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Old 01-29-2013, 09:27 PM   #376
tete OP
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Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Gilbert Az
Oddometer: 348
Perhaps I'm not asking the correct question. Other than the rings, what perhaps could cause the smoke from the right exhaust. More specifically at Highr rpm and when letting off the throttle. Please advise. I'm loosing some serious sleep about this.\
---------------------------------------------Hours later Edit----------------------------------------------------

So i started going through as many threads as possible to help with this smoke issue.. I curently don't have any tools to measure compression and won't have any new tools for a while because I am broke. I just barely got enough cash to put on new tires.

Moving right along I saw that in many instances its the left cyclinder that generally shows signs of smoke.. however this really means nothing.

I did notice a few post in which many indicated that the breather system dumps into the right cylinder or something of the sort. And the turkey noise as well. Well it happens that Before my ride today my buddy and I - airhead airheads- were talking about how our bikes make that weird turkey gobble sound for lack of better desciption. anyone care to elaborate on this? My bike feels and runs like a champ, starts with ease etc.. no oil light on etc.. tends to smoke when I let off the throttle from higher than 4k rpm. at low RPMs seems to be ok.

sorry about my grammer.
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tete screwed with this post 01-29-2013 at 10:56 PM
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Old 01-30-2013, 03:02 AM   #377
disston
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It may be a problem with the Turkey Valve. It is the engine breather system. Continue reading what ever you can find about this, both here and on the web. I can't tell you it is the Turkey Valve, would be nice if it was is all I know.

Are you using 20w-50 oil? We won't go into what oil or what additives, API rating, or anything else. If you are running 10w-40 because it is Winter then I suggest you start running 20w-50. This may cut down on the smoke while you are taking care of the problem.

How many miles on this bike? How many miles since new rings, rebuilt heads, or any major engine work?

You will need $100 for gaskets and parts to remove the heads, $500 for rebuilding cylinder heads and more money for piston/rings work but can't say what you need till it is apart and measured.
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Old 01-30-2013, 03:39 AM   #378
tete OP
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Damn. the bike has 96k miles. I don't have any history of work on the bike. It sat for ten years in wealthy mans garage. I bought it from his son when he passed. I got it running with your help more so than anyone else's. which I greatly appreciate still. Regardless I will try everything first, if that means running 20-50w and figuring out the turkey valve thing first. Is the valve accessible w/o removing te jug head assembly?
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Old 01-30-2013, 06:42 AM   #379
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Yes Tete, I remember when you got this bike. I don't remember all the details but I do remember you've been one of the best students I've ever known. Unlike many we see here you have the guts to hang with it. It's not easy I know.

At any where from 90K to 120K these bikes are well worn and many of them are in need of extensive rebuilding. There's a guy here with 250K on an original Airhead motor and everybody else thinks they will do the same. Thatr is rare. It's so rare I actually don't believe him. I'm not calling him a lier but it's either that or he has made a mistake in his records.

Start running BMW Brand 20W-50 Dinosaur (not Synthetic) motor oil. Do not even think about the promises of a New World Order where machines run forever on piss made by the Gods of Capitalism. If you can't get BMW brand motor oil, usually only available at BMW dealers, then use Spectro (they make BMW oil).

I think you should buy a compression gauge. Get a used one from Ebay. I bought one 6 months ago for less than $20. One of the cheaper push in types work fine on Airheads, the screw in type are more expensive and if you are buying used the threads may be messed up.

Here is what looks like a good deal. It also has screw in but it has push in. If any of the adapters are messed up they may be available. The rubber tips look good. And it has the original box.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Compression-...6dad7d&vxp=mtr

Start saving your nickles and dimes. These are great bikes and they are usually cheap to start with but they will need work to keep running. Most of us have much more into these bikes than they are worth.
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Old 01-30-2013, 07:02 AM   #380
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If you buy a push in type compression tester used beware of worn out rubber tips. They will sometimes still work but you can't tell. So don't get any that have a bad picture or a worn out tip. the bad picture is to hide the fact the tip is worn out. You can buy the tips sometimes but they will cost more than the whole tool.


