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Old 02-01-2013, 07:18 AM   #52816
super samurai
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One more teaser.
Gonna put more pics in spuds thread just to keep it in one area, since its the same cooler diff. Location.
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Old 02-01-2013, 07:20 AM   #52817
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SS What type of hose did you use?
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Old 02-01-2013, 07:30 AM   #52818
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[Qit is hose i picked up at a local hydraulic hose and supply place. Rated for oil. The napa hose was to large in diam. And rated more for fuel not oil.
Ill do a write up tonight on spuds cooler thread.
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Old 02-01-2013, 08:35 AM   #52819
fritzcoinc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThumpnRed View Post

Now... for something completely different.
I talked about having an extra flywheel lightened months back and there was some discussion about pros and cons. It's a spare, so I am going to do it, but my question is where should we take off meat and how much? I am thinking the thick ring that is riveted to the actual flywheel. When you compare an XR600R and XRL flywhel, you can see that the XRL unit is essentially an XRR flywheel riveted to a big heavy steel donut.

The starter gear comes off, so I am thinking about focusing the liposuction surgery on said steel donut. Maybe take some off of the perimeter of the wheel itself as well.

What say the collective?
Many years ago I installed an after market ingition on my Yam AT-1 125CC enduro. The new fly wheel was microscopic compaired to the combination starter/alternator flywheel the bike came with. The difference in performance was dramatic. I didn't seem to miss the extra flywheel weight at all.
I would say since it appears you have all the tools needed to remove your flywheel at any time, remove 30% of its weight to start. You can calulate this on the front side. Figure the cubic inches of material you are going to remove and multiply by .2834 ( the weight of a cubic inch of steel ). I think you could take off as much weight as possible because the crank is pretty massive. I guess you could rig up a balancer sililar to what you use for wheels to re balance after machining.
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fritzcoinc screwed with this post 02-01-2013 at 08:46 AM
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Old 02-01-2013, 08:41 AM   #52820
fritzcoinc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThumpnRed View Post
Why would the engineers (smart guys with sick math skills, thick glasses and shit) who designed the engine make it very clear in the owner's manual that you check the oil opposite to what you suggest? Perhaps (just maybe...) they figured all of the shit that you have been bickering about into the equation when they etched the line on the friggin dipstick. Dunno... just my guess.

+1 Better than a guess.
Sometime when I'm resting and in need of a good laugh, no a side splitting laugh, I'll read back through the post and find how to check the oil level of an XRL while its running.

PS:
Are those guys high? I was at the Texas Mile speed run this year and a highly modified, I would call it Super Stock mod., Busa only went 198 mph.
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Old 02-01-2013, 09:18 AM   #52821
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spud Rider View Post
The Honda XR650L Owners Manual tells how to check the oil level. ...
I couldn't stay for the discussion, but this is what I was thinking as well. It works, imagine that!
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Old 02-01-2013, 09:18 AM   #52822
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Laugh Late to an oil discussion...may be a good thing!

Quote:
Originally Posted by my6 View Post


The brown truck is our friend....
Yes he is...




Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben99r1 View Post
Thanks guys I am adopting a new way to me to check oil level. Ill do it the same way every single time. thanks for taking the time to answer my questions.
I always check mine a few minutes after shutdown and top off if needed. That way you're not freaking out when you see no oil on the stick(drained into crackcase over night) or adding oil that it doesn't need. You're also ready to go for the next ride instead of screwing with starting the engine, getting it up to temp, then checking.
As far as oil consumption, high speed interstate travel will make these bike use oil.
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Old 02-01-2013, 09:35 AM   #52823
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeathrow Bowdean View Post
I use to panic when I seen it in the half way mark, so I'd add the 200 ml of oil, then check it when it was good and hot, and it would be over full every time. It took me 3 or 4 times till I figured it out.

Conclusion is. Oil expands just like water when heated !!!
The beauty of the external tank system is that the oil level is essentially unimportant as long as the tank doesn't run dry or overflow - the engine will maintain lubrication. However, the advantage to having more oil in the reserviour is that it is more able to dissipate heat to the environment. Overfilling the reserviour will not cause damage to the engine's moving parts the way it can when the oil is contained in the crankcase. With all that in mind, I usually run a bit "over-full". But using the procedure in the manual will allow checking the reserviour level when the reserviour is as full as it gets.

The level you see rising as the engine runs is not a result of "expanding" oil, it is the result of the excess oil in the crankcase being pumped up into the reserviour. The amount that oil (or water) expands during temperature rise in liquid phase is extremely small - certainly not large enough to be visible on the dipstick in the reserviour.
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Old 02-01-2013, 09:37 AM   #52824
bwalsh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThumpnRed View Post
I started out on a Yamaha. It was a dark time for all those around me The Suzukis were "growth" years
Don't ever buy a Harley!


