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Old 01-28-2013, 01:53 PM   #31
eatpasta
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Originally Posted by dzrtracin View Post
Just an update, not that anyone cares, but here ya go. Ends up one of my non ADV riding buddies best friend does nothing but epoxy floors for a living, funny how things work out Lots of work left to do on the man cave but im happy so far




RIDE ON!


I just had a garagegasim
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Old 01-28-2013, 01:59 PM   #32
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Nice. I found after I did my garage I'd freak out if anything got on the floor. But after time you'll get a few wear spots and marks and you'll ignore it as its just a floor.
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Old 01-28-2013, 02:01 PM   #33
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Can I spill the first beer on it?
Feb 16th, they'll probably be a few
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Old 01-28-2013, 05:29 PM   #34
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That came out BOSS!

liking that tv you got in there too.
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Old 01-29-2013, 04:10 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by Kali Trailrider View Post
Spoke to shawn today seems we will move forward working together.

I advised him to go to my supplier and choose his base coat and flake color.
With no pressure from me... Read the labels talk to the reps and ask questions.
He still has an option to do it himself.

But I will be happy to do it if asked.

Here are the steps for anyone that wants to do it.
Anyone should be able to do it in two days allowing for drying time.

Let dry for two days once finished and you can park your cars on it!!

Here are the steps...
Sanding and grinding rough concrete as needed (this is probably the hardest part)
Acid bath to etch concrete - this will allow the epoxy to bond and remove grease and oils
Mask off area to be painted
Primer coat and top coat ( two coats)
Add flakes on wet top coat
Scape off loose flakes and sweep clean
Roll on final clear coat


Buy the good materials... Dont be cheap.
Once you put the cheap stuff on your screwed and it will peel.

After you are done it looks like a million bucks and the money you spent you will be glad you did!!

Thats all folks!!
My garage concrete has a white powder come up thru the concrete during wet weather even though the floor stays dry. The driveways, patios, shop and barn are all about the same level as the garage and have never produced the powder. Can this garage floor be epoxied and what about the powder in subsequent years?

Chuck
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Old 01-30-2013, 10:18 AM   #36
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I did my garage with rustoleum (or whatever homedepot was selling). it was a new construction (foundation poured 6 months prior) in 2005.

use the flakes unless you want to fall on your ass when it's wet.

the coating is holding up OK. wet tires will leave marks. I do absolutely no maintenance on the floor other than sweeping so there are lots of stains. not sure if they are permanent.
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Old 01-30-2013, 07:31 PM   #37
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whie powder

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Originally Posted by Hookalatch View Post
My garage concrete has a white powder come up thru the concrete during wet weather even though the floor stays dry. The driveways, patios, shop and barn are all about the same level as the garage and have never produced the powder. Can this garage floor be epoxied and what about the powder in subsequent years?

Chuck
get an expert on this issue

my guess is that IF the epoxy is a 100% moisture proof seal your effluoresence is a non-issue.
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Old 02-01-2013, 10:19 AM   #38
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how long you guys letting this stuff dry for? no way i could have all my shit outside for 4 days!
Move everything to one side & paint the other. When it cures, move your junk to the other side . . . takes twice as long, but at least your stuff isn't outside.

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Yeah you could go that route... but you will be sorry you did.

Heat from a car's tire will generally make the paint peal.
I used rustoleum (home depot) after reading about all the dire warnings of "hot tire pick up" (living in AZ we hear a lot of it). After almost 10 years of parking a 7,000 pound truck on it in Tucson- I'm convinced that it isn't an issue if you follow the destructions on the box. Sure, it won't last as long or look as nice as some of the better quality products out there - but having it peel off due to a hot tire just doesn't seem to be an issue. Mine lost the luster a few years ago, and a few spots are getting kind of thin (mainly where I drag shit across it), but for the price - it was a solid deal. It's not like my garage is a showroom or anything . . .
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Old 02-01-2013, 04:59 PM   #39
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I'd like to do my garage this summer. Are these kits using Muratic Acid? Do you throw that down and then hose it off? If that's the case, I'm concerned about getting it out on the street and pissing off the neighbors.
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Old 02-01-2013, 09:47 PM   #40
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I'd like to do my garage this summer. Are these kits using Muratic Acid? Do you throw that down and then hose it off? If that's the case, I'm concerned about getting it out on the street and pissing off the neighbors.
The boys diamond grinded my floor, according to them if you do acid wash it will need an additional day to dry out properly, of course that really depends on the weather as well.

