KLR650 Engine Rebuild Photos and Questions! - Page 7

rectangular · 01-28-2013, 12:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kawidad

Don't forget to prime the oil pump after disassembly.

On it! I should underline that step in the Clymer manual.

I should have posted build threads like this ages ago. It's good to find out all the stuff I'm doing wrong.

I don't have any actual mechanical training. All of my "experience" is a combination of always taking stuff apart my whole life, and tips from friends or threads on the internet. It's nice picking up better methods and craft from other users that have much more experience.

Dan in Grand Rapids · 01-28-2013, 01:35 PM

Why did you have to have the cylinder honed at a machine shop? I thought the jugs from Eagle Mike were ready to bolt on without having to go to a machine shop.

Beezer · 01-28-2013, 02:31 PM

if you reuse the copper gaskets on the oil fitting banjo bolts you should anneal them. they work harden when torqued up. get them on a coat hanger or something.... heat them to red & dunk them in water. they will be soft as butter. if there are ridges in the washer I file or sand them out before treating

I usually stick the gasket to the cover with RTV & grease the side that goes to the case. it can be removed many times with no damage

the 2 cutouts on the valve cover gasket need something to help them stick. the book shows putting a bead of goop along that whole side, I don't do that. I put a big fat dot of RTV on the outside of the head & over the rubber of the cutout. this is easier to clean up when checking the valves & nothing falls into the engine. YMMV

only thing I would have added to the doo change is to put a couple punch marks on the woodruff key... that keeps it from getting pushed out of the crank when the rotor is installed. this has happened... later in life the rotor slips & the ignition timing goes off

rectangular · 01-28-2013, 02:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dan in Grand Rapids

Why did you have to have the cylinder honed at a machine shop? I thought the jugs from Eagle Mike were ready to bolt on without having to go to a machine shop.

I didn't get a jug from Eagle Mike. There's a pretty awesome local motorcycle machine shop. I had them do all the machine work on the cylinder jug that came with my bike.

rectangular · 01-28-2013, 03:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Beezer

if you reuse the copper gaskets on the oil fitting banjo bolts you should anneal them. they work harden when torqued up. get them on a coat hanger or something.... heat them to red & dunk them in water. they will be soft as butter. if there are ridges in the washer I file or sand them out before treating

I usually stick the gasket to the cover with RTV & grease the side that goes to the case. it can be removed many times with no damage

the 2 cutouts on the valve cover gasket need something to help them stick. the book shows putting a bead of goop along that whole side, I don't do that. I put a big fat dot of RTV on the outside of the head & over the rubber of the cutout. this is easier to clean up when checking the valves & nothing falls into the engine. YMMV

only thing I would have added to the doo change is to put a couple punch marks on the woodruff key... that keeps it from getting pushed out of the crank when the rotor is installed. this has happened... later in life the rotor slips & the ignition timing goes off

I have some new copper gaskets for the banjo bolts.

Sounds like using grease is the way to go so that gaskets can be reused. I like it!

I'm a little paranoid about modifying the woodruff key in case I mess something up. Probably a better chance of me botching that than the woodruff key getting pushed up.

newcastleadam · 01-28-2013, 03:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rectangular

I'm a little paranoid about modifying the woodruff key in case I mess something up. Probably a better chance of me botching that than the woodruff key getting pushed up.

Must have missed this, what's up with your woodruff key?

rectangular · 01-28-2013, 03:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by newcastleadam

Must have missed this, what's up with your woodruff key?

Nothing is wrong. Beezer mentioned above to put some punch marks in it. But, I think I'm going to pass on that. Pretty sure I would mess that up.

DirtyDog · 01-28-2013, 05:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ADW

No, go with an OEM oil filter from Kawasaki. Oil filter aftermarket manufacturers only have to make an oil filter they think you'll buy. Kawasaki's oil filters have to pass a validation test developed by Kawasaki that ensures it will stand up to temperatures, pressures and flow rates that Kawi knows for that engine.

EDIT: no slam meant on DirtyDog, BTW.

We aren't gonna turn this into an oil or filter debate, but your paranoia regarding oil filters is odd to me. I suggested Hi-Flo due to the price point (half or less of OEM).

Let's not kid ourselves about the tolerance levels and high performance specs of this motor from 1980's vintage technology. A KLR would probably run for years with a wadded up shop rag jammed in there instead of an oil filter.

newcastleadam · 01-28-2013, 06:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DirtyDog

Let's not kid ourselves about the tolerance levels and high performance specs of this motor from 1980's vintage technology. A KLR would probably run for years with a wadded up shop rag jammed in there instead of an oil filter.

Brilliant

DanishDR · 01-28-2013, 07:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DirtyDog

Let's not kid ourselves about the tolerance levels and high performance specs of this motor from 1980's vintage technology. A KLR would probably run for years with a wadded up shop rag jammed in there instead of an oil filter.

First, I agree that the tiny difference will probably make no difference in filtration on this motor. That being said, I was surprised when we pulled the K&N to see such a premium filter with such blatant seal issues. Perhaps it wasn't the right filter or the seals had some issues.

rectangular · 01-28-2013, 10:13 PM

I had some spare time tonight to get in and look at the oil pump. It seems to me that it has some signs of wear, but I don't think it's to the point of affecting it's function. The surface feels considerably smooth. I think the photos make it look more scratched that it actually is. It feels completely smooth to the touch. Rotating the gear also seems to be extremely smooth. It doesn't feel like it catches or hangs unequally at any point.

