DR650SE Index Topic #12- ENGINE/CHAINS & SPROCKETS - Page 3

Bronco638 · 02-25-2012, 05:49 AM

When I bought my DR650, the p.o. indicated it had a (simple to fix) leak at the gear shift shaft. I pile of greasy mud, on the frame below the left rear of the motor, made it pretty easy to identify the location of the leak. After I stripped the DR to the frame (for powder coating), I de-greased the motor and discovered that the gasket under the gear shift linkage cover plate was leaking too.

Both the gasket and the seal are easy to replace. If your DR's motor is still full of oil, lean the bike to the right so the oil pools elsewhere (since my motor was out of the frame, I simply set the motor on its right side). To replace the gasket, remove the six 8mm bolts. They have varying lengths (like the clutch cover) so be sure to note their locations. When pulling the cover off, use your thumb to push down on the shift shaft. Otherwise, the shift shaft may come off with the cover. This is not a disaster but there are other parts that may become displaced because of that. The shop manual is very vague (and the image is poor) when it comes to noting the proper location of those parts. Also, the shift shaft will (or should) have a circlip on it. That keeps the thrust washer properly located. Chances are, the thrust washer is 'stuck' to the cover plate (with motor oil). Pull the thrust washer off the cover and put it on the shaft. Now you won't have to worry about losing it.

The old gasket should pop right off, especially if it was no longer sealing, like mine. Use a razor blade, or the like, to remove any remaining gasket material from both the engine case and the cover. Clean all gasket sealing surfaces with acetone, paint thinner, rubbing alcohol or the like. If you're replacing the shaft seal, now is the time to do it. Unlike wheel bearing dust seals, this seal does not need to be driven out of its bore. A small screw driver or hook pick will work just fine. Even if you're only replacing the seal, without removing the cover, a hook pick is the tool to use. Push the new seal into the bore with your thumb (honestly, it's that easy). Use a little wheel bearing grease to lubricate the seal (or the shift shaft). I prefer the Permatex "Ultra" line of RTV. All you need is a "haze" of RTV on the side of the gasket that will contact the engine case. Repeat the procedure with the cover. It's easier to apply the RTV to the cover, instead of the now in-place gasket, due to accessibility. Now, put the cover back in place and install the bolts, finger tight. Using a back-and-forth cross-zig-zag pattern tighten them with an 8mm socket and screwdriver handle (you don't need any more torque than that, a ratchet handle, even 1/4" drive, is too much). That's it, you're done.

ER70S-2 · 03-24-2012, 08:26 PM

Make sure the teeth on the horizontal splined shaft are pointing to the front when you put the cover on. It spins freely in the clutch but I'm not sure if the cover will even go back on if the splines are pointing the wrong way (on the internal horizontal splined shaft). Since the vertical splined shaft is machined 360* on both ends, it doesn't matter where it is when installed. That adjustment is made with the arm after the cover is on.

Here are a few reference pics, I think they'll be close for most DR650s.

Photo thanks to LukasM:

Look at the clutch cover bolt in the background, easier to see in the next pics. In this photo I'm gently pressing the arm to the left, CCW (just to remove freeplay) and it's too far rearward.

I've rotated the arm TWO splines forward and it's too far. I'm still gently pressing the arm CCW.

Rotating the arm back one spline and this time it's where it belongs, almost lining up with the cable end; but that's because it's on my bike and the cable is already set correctly. If your cable is unadjusted, go by the arm and cover bolt, then adjust the cable.

Pic 4 is what you want:

Pic 4 and pic 5 are both on the same spline. In pic 5, I'm rotating the arm forward to show the freeplay of the vertical shaft.
If you have the arm on the correct spline, it swings freely between pic 4 and 5.

Pic 5:

ADV8 · 05-16-2012, 05:46 PM

ADV8 · 05-27-2012, 02:04 AM

1998 and up DR 650 transmission.

ER70S-2 · 06-03-2012, 04:40 PM

http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....ostcount=65482

Bob808 · 06-11-2012, 05:35 AM

Does anyone have a complete bearing list from SKF? For the whole engine, since I have it open I might as well do a complete replacement. When I opened the crankcase bearings seemed smooth, but after one week with the crankcase opened they don't feel that smooth anymore. Kind of like they have some sand in them. And seem like all of them do it now. I could get them out and clean them in gasoline real good but I could just change them all if they are not so expensive from SKF. Any link would be perfect. Thanks guys.
Ah, almost forgot, the SKF ones, are they in different fitting standars? I think I can remember a discussion where you had to make sure to get the ones with the tightest tolerance. Is this the case with SKF ones or are they one size perfect fit?

ADV8 · 07-22-2012, 12:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Krusty ...

On to the drivetrain- engine, transmission, chains and sprockets.

Stock.

Stock with Nova Racing Transmissions Ltd (UK) billet third gear set.

NordieBoy · 07-22-2012, 12:25 AM

Nice.

