Fellow Inmates, help a newbie get his bike running good, pleasssee.

[disston]

We only vaguely remember details about your bike. You will have to tell us again what this is and where we are as you proceed.

Start with year/model etc. What modifications, some electronic ignition I remember, which one? Have you yet taken the carb diaphragms out to check them? When were the carbs last rebuilt?

Exactly what is the problem again?

Have you converted back to OEM ignition yet? I believe that is where you were when you had to go out of town.

[Yachtie]

Originally Posted by disston

We only vaguely remember details about your bike. You will have to tell us again what this is and where we are as you proceed.

Start with year/model etc. What modifications, some electronic ignition I remember, which one? Have you yet taken the carb diaphragms out to check them? When were the carbs last rebuilt?

Exactly what is the problem again?

Have you converted back to OEM ignition yet? I believe that is where you were when you had to go out of town.

I'm going to tackle it this weekend. Haven't had a chance to look as of yet. The ignition company says it may be there "black box module" and will send a replacement for me to try.

He does want me to double check that the coils are wired correctly to have ~ 2.4-2.8 resistance

I have no idea how to check this. Anyone mind chiming in and walking me through checking?

[disston]

I know what resistance is and I know how to check it. What I don't know is what kind of ignition you are talking about, it sounds after market w/ after market coils?

Resistance is calibrated in Ohms. It is checked with an OHM Meter or a Volt/Ohm meter (also called a VOM). Sometimes they are called Multi Meters because they check multiple functions. They may include Amps and/or Temperature but neither of those last two mentioned are important to you at this time or will ever be of any use on working on vehicle electric systems.

Do you have one of these Meters? The cheapest come from Harbor Freight and users claim they work just fine. You can get one at HF for probably less than $20. I have a little better meter from Sears, it's a Craftsman Brand. I don't remember what I paid but the modern meters are much easier to use than what we had even 10 years ago. Auto Ranging is a nice feature and most modern meters have this. You will almost invariably see only digital readout meters. The older analog dial gauge is probably hard to find.

I have a small VOM I carry in my tank bag for longer trips. It is not much bigger than a credit card except it is thicker. Very small for a VOM. I bought it years ago at Radio Shack and I think it is their brand but I also don't think they make this anymore.

If you installed this after market ignition (what is it again? I keep forgetting, or you never say) I would carefully check the wiring. If these parts are even momentarily hooked up backwards they will not work. And even when installed correctly if they were temporarily hooked up backwards they will not work.

The figure the guy on the phone gave you is 2.4 to 2.8 Ohms.

[chollo9]

Originally Posted by Bill Harris

I might suggest that you are in over your head. Basic maintenance is not difficult, but you have to have a background and knack for wrenching. And at least a shop manual. You might want to tke the bike ot an experienced airhead mechanic and get these initial problems straightened out while you are learning to work on the machine.

--Bill

I have been known to post smart-ass replies on this forum. This post is not one of them.

Bill's post quoted above is meant as good advice. "Over your head" often leads to expensive damage, not just frustration.

We all had to learn to crawl before we learned to walk. Aftermarket parts, especially aftermarket electrical parts, are tantamount to running, sprinting even.

Disston is a saint.

You already owe him a case of beer. And a carton of cigarettes. Or the equivalent of each.

[disston]

Originally Posted by chollo9

I have been known to post smart-ass replies on this forum. This post is not one of them.

Bill's post quoted above is meant as good advice. "Over your head" often leads to expensive damage, not just frustration.

We all had to learn to crawl before we learned to walk. Aftermarket parts, especially aftermarket electrical parts, are tantamount to running, sprinting even.

Disston is a saint.

You already owe him a case of beer. And a carton of cigarettes. Or the equivalent of each.

Me too, me too! I think sometimes "Now I've done it. They'll throw me out for sure, for that one". The Chollo says he agrees, LOL.

You are right about what Bill says. Electric is not something to learn in a day. Baby steps at first are advised.