I think it's fine to use, but I'd love some second opinions. Is this considered scoring? Or would this be borderline? This seems to be in just as good, if not better condition than all the oil pump images on ebay.

The Clymer manual states: "Visually inspect all parts for obvious wear or damage. Component specifications are not available for the oil pump."

(Inadvertent middle finger!)

Unfortunately, I wasn't able to completely get the gasket off in perfect condition. So, I'll have to wait until I pick this gasket up before I can re-re-assemble the right side cover. Fortunately, I think it will go pretty quickly. I'm getting a lot more familiar with this engine.

Beezer · 01-28-2013, 10:53 PM

looks like new... run it

as for the punch marks... just a couple small dimples so the key fits the slot tighter. this can really reduce the frustration level when reinstalling the rotor, the key is very easy to knock out of place

ADW · 01-29-2013, 02:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DirtyDog

We aren't gonna turn this into an oil or filter debate, but your paranoia regarding oil filters is odd to me. I suggested Hi-Flo due to the price point (half or less of OEM).

Let's not kid ourselves about the tolerance levels and high performance specs of this motor from 1980's vintage technology. A KLR would probably run for years with a wadded up shop rag jammed in there instead of an oil filter.

My day job is with a large auto manufacturer, and I am in the engineering team that sees the results of aftermarket oil filters that can't handle the job. So it's not paranoia, it's actual personal experience in an engineering environment. The KLR may well be an older design, but my statement still stands. I want a filter the manufacturer has signed off on being able to complete the tasks they expect it to. And agreed let's not hijack this thread, the OP's doing a great job of documenting a rebuild.

Kawidad · 01-29-2013, 07:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Beezer

looks like new... run it

Agreed

rectangular · 01-29-2013, 08:57 AM

Glad that everyone agrees the oil pump is good-to-go! Now I'm basically just waiting on gaskets and my refreshed head from Eagle Mike.

I picked up some 10w40 non-synthetic castrol motorcycle oil for engine break in.

Also... it has been snowing a lot in Salt Lake City. I won't be able to start it up until the roads clear a little bit so that I can properly complete break in. But, I'm probably getting a little bit ahead of myself.

01-28-2013, 10:13 PM	#101
rectangular ^OP Adventurer Joined: Mar 2011 Location: Salt Lake City, UT Oddometer: 46	Oil pump pictures! I had some spare time tonight to get in and look at the oil pump. It seems to me that it has some signs of wear, but I don't think it's to the point of affecting it's function. The surface feels considerably smooth. I think the photos make it look more scratched that it actually is. It feels completely smooth to the touch. Rotating the gear also seems to be extremely smooth. It doesn't feel like it catches or hangs unequally at any point. I think it's fine to use, but I'd love some second opinions. Is this considered scoring? Or would this be borderline? This seems to be in just as good, if not better condition than all the oil pump images on ebay. The Clymer manual states: "Visually inspect all parts for obvious wear or damage. Component specifications are not available for the oil pump." (Inadvertent middle finger!) Unfortunately, I wasn't able to completely get the gasket off in perfect condition. So, I'll have to wait until I pick this gasket up before I can re-re-assemble the right side cover. Fortunately, I think it will go pretty quickly. I'm getting a lot more familiar with this engine.

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01-28-2013, 01:35 PM	#92
Dan in Grand Rapids Adventurer Joined: Dec 2011 Location: Grand Rapids Oddometer: 25	Why did you have to have the cylinder honed at a machine shop? I thought the jugs from Eagle Mike were ready to bolt on without having to go to a machine shop.

01-28-2013, 02:31 PM	#93
Beezer Beastly Adventurer Joined: Oct 2004 Location: Anchorage, formerly Spenard (hub of the universe) Oddometer: 4,477	if you reuse the copper gaskets on the oil fitting banjo bolts you should anneal them. they work harden when torqued up. get them on a coat hanger or something.... heat them to red & dunk them in water. they will be soft as butter. if there are ridges in the washer I file or sand them out before treating I usually stick the gasket to the cover with RTV & grease the side that goes to the case. it can be removed many times with no damage the 2 cutouts on the valve cover gasket need something to help them stick. the book shows putting a bead of goop along that whole side, I don't do that. I put a big fat dot of RTV on the outside of the head & over the rubber of the cutout. this is easier to clean up when checking the valves & nothing falls into the engine. YMMV only thing I would have added to the doo change is to put a couple punch marks on the woodruff key... that keeps it from getting pushed out of the crank when the rotor is installed. this has happened... later in life the rotor slips & the ignition timing goes off

01-28-2013, 10:53 PM	#102
Beezer Beastly Adventurer Joined: Oct 2004 Location: Anchorage, formerly Spenard (hub of the universe) Oddometer: 4,477	looks like new... run it as for the punch marks... just a couple small dimples so the key fits the slot tighter. this can really reduce the frustration level when reinstalling the rotor, the key is very easy to knock out of place

01-29-2013, 08:57 AM	#105
rectangular ^OP Adventurer Joined: Mar 2011 Location: Salt Lake City, UT Oddometer: 46	Glad that everyone agrees the oil pump is good-to-go! Now I'm basically just waiting on gaskets and my refreshed head from Eagle Mike. I picked up some 10w40 non-synthetic castrol motorcycle oil for engine break in. Also... it has been snowing a lot in Salt Lake City. I won't be able to start it up until the roads clear a little bit so that I can properly complete break in. But, I'm probably getting a little bit ahead of myself.