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Old 02-01-2013, 01:39 PM   #61
GISdood
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Great pics and narrative, Fritz. I'm envious of your travel and locale while the snow piles up in the yard, here... Keep up the good work!
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Old 02-03-2013, 03:03 AM   #62
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punta del diablo, uruguay to praia do cassino, brazil

it was hard to leave punta del diablo. i could have easily stayed there for another week or month. there was a big thunderstorm the night before i left that kept me awake in my luxury shack.


playa do los pescadores, punta del diablo, uruguay by porkandcorn, on Flickr


chillin' in the hood, punta del diablo, uruguay by porkandcorn, on Flickr

after the storm, i went for a walk on the beach at about 3am. i found a strange bio-luminescent bug on the beach and he told me it was time to go. always moving onto the next place, eager to explore and see what i can get myself into...


strange luminescent bug i found on the beach, punta del diablo, uruguay by porkandcorn, on Flickr

i was talking to some argentines, who feel that americans spend too much time traveling from place to place, and not enough time hunkered down in one spot, enjoying it. i understand the sentiment, but this trip is to see a continent as best i can in 4 months. to do that, you must keep moving, even when you'd prefer to stay put. so it was with a heavy heart that i tossed the gear back on the bike and left punta at a bright and early 2pm.

before i left town, i stopped by to say goodbye to my new friends at the arrai beach bar. they were good to me while i was there, and made me feel at home. they always had good music, and my caipirinhas were always tasty and strong. they decided that i should have a ceremonial piece of corn to pay homage to my 'porkandcorn' riding name, as well as hold the official beach bar sign. what?! - no pork!!!??? if i were on facebook, i would friend you guys, but i'm one of the only 4 or 5 americans who are not on facebook. so i linked to your twitter page above. stay in touch and nacho, i want you to email me your music playlist... or else!!


arrai beach bar advertisement, punta del diablo, uruguay by porkandcorn, on Flickr

so then it was back on the road and a 30 minute drive to the brazilian border. switching into portugues proved trickier than i thought, because at the border i seemed to always default to spanish. with time. i just have to pause a moment before i speak to switch the brain over - that is not something i am used to doing when speaking portuguese. funny to think that i learned portugues 10 years ago, and that 10 years ago exactly at this time, i was living in florianopolis, brazil for the year. time flies when you are having fun. i'm excited for my return and to see my old friends from that time.


brazil border, chuy, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr


another immigration, chuy, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr


farmland, curral alto, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr


farmland, curral alto, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

once in brazil, i rode up BR471, a rural two-lane road through lush green and yellow-green fields dotted with cows. in one stretch, there was a nature preserve for capybara, pig sized rodents that are native to south america. as, advertised they were hanging out on the road size and in the river that ran along the road. for an enormous rodent, they are pretty cute.


capybura as advertised, taim, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr


capybury, taim, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

the immigration officials back at the border told me to be careful driving in this park, because the capybara are always on the road and getting hit by cars and trucks. thankfully, one of them got plowed over and its skin was left behind so that i could capture it's decomposing cuteness in all it's glory. they seem pretty stupid. when i pull up along side them on the road, they would freeze and pretend they weren't there. but i knew they were because i am not a stupid, pig-sized rodent. i chased a couple down to get a close up, but they made a goofy noise and ran away from me. might have been the klim riding suit and the bright yellow helmet...


decomposing capybura, farmland, taim, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

after about a 5 hour road day, i didn't feel like staying in an inland city yet, so i wandered out to the beach again - to praia do cassino, brazil. it's a family holiday spot were thousands of poeple roam the main drag at night, walking back and forth, eating street food, sitting in lawn chairs, while packs of samba drum troops roam the streets. it was interesting to walk back and forth a couple times.


nighttime streets, praia do cassino, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

the diversity of people in brazil is greater - there are whites, blacks, browns, and one red (me with sunburn from punta d. diablo). it's easier to blend in here, and that makes life just a hair easier for me. i don't care how confident you are - if people stare at you 24/7, it begins to wear on your after a while.

the internet on the expansive front patio of the hotel was calling me, as i had some research to do regarding my riding through the coastal mountains for the next couple of days. excited about the roads, and the little towns i'll find along the way. brazilians are very warm people. it's good to be back here, and i'm excited for the next couple of weeks that i'll be here.
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Old 02-04-2013, 06:12 PM   #63
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cassino, brazil to gramado, brazil

i've started using the motorcycle to my advantage. before i was fully ready to go, i pulled the bike out from it's overnight parking spot up in front of the hotel. so while i was packing, a steady stream of onlookers were gawking at the machine. by the time i drug my duffle bag out of the hotel room, there were 3 dudes hanging out by the bike, eager to find out what country the oregon plates were from. now, when i pull into a town, i just go to the main drag before i look for a hotel, and hang out in my riding gear for a while until people come up and tell me where to stay, what restaurants to eat at, etc. it's proving much easier than my previous methods.


