ntm WR250-Z dual sport. looking for mods, tips, and suggestions

[Sub Zero]

I picked up a WR250-Z 2 stroke a few weeks back, I intend on getting a plate for it and commuting on it. There are those of you out there that will say it cant be done and thats a bad idea, but ive done it before with a 1984 IT490 and absolutely loved that bike. Ive always been a big 4t guy and its been a while since ive had a 2 stroke in my garage. (let alone a kick only bike. i've gotten used to electric starting). I dont really have too much trouble starting it cold, though after running and riding it for a while, if i shut it off, i very rarely can get it started again. the bike is bone stock. the previous owner said he never did any rebuilds on it yet it seems to run just fine. though are there any performance mods or reliability mods i can install or buy to make starting easier? another concern is getting the best fuel mileage i can. I dont want to eat up my gas money. anyone familiar with this bike? tips? suggestions? mods to do? im all ears!


pic
bike looks a little rough but i intend to replace all the plastics, including put on a more appropriate headlight to replace the shitty hack job the prev owner did in his backyard. that wet spot under the bike is not from the WR. its from a potted plant i moved to lean the bike against the wall.

[Rot Box]

Great bikes The biggest gripe I had with them was the enormous fuel tank that really didn't hold all that much fuel. I prefer the aftermarket (higher capacity) YZ tank/seat combo. Same amount of fuel along with gaining nearly 5" more seat room. Anyway if she isn't starting good you check/tune your pilot jetting. That should make all the difference in the world if everything else is in order.

[stainlesscycle]

Originally Posted by Rot Box

Anyway if she isn't starting good you check/tune your pilot jetting.

+1

hot start hard starting is usually rich condition from:
pilot too rich
float level way off
float needle not seating

it could also be weak ignition but that's not usually the case... it also could be low compression, but that makes normally cold starts hard also ... what's your plug look like after it's hot?

[Sub Zero]

Thanks! Ill look into those things. makes sense too. Though about the gas tank size, im not too worried about it. I'm used to owning bikes with big ass gas tanks. my previous bike to the WR was an XR650L with an oversized 4 gallon IMS tank so this 3 gallon one feels slim to me

[buls4evr]

Float needle and seal check seems to be in order. Is that a gas spot I see right under the bike at the carb?. Gas coming out of overflow means no seal there. If flooding all the time then it will start hard. Another indicator? You have a fuel puddle coming out of the front of the muffler and dripping onto the r/side swingarm. Fix these things first before you make all kinds of carb changes! Then there is your pre-mix ratio....... Oh no....not getting into that one.

[third eye]

You might want to browse the thread I started last summer on my WR. One thing I overlooked when I first got my bike is the fuel petcock. Drain the tank and check the condition of the filters attached inside. Mine was completely rotted out and clogged with junk but the bike had been sitting for a long time. Have fun

[third eye]

Originally Posted by buls4evr

Float needle and seal check seems to be in order. Is that a gas spot I see right under the bike at the carb?. Gas coming out of overflow means no seal there. If flooding all the time then it will start hard. Another indicator? You have a fuel puddle coming out of the front of the muffler and dripping onto the r/side swingarm. Fix these things first before you make all kinds of carb changes! Then there is your pre-mix ratio....... Oh no....not getting into that one.

My bike was dripping from the exhaust also before I changed the carb. The keihin makes a big difference