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Old 01-30-2013, 04:12 PM   #14536
markk900
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Location: Ontario, Canada
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R/E: that cylinder looks fine, and the rings are not stuck so this is not the problem at all. I realize its good to replace stuff when its apart but if it were me I'd not buy anything, or hone anything on that cylinder. The fine scratches and even the small ridge at the top of the stroke are not causing the issue. Put it back together and forget that as the problem, unless you are really OCD then you could decoke the piston and get rid of the munge.

Did you do the leak test on the head/valves? Once its back together check the operation of the decomp....

Edit: I wanted to say like TNTMO I don't use a ring compressor either - just fingers and the chamfer at the bottom of the cylinder. However, you are naturally "stressed" right now and getting the piston into the cylinder while compressing the rings with your fingers can sometimes be frustrating, so it may be $10 well spent.

BTW: just did another motor last week (small honda) with compression issues - it was a bent valve and it was pretty straightforward to replace.
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Old 01-30-2013, 04:30 PM   #14537
RuggedExposure
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Location: Hermanas, NM (on the US/Mex border past BFE)
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'liquid' test for the valves



I used the rubbing alcohol as suggested, and the valves held every drop for half an hour. Nothing made it through.

So if my piston rings looked squared away, and my valves are holding. What in the blue f*** happened to my compression?

We know its not the:
-coil
-plug
-spark plug boot
-plug wire
-cdi
-regulator
-carb
-valves
-piston rings
-kill switch
-wiring harnesses
-bad gas
-exhaust being obstructed/clogged
-air filter

...
is there anything left other than the auto decomp???
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Old 01-30-2013, 04:31 PM   #14538
RuggedExposure
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Location: Hermanas, NM (on the US/Mex border past BFE)
Oddometer: 1,211
Quote:
Originally Posted by slartidbartfast View Post
On one of my XS650s dirt dauber wasps sealed off the air gap between the cylinders. Subsequent local overheating (maybe) led to overheating of the rings and the oil control ring lost its "spring". In my case the bike just started making huge clouds of smoke but if the compression ring lost its temper, you would lose compression.

If you've got it apart, touch up the honing (if you don't know the technique to get good cross-hatch, get someone who's done it before to help you) and replace the rings. It won't cost much and you will have eliminated one potential source of the problem.

Did you check the valve timing before you pulled the head off?

How would one go about checking the valve timing?
Could this be a problem that would slowly creep up out of no where?
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Old 01-30-2013, 04:32 PM   #14539
bullittman281
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The small locating pins for rings are typicly a two stroke thing. Cant let a ring move and get the end caught in a open port. Its very doubtful that the dr has them.

Normally its good form to stuff new rings in and replace things when they are this far apart but for the moment I wouldn't put a dime into it until I located the problem. Some where there is a deeply embedded gremlin that needs to be flushed out. Until it surfaces though I wouldn't buy any thing.

Its got to be an electrical or carb gremlin. As may times as that carb has been cleaned it has to be electrical. I'd reassemble it making sure the cam timing and de-compressor are good and then I'd re visit the electrical system with a clear head.

bullittman
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Old 01-30-2013, 04:35 PM   #14540
bullittman281
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The cam chain can stretch and it will drift, but that wont be enough for it run *that* bad. The other way it can move is a sprocket has to jump links on the chain or a key gives it up and a sprocket is allowed to move on the crank or cam. Just set it all back up like the book and makes sure that its good, and you will then know that its good. I doubt you have any problems with the cam chain, other than reassembling it.

bullittman

bullittman281 screwed with this post 01-30-2013 at 05:58 PM
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Old 01-30-2013, 04:39 PM   #14541
bullittman281
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Holy triple post batman!
I'm still wondering if its not a stator issue. That's the one part that you were not able to prove was good or bad. Swapping them made is worse even though it came from a good running bike. Once back together I would look there.

bullittman

bullittman281 screwed with this post 01-30-2013 at 04:41 PM Reason: spelling
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Old 01-30-2013, 05:08 PM   #14542
trailraat
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Hello

I purchased a 1992 dr350s last year as my first bike and have been learning to ride offroad and on the street (I do have my license and took a basic rider safety course). I have a couple questions that perhaps some here could help answer:

- how can I can I determine if bar risers would help me? I am 6' 3" and it seemed like I never felt comfortable standing (helpful in certain offroad situations), but that could be also a problem with my technique.

-What RPM should my bike be turning at 60MPH? according to my stock tachometer I am at about 9200 which to me seems a bit high for a bike on the highway.