( for your info I quite smoking a year and a half ago. I haven't had a drink in 15 years) (but if somebodies buying I might consider it)

[chollo9]

Originally Posted by disston

( for your info I quite smoking a year and a half ago. I haven't had a drink in 15 years) (but if somebodies buying I might consider it)

Years ago, when they banned smoking on airlines, a friend of mine who had recently quit said, "I don't care if it is banned. If the plane's going down, the first thing I'm doing is bumming one, and the second thing I'm doing is looking for my old brand!"

[kaput13]

My first plan is to try and remove the new ignition and install the stock one. Problem I face is I didn't install the new one and it has a 41 page instruction manual. Anyone in south Florida willing lens a expert hand?

You will find that THERE IS NO "expert" working on airheads around here. On a good day I tie my own shoelaces. I live in the area and have tools.

Contact me if you like.

[kaput13]

"Years ago, when they banned smoking on airlines, a friend of mine who had recently quit said, "I don't care if it is banned. If the plane's going down, the first thing I'm doing is bumming one, and the second thing I'm doing is looking for my old brand!"


Now that's funny!! Make it Camel unfiltered.

[kaput13]

Disston, what's your 1-800 number? Wait don't answer that. I saw this bumpersticker the other day....

[disston]

I'm confused.

Yachtie has the problem with a bike's ignition, after market. And now kaput13 is helping him?

The two of you guys should be able to mess it up real good. just kidding

Is converting back to OEM ignition what is now happening?

[kaput13]

The two of you guys should be able to mess it up real good. just kidding

The name thing. Didn't even see that. It's perfect. Sublime. Together we're sure to blow the thing up. Yachtie just kidding.

[Yachtie]

Sorry for such delayed responses.

The ignition company sent me a new black box module as they call it. I installed it yesterday and also went through the wiring to the coils and sure enough the pigtail wire to run them in parallel was wrong. Changed that around and went for a ride without putting the front cover back on. Bike rode like a dream, 10 minutes, 20 minutes, 30, 40, 50, 60. Wahoo. Thought I fixed it. No problems. Problem solved. Got home. Put the front cover on. Ate some lunch. Then went for another ride, and after about 20 minutes. Same damn problem as before.

Well, decided to take the cover off again, went riding around and apart from a little sputtering at the beginning once the air cooled it down she rose great again.

Emailed euromotoelectrics again and tell them this, they said it sounds like The Hall Effect Sensor is working intermittently and they will send me a new one.

Other suggestions he said were to put spacers between the cover and motor to allow more air. But still think something's not rit. The front cover was sooooo damn hot when it was having problems when it was on, and with it off even e alternator was way too hot to touch. I'm going to take some temps tomorrow because John at Euro says it should not exceed 300 f.

Anyways making progress nonetheless. And have at least been able to get some rides in with this beautiful Florida weather.

Some pics from yesterday.

[Big Bamboo]

Aha! The reason your electrics are overheating is because you've eliminated the airbox. Without it there's no cool air being drawn over the electrics. The spacers EME recommended may be just the ticket to keep it running. Nice looking bike, tho!

[chollo9]

Ow! My wrists hurt just like they used to in the late seventies! And I was in my teens!

Looks nice.

Wow, though. Alternator temp shouldn't exceed 300 degrees F? Holy shit! You mean it's okay if it runs around 280? That seems pretty friggin' hot for that component!

[Yachtie]

Originally Posted by Big Bamboo

Aha! The reason your electrics are overheating is because you've eliminated the airbox. Without it there's no cool air being drawn over the electrics. The spacers EME recommended may be just the ticket to keep it running. Nice looking bike, tho!

That makes sense to me, damn. Well I was looking at the front cover today and where the vents are already on the inside it has some flaps, almost like water guards to keep it drying in there but it prolly stops a lot of air from getting in. I think I will trim them out. And do the spacers and see how we go.

Originally Posted by chollo9

Ow! My wrists hurt just like they used to in the late seventies! And I was in my teens!

Looks nice.

Wow, though. Alternator temp shouldn't exceed 300 degrees F? Holy shit! You mean it's okay if it runs around 280? That seems pretty friggin' hot for that component!

That's what I'm saying. The wires coming off the alternator al,it's feel like there melting. We'll see tomorrow when I test the temp.