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Old 01-28-2013, 07:49 PM   #32776
30Bones
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Joined: Oct 2005
Location: Marion, IA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UtahFox View Post
I'm still thinking about the 13L hard cases at Happy Trails, but again, will probably go with soft panniers & a lockable topbox.
I like the value of these boxes and I am not a fan of hard cases on dual sports at all after a nice get off on my KLR and mermites. Could have really tore my leg up.

Cable locks may work, but if it's left alone I would not trust it..I mean anyone not to mess with it. A small/cheap top box would be the best bet even though they are ugly.
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Old 01-28-2013, 09:02 PM   #32777
Fuzzy Wrench
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Joined: Jan 2013
Location: Golden, BC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldtrucks View Post
While looking for an Ignition Hot to tap into I shorted and lost power to my ignition, headlight, tail light, brake lights, horn, and dash console. The blinkers still work and the fuel pump powers up fine. I checked all the fuses and they're all good which makes me think I did something to the Relay Assembly.

Anyone know of a way to check the Relay before I spend the $
oldtrucks, just curious what led you to suspect the relay unit...it seems all the things that don't work are all on the same fuse: 10A signal fuse...it feeds all that you listed, even the power to the start relay and the console...I would recheck that fuse and the associated wiring (the brown wire) which goes to everything you lost...
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Old 01-28-2013, 09:13 PM   #32778
Attico
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I believe there is a fuse in the headlight shroud. I've been meaning to go poking around so i know where to look should i have any issues, but haven't done it yet. Maybe someone can chime in...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuzzy Wrench View Post
oldtrucks, just curious what led you to suspect the relay unit...it seems all the things that don't work are all on the same fuse: 10A signal fuse...it feeds all that you listed, even the power to the start relay and the console...I would recheck that fuse and the associated wiring (the brown wire) which goes to everything you lost...
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Old 01-28-2013, 09:20 PM   #32779
BlueLghtning
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Joined: Feb 2004
Location: Newnan, GA
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WTB: TCI Sequoia Rack or Denali Rack

Hey, do any of the WRR/WRX owners have a TCI Sequoia or TCI Denali rack they want to get rid of?

I had Sequoia rack on my Husky TE610 and really liked it, plus my wife has one on her XT225 that she enjoys. They seem to be pretty nice and stout racks.
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Old 01-29-2013, 12:43 AM   #32780
amtz.zero
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Joined: Mar 2011
Location: Moreno Valley, CA
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Question

These questions are for the people who have gone up to a 46 tooth rear sprocket.

Did your overall top speed decrease?

What is riding on the freeway like now? The dirt?

Are 1st and 2nd gears even shorter now?

Sorry for all the questions, but I am contemplating putting a 46t sprocket on my bike and I don't want to regret it. Thanks for any replies.
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Old 01-29-2013, 02:57 AM   #32781
goroka
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Location: Sunshine Coast, Qld, Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amtz.zero View Post
These questions are for the people who have gone up to a 46 tooth rear sprocket.

Did your overall top speed decrease?

What is riding on the freeway like now? The dirt?

Are 1st and 2nd gears even shorter now?

Sorry for all the questions, but I am contemplating putting a 46t sprocket on my bike and I don't want to regret it. Thanks for any replies.

Not sure if this helps:

I run a 48 tooth rear and 13 tooth front. According to my GPS I deduct 14.4% from the bike reading to get a true road speed/distance. At 100km/h indicated I am doing about 84km/h. (About 60mph gives about 51 mph)

Most of my riding is off road so this isnt an issue - when I am on the open road I have to be sitting on about 117km/h to be doing 100km/h. Result is that I am aware that I am running that much higher in revs. As far as 1st and 2nd gear is concerned I find that the gearing suits me fine in the hills that I ride in. Yes - they will be shorter - I think 2nd now is probably closer to first with standard gearing just based on feel.

Cheers
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Old 01-29-2013, 03:43 AM   #32782
MentalGuru
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Need a good laugh??? Read the following quote from the CRFL owners thread.

Follow the link and share your thoughts... It's only fair....

Quote:
Originally Posted by mtntrails View Post
CRF250L Owners.... Please chime in on this thread...

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=858964
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Old 01-29-2013, 04:17 AM   #32783
mtntrails
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MentalGuru View Post
Need a good laugh??? Read the following quote from the CRFL owners thread.

Follow the link and share your thoughts... It's only fair....




I would particularly like to hear your thoughts on the price points of these two bikes. Does Yamaha need to lower the MSRP of the WRR? If so, by how much?
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Old 01-29-2013, 04:29 AM   #32784
MentalGuru
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtntrails View Post
I would particularly like to hear your thoughts on the price points of these two bikes. Does Yamaha need to lower the MSRP of the WRR? If so, by how much?

Why would Yamaha need to lower it's price point. It is designed to compete with KTM's and such. The price point is right on the money.

The CRF250L is a parts bin bike made to compete against the Yamaha XT and be an entry level dual sport bike. It's price point is is right on the money for the bikes that compete for that market segment.

They are both properly priced to compete with bikes in there market segments.

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Old 01-29-2013, 04:36 AM   #32785
inroads
Wimberley,Texas
 
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Could one you WR heads tell me if there is any real difference between a 2002 WR 250F and WR 250 R besides the F.I.,electric start and being street legal?
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Old 01-29-2013, 05:19 AM   #32786
YZEtc
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Joined: Nov 2010
Location: Connecticut
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inroads View Post
Could one you WR heads tell me if there is any real difference between a 2002 WR 250F and WR 250 R besides the F.I.,electric start and being street legal?
They are two different models made from different parts, but the Yamaha marketing team gave them similar names.

I owned a 2008 WR-250R (and a 2008 WR-250X).
I now own and ride a 2002 WR-250F.

What do you want to know about the bikes?
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Old 01-29-2013, 05:34 AM   #32787
inroads
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Is there any real difference between a F and a R? Besides electric start,street legal and F.I.
IOW, aren't the engines and chassis/suspension similar?
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Old 01-29-2013, 05:39 AM   #32788
inroads
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I am asking because I have an opportunity to buy a 2002 WR 250F for $1250.
That is about $2.5K cheaper than the best deal on an WR 250R.
If all im losing is street legal,electric start and F.I. then its a no brainer.

inroads screwed with this post 01-29-2013 at 05:51 AM
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Old 01-29-2013, 06:02 AM   #32789
jefmad
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Joined: Jan 2007
Location: Madison, WI
Oddometer: 629
Quote:
Originally Posted by inroads View Post
Is there any real difference between a F and a R? Besides electric start,street legal and F.I.
IOW, aren't the engines and chassis/suspension similar?
Inroads,
The engine, frame, and suspension are completely different o those 2 bikes. There is not 1 part in common between them.
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Old 01-29-2013, 06:10 AM   #32790
Crawdaddy
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Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Ramona, CA.
Oddometer: 2,195
Quote:
Originally Posted by inroads View Post
I am asking because I have an opportunity to buy a 2002 WR 250F for $1250.
That is about $2.5K cheaper than the best deal on an WR 250R.
If all im losing is street legal,electric start and F.I. then its a no brainer.
If you're just looking for a cheap off-road toy you ouighta snap it up......MUCH lighter/snappier than the WR250R........

BUT, if you're looking for a commuter/ADV bike you will not be pleased with the WR250F.......figure out what you want, then the decision is easy......

Google the WR250F and you'll see all the differences......
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