This is a really old one. It may still work but the tip is worn out.
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Old 01-30-2013, 12:05 PM   #381
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ok Ill get on this. Worst case scenario I'll ride it here and there till summer where I can save money. In the mean time I believe I can afford the gauge by next paycheck. The Oil I will I will get on right away.


Thanks
T
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Old 01-30-2013, 12:11 PM   #382
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Using 20w-50 oil will help a lot. It is what you are supposed to be using.
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Old 03-11-2013, 01:08 AM   #383
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Ok for starters I had the wrong oil. I finally got the right stuff replaced the oil pan gasket and new filter and oil.

Also modified to have the crankcase spit into a can outside the carb here are the pics. Some won't like that I cut a little but I found no other way around as the bend was too tight. Next up replace the turkey valve with proper Reed type.






Ill post better pics when totally done.
The hose coming out of the crank vent is kinda ugly and will only get uglier till I find a Bette looking solution. But having a clear one will let me know how much is kicking out and when.
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Old 03-11-2013, 11:17 PM   #384
tete OP
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Took her out for a decent ride today. Saw no signs of smoke from the right side or leaks coming from the pan. Still have push rod leak but at this point that is expected. Till I rebuild over the summer.

The crank case vent is just dumping to open air until I set my can up. I put the proper bmw oil in there this time.

Rides smooth
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Old 03-11-2013, 11:33 PM   #385
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Awesome. Springtime. Ride time.
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Old 03-12-2013, 03:51 AM   #386
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I am also doing an 'oil breather collector' and thinking about leaving it inside the engine, below the breather valve. I am not comfortable with drilling the air filter side cover. This guy has done a god job on it's Harley.

http://tearitupfixitrepeat.blogspot....collector.html
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Old 03-12-2013, 04:04 AM   #387
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The problem w the way mine is set up is the stock air filter element is in the way and there is not enough room to bend and not crimp the hose. The way I set it up was the best way for me not to restrict / oil airflow. I hope to make it look cleaner. I do like the canister he made. Really clean idea which I will totally rip off. Lol.
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Old 03-12-2013, 05:12 AM   #388
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Maybe you're right. I still have to get my hands dirty to see what can be done.
Canister is a must do
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Old 03-25-2013, 06:01 AM   #389
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There is a real clean way to bring the breather hose out but if you already hacked a hole in the cover...well..a bit late. I sleep on my ideas for a week or two (or more) before doing anything I can't reverse.

if you haven't changed the fork oil by now you are going to get to learn about rebuilding forks. must be changed yearly. Ditto the brake fluid. Do all the basic maintenance before spending on stylin' it up.

Peel up the rubber on the top of the Konis and see what the dial is set to. (you did install them with the dial out, right?) You can increase the setting to make up for wear up to a point. BTW, AFAIK, they were never stock on any BMW. Factory used Boges, which didn't last long, or Nivomat self adjusters about which I haven't heard great reviews. Konis were the way to go back in the day. You can fit the OEM aluminum covers to them with a bit of filing and a spring compressor (to get the top eye off)

Try gloss black enamel (with an artist brush) on the rusty spot on top of the carbs.

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Old 03-25-2013, 12:37 PM   #390
tete OP
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No concern w the hack job on the cover. However please let me know if you have a smoother way to run the hose. I have it running from my outlet to a old prince Alberta cigar can. Either way more blue smoke from right carb.

Thanks for the advice on the konis and such. I don't have the liberty of changing everything at once. All the "looks" stuff was either free dollars or very cheap.

Thanks for all the advice and will hear you out on all that I can. I will look at the koni dials. As well as the front shocks but to be honest that will have to wait. I have a bud who is parting out a bike w dual disk up front. I'm trying to get that coming my way.

As always adv has great advice. Thanks again.

Sent from iPhone.
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