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Old 01-25-2013, 01:55 PM   #1966
Gustavo.Ramos
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zuber View Post
I've had a bad load with TuneECU before. Very un-ballanced running, poor mileage. Loading a different map and then the desired one again fixed it.

You can ignore the high voltage at full throttle, all TPS' are different.

So, does it run ok now?
Bad download... could be, i'll try again.

All TPS's are different but could not find any info regarding these higher than usual voltages. i'll pass then.

Does it run? It does, but crispy as hell.. Havent touched the bike for a whole week, terrible weather, no snow but lots of rain, every single day, rain, rain, rain....one morning i looked and see the sun... great, bike to work day! While taking the mug for a walk, see some clouds and starts to rain... poured the whole day and the next and....
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Old 01-26-2013, 06:32 PM   #1967
Kafn8td
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I just tried the reset adaptation and my bike did the same thing, TPS voltage jumped up to .8 v and it idled at 5k. Quickly dropped to 3k and finally settled in to a proper idle. Tested this a couple of times and it settled down to idle after 20 to 30 seconds.
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Old 01-27-2013, 02:34 PM   #1968
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07 990 Adv

I finally did it - read all 132 pages. Lots of informative stuff in there - you guys have been making real headway! Inspired me to pull out the cable that's been sitting in my garage since last summer, install the software and drivers and hook it up. No problems there.

My 07 990 Adv with Remus 2 into 1 (canister and SAS intact) runs pretty good and seems to get decent mileage with the US standard 07/08 map but I'd like a custom tune.

There was talk of an 07/08 custom starting point map to be posted but I don't see it on the TuneECU site or anywhere else. Does anyone have an update on this?
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Old 01-30-2013, 06:04 PM   #1969
Supahflid
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Why can't I keep the SAS turned off? Under the map edit tab I can right click and disable the SAI, then I do a fifteen minute idle, but it won't stop throwing the error code.

Also, under the Test and Adjust tab, why doesn't clicking any of the items on the left hand side do anything?
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Old 01-31-2013, 12:39 AM   #1970
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Supahflid View Post
Why can't I keep the SAS turned off? Under the map edit tab I can right click and disable the SAI, then I do a fifteen minute idle, but it won't stop throwing the error code.

Also, under the Test and Adjust tab, why doesn't clicking any of the items on the left hand side do anything?
When you modify the map in the computer, like turning the SAI off, you must write the map to the ECU on the bike, then do the 15 minute idle.

If the Test and Adjust is dim or off, check that you are connected to the bike's ECU. You should see a green light in the lower RH corner of the computer screen.
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Old 01-31-2013, 04:38 AM   #1971
Vicks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Supahflid View Post
Why can't I keep the SAS turned off? Under the map edit tab I can right click and disable the SAI, then I do a fifteen minute idle, but it won't stop throwing the error code.

Also, under the Test and Adjust tab, why doesn't clicking any of the items on the left hand side do anything?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zuber View Post
When you modify the map in the computer, like turning the SAI off, you must write the map to the ECU on the bike, then do the 15 minute idle.

If the Test and Adjust is dim or off, check that you are connected to the bike's ECU. You should see a green light in the lower RH corner of the computer screen.
+1 on Zuber.

You need to download the map into the ECU. Simply un-checking the box will not achieve the results.

The test and adjust functions (the ones that are dark grey) need a "double click" in my experience (you need to be connected to the ECU, obviously). The light grey ones are prohibited/not allowed.
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Old 01-31-2013, 07:25 AM   #1972
Supahflid
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zuber View Post
When you modify the map in the computer, like turning the SAI off, you must write the map to the ECU on the bike, then do the 15 minute idle.

If the Test and Adjust is dim or off, check that you are connected to the bike's ECU. You should see a green light in the lower RH corner of the computer screen.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vicks View Post
+1 on Zuber.

You need to download the map into the ECU. Simply un-checking the box will not achieve the results.

The test and adjust functions (the ones that are dark grey) need a "double click" in my experience (you need to be connected to the ECU, obviously). The light grey ones are prohibited/not allowed.
Thanks y'all! That makes sense; the program froze at one point, so I had to re-start it and when I did, the boxes that I had un-checked were re-checked. Duh. Ok, so I have saved the changes to the Akra map so now I should be able to do the fifteen min.....oh wait, I made the changes to the map, not the ECU. So I'll have to re-write the ECU with the changed map.
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Old 01-31-2013, 09:52 PM   #1973
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They grow up so fast. Fly little birdie, FLY!!
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Old 02-01-2013, 06:02 AM   #1974
Supahflid
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zuber View Post
They grow up so fast. Fly little birdie, FLY!!
Thanks for your help!

Edit: I did just what I said (what you guys advised me to do) in my previous post and it worked like a charm! Thanks Zubermamma and Vicks!

Supahflid screwed with this post 02-01-2013 at 08:27 PM
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Old 02-02-2013, 06:50 AM   #1975
RoundOz
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Obd2

How OBD2 compliant is the 990 ECU? Can you safely plug a scanner into the adapter cable (half of Powercells TuneEcu cable) and read codes etc?
It's the "etc" part I am interested in. I have heard about pulling real time analogs out of the ECU using an OBD2 Bluetooth adaptor to an android smartphone, but would like to hear from someone who has done it.