RIDE ON!
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Old 02-02-2013, 07:32 PM   #41
Roadracer_Al
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Originally Posted by Fubars View Post
I'd like to do my garage this summer. Are these kits using Muratic Acid? Do you throw that down and then hose it off? If that's the case, I'm concerned about getting it out on the street and pissing off the neighbors.
How DID I KNOW that you live in CA. I like most of my neighbors, but one of the crunchy hippies up the street reported her neighbor for painting his house. She was ranting about lead abatement requirements.
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Old 02-02-2013, 07:49 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by Roadracer_Al View Post
How DID I KNOW that you live in CA. I like most of my neighbors, but one of the crunchy hippies up the street reported her neighbor for painting his house. She was ranting about lead abatement requirements.
She probably chewed to much on her lead based painted baby crib wile in diapers and doesn't want anyone ending up like her.



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Old 02-03-2013, 11:40 AM   #43
Roadracer_Al
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I do have a question about the acid wash -- does the acid vapor cause rust problems?

My garage is adjacent to my shop, I have a number of precision machine tools which I'd be upset if they rusted. I expect this might be an issue if you do half your garage at a time, too.

Anyone have problems with this?
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Old 02-03-2013, 02:44 PM   #44
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Wow this thread keeps going

I personally dont think the half and half approach is worth the effort. It seems like you would waste some expensive material unless you mixed the perfect amount each time. Wait for good weather and maybe push everything into your back yard. Trying to etch one side of the garage and epoxy and then do the other side??

I think you guys are making this a lot harder then it is.

Anyone who is planning to use muriatic acid/hydrochoric acid (mixed with water in solution of course) to etch concrete or to remove grease/oil should also neutralize it before washing is down the drive or street.

Just use some baking soda sprinkle it over the wet surface after scrubbing the acid bath solution in and you are satisfied with the results. Scrub the baking soda in a little. You can check the PH after with ph strips from any pool suppy place. Ph of 7 is neutal and that is what you want before you wash it down the street. Otherwise you will etch everything down the driveway to the crub and beyond.

Will it rust no... Water is what causes rust so if it is fully dry you shouldn't have a problem with rust. unless the there is a lot of moisture in your area (maybe close to the beach???)

Dudes??? there is so much stuff about this subject on the internet. Get the facts!!

How do you know I know what I am talking about???
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Old 02-03-2013, 03:11 PM   #45
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I would like to pass on a couple of ideas about the topic at hand.

First, with all coating be it paint over wood, urethane or epoxy on concrete floors or even mortar for tile laying, the substrate preparation is the key to a successful installation.

The preparation for concrete for epoxy should include the following:

1) A clean concrete floor.

Muriatic, or any acid for that matter, does not remove oil and grease. You should seek a product made specifically for degreasing. Follow the instructions and remove all traces of the degreaser and lifted oil or grease when finished.

2) A method to create surface profile.

Muriatic, or hydrochloric, acid will create surface profile, however, if not strongly diluted, the fumes may cause surface rust to appear on any ferrous metals. Further, if the applicator doesn't have appropriate respiratory protection, it could be harmful to the applicators respiratory system.

If you are going to use muriatic acid, you must also neutralize the acid with a base like baking soda. I would think that in California there are some fairly stringent rules about muriatic acid run off. I would strongly suggest that you don't use muriatic.

A better method to create surface profile would be to shot blast the concrete. I would imagine you could find a contractor in your area that would shotblast the concrete for you. Either way, with muriatic or shotblasting, you are generally looking for an 80ish grit sandpaper feel to the concrete.

Oh, and even though the shotblaster will vacuum the concrete as it blasts, you will still need to rinse the floor of dust.

3) Properly cured concrete.

Properly cured concrete generally reaches 97% of it's compressive strength in seven days. Most commercial floor coating manufacturer's would likely say the barest minimum cure time for the concrete prior to the application of coating would be 28 days, but I like the idea of giving the concrete plenty of time to cure.

4) A dry substrate. Maybe.

Most one hundred percent solids epoxies are moisture insensitive and can be applied to damp concrete. As a flooring contractor, I don't usually like to apply any coating over damp substrates, but sometimes, there is that need. Of course, whatever product you choose to use would drive what condition the concrete needs to be in. I would choose dry over damp.

5) A properly functioning vapor barrier.

If you have no vapor barrier under your concrete, you run the risk of moisture drive to the back of the applied epoxy and the resultant de-lamination. If you don't have a vapor barrier under the concrete or you don't know, there are products that can be applied to the top of the concrete prior to the application of epoxy that will block any moisture to the back of the coating.

Good luck.
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