hotel cassino, praia da cassino, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

one of the guys at the hotel, who happens to own a hyabusa 1300, gave me some outstanding advice on my current route in the mountains of southern brazil. he also let me know that i could ride along the beach for 10 miles to get to my ferry in rio grande, brazil - as opposed to a boring trucking road that i would have otherwise taken. it was a nice surprise to start the day out with - thanks to mario - who happened to be riding by on his bicycle when i was stopped to take a photo. pretty fun to ride the hard packed sand, swerving away from the waves as they ran up to, and at times, engulfed the road.


sand road along the beach, praia da cassino, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr


thanks for the tip, praia da cassino, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

i made it to rio grande to find the ferry at 10am, and was disappointed to be told the ferry didn't leave until 2pm. i was hoping to have a long day of riding, and that would seriously cut it short. the lesson learned many times before is to never just ask one person's opinion, and don't take no for an answer. i asked 3 more people, and finally, someone said - "oh, you have a motorcycle - well there's a pedestrian ferry leaving in a half hour and they take motorcycles on the front of the boat!" so i quickly went off to find the place to buy the ticket, and then was loading the tiger onto the bow of the boat. i had to pop off my touratech zega pro cases to squeeze through the tiny gate on the boat, but it fit.


ferry to sao jose do norte, rio grande, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

on the boat, i met a really nice guy, mauro, who lives in rio grande, but was taking the ferry over to sao jose do norte to have lunch at his favorite seafood restaurant. we talked for the 30 minute passage across the water, and he invited me to have lunch with him. while i was off-loading the bike, he went and got a table at the very busy locals-favorite eatery. fresh fish fillet with a shrimp sauce. yum.


after lunch at brisamar restaurant, sao jose do norte, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

then it was off to ride north through a very remote area and i had to make sure my tank and reserve tank were both full. it was about a 2.5 hour ride to capao da canoa, brazil, the overnight spot recommended by mauro or maybe someone else. beautiful lush fields, more capybara, lots of sea birds, and a section of road about 50 km long with pot-holes that could seriously ruin my entire adventure. it was a bit like playing frogger - my full attention was devoted to not hitting capybara, ducking behind the windshield for birds scared up by the engine, dodging potholes, and eventually, getting caught in a massive downpour that put the klim badlands goretex riding gear to the test. (dry as a bone after 2 hours in heavy rain.)

capao da canoa was also getting hammered by the rainstorm when i pulled into town. but again, the bike helped me find a place to sleep for the night. i got it parked in the hotel owner's private garage, and then ventured out to find a bite to eat. brazilians are afraid of the rain. the streets were packed with people, caught and huddled under very minimal cover wherever it could be found. maybe it melts them? anyway, this pacific northwesterner just walked down the street like it was a sunny day, getting stares of wonderment from the rain-averse brasileiros. i found a place to get some food, and met some dudes on holiday from porto alegre, brazil.


downpour in capao da canoa, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr


dudes, capao da canoa, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr


scuba-moto-duck, capao da canoa, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

the next morning, i headed inland from the coast to explore the mountains of rio grande do sul state, famous for canyons, waterfalls, and really fun twisty roads. i had one good climb, but there are never any vista points and no shoulders, so you'll have to take my word that it was amazing. eventually, i reached the top of the plateau, and the scenery turned to rolling hills, and ancient remnants of mountains.


looking west, terra da areia, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr


looking west, terra da areia, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr


rota do sol near tainhas, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr


hills at 3000 ft, sao francisco de paula, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr


hills at 3000 ft, sao francisco de paula, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr


caracol falls, canela, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

at about 4pm, i was tired of riding and just pulling into gramado, brazil - a really beautiful city with strong german heritage. there is an incredible view of the quilombo valley from many parts of the town. i found a hotel that seemed like it had the best view, and went in only expecting to have a look and go find a cheap pousada (guest house) for the night. i told the guys at the front desk about my trip, and asked them what their best deal was for me. they came down from 300.00 USD a night to 60.00 USD a night - i'm on the top floor and here's the view from my balcony:


view of quilombo valley from hotel tuscana, gramado, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

tomorrow will be a really beautiful day of riding, as i only scratched the surface of what the area has to offer today. i'm hoping to make it to florianopolis sometime wednesday afternoon, so i have a couple of days to kill up here checking out the great roads and great views.

porkandcorn screwed with this post 02-08-2013 at 02:25 PM
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Old 02-04-2013, 08:55 PM   #64
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Greetings again from Iowa. I'm enjoying the photos and stories a lot.

