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Old 01-29-2013, 03:41 PM   #16
supershaft
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disston View Post
The 17.5 gears are supposed to have an X on them. I have heard the same thing SS mentions that there are a few with no X but are X gears. You usually can't see the X until the gear is off the shaft.

I didn't know before that the angle is a reference to the sharpness of the teeth and not the slant of the teeth. I thought it was the slant.
A lot of people think that. That's how the gears get mixed in some cases. That's why some people talk about the changed PFA effecting end play and axial load. It doesn't. What it effects is where each individual tooth along the height of the tooth contacts the next tooth and transfers the load.
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Old 01-29-2013, 03:45 PM   #17
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so if you were to engage an X and a non X gear the teeth will not mesh properly while matching gears will ?
In other words, matching gear teeth will engage fully, down to the root of the tooth, while non matching gears won't.
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Old 01-29-2013, 03:51 PM   #18
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so if you were to engage an X and a non X gear the teeth will not mesh properly while matching gears will ?
I have seen it done numerous times working hear and there. They fit together just fine. They do make a bit more noise from the get go. From what I have seen, it takes 5 or 10k miles for them to eat themselves. That they will do! Very unfortunately, I have seen some pure unobtainium close ratio intermediate shafts F'ed up for it. Man I wish I had those F'ed up shafts now that I know you can swap those gears!
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Old 01-29-2013, 04:43 PM   #19
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I would have thought that if the tooth angle is different that non matching gears would not engage the same depth as matching ones. What I'm getting is that You have a couple of shafts in your hand and you're trying to figure out whether you can replace one with the other by engaging the two gears and looking at how deeply they engage. I'll probably be doing that on Saturday since I have to replace the gear on an input shaft and will be looking at some used shafts to source the parts from.
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Old 01-29-2013, 05:30 PM   #20
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has anyone actually shortened the shaft?
anyone ?
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Old 01-29-2013, 05:46 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kai Ju View Post
I would have thought that if the tooth angle is different that non matching gears would not engage the same depth as matching ones. What I'm getting is that You have a couple of shafts in your hand and you're trying to figure out whether you can replace one with the other by engaging the two gears and looking at how deeply they engage. I'll probably be doing that on Saturday since I have to replace the gear on an input shaft and will be looking at some used shafts to source the parts from.
That isn't it at all. Non matching gears engage the exact same depth. They just touch each other at a different height on the teeth. You can't see it the way you are describing it.
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Old 01-29-2013, 06:29 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by supershaft View Post
That isn't it at all. Non matching gears engage the exact same depth. They just touch each other at a different height on the teeth. You can't see it the way you are describing it.
Then I best be looking for that X, don't I ?
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Old 01-29-2013, 06:53 PM   #23
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yup
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Old 01-30-2013, 07:36 AM   #24
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has anyone actually shortened the shaft?
Yes it has been done this way. It is mentioned on Snowbum's site but I don't think he talks about what happens with the push rod length. Does it also get chopped? I'd have to compare myself to be sure. I think the push rod stays as is. But I'm not sure.

Do use some kind of an air powered rotory tool with a fresh cutting wheel. Or I guess make do with what ever you got. Also bevel the edge of the cut.

Big advantage of course is this can be done with the trans assembled.
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Old 01-30-2013, 09:03 AM   #25
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You probably need to use the later pushrod. The tip is hardened
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Old 01-30-2013, 10:03 AM   #26
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I don't think so Charles. My understanding is the push rods are different lengths, they go with the cover, bearing set up, so I don't think you can use a later push rod unless you use a later cover. I might be wrong though.

Mr Bum makes no mention of the push rod. I guess I should think this means it works as is. I don't think he ever passes up an opportunity to add a couple extra paragraphs to his web pages, does he?
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Old 01-30-2013, 10:27 AM   #27
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Dissiton,

I have a feeling that you are right.
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Old 01-30-2013, 12:08 PM   #28
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Like a lot things on mr. bum's site, going on and on about something does not necessarily mean that it has been done at all and if it has been done it certainly does not mean it will work as well as other methods if it works at all.

It sounds like it would work. In practice? I bet cutting that shaft is easier said that done. Especially without ruining the temper on those splines.
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Old 01-30-2013, 12:19 PM   #29
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