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Old 01-31-2013, 10:51 PM   #14566
tntmo
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I don't know if you could get much of a bulb in there, but maybe something LED or HID? Would be cool to have extra light!

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Originally Posted by Wudscrasher View Post
Thanks, tntmo! Now, my DR has battery power...so...what to do with this little guy
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Old 02-01-2013, 10:52 AM   #14567
a1fa
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Can an exhaust from 99 DR350SE(x) fit on 1993 DR350s (kickstart)
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Old 02-01-2013, 11:31 AM   #14568
slartidbartfast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tntmo View Post
I don't know if you could get much of a bulb in there, but maybe something LED or HID? Would be cool to have extra light!
The extra bulb location is for a pilot/parking light. They are required in some European countries.

I don't think you'd even notice the extra light. Just put in a higher output or higher efficiency (HID?) main bulb if that's what you're after. Even a bright bulb in that location will throw very little light where it of use to see by.
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Old 02-01-2013, 12:51 PM   #14569
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Originally Posted by a1fa View Post
Can an exhaust from 99 DR350SE(x) fit on 1993 DR350s (kickstart)
Yes, same exhaust.
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Old 02-02-2013, 12:33 AM   #14570
Anonawesome
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Originally Posted by RuggedExposure View Post
How would one go about checking the valve timing?
Could this be a problem that would slowly creep up out of no where?
I just finished a top end rebuild on my Dr to replace some leaking valve seals. Before you throw that engine back together it would be a very good idea to lap the valves.

Remove the valve springs (you need a special c-clamp like thing to do this), put some valve grinding compound around the edge of the valve, slide it back in the head, then with the suction cup tool twist back and forth till you hear the grinding sound change. Lift, then repeat until the sound basically stays the same. You can get all this at advance, though when I called to ask they had no idea what I was talking about. I would also recommend replacing the valve seals since you have everything apart.

Since the current suspect is valve leakage I would recommend cleaning everything the best you can. Take a wire wheel to the head, valves, and top of the piston (super dense you won't hurt it). You can also do this for the metal header seal. Just be careful not to scrape the aluminum where a tight seal is needed.....

Oh yeah timing. Remove the cover for the top dead center viewer thing. It should be near the front of the left side case cover. Not the cap that looks like it covers the crank. Anyway rotate the engine to TDC or "T" as the indicator will say, Then when you throw the engine back together put the cam on with both "lobes" or whatever you call them, pointing down. Simple. But as someone else said, your cam chain could be over-stretched which caused a link to skip. I don't know how likely this is to happen but check how extended your cam chain tensioner is.

Phew.

Also check out what happened to my turn signal relay when two badly connected turn signal wires touched.
No but really my turn signals won't work and any tips on the possible culprit would be appreciated.



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Old 02-02-2013, 12:44 AM   #14571
Anonawesome
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Just now saw the post a few posts back about the flashers. I recently switched over to LED bulbs but got a relay made for LEDs. I had a hard time interpreting the indicator light issue but could this cause my issue with no lights at all even with the proper flasher?
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Old 02-02-2013, 12:17 PM   #14572
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anonawesome View Post
Just now saw the post a few posts back about the flashers. I recently switched over to LED bulbs but got a relay made for LEDs. I had a hard time interpreting the indicator light issue but could this cause my issue with no lights at all even with the proper flasher?
It's not uncommon for that I happen if you switch out to all led signals. The single dash indicator needs current to flow either way across the circuit. The led by nature is a one way current control. You may need to do some extra wiring to do the indicator to get the power from either signal.


Typos and nonsensical words courtesy of fat fingers on a make believe keyboard.
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Old 02-02-2013, 12:25 PM   #14573
mazamarider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anonawesome View Post
Just now saw the post a few posts back about the flashers. I recently switched over to LED bulbs but got a relay made for LEDs. I had a hard time interpreting the indicator light issue but could this cause my issue with no lights at all even with the proper flasher?
I just replaced mine old turn signals with LEDs and had a similar issue. I had to pull the indicator light out completely, wouldn't work otherwise. Question though, where is your turn signal relay? I can't seem to find it to save my life...
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Old 02-02-2013, 01:24 PM   #14574
Wadester
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Originally Posted by mazamarider View Post
I just replaced mine old turn signals with LEDs and had a similar issue. I had to pull the indicator light out completely, wouldn't work otherwise. Question though, where is your turn signal relay? I can't seem to find it to save my life...
Stock location is on a tab under the headlight shroud - on the right looking from the front, on the inside of the headlight bracket.
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Old 02-02-2013, 04:25 PM   #14575
a1fa
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Alright, need a confirmation on kicking a hot 93 DR350 with a pumper carb...