Keep living the dream and thanks for taking the rest of us along with your posts.
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Old 02-04-2013, 08:59 PM   #65
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Yo PORKANDCORN.
Rage here, enjoying the trip with you!
I'm a friend of Bears from CA.
We spoke a bit through Skype a few weeks back.
Nice work on keeping us couch riders up to speed with your adventures.
Keep em coming!

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Old 02-05-2013, 12:17 AM   #66
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Excellent RR! Really enjoying your experience vicariously.
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Old 02-05-2013, 02:27 AM   #67
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thanks everybody. knowing that you are enjoying the report makes the effort put into it worthwhile. i'll keep it up.
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Old 02-05-2013, 08:46 AM   #68
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Greetings from Beavertown... Been following you for quite awhile. Just found your report on ADV. forum. A few of us were talking about you at the last TRAP meeting breakfast. Gods speed on your trip. Noticed the dog tags on one of your pics. Which branch of service were you in?? Thank you for serving! Ride safe!

Greg


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Old 02-05-2013, 03:07 PM   #69
bESS
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Fritz:

I've been following you since your BC-Alberta shakedown ride and farkling of your Tiger

great photos. thought I should check in to let you know


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Old 02-05-2013, 03:21 PM   #70
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subscribed... go fellow Oregonian.
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Old 02-05-2013, 03:27 PM   #71
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A Man & His Duck Explore South America

Quote:
Originally Posted by porkandcorn View Post
i have chosen a rubber duck as my traveling companion. we have traveled together before. i used to take him everywhere. i stopped doing this for some reason that i don't know. maybe this is what i am here in south america to find out. i feel better now that he and i are traveling, and exploring the world together again. don't laugh at the duck - he has been a valuable asset in many parts of the world. something about him bridges the gap between cultures, lowers people's guard. i think he is a symbol of innocence, of youth, and of wonder. everyone loves a rubber duck.

we only live once. a man and his duck must make the most of it.
I broke into a sly grin when I saw the title. WTH!

Duck short for Ducati? Dude nicknamed Duck? No, NOT a rubber duck!

Now, I don't think there is really anything wrong with a man traveling SA with his r.duck but I am worried about the tiger and the r.duck. I just don't want to see any unnecessary or untoward social behavior.

Safe travels for the three of ya's...
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Old 02-06-2013, 02:00 PM   #72
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thanks for jumping on board everyone. for the oregonians - just for the record i am not a duck, nor a beaver fan - despite the duck tattoo and the rubber duck on the bike. i have no allegiance. i'm neutral, like switzerland.

rockaway, pass this ride report along to the other trap rats - i didn't get a chance to put the word out before i left. and the dog tag is actually an emergency contacts/medical info tag incase things go sideways...
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Old 02-06-2013, 04:14 PM   #73
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gramado, brazil to monte negro, brazil (with a fever of 101)

tuesday, february 5, 2013

today was interesting. i rode about 150 miles of dirt roads, with an increasingly worsening fever. not sure what i got ahold of in gramado, but my body was fighting something. i barely felt it when i left the hotel, and within 15 miles of gramado i was onto my first of many dirt roads for the day. i was winding my way north into the higher serras (hills), on my way to the famous paved twisties that wrap down the mountain between bon jardim da serra, brazil, and lauro muller, brazil. i wanted to ride some dirt, but regardless, it was the only way to get there from gramado that didn't involved oppressive truck traffic and breathing toxic exhaust for half the day.


day of dirt, east of canela, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

the gps was confused most of the day. the hard maps and the mapswithme iphone app proved helpful in navigating the sometimes confusing tangle of dirt roads. even with the fever getting worst, around noon i was into some really beautiful rolling high hills at about 4,000 ft. the air was colder, and it was threatening rain off and on all day. that would have really sucked in my condition. the heated warm and safe gloves were a big hit today.


cattle ranchers, north of lajeado grande, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr


cattle ranchers, north of lajeado grande, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

around 1pm, i was really hurting. very weak and achy - not a good condition to be riding sometimes complicated dirt roads that varied from soft dirt, to rock paths, with streams running across at times.


