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Old 01-13-2013, 09:37 PM   #3601
Ladder106
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1.) Is the balancer chain assembly and are all the sprockets replaceable without splitting the case?
I'd say "Yes". At least from looking at the photos in the previous posts. It's very similar to my Dr750 and DR800 and you can replace balancer chain and sprockets by removing the right side case.

You need to have a puller for the flywheel and a tool to hold the balancer sprockets still while loosening the bolts.

However, this will likely cost you a right case gasket and if gaskets are a problem for you, you'd be ahead by replacing these at the time of the rebuild.

I'd doubt very much if the balancer sprockets would require replacement since the whole system runs in oil all the time. The chain, on the other hand, is known to stretch on higher mileage bikes and should be replaced if the tensioner wheel can no longer remove slack from the system.

A NOTE:

After loosening the bolt that holds the flywheel on.....do not remove the bolt completely before using the puller to remove the flywheel.

You want to push against the bolt and NOT the crank itself.

For some reason these flywheels release very suddenly with a BANG. Keeping the mounting bolt there prevents the flywheel from popping off and flying across the shop floor or hitting you in the chest.

BEWARE OF THREAD LOCKER STUFF/LOCTITE.

Lots of guys rebuild these engines like they are never going to come apart again. Because they are thumpers folks think that red loctite is necessary and I've found it used liberally on two bikes that I've taken apart.

Expect it to be there and make CERTAIN that your tools, particularly allen wrenches are new and fit the fasteners well. If not, you'll spend many hours chasing rounded off hardware and using lots of bad language.
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Old 01-13-2013, 11:39 PM   #3602
@ndy
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Originally Posted by dr_man View Post
But would plastic Acerbis pre-'96 tank fit '90-'91 model? '92-'95 frame is slightly different.
There is one guy that has done it for his '90 it but he said had to made special brackets for it http://drriders.com/search.php?author_id=495&sr=posts
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Old 01-16-2013, 08:33 AM   #3603
sin3kal
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Hoping you guys can help out a fellow pre-96er Not sure if this is the right place for this question but wasn't getting too much love on the DDR site since my bike is a pre 96. Anywho, I have a 93 dr650 that broke the knuckle that attaches to the kickstart shaft (yup it's one of those bikes). Not much in the way of kickstart levers for this bike specifically related to the dr650 that don't cost an arm, a leg, and a wallet. Was wondering if anyone knew if any of the kickstart levers from a dr250 or 200 have the same spline count and diameter on their mounting knuckles. Mods sorry for the cross post, feel free to delete my post in the other thread.
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Old 01-17-2013, 03:04 PM   #3604
GRinCR
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Originally Posted by sin3kal View Post
Not much in the way of kickstart levers for this bike specifically related to the dr650 that don't cost an arm, a leg, and a wallet.
OEM. $89. Brand spanking new for the '93 is the best I see.

Or use the sliced up beer can method to fill the void.
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Old 01-17-2013, 08:33 PM   #3605
rowie
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Originally Posted by pistaMunno View Post
How much fuel does the dr 650 RSE '90 original tank holds including the reserve? Rowie ?
The other day I ran out of fuel (on the main) just as I was riding into a servo. Took 16 litres to fill it to the bottom of the pipe thing that is below the filler hole. Now we know
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Old 01-17-2013, 09:08 PM   #3606
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Originally Posted by Ladder106 View Post
Rowie,

Am in the midst of this with my DR800 as we speak. I'm noticing that things don't line up perfectly when the crank is at TDC.....just about 1/2 link off.

Thinking about it make me feel like I was in error when I said you were one tooth off. Here's why:

To time the balancer shafts, all that really HAS to happen is for the correct number of chain links to be present between the index mark on the crank, the first (rear) balancer shaft and the correct number of links/pins bewteen the crank, rear shaft and the front shaft.

The shafts don't really care if the crank is at TDC or not as long as the spacing between the shafts (correct number of chain pins) is maintained, they HAVE to be in phase with the crank.

So....the only time TDC is really important is when you are installing the cam. Then the crank MUST be at TDC to get valve timing correct.

It seems your engine is running well and not bouncing out of the frame so I'd bet you are all correct.

Maybe reality is just a bit off from the engineering drawings in the manual.

Thanks for including the photos. The only difference between the 650 and the 750/800 is the length between the two balancer shafts and a bit of a longer timing chain. The tensioner and adjusters are identical.
That sounds plausible to me I checked the piston movement and it is at the very top of it's stroke and stayed there for the few degrees that I thought the timing was out. Meaning it theoretically be one tooth out before or after TDC with no ill effects.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladder106 View Post
As a side note:

I've found it beneficial, when adjusting the tension to do this:

Put a wrench on each of the two balancer shafts, loosen the two adjuster bolts, then gently push the two wrenches on the shafts in opposite directlons. What you are doing is purposefully tightening the chain run between the two shafts and allowing ALL the slack to occur below this point in the system. Then the spring can take up all of any existing slack.

It's nice to have one helper to tighten the tensioner screws back down while you're holding the two wrenches on the balancer shafts...otherwise you kinda run out of hands.
That is similar to the procedure shown for the 93 - 95 models.



The sprockets on these models have internal shock loading damper springs. I read there was a problem with the sprocket keys shearing off on the earlier models and they changed to the new design, which is probably why the tensioning procedure was changed.