Quote:
Originally Posted by joexr View Post
If the pump doesnt leak , level will be the same off or at idle. Therefor if your pump leaks , the level can be artificially low. This is the reason for everyones varying oil capacities. Say what you will , but just really think about this.
The "O" ring, seal, whatever(can't remember) at the pump doesn't leak so quickly as to not get an accurate reading a few minutes after shutoff. Next morning would be suspect though.
I agree with El Salvador on idling the engine to warm not being the best for the engine(at least the top end). I also believe that checking after a ride is the easiest option and negates the need for a warm up, shut down and check before a ride.

I've had the dip stick out while idling. There is enough oil coming into the top of the tank to where I wouldn't be able to get a level reading. I've also had it off for about five miles while riding. I guess I didn't tighten it up enough one day.
Freakin oil was everywhere!
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Old 02-01-2013, 09:37 AM   #52825
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThumpnRed View Post
Why would the engineers (smart guys with sick math skills, thick glasses and shit) who designed the engine make it very clear in the owner's manual that you check the oil opposite to what you suggest? Perhaps (just maybe...) they figured all of the shit that you have been bickering about into the equation when they etched the line on the friggin dipstick. Dunno... just my guess.


Hey... I don't wear thick glasses!
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Let's ride!!! - No offense, but there've been a lot of people over time who were just as sure, yet got it wrong. - Una necedad, aunque la repitan millones de bocas, no deja de ser una necedad. - "you know that I could have me a million more friends and all I'd have to lose is my point of view" (Prine)
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Old 02-01-2013, 09:52 AM   #52826
ltcole
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XRs only dipstick

Since everyone is on the subject of oil level, still.

Can anyone that has an XRs only temp dipstick take a picture of it side by side with a stock dipstick?

When I purchased my bike it had the XRs only dipstick, and a box of stock parts. The stock dipstick was not there so I have no reference for a low mark, and I am just guessing the red dot of paint on the XRs only dipstick is the full mark.

Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.



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Old 02-01-2013, 10:31 AM   #52827
Miguel Sanchez
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Kickstand length

I bought a used 2004 a year or so ago (my 3rd XRL since 1998 ), and it had a Devol lowering link installed along with a kickstand that was hacked shorter. The PO obviously was not a welder...

Anyway, being over 6' tall with long legs and a tendency to keep my feet on the pegs where they belong, I finally got around to removing the lowering link and taking the bike back to stock height in the rear. Now the kickstand is too short (no shit!) and in need of being stretched.

Could someone measure their stock kickstand for me? Just the distance from the center of the pivot bolt to the end of the foot would be good. I know, I could swing by the dealer and measure a new one, but hey - I'm lazy. I might even fab up a larger pad for the stretched one to reduce having to hunt for cool little flat rocks/boards/lizards/etc every time I stop on soft ground.

Thanks in advance!!
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Old 02-01-2013, 11:05 AM   #52828
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Miguel Sanchez View Post
I bought a used 2004 a year or so ago (my 3rd XRL since 1998 ), and it had a Devol lowering link installed along with a kickstand that was hacked shorter. The PO obviously was not a welder...

Anyway, being over 6' tall with long legs and a tendency to keep my feet on the pegs where they belong, I finally got around to removing the lowering link and taking the bike back to stock height in the rear. Now the kickstand is too short (no shit!) and in need of being stretched.

Could someone measure their stock kickstand for me? Just the distance from the center of the pivot bolt to the end of the foot would be good. I know, I could swing by the dealer and measure a new one, but hey - I'm lazy. I might even fab up a larger pad for the stretched one to reduce having to hunt for cool little flat rocks/boards/lizards/etc every time I stop on soft ground.

Thanks in advance!!
Mine measures out to 14.5 pad to pivot. What is the length of the lowering link center to center?
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Old 02-01-2013, 11:07 AM   #52829
ltcole
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Stock link

Quote:
Originally Posted by Miguel Sanchez View Post
Anyway, being over 6' tall with long legs and a tendency to keep my feet on the pegs where they belong, I finally got around to removing the lowering link and taking the bike back to stock height in the rear.
I have this same issue, just a little tight on money right now and the stock link isn't exactly cheap.

Would you say that it's a hard task to pull the lowering link and drop in a stock link?

Thanks,
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Old 02-01-2013, 11:15 AM   #52830
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ltcole View Post
I have this same issue, just a little tight on money right now and the stock link isn't exactly cheap.

Would you say that it's a hard task to pull the lowering link and drop in a stock link?

Thanks,
http://store01.prostores.com/servlet...-XR-650/Detail

Got a cheep lowering link for sale?
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