New (to Me) 2000 Kawasaki W650

[zwish]

Right on, thanks for all the tips. I think if I got the kit I would be swapping the jets as well, so the carbs would have to come off for that, but at least the needles you can adjust without too much hassle.

[Pigford]

Its just a bit of a fiddle getting at the inner screws on the carb tops.... so go easy and don't round them off..... you may consider fitting some allen hex head screws as this would be safer/easier whilts tuning.

[Barnone]

Originally Posted by zwish

Ah perfect! Thanks for the clear description. Would you have installed the kit if you weren't running aftermarket pipes?

zwish,
A common mod on the W650 is to drill holes in the baffles in the stock mufflers to open her up a bit. (reduce back pressure) Makes a sweeter sound but not too loud IMHO.

[929bladerunner]

Originally Posted by barnone

zwish,
a common mod on the w650 is to drill holes in the baffles in the stock mufflers to open her up a bit. (reduce back pressure) makes a sweeter sound but not too loud imho.

+1

[ORexpat]

I suspect mine has the baffles removed; I'll have to compare it with a stock Dubya at some point in the future. Looking up the pipe, I don't see the two tack welds that are supposed to hold the baffle. The pipe looks single-walled at the end. I can see a baffle screen about a foot up the pipe but it's not at the end of a "removeable" baffle.

Mine is very quiet at idle, but seems much louder on hard accelleration, especially above about 3500-4000 rpms.

I like mine the way it is, no intention of changing it.

[chupa88]

Hey guys,

I finally got my hands on a 2000 W650! I was looking for one of these a year ago when I got my license but as you all know, they aren't easy to find any more. Since I couldn't find one, I decided on a Suzuki TU250X. I rode it for 2600 miles over the past year. The TU is a great bike but I felt I needed a bit more power for two up and highways. So on a whim, I hit up craigslist and found this W650 just 18 miles away from me!

It has 9200 miles from the original owner. All parts are stock including the tires and mini ape bars. I got it for $3500. It's not pristine. There are some rust or corrosion here and there. I'll have to put some new tires, handlebar, seat and some up to date maintenance in it. But I'm psyched! I'll be back to bug you guys with plenty of questions!

Chupa

[ORexpat]

Congratulations on the me bike, Chupa, and welcome to the Dubya ward of the asylum!

[Barnone]

chupa88,
Congrats
She looks nice to me.

[greer]

chupa---

I sure like that blue and silver! That'll be a pleasure to polish and shine. Come back with more pictures when you can.

Sarah

[chupa88]

Thanks all! By the way, anyone in the Boston area who is knowledgeable with wrenching and wouldn't mind teaching me some stuff? I've looking for some weekend or adult ed classes on moto maintenance but haven't found anything.

[GoonerYoda]

Welcome to the club!

[chupa88]

Ok, I'm getting new bars. Most of you guys say the euro bars from Bikemaster works. But how about drag bars? Drag bars are a bit lower right?

[Barnone]

Originally Posted by chupa88

Ok, I'm getting new bars. Most of you guys say the euro bars from Bikemaster works. But how about drag bars? Drag bars are a bit lower right?

chupa88,
Does your W have the stock higher handlebars? If so I would suggest that you ride it that way for a while before changing the bars or anything else. I've had three W650s over the years and never changed the handlebars on any of them.

I ride a lot on gravel/dirt and think the higher bars are just right for that environment and the street. Make sure the stock high handlebars are set up level, some I see are cocked up.

[pjensen641]

Originally Posted by chupa88

Ok, I'm getting new bars. Most of you guys say the euro bars from Bikemaster works. But how about drag bars? Drag bars are a bit lower right?

I think someone in this thread mentioned that the controls will not clear the tank. I don't have drag bars, but I was doing some planning an layout of the bars on my bike and I could definitely believe that they would hit the tank.

The "superbike" bars are slightly lower and less pullback than the "Euro" bend in both Emgo and Bikemaster. Any lower than that and I think you would have to go with clubman bends or Hyde "M" bars. In both cases they bend forward first before they bend back, which increases tank clearance. If I don't get the right position out of the superbike bars I just picked up, I will probably go clubman or M.

It took me about 100 miles to figure out that the stockers are way to high for me. We have a lot of wind here and you have to pull yourself forward with a fair amount of pressure to overcome the wind force.

BTW, remember to get 7/8" bars and then buy or make shims for the top triple clamp and lever perches. I bough some 1" OD X 0.125 wall aluminum tubing and made my own.

[ORexpat]

I tried drag bars, the controls did in fact hit the tank. I use the superbike bars-stockers were too high for me too. But Barnone is right-try the stock bars first. Everybody's different, so see what works for you.