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Old 02-01-2013, 07:10 PM   #91
bwalsh
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Nice work there super samurai! I may have to order on of those coolers and do some fabrication work.
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Old 02-01-2013, 07:11 PM   #92
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This is howi ran my lines. Picked up some hose rated to stand up to oil from belfair hose and supply, but they should have some at any auto parts store.
They are not ran anywhere that heat from the exhaust will be an issue.
I had to use one little 90 deg. Stainless elbow on the line going up.
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Old 02-01-2013, 07:19 PM   #93
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The cooler is tilted back towards the tank slightly.
Dont take this as an expert set up or that i know what i am doing!:what:
I know it is not in direct air flow but it will deff. Get some flow. Thinking more of the heat radiation which is when these bikes get hot at low speed hard riding. I do have a thermo dipstick so i can monitor temps.
It would be easy to tap into a line to put a tto gauge later also.
This whole set up was less then $50 doing it all myself.
A welder, 4in cutoff wheel and 4in flap disk sander wheel for a small angle grinder.
The paint was called noble shelter paint that seems to match the stock frame when new.
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Old 02-01-2013, 07:31 PM   #94
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You did a nice job, Samurai! Thanks for documenting your work with photographs, and adding your knowledge to this thread.

Did you record oil temperatures before adding this oil cooler? If so, I would like to hear how well the oil cooler is reducing oil temperatures under the same riding conditions.

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Old 02-03-2013, 08:00 PM   #95
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Sorry spud i didnt record like you had done. It is winter and it has been sitting in my wood stove heated garage.
I have not rode in awhile, been 4 wheeling. But i do recall what it was running at temp. Wise in my head. I figure anything will help. When i get out and ride when the temps are warmer or possibly sooner i will report back. Next will be the daves mods. I dont think it has been done to mine. Ohh and i picked up another stock muffler to cut open and modify.
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Old 02-03-2013, 08:03 PM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwalsh View Post
Nice work there super samurai! I may have to order on of those coolers and do some fabrication work.
They are spendy little coolers but are made pretty good, all steel.
If you can fabricate at all it is easy, mostly time spent deciding where and how to run lines and place cooler.
I placed mine diff. Cuz i didnt want to cut and lower fender. So other options are there.
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Old 09-15-2013, 04:26 PM   #97
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Did you use all .375ID hose?
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Old 09-15-2013, 08:15 PM   #98
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Did you use all .375ID hose?
Yes, I used 3/8-inch hose I bought from the local, auto parts store.

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Old 09-17-2013, 07:47 AM   #99
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Some excellant development and results. Makes me want to plan something similar for my eventual Retro-Motard project on my old XL600. But I do have some comments that I'm not sure have been addressed:
  • Oil temps come down with the cooler, but temps above 200 F are still pretty high for engine oil in general. Use synthetic oil only?
  • Air flow behind any fender is marginal at best, so a cooler placement off to the side would be more beneficial, but more complex.
  • Flow rate/time through the cooler also impacts effective cooling, so a low restriction cooler is required because its on the low-pressure return side of the system. Flow from the bottom (inlet) to the top (outlet) of the cooler may also bring down the temps.
  • Hose temperature rating and inner tube material, must be compatible with the application.
  • Minimize the number of connections whenever possible. I applaud the idea, but WAY too many connections and hose clamps. Better hose routing and longer hose runs would simplify it.
I have worked in hydraulic hose applications for nearly 20 years. Even a low pressure hose, when at temps above 180 F, can soften significantly, and loose the ability to maintain compression on the connection points to avoid leaks. Barbed connections, especially with hose clamps should be carefully applied. Connections with sharp barbed edges, used with hose clamps, can actually cut the hose inner tube and create leak routes in your oil system.

Over time and heating cycles, hose will "thermal set" meaning it looses the "spring" needed to maintain a seal. Worm clamps loose their holding ability after the hose thermal sets, and leaks can develop. A constant-tension style hose clamp, or one that continues compression as the hose sets is better.

