the DR650 thread

[acesandeights]

I wonder if they are binding as the wheel wants to go forward and therefore change the angle of the fork tube/clamps. Did you take the weight off the suspension first, raise the bike?

[imprezagm4]

All I have is a car floor jack... so to do the rear I just layed the bike on its side. I tried it once again, on the side but still can't move the forks :?

To confirm... there are only 6 bolts requiring removal to loosen them sufficiently... correct? 4 for the lower clamp and two for the top?

[Rob.G]

Originally Posted by imprezagm4

All I have is a car floor jack... so to do the rear I just layed the bike on its side. I tried it once again, on the side but still can't move the forks :?

To confirm... there are only 6 bolts requiring removal to loosen them sufficiently... correct? 4 for the lower clamp and two for the top?

Yeah that's it. I suggest getting the front end in the air and removing the front wheel. It's MUCH easier than trying to do with the wheel on it.

Rob

[Adv Grifter]

Originally Posted by Obard

Thanks, that is some peace of mind. I just did a valve adjustment on it, but am uncertain about my competency in this department. Lack of quality tools, and experience being the biggest factor. How do I know if I did it right or wrong? It rattles and clanks quite a bit up there. Btw, it did the blue smoke thing before I adjusted the valves, so I don't think I made it worse.

Sounds like you got the valves wrong ... you may need to go round one more full rotation and back on your timing mark to get valves in correct position for adjustment. If set right ... they don't rattle very much.
Mis-adjusted valves won't affect your valve guides. About four hours shop labor to rebuild the head if you chose. If me, I'd just roll with it. You're nick name will be "Smokey Joe".

Find someone to help you set the valves. It's quite simple once you know the drill.

[Rob.G]

So today I finally decide to go for a short ride on my DR650. I get geared up and head west, figuring I'm gonna see if there are some dirt roads southwest of Dallas (Oregon). I get two miles down the road and notice my right-side LED driving light is hanging by its cord. WTF? I thought I lost the bolt. Nope, the bracket is broken! Crap. So I double back home.

The little brackets from ProCycle for these lights have broken. The other side was just about ready to break. So I go inside and look through my parts bins. I come back out with two longer bolts and two 3/4" long nylon spacers, and replace the lower bolt in the lower triple with the new bolt and the spacer, to force the light out far enough so I can retain the reflector bracket. Takes ten minutes and it's all back together.

I test the lights. They come on... flicker, then go off. WTF? No "off" light on the switch. Grrr. Pull the side panels and seat off and try to remember what the heck the fuse block for the lights looks like. After pulling the tank and tracing the wires, I find it. Fuse is fine. Pull fuse, examine, replace. Lights work. Cool, so I reassemble.

Once back together, I test again. Lights no work. AUGH. Pull side panel and go back to fuse. Pulling/replacing doesn't work this time. Fine, be that way. Came inside in disgust. Tomorrow, everything comes apart again and I'm ripping the fancy wiring/relay crap out that the lights came with (the Denali lights from Twisted Throttle) and I'm going to wire them up the regular way like I did on my KLX250S and use a conventional toggle switch instead of that silly pushbutton thing. Simple is good.

While looking at the wiring mess, I've decided that when I do gut the thing next Winter to powdercoat the purple frame, I'm going to redo ALL the wiring and install a standard fuse block and relay block, both accessible from the side covers, and everything will be labelled. That way, the seat can stay on most of the time. At least that's the plan. :)

So yeah.. now instead of riding tomorrow, I get to deal with wiring crap.

Rob

[trailrider383]

Originally Posted by imprezagm4

Ok.... so I'm lowering my DR today, did the rear no problem, going to raise the forks in the triple clamp... get everything all loosened up (top and bottom clamp) and they won't budge? Are there any tips and tricks or maybe something I missed?

Did you loosen the clamp at the top of the fork boot?

[procycle]

Originally Posted by imprezagm4

Ok.... so I'm lowering my DR today, did the rear no problem, going to raise the forks in the triple clamp... get everything all loosened up (top and bottom clamp) and they won't budge? Are there any tips and tricks or maybe something I missed?

Sometimes the rubber grommets in the headlight bracket stick to the tubes. A little WD40 might help.

Some bikes just have tight bores in the triple clamps. A little something wedged into the gap to spread the clamp might do the trick.

[eakins]

Originally Posted by trailrider383

Did you loosen the clamp at the top of the fork boot?

?
nice call.

[Carl Childers]

Originally Posted by imprezagm4

Ok.... so I'm lowering my DR today, did the rear no problem, going to raise the forks in the triple clamp... get everything all loosened up (top and bottom clamp) and they won't budge? Are there any tips and tricks or maybe something I missed?

Check the shop manual, there is a better way to lower the forks by swapping the internal fork spacers around than raising them in the trees.

[TRAVELGUY]

+1

Originally Posted by carl childers

check the shop manual, there is a better way to lower the forks by swapping the internal fork spacers around than raising them in the trees.

[NordieBoy]

Originally Posted by acesandeights

The lowering of the rear also includes "flipping" the spring seat. Using an aftermarket spring may require using an aftermarket spring seat, which mine did. The aftermarket part does not offer the ability to "flip" it, so it won't lower the rear as much as you can with the stock spring and spring seat. The forks were lowered by putting the spacer under.

The flipping only limits the travel. It doesn't affect the height at all.

[Magnum Noel]

Quote:- So yeah.. now instead of riding tomorrow, I get to deal with wiring crap.
Thats a bummer

[ER70S-2]

Originally Posted by trailrider383

Did you loosen the clamp at the top of the fork boot?

Originally Posted by eakins

nice call.

BTDT

[Obard]

Originally Posted by Adv Grifter

Sounds like you got the valves wrong ... you may need to go round one more full rotation and back on your timing mark to get valves in correct position for adjustment. If set right ... they don't rattle very much.
Mis-adjusted valves won't affect your valve guides. About four hours shop labor to rebuild the head if you chose. If me, I'd just roll with it. You're nick name will be "Smokey Joe".

Ok, so putting the timing mark in the center of the inspection hole isn't exactly enough, right? I think what I am missing, is ensuring that it's tdc on the compression stroke. Please pardon my lack of knowledge, but, how do I know if it's the compression stroke?

[ER70S-2]

After cleaning out the recess around the spark plugs thoroughly, remove the outer plug. Stick a straw into the hole, rotate the engine slowly (ccw) while wiggling the straw so it doesn't bind on the piston as it rises in the bore. At this TDC, wiggle the rocker arms (side to side, as you're unlikely to feel the small valve clearance with the oil cushioning it), if they're loose that's the TDC you want. Rotate the engine another 360* (straw at full extension again) and wiggle the rocker arms again, they should not wiggle, this is the wrong TDC. Do this two or three times until you're sure when the rockers are tight and when they're loose. Adjust the valves when both rockers are loose. Exact TDC (mark in the window), isn't necessary, as the valves are closed for many degrees on both sides of TDC.

Once you feel it, you're set for life. You can use a pencil instead of a straw, just remember to wiggle it as the piston rises or it might bind and break. Something flexible is safer, like a straw.