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Old 02-04-2013, 05:30 PM   #1
Ravenslair OP
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Fuel line replacement '04 1150GSA

I purchased the chromed brass fittings from Beemer Boneyard to replace my OEM plastic ones. I am replacing the fuel line as well. I purchased the FI rated fuel line and clamps from Beemer Boneyard at the same time. I hate to be anal, but I am going to be. Here are my anally related questions (as it relates to this project, not what you are currently thinking):

-Where the fuel line attaches to the hard plastic lines that go to the injectors, there is a steel ring under the OEM clamp. Do I need to try to get that under the FI clamps before tightening them down, or are the clamps sufficient?

-What should I torque the FI clamps to? (I told you I was being anal)

-What OD/ID fuel line do I use for the cross over line on my Adv tank? I assume I cannot use the larger FI fuel line and clamps since the OEM line is narrower. Does it have to be FI rated fuel line?

Any other words of wisdom would be appreciated. Thanks.
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Old 02-04-2013, 07:39 PM   #2
mudmullet
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best mod I've made

I love those quick disconnects. It's so easy to pull the tank.

The crossover line is smaller than the other lines. I just used regular 1/4" fuel line, but the other line was the expensive fuel injected stuff. The parts store didn't have the 8 mm, so I got some 5/16" line. It's almost the same.

I don't recall a ring underneath the stock clamps, so I don't think I used them. As far as tightness, make it tight enough to not leak and loose enough to not deform the line. It doesn't take much, especially on the barbed fittings. Just a little tension will do. No need to crank down on any of them. Just snug them up.

Definitely use fuel injection clamps, and not the regular little clamps. Put it together, check the clamps in a few days and you should be good.
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Old 02-04-2013, 07:49 PM   #3
roger 04 rt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ravenslair View Post
I purchased the chromed brass fittings from Beemer Boneyard to replace my OEM plastic ones. I am replacing the fuel line as well. I purchased the FI rated fuel line and clamps from Beemer Boneyard at the same time. I hate to be anal, but I am going to be. Here are my anally related questions (as it relates to this project, not what you are currently thinking):

-Where the fuel line attaches to the hard plastic lines that go to the injectors, there is a steel ring under the OEM clamp. Do I need to try to get that under the FI clamps before tightening them down, or are the clamps sufficient?

-What should I torque the FI clamps to? (I told you I was being anal)

-What OD/ID fuel line do I use for the cross over line on my Adv tank? I assume I cannot use the larger FI fuel line and clamps since the OEM line is narrower. Does it have to be FI rated fuel line?

Any other words of wisdom would be appreciated. Thanks.
1. The OEM clamp is an oetiker which has a steel ring under it. Discard the ring.
2. Tighten your clamp until it makes a very slight indentation in the hose.
3. Don't know about the crossover line.
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Old 02-04-2013, 08:35 PM   #4
Ravenslair OP
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Thanks for the replies. Just finished with the FI rated lines. Fairly quick and straightforward. I tossed the old clamps and steel rings and only used the FI rated clamps that came with the kit. I figured I did not want to over tighten, so tightened a little past indentation. The two connection points on the tank (fuel plate) itself are almost fully tightened as it was fairly easy to just slip the hose off if I only tightened the clamps to the indentation point. Hopefully that is not a bad thing. I still need to do the crossover line and will stop to get some standard fuel line tomorrow.

These chromed brass fittings are SO much nicer and smoother. They should have been standard equipment in the first place.
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Old 02-05-2013, 09:04 AM   #5
roger 04 rt
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You probably thought of this but it's good to position the screw clamps in a way that the sharp parts of them don't make contact with anything they could cut.
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Old 02-05-2013, 10:09 AM   #6
JimVonBaden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roger 04 rt View Post
1. The OEM clamp is an oetiker which has a steel ring under it. Discard the ring.
2. Tighten your clamp until it makes a very slight indentation in the hose.
3. Don't know about the crossover line.


The crossover tube has no pressure, so no worries about FI line.

Jim
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Old 02-05-2013, 10:48 AM   #7
Ravenslair OP
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Originally Posted by roger 04 rt View Post
You probably thought of this but it's good to position the screw clamps in a way that the sharp parts of them don't make contact with anything they could cut.
I did, but definitely appreciate the reminder. I did have one installed that would have been a problem but spun it around a bit. I also added a bit of loop (from hook and loop velcro) where the high pressure line was sitting on the crash bar. Figured that would give it a nice soft place to rest. Just need to grab some narrower fuel line for the cross over.

How often do you guys replace your external fuel lines? I want to set a service reminder. I already check them on a regular basis, but replacing them regularly is a fairly cheap way to avoid a problem down the road.

I recently got my bike. They were in pretty good shape and I would assume based on the paperwork I received they were original.
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Old 02-06-2013, 03:27 PM   #8
DRONE
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The other thing about positioning, is to remember that the QD's come apart with just a little push against the button. So if anything bumps that button while the fuel line is under pressure you could have a fire. The first time I did mine, it wasn't until I had everything back together before I realized that one of my QD's needed to be rotated 180 degrees.

Another little trick, and I just learned this, is to buy TWO of the QD's for the crossover line and put a QD on each side. Then, when removing and replacing your tank, you don't have to fuss around trying to fish the crossover line over to the other side.
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Old 02-06-2013, 03:34 PM   #9
Ravenslair OP
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Originally Posted by DRONE View Post
The other thing about positioning, is to remember that the QD's come apart with just a little push against the button. So if anything bumps that button while the fuel line is under pressure you could have a fire. The first time I did mine, it wasn't until I had everything back together before I realized that one of my QD's needed to be rotated 180 degrees.

Another little trick, and I just learned this, is to buy TWO of the QD's for the crossover line and put a QD on each side. Then, when removing and replacing your tank, you don't have to fuss around trying to fish the crossover line over to the other side.
Will double-check the button placement. I am pretty sure I thought of that, but it is always good to check again. I did buy two of the 90degree QD's for just that purpose. Should make tank removal a bit easier. Thanks
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Old 02-06-2013, 06:45 PM   #10
JimVonBaden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRONE View Post
The other thing about positioning, is to remember that the QD's come apart with just a little push against the button. So if anything bumps that button while the fuel line is under pressure you could have a fire. The first time I did mine, it wasn't until I had everything back together before I realized that one of my QD's needed to be rotated 180 degrees.

Another little trick, and I just learned this, is to buy TWO of the QD's for the crossover line and put a QD on each side. Then, when removing and replacing your tank, you don't have to fuss around trying to fish the crossover line over to the other side.
From my experience the QD not only needs the button pushed in, but some pressure needs to be exerted to push the two parts together before they will come apart.

Also, the pressure won't let the fuel out, they seal when opened. That is the point of them.

Jim
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Old 02-06-2013, 07:35 PM   #11
roger 04 rt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimVonBaden View Post
From my experience the QD not only needs the button pushed in, but some pressure needs to be exerted to push the two parts together before they will come apart.

Also, the pressure won't let the fuel out, they seal when opened. That is the point of them.

Jim
I've found with the chromed metal QDs that they open quite easily. There have been 2/3 occasions in the last year where I'm sure I've seated the QD and heard the click. Then after moving cables, etc. near the QD find that its open. It is probably due to hurrying but it seems to happen too easily. When it does, they don't leak. If the high pressure line, the bike doesn't run. If its the low pressure line the bike will start but run badly.

The plastic QDs seem to shroud the plunger button where on the chrome QD it is more exposed.

As a result I've started tie-wrapping the QDs to the frame.
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