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Old 02-07-2013, 07:05 AM   #61
Juanjo_NY
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Originally Posted by Hastelloy-X View Post
How do you sharpen serated blades?

According to this video the Work Sharp WSKTS can sharpen serated blades

2:20

in few days I'll be able to tell you first hand!
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Old 02-07-2013, 10:46 AM   #62
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Originally Posted by Hastelloy-X View Post
How do you sharpen serated blades?
I just sit down quietly away from the bustle at work. Put my feet up, get the small round files out and....the magnifying glass.Not much different than sharpening a chain saw and that's what I use a chain saw file. I can probably do that 5-6 times before the knife needs replacement. Well not exactly replacement I just leave it there as a "staff knife" and get them to buy me a new one altough she said no last time. I'll be fine, new budget is coming up....I'll get one eventually.Will be the last one, then I can hang them all up for good.

Quick touch ups, out comes the steel.
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Old 02-07-2013, 02:06 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by nevermind View Post
I've also heard you sharpen serrations on the flat side of the blade with normal stones. Complete bunk or just another way?

I've done that to improve one in the field, but it usually leaves a burr or uneven edge on the concave side, which is far from finished. Better than nothing, but far from ideal.
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Old 02-07-2013, 03:16 PM   #64
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I've done that to improve one in the field, but it usually leaves a burr or uneven edge on the concave side, which is far from finished. Better than nothing, but far from ideal.
Hitting bones does that to them, curls the edge toward the concave side and then they don't cut all that well. I like mine to saw through anything....small bones, frozen meats and then go on to tomatoes.

Old ones "sort of" resharpened are the best garden knives, cut through them roots way down there.

35 years of handlking knives, only nasty cut I ever had was from one of them serrated, a brand new one at that. Sure hit my finger bone.
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Old 02-08-2013, 09:04 PM   #65
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Bob Kramer is a great salesman, that's for sure.

One principle to remember about knives, is that two things affect sharpness. This goes for your kitchen gear, your field gear, or even your sword.


1. Edge geometry, the shape of those two planes intersecting, determine "how sharp."

2. Metallurgy and the heat treatment of your steel, determine "for how long."

I can put a razor's edge on a stainless crap butter knife. It just won't stay there forever. You can buy expensive stones, jigs, and tools, to get a consistent process made easier. You can find a handful of rocks in the woods that will do it too, if your technique and consistency is good enough. The secret, if there is one, is what Bob mentions in his video there, consistent angle and pressure... along with what I contend is an oft-unrecognized part, which is the condition of the edge. Those very fine stones, above 2000 grit, polish more than remove mass. A polished edge has no "tooth", and doesn't saw, it slices. It can be like a little lightsaber in your hand, and may not appear sharp using the usual calloused thumb test.


The sharpest blade, if not made of an adequate steel that was also properly heat treated to ensure edge retention will not stay sharp as long as one made for that purpose. Two knives of the exact same metal can be made for better edge retention, or easier field sharpening where you don't have all the fancy tools available. Some of the modern super-steels try to achieve both, with mixed results. It's always a trade-off, and there's no one knife that will do it all, all the time, as well as a specialized tool.
I'm not one to quote long posts, normally, but this one deserves another look by most of us. It's very good.
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Old 02-08-2013, 09:27 PM   #66
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Think I posted this pic on the other knife thread.

Falkniven F1 Zytel sheath with sharpener pad attached(held in place with a peel and stick adhesive).



Beats using a rock!!!
The smaller Falkniven folder is my EDC.
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Old 02-08-2013, 10:29 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by Hastelloy-X View Post
How do you sharpen serated blades?
The edges of the triangular stones of the spyderco sharpmaker keep the cheap serrated bread knife I have cutting bread. It's the only serrated knife I use. Works good enough for my needs.
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Old 02-08-2013, 10:44 PM   #68
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A wooden dowel, sanded to the right profile if need be, and wrapped in wet/dry sandpaper will do the job very well. That's what I'd use to sharpen carving tools if I wanted to touch up the inside. If you want to go overboard on sharpness, you could load the dowel with honing/buffing compound.
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Old 02-09-2013, 06:13 AM   #69
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Originally Posted by bmwktmbill View Post
Falkniven F1 Zytel sheath with sharpener pad attached(held in place with a peel and stick adhesive).

I really like your idea, what type of pad is that?
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Old 02-09-2013, 09:01 PM   #70
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I really like your idea, what type of pad is that?
It's a Fallkniven product.

http://www.fallkniven.com/en/shop/de...sharpeners/d3t

Available in the USA here...

http://www.amazon.com/Fallkniven-Kni.../dp/B0091WCXK8


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Old 02-10-2013, 03:42 PM   #71
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if its a working knife, use the bottom of a pottery coffee mug.

tip-
drink the coffee first!
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Old 02-10-2013, 05:45 PM   #72
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ty sir!
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Old 02-10-2013, 09:31 PM   #73
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For a convex edge, a mouse pad and wet sandpaper 400 thru 2000 then a leather strop and you will be able to split an atom with little cost.

You will also be able to cut yourself clean and deep with barely a touch, ask me how I know
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Old 02-10-2013, 09:47 PM   #74
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Dosen't matter how I sharpen them , first the wife says "honey the knives are dull again". So I sharpen them , tell her " dear they are sharp". Next Damn it I just cut my self repeat every 3-4 months
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Old 02-11-2013, 11:15 AM   #75
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My wife complains that the knives need sharpening again. I tell her when she quits banging them around in the sink with the dirty dishes, I'll sharpen them.
(But I do love that woman)
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