What about running TuneEcu via Bluetooth?
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Old 02-02-2013, 03:36 PM   #1976
Reese
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TuneECU on a new 990?

Is it generally accepted that one should wait until after break in to start messing around with TuneECU?

I recently purchased a 2010 model year 990 adventure with 2 miles on the clock. It exhibits a lot of the quirks that I have read about in this thread and others, including hunting at idle, snatchy throttle, and surging at low speed. Minor irritations on an otherwise amazing bike.

I have also read that these things sort themselves out after break in.

I had planned on putting the stock 2011/12 map on the bike but now wondering whether I'm jumping the gun.

Thanks in advance for any advice.
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Old 02-02-2013, 07:09 PM   #1977
Wilmo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reese View Post
Is it generally accepted that one should wait until after break in to start messing around with TuneECU?

I recently purchased a 2010 model year 990 adventure with 2 miles on the clock. It exhibits a lot of the quirks that I have read about in this thread and others, including hunting at idle, snatchy throttle, and surging at low speed. Minor irritations on an otherwise amazing bike.

I have also read that these things sort themselves out after break in.

I had planned on putting the stock 2011/12 map on the bike but now wondering whether I'm jumping the gun.

Thanks in advance for any advice.
Just do it! The 11 bikes have the better map from new, yours should too. Put the R map in it, more top end power. The S and R have the same engine.
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Old 02-02-2013, 11:15 PM   #1978
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My Life with a 2010 990 Adventure and TuneECU

I have a 2010 990 Adv. Ran glitchy for the first 200 miles. Put on a G2 Throttle tube which helped. Then it ran better for the next 5000. All with the stock map. Eventually it got up to 48 mpg. It always ran very good above 4000.

The worst was right at 3200-3500 rpm and 6-8% throttle. The ignition has a big advanced timing spike centered at 3500 rpm. On the ramp up (3200-3500) it had a very touchy throttle. On the ramp down (3500-4000) it seemed to have a huge flat spot, which took a lot more throttle. This is right at 55 mph.

At 9000 miles I did the first valve adjust, TPS adjust and throttle body sync with an electric gage. It ran better overall, but the timing spike was worse.

I then put on a 2-1 exhaust of my own making. I used most of the stock H pipe and gutted a stock muffler. This pipe has more of a 'boom box' than other pipes. You can hear it chug in the 3000-4000 rpm range.

I re-mapped it several times with TuneECU, cut the spike off the ignition, added fuel and it ran a little better.

Then I tried Power-Tripp's 2-1 map. It ran fantastic! This map had a vibration above 8000, which was probably due to my more restrictive muffler. It also had a lean spot right at 3000 and 8% throttle. So, I cut back the timing and fueling to stock above 8000. I also added about 2% fuel at 3000/8%.

Now it runs fantastic!! Better than any 950 carb'd bike I've ridden. It has a totally smooth throttle from 2000-6000, no abrupt throttle, no surges, no glitches. It is trials-bike smooth down low and just builds with revs.

I used to slip the clutch when transitioning from off throttle to on throttle, now I never touch the clutch. It gets a consistent 40 mpg and is a little flat above 7k compared to dual exhaust. But, since I run it mostly in the 3-5k range all the time, it works great.

I'd suggest that you break in the bike. Don't modify the engine much for the first 5k miles to keep the warranty intact, then go for it during the first valve adjust. Change your oil and filter a lot in the first 3000 miles. I did mine at 300, 1500 and 3000 and wished I had done it more often.

Use TuneECU to mark your throttle tube for % throttle opening and watch it for a while. Look at the stock map when you find a rpm/throttle combo you don't like. Make small changes and ride it for 500 miles. Power-Tripp's maps are a very good starting point if you pull the stock mufflers.
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Old 02-02-2013, 11:40 PM   #1979
Reese
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zuber View Post
I have a 2010 990 Adv. Ran glitchy for the first 200 miles. Put on a G2 Throttle tube which helped. Then it ran better for the next 5000. All with the stock map. Eventually it got up to 48 mpg. It always ran very good above 4000.

The worst was right at 3200-3500 rpm and 6-8% throttle. The ignition has a big advanced timing spike centered at 3500 rpm. On the ramp up (3200-3500) it had a very touchy throttle. On the ramp down (3500-4000) it seemed to have a huge flat spot, which took a lot more throttle. This is right at 55 mph.
This sounds exactly like what I'm seeing with about 80 miles on the bike. I'll give it a little bit of time to sort itself out. I hadn't considered the warranty being an issue but it's probably wise to hold off on invalidating anything until I'm sure there are no major problems.

Thanks all for the advice. Orange Crush has been an amazing resource for this new owner.
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Old 02-04-2013, 01:08 AM   #1980
trickster
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Hi, could anyone share information about mapping for cpr/itg type filters? Currently I'm running shootis map (hybrid 2007 and 2009 model) and i would like to be a little more on the safe side since i'm having installed an itg filter by myself. The map itself it's richer than the standard akrapovic but i do suspect it might need to be a little richer.
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