to save the gasket. The oil pump surface should have a mirror surface, use a hand impact driver to get the screws out.
__________________
Be sure the safest rule is that we should not dare to live in any scene in which we dare not die. ~Lewis Carroll~
larryboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2013, 09:20 AM   #84
ADW
'tard bike restos
 
ADW's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2009
Location: MI
Oddometer: 517
Quote:
Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
If you're careful you might be able to save the gasket.
A tip I learned a while ago is when you're putting on a new gasket, coat one side of the gasket with a light film of grease. Just a light apply, not much. That will be enough to prevent it from sticking to the metal when you remove the cover again someday but won't hinder it sealing.

I tend to grease the side than goes toward the engine, not the case. This is because it's easier to scrape the gasket off a case that you can take to the bench or whatever than the engine itself.
__________________
08 KLR, 06 KLR w/Sputnik sidecar, 72 CB350F
ADW is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2013, 10:06 AM   #85
rectangular OP
Adventurer
 
Joined: Mar 2011
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Oddometer: 60
Quote:
Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
If you're careful you might be able to save the gasket. The oil pump surface should have a mirror surface, use a hand impact driver to get the screws out.
I don't have a hand impact driver :(


Quote:
Originally Posted by ADW
I tend to grease the side than goes toward the engine, not the case. This is because it's easier to scrape the gasket off a case that you can take to the bench or whatever than the engine itself.
And it won't cause issues with coolant leaking? Interesting. I might have to give this a shot.

Also, I haven't found a definitive answer if the side cases on the KLR should have silicone gasket maker (rtv bond/hondabond/etc) applied to the paper gaskets or not. Are the paper gaskets just applied as is? Seems strange to me.
rectangular is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2013, 10:18 AM   #86
larryboy
Leisurely Liar
 
larryboy's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Location: On a set of 50,000 mile tires.
Oddometer: 13,881
Quote:
Originally Posted by rectangular View Post
I don't have a hand impact driver :(




And it won't cause issues with coolant leaking? Interesting. I might have to give this a shot.

Also, I haven't found a definitive answer if the side cases on the KLR should have silicone gasket maker (rtv bond/hondabond/etc) applied to the paper gaskets or not. Are the paper gaskets just applied as is? Seems strange to me.

Then use your biggest fattest phillips head and tap on the handle with a hammer while turning. Impact driver is about $10, can be found everywhere.

The only place a KLR engine needs sealant is the center cases, no paper gasket there, you found the result of using too much goo on the center cases. A dab of RTV on a new valve cover gasket will help hold it to the cover when you install it, don't go crazy, apply long before you want to put it back on.


Awesome tip on the grease idea, ADW!!
__________________
Be sure the safest rule is that we should not dare to live in any scene in which we dare not die. ~Lewis Carroll~
larryboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2013, 10:58 AM   #87
rectangular OP
Adventurer
 
Joined: Mar 2011
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Oddometer: 60
Quote:
Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
Then use your biggest fattest phillips head and tap on the handle with a hammer while turning. Impact driver is about $10, can be found everywhere.
Edit: Nevermind, the oil pump is phillips head. I follow now.

Also, I'm probably going to be going in and checking on the oil pump tonight. Anything specific that I should look for once I remove it?

rectangular screwed with this post 01-28-2013 at 11:08 AM
rectangular is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2013, 11:06 AM   #88
larryboy
Leisurely Liar
 
larryboy's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Location: On a set of 50,000 mile tires.
Oddometer: 13,881
Quote:
Originally Posted by rectangular View Post
Make sense. Although, the KLR side covers are held on with 8mm hex bolts though.

Oil pump man, come on, I'm trying to help you here.





Scoring, it should have a mirror finish...no lines of any sort.
__________________
Be sure the safest rule is that we should not dare to live in any scene in which we dare not die. ~Lewis Carroll~
larryboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2013, 11:20 AM   #89
rectangular OP
Adventurer
 
Joined: Mar 2011
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Oddometer: 60
Quote:
Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
Oil pump man, come on, I'm trying to help you here.





Scoring, it should have a mirror finish...no lines of any sort.
Yeah. I'm a little slow today.

I figured out what was going on once I started looking up pictures of the oil pump.
rectangular is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2013, 11:43 AM   #90
Kawidad
Beastly Adventurer
 
Kawidad's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2005
Location: Central Coast, Cal
Oddometer: 4,579
Don't forget to prime the oil pump after disassembly.
__________________
Quis custodiet ipsos custodes? - Juvenal
(Who watches the watchers)
Kawidad is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 05:13 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014