-I seem to have some idle issues when I start up the bike I usually have to increase the idle adjustment screw (the one that adjust the throttle lever on the side of the carb) or leave the choke on for at least five minutes so that the bike won't stall. I also noticed that when I leave the choke on after a few minutes the rpms seem to start increasing and the bike begins idling quite high. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated

- tire selection I will probably be riding this bike primarily on the street, but would still like decent offroad these are my current thoughts
Replace the stock D606 though i feel its a bit aggressive for the majority of my riding
kenda 270
something else? If there is a good resource please point me there>
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Old 01-30-2013, 05:25 PM   #14543
BigD_83
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Location: Vancouver, BC
Oddometer: 23
[QUOTE=trailraat;20613593]Hello

- how can I can I determine if bar risers would help me? I am 6' 3" and it seemed like I never felt comfortable standing (helpful in certain offroad situations), but that could be also a problem with my technique.

Sounds like you could do with some risers. No harm in installing except for a few dollars. Comfort/handling will be key,but at 6'3" the stock bars are probably a little low for you. Tall guys...you agree?

-I seem to have some idle issues when I start up the bike I usually have to increase the idle adjustment screw (the one that adjust the throttle lever on the side of the carb) or leave the choke on for at least five minutes so that the bike won't stall. I also noticed that when I leave the choke on after a few minutes the rpms seem to start increasing and the bike begins idling quite high. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated

The rpm behaviour with choke is normal. The warmup time is a little long, so you might be looking at needing a carb cleanup to see if there are issues in the idle/choke circuit
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Old 01-30-2013, 05:58 PM   #14544
mustangwagz
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Location: Western PA
Oddometer: 242
Quote:
Originally Posted by trailraat View Post
Hello

I purchased a 1992 dr350s last year as my first bike and have been learning to ride offroad and on the street (I do have my license and took a basic rider safety course). I have a couple questions that perhaps some here could help answer:

- how can I can I determine if bar risers would help me? I am 6' 3" and it seemed like I never felt comfortable standing (helpful in certain offroad situations), but that could be also a problem with my technique.

-What RPM should my bike be turning at 60MPH? according to my stock tachometer I am at about 9200 which to me seems a bit high for a bike on the highway.

-I seem to have some idle issues when I start up the bike I usually have to increase the idle adjustment screw (the one that adjust the throttle lever on the side of the carb) or leave the choke on for at least five minutes so that the bike won't stall. I also noticed that when I leave the choke on after a few minutes the rpms seem to start increasing and the bike begins idling quite high. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated

- tire selection I will probably be riding this bike primarily on the street, but would still like decent offroad these are my current thoughts
Replace the stock D606 though i feel its a bit aggressive for the majority of my riding
kenda 270
something else? If there is a good resource please point me there>
I love the K270 for on-road use. I get good mileage outta mine!
Clean your carb...clean it GOOD and very very thoroughly.

Dood...9200 rpms?...i dunno if my DR will even rev that high...DO NOT run it like that for any amt of time. lol Serious! Change your sprockets before ya attempt that again! There are many combinations that they guys run. I run a 15/43 on mine currently with my Dunlop 606 and see 60mph at 5k rpm. When my k270's are on i run a 41 in the rear and its about the same roughly. (due to tire height) I weight like 170 or so? and im 6ft tall.

So id change yoru gearing for sure and then clean your carb very very VERY good! If ya need carb o-rings, talk to Greg Bender, he'll slick ya up pretty cheap! Hope this helps.
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Old 01-30-2013, 06:57 PM   #14545
duncanbojangles
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Joined: Sep 2010
Location: Lafayette, LA
Oddometer: 30
Laugh 1998 DR350SE with a Honda CRF250X muffler

I replaced the stock muffler on my 1998 Suzuki DR350SE with the stock muffler from a Honda CRF250X. The swap was fairly simple as I already had an oversized header pipe from kientech.com. The oversized header has a 1.5" outside diameter which was a perfect match for the CRF250X's muffler, which had a 1.5" inside diameter. The CRF250X muffler fits very well, it has all the right bends, and the depression in the muffler for the brake caliper is in the perfect place on the DR350SE. All I had to do was make a small bracket out of some steel plate from the tractor store and order a small piece of straight exhaust tubing to fit over the header and into the muffler's inlet. The new muffler sounds wonderful, requires no repacking, and has a USFS approved spark arrestor. I can't tell if there's any improvement in the power output, but I certainly haven't lost any power. I am very happy with the results of this Inexpensive mod.


