The 650 Dakar Thread

[Lupin 3rd]

I contracted the "stupid" virus and killed my battery (Shorai - LiFePO - Lithium Iron whatever...) while trying to start my GS. Should have noticed the kickstand switch out of place and the Oil Temp light not flashing...

I've had batteries go bad on me before, specifically due to the alternator wires melting on my old Ducati Monster. But since that bike is carb'ed, I've always been able to push start it. No such hope with the GS: even with a low battery I still couldn't push start it! The only solution was to jump start from another battery.

I don't blame the battery or the technology, it had all worked fine until I messed up. However, if I ever go somewhere really out of the way, I'll make sure and bring an extra battery probably a Sycl (sold by an inmate here). Just 'cause I can't be trusted!

[herrhelmet]

Originally Posted by Lupin 3rd

I contracted the "stupid" virus and killed my battery (Shorai - LiFePO - Lithium Iron whatever...) while trying to start my GS. Should have noticed the kickstand switch out of place and the Oil Temp light not flashing...

I've had batteries go bad on me before, specifically due to the alternator wires melting on my old Ducati Monster. But since that bike is carb'ed, I've always been able to push start it. No such hope with the GS: even with a low battery I still couldn't push start it! The only solution was to jump start from another battery.

I don't blame the battery or the technology, it had all worked fine until I messed up. However, if I ever go somewhere really out of the way, I'll make sure and bring an extra battery probably a Sycl (sold by an inmate here). Just 'cause I can't be trusted!

I bring an extra battery when I go on long off-road trips. I've had my original 4.6 Ah for 3 years, but I've removed anything on my bike (including the sidestand switch) that could cause parasitic drain. That's the number one battery killer and most street bikes and a lot of dirt bikes have it somewhere. Heck, even those USB ports cause drain even without an LED indicator. The other killer (as mentioned in a previous post) is bad voltage regulator/low stator output.
Thats easy to check. Just idle the bike with a multimeter checking voltage (set at 20 volts DC) and watch the voltage rise. Should be 14+ volts.

Parasitic drain detection is simple but can take a while to check for faults. Here's step-by-step from Wikihow:

1. Remove the negative side battery cable from the negative battery terminal.

2. Connect the black wire to the com input on the multimeter and the red wire to the 10A or 20A input on the multimeter. the meter needs to be able to read at least a 2 or 3 amps for this test to work. Connecting the red wire to the mA input on the multimeter won't work and could damage the meter.

3. Attach a multimeter(set the dial on the multimeter to measure Amps as per multimeters instructions) between the negative cable and the negative battery post.

4. If the ammeter is reading over 25-50 milliamps, something is using too much battery power.

5. Go to the fuse panel(s) and remove fuses, one at a time. Pull the main fuses (higher amp ratings)last. Perform the same steps for relays found in the fuse panel. Sometimes relay contacts can fail to release causing a drain. Be sure to observe the ammeter after pulling each fuse or relay.

6. Watch for the ammeter to drop to acceptable drain. The fuse that reduces the drain is the draw. Consult the owners' manual or service manual to find what circuits are on that fuse.

7. Check each device (circuit) on that fuse. Stop each lamp, heater, etc. to find the drain.

8. Repeat steps 1&2 to test your repair. The ammeter will tell you exact numbers.

[Seventh]

Hi folks,

It's been a while, and yes, the GS is still dead. But enough of that for the moment - just wanted to share something nice. I had a trip planned for last weekend, and a friend went out of his way to make sure it happened. That's me on the local dealers' demo unit.



Awesome to ride again! Hope I didn't offend anyone with the depressingly downward series of videos. All it took was a little highway time and some twisties to sort out the meh.

Thanks guys for helping people get back in their saddles - appreciate it

[Baams]

Hi quick question, can the OEM shock be repaired or do i need to sell my liver to get a Öhlins before i have the money?

[nomad5326]

Pressure washed my bike after a very muddy ride and now have two things on the blink that were perfectly fine beforehand:

Tail light is out (both brake and running).
Oil Temp/Warmer light is on (was working perfectly and oil is moving when I run it).

Thoughts before I have to delve into a new bulb and oil temp sensor?

Yeah, I know your not supposed to pressure wash, but I just couldn't get up in there to get out all the darn mud!

[Fly Molo]

Originally Posted by Baams

Hi quick question, can the OEM shock be repaired or do i need to sell my liver to get a Öhlins before i have the money?

This came up recently over at the Chain Gang. I guess the short answer is yes, but the shock needs some modification.

[TobyG]

Sooooo,
I checked Valve clearences today.

Inlet: 0.05 and 0.15

Exhaust: 0.26 and 0.25 (the 0.25 one, that is with using a lot of force and a good amount of imagination, it's more 0.24 than 0.25)

(as a reminder: specs for inlet valves are 0.03 to 0.11, exhaust ones are 0.25 to 0.33

So, should I only change the shim of the 0.15 one or should I also change any others, especially regarding the 0.25ish one?

