lubing trans spline and leaking neutral switch

[Kai Ju]

Originally Posted by ME 109

There is a difference between a short cut, and the quickest way to do a job.
I can have my tranny on the floor in about 45 minutes. It must take you a long time disston?

Here is my method:

Once you have disconnected the flange bolts, clutch cable, throw out mechanism and airbox, brake pedal and brake rod.....

Thread a tiedown through the rear wheel over the rear fender between the seat and the tail light. Remove the swingarm pivot bolts, and pull back on the wheel. Leave the shocks hooked up. As you pull the wheel back the swing arm will slide out between the two frame crossmembers. Tighten the tie down to secure the assembly in place. I usually slide a piece of wood between the tire and the ground to give the whole mess a bit more support.
When you put it back together connect the drive shaft first and finger tighten the four flange bolts, loosen the tie down and allow the swingarm to swing forward. You may have to jiggle the wheel a bit to engage the splines at the pinion shaft.
Put everything back together and torque the four flange bolts by holding the rear brake.
It's a lot easier to thread the bolts in while the swingarm us pulled back.

[Wirespokes]

With all the stuff you've gotta remove, Disston, I'd think you'd move the engine forward instead. I've heard of removing both engine bolts or just the rear one (the method I used). The two different methods each require special tools - removing swingarm axles or exh nuts.

It's nice not having to remove the swingarm axles since that requires a bit of cleaning to ensure crud and grime doesn't get forced into the bearings upon re-assembly.

Keep looking at those pix LLB - eventually you'll get it looking as good again... one little step at a time!

It still runs as good, and that's the important thing. Every time you throw a leg over you'll be reminded of the great 2012 adventure!

[disston]

I don't think there is a disagreement here. There are just different variations on doing the same thing. Probably a good idea to give somebody who has not done this before a couple of options and he will figure out what way he wants to do it.

[Kai Ju]

I agree, it's just once again proof that there is more than one way to skin a cat.

My method was taught to me by a long time BMW mechanic when I first started out at the dealership I worked at for five years. Can't take credit for coming up with that one on my own.

[craydds]

Originally Posted by Kai Ju

Here is my method:

Once you have disconnected the flange bolts, clutch cable, throw out mechanism and airbox, brake pedal and brake rod.....

Thread a tiedown through the rear wheel over the rear fender between the seat and the tail light. Remove the swingarm pivot bolts, and pull back on the wheel. Leave the shocks hooked up. As you pull the wheel back the swing arm will slide out between the two frame crossmembers. Tighten the tie down to secure the assembly in place. I usually slide a piece of wood between the tire and the ground to give the whole mess a bit more support.
When you put it back together connect the drive shaft first and finger tighten the four flange bolts, loosen the tie down and allow the swingarm to swing forward. You may have to jiggle the wheel a bit to engage the splines at the pinion shaft.
Put everything back together and torque the four flange bolts by holding the rear brake.
It's a lot easier to thread the bolts in while the swingarm us pulled back.

+1. Well put, clear instructions. KJ, that is the way I do it, too. LLB, if you really wanted a huge amount of room, you could do it disston's way - nothing wrong with that, it is not hard, just time consuming.

[LandLeftBehind]

Fantastic. With all of this information I feel confident taking this job on. Ill be sure to let you guys know how it all goes and if anything interesting happens.

Probably talk to some of you more down the road when I tackle my front end problems....

[LandLeftBehind]

The going is good but slow. Still waiting on some supplies to come in. In the meanwhile I wanted to consult you gentlemen on a few matters.

A.) Any good cleaners to use on a really grungy trans? In addition to trans oil and grime, there are some tough deposits where the airbox sits. Simple green doesnt quite do it. Im concerned that something like brake cleaner might get into the trans housing.

B.)Approximately how much torque should I apply while installing the neutral switch?

C.) I want to replace the gearshift lever oil seal. My understanding is one simply has to remove the allen bolt that the lever pivots on, pull off the lever, and replace the seal. I am very nervous about doing this because everything wants to move and Im afraid of breaking the gearshift mechanism. Should I just go for it?

[LandLeftBehind]

Also, I appear to be missing the special washers for the rear wheel bolts that Clymer says are necessary. I have no idea why they are missing. Should I pick up a set of these?

[disston]

So it finally happens. Three pages into a thread an the year model of the bike becomes an issue. It always is an issue but it's never in the first post. It is most of the time not on the OP's info page but this time it is. This bike is your 1991 R100RT?

[LandLeftBehind]

Originally Posted by disston

So it finally happens. Three pages into a thread an the year model of the bike becomes an issue. It always is an issue but it's never in the first post. It is most of the time not on the OP's info page but this time it is. This bike is your 1991 R100RT?

yes

[Wirespokes]

A. Gunk. Carb Cleaner. Kerosene. White Gas.

B Not much. But you got the new Brass style - those shouldn't be as delicate as the aluminum ones. I do it by feel, so it's hard to put a ft/lbs figure on that. I'd go light on the torque, and if it leaks, snug it up a bit more. It's easy enough to reach when the bike is all together.

C. The gearshift seal needs to be pulled out - it won't just fall out. Remember how deep it is and press the new one in about the same.

[supershaft]

I just read through this thread for the first time. Well, I think I am the third guy who couldn't find a PN for a late model brass neutral switch? I have heard one exists but I have never seen it.

Why lube your splines? Does your clutch grab engaging or disengaging it? If not it's a waste of time. I know there are plenty of airheads out there that love the ritual of doing a job that they can actually do. That is if they don't over lube the splines and F up the clutch or not tighten down the drive shaft bolts tight enough so that the bolts come loose and F up a bunch of stuff. Lubing those splines does not make the splines last longer and chances are the bike needs attention elsewhere that it actually needs. Grabby clutch? Lube your splines. Otherwise, give your bike some attention it could use.

[disston]

It is sold by Hucky's http://www.bmwhucky.com/010023.html

$25.55

You have to call him and order over the phone he will explain how he does business. It involves no credit cards I think.

I think I have heard a similar item is sold by Motobins and maybe Ted Porter.

[supershaft]

Originally Posted by disston

It is sold by Hucky's http://www.bmwhucky.com/010023.html

$25.55

You have to call him and order over the phone he will explain how he does business. It involves no credit cards I think.

I think I have heard a similar item is sold by Motobins and maybe Ted Porter.

That's for trannies up to 9/74 the way I read it? the aluminum switch for the later models is down lower on the page.

[disston]

Originally Posted by supershaft

That's for trannies up to 9/74 the way I read it? the aluminum switch for the later models is down lower on the page.

I stopped looking and just grabbed the one that was brass not even thinking there were two switches. Of course there are.

It may be that he has a later switch in brass but it's not on the Web page. I just know that it is often recommended by others. And they say Hucky's has it.