Cheers,
David.
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Old 01-17-2013, 09:23 PM   #3607
rowie
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Originally Posted by pistaMunno View Post
Thank Rowie
I'll keep the original than so I can put the money towards another mod .
Just starting to taking the engine apart! i"m twitching haha ..
Also browsing thru your posts to see what you have changed/replaced on the mechanical side so I can follow your footsteps... unless you have a list of things to change/replace while opening a 90.000km engine that's been sitting for a while ?
No worries! It's hard to say what condition the internals are in. Mine had done 30 000km, was poorly maintained, and the gears were showing signs of loosing their hard coating. A bare minimum would be piston, rings (maybe a rebore) valve seats and guides, new cam and balance chains and guides. You will know for sure when you rip her guts apart

Cheers,
David.
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Old 01-24-2013, 06:29 AM   #3608
JBradley500
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Talking

My dad has a 94 dr650, with electric start. I dont know what that mean for model numbers but i thought it was weird.

Anyway he's taking it to the bike shop and having them adjust the valves this spring. Are there other things that can be done while its there? I've got a klr650 so im thinking chain tensioner adjustments or anything like that.

-Also this thing is loud and decel backfires.
He asked me to find him a stock or quiet muffler. I've searched and can't find a good answer for him. Anyone have one or know of a replacement?

Also is this carb like a KLR650? Like should i do a "22cent" mod and adjust the mixture screw? Will that help any of the backfiring or power?

Thanks!
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Old 01-24-2013, 07:51 AM   #3609
Ladder106
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Balancer chain adjustment (as discussed in recent posts) is a very good idea.

Also basic maintenance like oil,filter,airfilter etc. If the bike has never had the fork oil changed, that would also be a good idea.

Make certain the shop has a service manual or can bring one up on their computer to assist them with the balancer chain procedure. It's simply but not intuitive just by looking at the mechanism. You'll have to pay for a new left side case gasket that will likely have to be ordered. You may want them to order parts before so the bike doesn't sit in the shop for a week.

Or just print out the diagram from the previous posts and take it with you to the shop.

Watch the drive chain tension since most shops tend to set dual sport bikes up with "street bike" chain tension which is MUCH to tight for a bike with longer travel rear suspension.

Adjusting the idle mixure should solve most loud bangs on deceleration. Some small popping is normal for a big single but you should not have loud "gunshot" sounds. Most likely the idle mix is set too lean from the factory and the screw may be sealed behind an aluminum plug. Since you implied that the silencer is not stock, also look at the joint between the head pipe and the aftermarket silencer or mid-pipe. Air leaks here can also cause a lot of banging.

Lots of guys just slap an aftermarket can onto a bike and expect it to run well. Standard silencers have a lot of engineering built in. They obviously have to pass emissions and sound regs but also want the bike to run as well as it can within those parameters. Most aftermarket cans will require jetting changes to compensate for a huge increase in exhaust flow from stock. Depending on what is back there increasing the pilot jet size, raising the needle and/or increasing the main jet size will likely make the bike much happier.

Stock silencers are a bit of a rarity for bikes approaching 20 years old. If they exist at all they may be found at bike dismantlers. If Suzuki still carries them as a part, they will be very expensive.

You may have to adjust the idle mix about 1/2 turn richer than what is "perfect" when setting the screw at idle. Set it up on a warmed engine at idle and ride it a bit. If is still bangs, richen the screw a bit a try again.

Some of these older bikes also benefit from good quality premium fuel. With a fill-up of only 4 gals or so, using good fuel is not that expensive.

Ladder106 screwed with this post 01-24-2013 at 08:00 AM
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Old 01-28-2013, 02:01 PM   #3610
avianello
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Extemporae Suzuki dr650

Look at what some crazy Italian did to one of our bikes. Nice job!
http://www.bikeexif.com/suzuki-dr650#comment-779487087
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Old 02-02-2013, 06:19 PM   #3611
RestlessRider
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Free stuff

I parted with my '94 DR650 last year.I have a brand new 46T rear sprocket and an oil filter left over. If any one is interested just send me a PM. You would just need to pay for shipping. I have learnt a bit from the collective wisdom in this thread and I am grateful for that.
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Old 02-04-2013, 10:13 AM   #3612
MartinPetren
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Hi, will the side stand from a DR800/750 etc fit one of the pre '96 bikes? I broke my old one and the BIG ones look beefier. Also has anyone tried the progressive springs up front for offroad and can give me some input?
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Old 02-05-2013, 12:39 PM   #3613
markplace
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Springs from Hesslers big dr shop

I bought front and rear springs from Hessler's and have never been happier. I'm a big guy at 270 and asked for appropriate springs. Was surprised by how well they function for my weight. The front springs they sent were full length. No need for spacers. I ran 15w oil 6.5 inches from the top and it has been a great set up. the rear spring was slightly longer than stock and had more turns. Both ends have a progressive feel and fantastic offroad ride. I carried about 50lbs gear off road this last summer with no bottoming or weird handling. Downside...$280 with shipping. I think, I remember it was way more than local prices were when they sold springs for our bikes in the states.

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Old 02-05-2013, 02:00 PM   #3614
MartinPetren
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Originally Posted by markplace View Post
I bought front and rear springs from Hessler's and have never been happier. I'm a big guy at 270 and asked for appropriate springs. Was surprised by well they function for my weight. The front springs they sent were full length. No need for spacers. I ran 15w oil 6.5 inches from the top and it has been a great set up. the rear spring was slightly longer than stock and had more turns. Both ends have a progressive feel and fantastic offroad ride. I carried about 50lbs gear off road this last summer with no bottoming or weird handling. Downside...$280 with shipping. I think, I remember it was way more than local prices were when they sold springs for our bikes in the states.
Thanks! This is what I want to hear :) I am actually on Hessler's page right now.. just waiting to push the button on a few items. Maybe I should add some springs too.. fortunately I live in Sweden so shipping should be cheaper and Euro is quite low now.
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Old 02-05-2013, 05:56 PM   #3615
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Oh good. I remember it was about $90 usd just for shipping. You'll like them. It gave the rear a taller stance too. Looks cooler.
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