[tomatoe333]

Originally Posted by TobyG

Sooooo,
I checked Valve clearences today.

Inlet: 0.05 and 0.15

Exhaust: 0.26 and 0.25 (the 0.25 one, that is with using a lot of force and a good amount of imagination, it's more 0.24 than 0.25)

(as a reminder: specs for inlet valves are 0.03 to 0.11, exhaust ones are 0.25 to 0.33

So, should I only change the shim of the 0.15 one or should I also change any others, especially regarding the 0.25ish one?

I'd change the shims on both exhaust valves to be on the wide end of the clearance range while you're in there. They'll only get tighter as you put more miles on the bike. I'm wondering why the intakes are so far off, maybe some carbon on the seat of one of them? In any case, the intakes won't wear down the valve seats the way the exhaust side will, so anywhere in the spec is probably okay.

[TobyG]

Originally Posted by tomatoe333

I'd change the shims on both exhaust valves to be on the wide end of the clearance range while you're in there. They'll only get tighter as you put more miles on the bike. I'm wondering why the intakes are so far off, maybe some carbon on the seat of one of them? In any case, the intakes won't wear down the valve seats the way the exhaust side will, so anywhere in the spec is probably okay.

Sounds good to me, thanks.


I have no idea why their are off by that much, I've just been riding that bike for ~ 9000 km. I will go and check wether there is any carbon on any of them tomorrow.

[grumpyoldbstrd]

The bike: 2005 Dakar with 260,000 kms (had it since new).

Averaging 50,000 kms out of the OEM water pump kit, however the last one only got 8,000 kms. I think the shaft bush in the cover plate is now knackered. The impeller shaft gears have also been replaced.

I’m getting sick of the original system (and its inherent faults) and thinking of installing a Davies Graig electric water pump (the 9001 kit). Flow rate = 15 litres/min @ 10 kPa. Max current = 1.3A. Operating voltage = 9V DC to 15V DC. Weight = 245 grams, hose size = 19mm. Overall size = 97mm x 85mm. Motor = 12V brushless. Operating temp = -40 to 120 degrees C.

My questions: Has anyone else done this? If so, how did you mount the pump? Can the pump simply be mounted in line? How did you plug the existing hole in the side case for the impeller shaft? Will it be OK to wire it up so that it activates with ignition? Will the flow rate be adequate?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,
GOB

[TobyG]

Originally Posted by grumpyoldbstrd

The bike: 2005 Dakar with 260,000 kms (had it since new).

Averaging 50,000 kms out of the OEM water pump kit, however the last one only got 8,000 kms. I think the shaft bush in the cover plate is now knackered. The impeller shaft gears have also been replaced.

I’m getting sick of the original system (and its inherent faults) and thinking of installing a Davies Graig electric water pump (the 9001 kit). Flow rate = 15 litres/min @ 10 kPa. Max current = 1.3A. Operating voltage = 9V DC to 15V DC. Weight = 245 grams, hose size = 19mm. Overall size = 97mm x 85mm. Motor = 12V brushless. Operating temp = -40 to 120 degrees C.

My questions: Has anyone else done this? If so, how did you mount the pump? Can the pump simply be mounted in line? How did you plug the existing hole in the side case for the impeller shaft? Will it be OK to wire it up so that it activates with ignition? Will the flow rate be adequate?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,
GOB

Over on F650.com there are several guys who installed an electric/external water pump:

http://f650.com/forum/showthread.php...-modification/

http://f650.com/forum/showthread.php...nal-WP-Mounted

http://f650.com/forum/showthread.php...ft-Hole-Closed

[BeachGuy]

Originally Posted by grumpyoldbstrd

I’m getting sick of the original system (and its inherent faults) and thinking of installing a Davies Graig electric water pump (the 9001 kit). Flow rate = 15 litres/min @ 10 kPa. Max current = 1.3A. Operating voltage = 9V DC to 15V DC. Weight = 245 grams, hose size = 19mm. Overall size = 97mm x 85mm. Motor = 12V brushless. Operating temp = -40 to 120 degrees C.


Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,
GOB

After looking the 9001kit, mounting might be a problem.

However, being that the F650 only holds a total of 1.3 litres of water and coolant, I don't think you would have a problem with a pump that flow 15 litres/min.

Does your bike have ABS brakes, if not maybe the pump might fit in that area. Could get hot under the seat thought.

[mischief]

Originally Posted by Baams

Hi quick question, can the OEM shock be repaired or do i need to sell my liver to get a Öhlins before i have the money?

http://www.le-suspension.com/shock-services/
Ed did a good job for me

[Don Coyote]

Has anyone tried or heard of any farkle that would allow you to carry CC skis or a longbow on the cycle? I'm not talking about an $X00 rack, but i don't know what i _am_ talking about...

[KG6BWS]

As in an archery longbow?? Dont know about the skis, but if you unstrung it, the bow should straighten out enough to fit inside 2" pvc pipe. Strap the pipe to the side of the bike and away you go. Ive carried my longer fishing rods like that. Works out good.