ER70S-2 · 12-27-2012, 11:16 PM

Looking through old posts, I found this posted by Nibis in October 2009. Now all of us know what's in there.

koh kood · 12-27-2012, 11:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob808

Does anyone have a complete bearing list from SKF? For the whole engine, since I have it open I might as well do a complete replacement. When I opened the crankcase bearings seemed smooth, but after one week with the crankcase opened they don't feel that smooth anymore. Kind of like they have some sand in them. And seem like all of them do it now. I could get them out and clean them in gasoline real good but I could just change them all if they are not so expensive from SKF. Any link would be perfect. Thanks guys.
Ah, almost forgot, the SKF ones, are they in different fitting standars? I think I can remember a discussion where you had to make sure to get the ones with the tightest tolerance. Is this the case with SKF ones or are they one size perfect fit?

I'm not sure where I got this list. I hope it's right.

Original bearing........................................... .......SKF bearing
Main bearing right NSK 6208 CN...... ......................SKF 6208 CN
Main bearing left NSK 6209 CN............... ..............SKF 6209 CN
Balanceshaft right HIC 83943A CN.........................SKF 63/22 CN Without the pin

Balanceshaft left KOYO 6204RHR CN ......................SKF 6204 CN

Transmission outgoing axle right NTN 6004L8 CN........ SKF 6004 CN with one sealing

Transmission outgoing axle left KOYO 6305RUEDI CN.. SKF 6305 CN with one sealing

Transmission secondaryside right KOYO 63/22 CN...... SKF 63/22 CN

Transmission secondaryside left NSK 6203D A8 CN..... SKF 6203 CN with one sealing

Mambo Dave · 01-03-2013, 02:12 PM

Regarding the verticle 'axle' for the clutch, here, or whatever it is that the arm teeth engage with and the arm bolts to, I installed mine ... "wrong" ("?") where the clutch handle wouldn't spring back.

I was really dreading taking the cover off again (already fileld it with good oil, etc.), but after disconneting the clutch cable / arm and foling with the axle a bit, then hooking the arm back up - I now had a fully working clutch handle.

So... is it made to be installed in nearly any rotational placement, but then to engage the splines inside the cover after a rotation or so?

Quote:

Originally Posted by ER70S-2

Pic 4 and pic 5 are both on the same spline. In pic 5, I'm rotating the arm forward to show the freeplay of the vertical shaft.
If you have the arm on the correct spline, it swings freely between pic 4 and 5.

Pic 5:

NordieBoy · 01-03-2013, 06:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mambo Dave

Regarding the verticle 'axle' for the clutch, here, or whatever it is that the arm teeth engage with and the arm bolts to, I installed mine ... "wrong" ("?") where the clutch handle wouldn't spring back.

I was really dreading taking the cover off again (already fileld it with good oil, etc.), but after disconneting the clutch cable / arm and foling with the axle a bit, then hooking the arm back up - I now had a fully working clutch handle.

So... is it made to be installed in nearly any rotational placement, but then to engage the splines inside the cover after a rotation or so?

Nope, turn it anticlockwise with your fingers and slip the arm on then.

acesandeights · 01-03-2013, 07:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NordieBoy

Nope, turn it anticlockwise with your fingers and slip the arm on then.

I love English, spoken elsewhere.

TinkerinWstuff · 01-22-2013, 08:53 AM

effort to boost my post count

stock piston with dished top:

JE 10.5:1 "high compression" flat top piston:

kit:

kit available from Procycle, Keintech, and other sources. Not all "kits" are put together the same (which and type of gaskets that are included).

I was asked to get a weight on the engine. Came up with 107.5lbs on my digital bathroom scale (with oil). I don't usually choose to believe that scale as it's always telling me I am carrying extra lbs.

BergDonk · 02-03-2013, 12:30 AM

How I do it:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...&postcount=371