Use beaded tube style connections where possible, along with a constant tension style hose clamp to minimize degradationo of the connection over time.

Most low pressure hoses are not rated for oil over 212 F. Some are rated for oil up to 257 F, and some (a few) are rated to 300 F. Better to select the higher rating whenever possible. Your temp guage may read 225 F, but hot spots in the system are very likely as temperature is not always uniform in the system. The hose inner tube MUST be rated for the fluid and temperature. Otherwise the inner tube can/will break down, and possibly clog the return flow of the system and starve the pump.
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Old 09-17-2013, 04:57 PM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyvh1959 View Post
Some excellant development and results. Makes me want to plan something similar for my eventual Retro-Motard project on my old XL600. But I do have some comments that I'm not sure have been addressed:
  • Oil temps come down with the cooler, but temps above 200 F are still pretty high for engine oil in general. Use synthetic oil only?
  • Air flow behind any fender is marginal at best, so a cooler placement off to the side would be more beneficial, but more complex.
  • Flow rate/time through the cooler also impacts effective cooling, so a low restriction cooler is required because its on the low-pressure return side of the system. Flow from the bottom (inlet) to the top (outlet) of the cooler may also bring down the temps.
  • Hose temperature rating and inner tube material, must be compatible with the application.
  • Minimize the number of connections whenever possible. I applaud the idea, but WAY too many connections and hose clamps. Better hose routing and longer hose runs would simplify it.
I have worked in hydraulic hose applications for nearly 20 years. Even a low pressure hose, when at temps above 180 F, can soften significantly, and loose the ability to maintain compression on the connection points to avoid leaks. Barbed connections, especially with hose clamps should be carefully applied. Connections with sharp barbed edges, used with hose clamps, can actually cut the hose inner tube and create leak routes in your oil system.

Over time and heating cycles, hose will "thermal set" meaning it looses the "spring" needed to maintain a seal. Worm clamps loose their holding ability after the hose thermal sets, and leaks can develop. A constant-tension style hose clamp, or one that continues compression as the hose sets is better.

Use beaded tube style connections where possible, along with a constant tension style hose clamp to minimize degradationo of the connection over time.

Most low pressure hoses are not rated for oil over 212 F. Some are rated for oil up to 257 F, and some (a few) are rated to 300 F. Better to select the higher rating whenever possible. Your temp guage may read 225 F, but hot spots in the system are very likely as temperature is not always uniform in the system. The hose inner tube MUST be rated for the fluid and temperature. Otherwise the inner tube can/will break down, and possibly clog the return flow of the system and starve the pump.
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Old 09-20-2013, 05:33 AM   #101
Andyvh1959
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Ok, I know I'm wordy, and not too exciting. Been around hose too long maybe? Just points to consider based on what I've seen.
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Old 11-04-2013, 07:03 AM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyvh1959 View Post
  • Hose temperature rating and inner tube material, must be compatible with the application.

Most low pressure hoses are not rated for oil over 212 F. Some are rated for oil up to 257 F, and some (a few) are rated to 300 F. Better to select the higher rating whenever possible. Your temp guage may read 225 F, but hot spots in the system are very likely as temperature is not always uniform in the system. The hose inner tube MUST be rated for the fluid and temperature. Otherwise the inner tube can/will break down, and possibly clog the return flow of the system and starve the pump.
Aeroquip FC332 hose is rated for oil up to 300 degrees F but it doesn't make sharp bends - so use fittings or bends made from 3/8" .028" wall tubing . Hose clamps are from McMaster-Carr, their tensioning screws replaced w/ 4mm socket-heads... just 'cuz I like 'em.



Haven't gotten around to fabricating a stone guard but I'm still considering a 4"x4" Baker Precision cooler mounted up high 'n tidy. Winter's coming and I get bored easily.
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