It fires on first kick cold. I spent 10 minutes hot kicking until I reverse-engineered the hot start process. I need a verification or if there is an easier way...

Cold Start
  1. If temperature is below 50F, pull the choke.
  2. Rotate the motor using kick-start until you locate TDC.
  3. Press and release the de-compress lever.
  4. Release kick-start.
  5. KICK!.
  6. WROOM, WROOM!
  7. Slowly push the choke, until engine within operational temperature.

HOT Start
  1. Rotate the motor using kick-start until you locate TDC.
  2. Press and release the de-compress lever.
  3. Release kick-start.
  4. Partially crack open the throttle -- 1/6th of a turn. Hold open.
  5. KICK!
  6. WROOM, WROOM!
  7. Release the throttle.

This worked for me, and I was able to kick start it with 1 kick every time. What is your hot-start secret?
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Old 02-02-2013, 05:14 PM   #14576
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Originally Posted by a1fa View Post
What is your hot-start secret?
Mine starts first kick when hot. Just use the decomp lever, find TDC and then kick. Fires up on the first kick at least 80% of the time and I can't think of any time it took more than 3 kicks.

Cold start is my problem... I prime with a dozen decomp kicks and then give it two real kicks with the choke on. It rarely starts. I then take choke off and just kick it from TDC until it starts -- takes a lot longer when cold and probably averages 20 kicks to start it for the first time. It often dies after a few seconds of idling for a few times. Then takes a few minutes to warm up before I can give it throttle without dying.
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Old 02-03-2013, 07:54 AM   #14577
slartidbartfast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mazamarider View Post
I just replaced mine old turn signals with LEDs and had a similar issue. I had to pull the indicator light out completely, wouldn't work otherwise. Question though, where is your turn signal relay? I can't seem to find it to save my life...
Put something like a 15 or 20 ohmm resistor in parallel with one of the turn signals on each side. The current draw of the signals will still be pretty low but the indicator light will begin working again. Another alternative would be to wire up two indicator lights in parallel with the turn signal circuits, one for right and one for left. These could be 12V LEDs. If you can see the top of the signal lens from the normal riding position, then the indicator light is unnecessary of course.
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Old 02-03-2013, 08:56 AM   #14578
dav_dman
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did you guys having trouble use resistors in the circuit when adding LED's?
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Old 02-03-2013, 11:38 AM   #14579
TheOtherBart
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a1fa View Post
Alright, need a confirmation on kicking a hot 93 DR350 with a pumper carb...

It fires on first kick cold. I spent 10 minutes hot kicking until I reverse-engineered the hot start process. I need a verification or if there is an easier way...

Cold Start
  1. If temperature is below 50F, pull the choke.
  2. Rotate the motor using kick-start until you locate TDC.
  3. Press and release the de-compress lever.
  4. Release kick-start.
  5. KICK!.
  6. WROOM, WROOM!
  7. Slowly push the choke, until engine within operational temperature.

HOT Start
  1. Rotate the motor using kick-start until you locate TDC.
  2. Press and release the de-compress lever.
  3. Release kick-start.
  4. Partially crack open the throttle -- 1/6th of a turn. Hold open.
  5. KICK!
  6. WROOM, WROOM!
  7. Release the throttle.

This worked for me, and I was able to kick start it with 1 kick every time. What is your hot-start secret?
My DR has the electric leg, but the 1/6 throttle when hot trick is what always worked on my XR250L. The easy cold starts and the need for a little throttle when hot generally means that you're just on the rich side on the pilot circuit.
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Old 02-03-2013, 12:14 PM   #14580
a1fa
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Thanks! I think I like it rich like this.. Easy cold starts are a very nice treat... Since the procedure works for hot start, no need to ruin the cold start ;)
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