02-25-2012, 05:49 AM	#31
Bronco638 Nobody Home Joined: Dec 2004 Location: Itasca, IL Oddometer: 2,908	Gear Shifter Leaks & Repair When I bought my DR650, the p.o. indicated it had a (simple to fix) leak at the gear shift shaft. I pile of greasy mud, on the frame below the left rear of the motor, made it pretty easy to identify the location of the leak. After I stripped the DR to the frame (for powder coating), I de-greased the motor and discovered that the gasket under the gear shift linkage cover plate was leaking too. Both the gasket and the seal are easy to replace. If your DR's motor is still full of oil, lean the bike to the right so the oil pools elsewhere (since my motor was out of the frame, I simply set the motor on its right side). To replace the gasket, remove the six 8mm bolts. They have varying lengths (like the clutch cover) so be sure to note their locations. When pulling the cover off, use your thumb to push down on the shift shaft. Otherwise, the shift shaft may come off with the cover. This is not a disaster but there are other parts that may become displaced because of that. The shop manual is very vague (and the image is poor) when it comes to noting the proper location of those parts. Also, the shift shaft will (or should) have a circlip on it. That keeps the thrust washer properly located. Chances are, the thrust washer is 'stuck' to the cover plate (with motor oil). Pull the thrust washer off the cover and put it on the shaft. Now you won't have to worry about losing it. The old gasket should pop right off, especially if it was no longer sealing, like mine. Use a razor blade, or the like, to remove any remaining gasket material from both the engine case and the cover. Clean all gasket sealing surfaces with acetone, paint thinner, rubbing alcohol or the like. If you're replacing the shaft seal, now is the time to do it. Unlike wheel bearing dust seals, this seal does not need to be driven out of its bore. A small screw driver or hook pick will work just fine. Even if you're only replacing the seal, without removing the cover, a hook pick is the tool to use. Push the new seal into the bore with your thumb (honestly, it's that easy). Use a little wheel bearing grease to lubricate the seal (or the shift shaft). I prefer the Permatex "Ultra" line of RTV. All you need is a "haze" of RTV on the side of the gasket that will contact the engine case. Repeat the procedure with the cover. It's easier to apply the RTV to the cover, instead of the now in-place gasket, due to accessibility. Now, put the cover back in place and install the bolts, finger tight. Using a back-and-forth cross-zig-zag pattern tighten them with an 8mm socket and screwdriver handle (you don't need any more torque than that, a ratchet handle, even 1/4" drive, is too much). That's it, you're done. __________________ There are some simple thruths......and dogs know what they are - Joseph Duemer Andy holds the lead. And he will, all the way to the Highway. Today is his day. Bronco638 screwed with this post 02-25-2012 at 05:50 AM Reason: forgot the title

05-16-2012, 05:46 PM	#33
ADV8 Taumarunui..Darwin.. Joined: Nov 2007 Location: North of Sydney. Oddometer: 2,110	__________________ Les .. 1968 Husqvarna MF250 and MF360 - 1971 Norton Commando Fastback - 1973 Kawasaki H2A - 1973 Ducati 750 GT - 1973 Moto Guzzi Eldorado - 1974 Kawasaki H2B - 1974 Triumph TR5T Trophy Trail - 1981 Ducati 900 SD - 1986 Husqvarna 400 WR - 1998 Suzuki TL1000S - 1998 Suzuki TL1000S - 2007 Ducati Hypermotard 1100S - 2008 Suzuki DR780.

05-27-2012, 02:04 AM	#34
ADV8 Taumarunui..Darwin.. Joined: Nov 2007 Location: North of Sydney. Oddometer: 2,110	Whats in there pic... ? 1998 and up DR 650 transmission. __________________ Les .. 1968 Husqvarna MF250 and MF360 - 1971 Norton Commando Fastback - 1973 Kawasaki H2A - 1973 Ducati 750 GT - 1973 Moto Guzzi Eldorado - 1974 Kawasaki H2B - 1974 Triumph TR5T Trophy Trail - 1981 Ducati 900 SD - 1986 Husqvarna 400 WR - 1998 Suzuki TL1000S - 1998 Suzuki TL1000S - 2007 Ducati Hypermotard 1100S - 2008 Suzuki DR780.

01-22-2013, 08:53 AM	#44
TinkerinWstuff Take it apart Joined: Dec 2010 Location: Colorado Northern Front Range Oddometer: 1,116	effort to boost my post count stock piston with dished top: JE 10.5:1 "high compression" flat top piston: kit: kit available from Procycle, Keintech, and other sources. Not all "kits" are put together the same (which and type of gaskets that are included). I was asked to get a weight on the engine. Came up with 107.5lbs on my digital bathroom scale (with oil). I don't usually choose to believe that scale as it's always telling me I am carrying extra lbs. __________________ 1999 Suzuki DR650 1998 Honda VFR800 Interceptor http://share.findmespot.com/shared/f...KJutW9osVpn3hd

02-03-2013, 12:30 AM	#45
BergDonk Beastly Adventurer Joined: Nov 2010 Location: Snowy Mountains Oz Oddometer: 1,659	Valve Adjustment How I do it: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...&postcount=371 __________________ shed time IS quality time Check my DR650 story: BergDonks DR650 Build

06-11-2012, 05:35 AM	#36
Bob808 Adventurer Joined: Apr 2012 Oddometer: 42	Does anyone have a complete bearing list from SKF? For the whole engine, since I have it open I might as well do a complete replacement. When I opened the crankcase bearings seemed smooth, but after one week with the crankcase opened they don't feel that smooth anymore. Kind of like they have some sand in them. And seem like all of them do it now. I could get them out and clean them in gasoline real good but I could just change them all if they are not so expensive from SKF. Any link would be perfect. Thanks guys. Ah, almost forgot, the SKF ones, are they in different fitting standars? I think I can remember a discussion where you had to make sure to get the ones with the tightest tolerance. Is this the case with SKF ones or are they one size perfect fit?

07-22-2012, 12:25 AM	#38
NordieBoy Armature speller Joined: Dec 2006 Location: Kiwiland Oddometer: 6,781	Nice.

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