twisty dirt road south of bom jesus, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

as much as i hated to do it, i made the decision at são josé dos ausentes to skip the twisties and attempt a ride back to the coast. the road north that i chose to abandone was more dirt - about 60 miles of it. i knew it wouldn't be safe. the road east toward timbé do sul, brazil appeared to be paved. well, that lovely pavement ended abruptly. i stopped, got off the bike, and was really hurting. i could tell i had a pretty bad fever - luckily none of the other bad stuff that typically comes with that, except a bit of nausea from time to time. as long as i was riding, i didn't notice the nausea - there's another thing that motorcycling cures.

it was starting to rain, and here i am 50 miles out in the middle of nowhere, looking up a gnarly dirt road that i knew i could not pass - it was much worse that the other option, and by stopping a truck coming from that direction, i confirmed this.


end of the pavement, east of são josé dos ausentes by porkandcorn, on Flickr

so all i could do was head back to the better dirt road north, keep hydrating and hope i was getting better instead of worse. i was getting worse. about 20 miles in i saw a few signs for pousadas do fazendas (farm guesthouses). i knew i had to stop riding. i picked the first one. bad choice, as the road dropped down into some very technical large rocks and boulders. after about a 1/2 mile of that, i turned around back for the main road.


before the fog settled, near silveira, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

the next sign was for the pousada fezendo monte negro. monte negro is the highest point in rio grande do sul state, at about 5,000 ft. by this time, the neblina (fog) was dropping in quick, and i couldn't see beyond 20 feet. it was starting to rain. pretty much a disaster scenario. luckily, the pousada was only a kilometer down the road. i pulled into what looked like something out of a weird dream. i'm sure that in the deep fog, i was an odd site. a woman came out and i explained to her, and her kids, that i was sick and wanted to stay the night. i told them that i didn't need a doctor. i was trying not to worry them.


pousada fazendo monte negro, monte negro, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

at about 2pm after i put my things away, i was shaking and sweating. i went to lay down, and ended up at least partially breaking my fever during 4 hours of sleep under a mountain of natural wool bedspreads. i had an odd dream in my sleep were i was riding on top of those strange trees i was seeing all day, with men on horseback chasing me.


araucaria tree, south of bom jesus, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

i wrote up this blog for the day while i was waiting for a home cooked meal to be prepared. chicken soup with homemade dumplings, fresh homemade bread - pretty much just what the doctor ordered. now it's about 8pm and the fever is coming back, so down the hatch with some nyquil and back to bed.

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Old 02-06-2013, 04:42 PM   #74
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monte negro, brazil to florianopolis, brazil

wednesday, february 6, 2013

woke up with almost no signs of the fever that i was suffering from the day before. had a beautiful home cooked breakfast, and set off to complete the 60 miles of dirt road to the next town, bom jardim da serra, brazil.


pousada fazendo monte negro, monte negro, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr


chamber of redemption, pousada fazendo monte negro, monte negro, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr


greeter, pousada fazendo monte negro, monte negro, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr


bridge over river that divides rio grande state and santa catarena state, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr


first vista in santa catarina state, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr


first vista in santa catarina state, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

from there, it was about a 20 miles ride to the east until i would encounter "brazil's most beautiful road", the serra do rio do rastro.

well, you don't always get what you want in life. after this 3 day detour to see and ride this road, the entire thing was completely closed in with fog. the descent was terrifying. worse fog than the night before up on the mountain. i literally could not see 5 feet in front of me. and there were enormous trucks going up and down. because my visor was fogging up, and i couldn't hear traffic, i took off my helmet and coasted down most of the road with my bike in neutral and the engine off. eventually, the fog lifted a bit and i suited up and fired up the bike again. i'm sure it's an amazing road if it doesn't happen to suck that day. i laughed it off with another motorcyclist i met near the bottom. he'd come from about 12 hours north in brazil to ride the road. here's a couple of shots from google.


serra do rio do rastro, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr


serra do rio do rastro, brazil by porkandcorn, on Flickr

came into florianopolis, brazil around 2pm today. the roads and highways are still familiar. i found my way to jureré beach on the north end of the island, my home for the next 6 days, without any maps. just like i remember it. kind of an odd feeling. i'm staying a night at one of the pousadas that my friend recommended, but i spent the afternoon looking around for something else - the owner is a bit of a bitch, and she lied to me about having accessible parking for the bike for the week. it's carnival here friday through tuesday, and everything is $$$$. found a much nicer place, for less, with very friendly owners about 8 blocks away. the next report will be from there.

porkandcorn screwed with this post 02-07-2013 at 08:19 PM
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Old 02-07-2013, 09:21 AM   #75
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looking forward to some pics of carnival! one of my goals for someday.
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