DSCN0325 by duncanbojangles, on Flickr

DSCN0326 by duncanbojangles, on Flickr

DSCN0350 by duncanbojangles, on Flickr

DSCN0344 by duncanbojangles, on Flickr

Here's a video of the bike running with the new muffler. It was a fairly warm day, and the bike was started from cold. I let it warm up choked, then took it off of choke and opened the throttle a bit so you could hear how it responds.
http://youtu.be/cF6URSbSSr4
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Old 01-30-2013, 07:05 PM   #14546
plugeye
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Location: Garland, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duncanbojangles View Post
I replaced the stock muffler on my 1998 Suzuki DR350SE with the stock muffler from a Honda CRF250X.
great job, sounds very close to stock
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Old 01-30-2013, 07:06 PM   #14547
plugeye
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Location: Garland, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tntmo View Post
Oh yeah, I also wanted to let you know that I never use a ring compressor on the DR piston. Just squeeze the rings together by hand as the piston goes into the cylinder. It's slightly tapered on the bottom and goes together easy.
yep, fingers work best for me as well
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Old 01-30-2013, 11:56 PM   #14548
PHILinFRANCE
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Location: S W France my little bit of paradise
Oddometer: 1,071
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
That fuel's got only one way in there. It's got to be going around the seat (o-ring) or past the needle (needle/seat interface or not enough float pressure) or too much fuel pressure from stopped up tank vent???

THATS WHATS SO FRUSTRATING , i did consider the tank vacuming but surly that'd pull the fuel back UP !! but what do i know , i ordered a full needle, seat and o-ring kit last night 32 , gotta help, i'll take a look at the tank vent aswell.

Cheers Phil
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Old 01-31-2013, 04:00 AM   #14549
Greg Bender
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Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trailraat View Post
Hello

I purchased a 1992 dr350s last year as my first bike and have been learning to ride offroad and on the street (I do have my license and took a basic rider safety course). I have a couple questions that perhaps some here could help answer:

- how can I can I determine if bar risers would help me? I am 6' 3" and it seemed like I never felt comfortable standing (helpful in certain offroad situations), but that could be also a problem with my technique.

-What RPM should my bike be turning at 60MPH? according to my stock tachometer I am at about 9200 which to me seems a bit high for a bike on the highway.

-I seem to have some idle issues when I start up the bike I usually have to increase the idle adjustment screw (the one that adjust the throttle lever on the side of the carb) or leave the choke on for at least five minutes so that the bike won't stall. I also noticed that when I leave the choke on after a few minutes the rpms seem to start increasing and the bike begins idling quite high. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated

- tire selection I will probably be riding this bike primarily on the street, but would still like decent offroad these are my current thoughts
Replace the stock D606 though i feel its a bit aggressive for the majority of my riding
kenda 270
something else? If there is a good resource please point me there>

Hi trailraat,

I'm 6' 3" as well and these 30mm risers help without the need to replace cables:
http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...ndlebar+risers

They don't make it perfect, but they help.

I assume you still have the CV carb on your "S" model, yes? When I fit a CV carb to my dirt model (originally came with a pumper), I had some minor issues as you describe (long warm up time, etc.). Once I cleaned the carb, returned it to stock jetting, and replaced the diaphragm, all of that went away and I can now start riding pretty much right after I start it (gently until it does warm up - but with no risk of stalling).

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 01-31-2013, 07:01 AM   #14550
redleger
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Joined: Jan 2013
Location: Tornado Alley, Oklahoma
Oddometer: 568
Quote:
Originally Posted by duncanbojangles View Post
I replaced the stock muffler on my 1998 Suzuki DR350SE with the stock muffler from a Honda CRF250X. The swap was fairly simple as I already had an oversized header pipe from kientech.com. The oversized header has a 1.5" outside diameter which was a perfect match for the CRF250X's muffler, which had a 1.5" inside diameter. The CRF250X muffler fits very well, it has all the right bends, and the depression in the muffler for the brake caliper is in the perfect place on the DR350SE. All I had to do was make a small bracket out of some steel plate from the tractor store and order a small piece of straight exhaust tubing to fit over the header and into the muffler's inlet. The new muffler sounds wonderful, requires no repacking, and has a USFS approved spark arrestor. I can't tell if there's any improvement in the power output, but I certainly haven't lost any power. I am very happy with the results of this Inexpensive mod.


DSCN0325 by duncanbojangles, on Flickr

DSCN0326 by duncanbojangles, on Flickr

DSCN0350 by duncanbojangles, on Flickr

DSCN0344 by duncanbojangles, on Flickr

Here's a video of the bike running with the new muffler. It was a fairly warm day, and the bike was started from cold. I let it warm up choked, then took it off of choke and opened the throttle a bit so you could hear how it responds.
http://youtu.be/cF6URSbSSr4
off topic question, how did you get your tank painted black without bubbling. I have a plastic tank painted blue, and it bubbles in certain areas. Nothing I can do about it that I know of.
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