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Old 02-05-2013, 10:22 AM   #16
Mtl_Biker
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Picard, I see from another thread you replied to that this GPS connector does indeed keep power on for about 30 seconds or so after the ignition is switched off. After living with that for a couple of years now with my K1300GT, I really don't like that and want to find a power source that switches off IMMEDIATELY when I turn the bike off. Does that "euro light" switch off immediately?
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Old 02-05-2013, 10:33 AM   #17
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GPS connector stays powered on for a bit, headlight bulbs go out so will the TT connector since it's hooked up to that circuit.
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Old 02-05-2013, 02:08 PM   #18
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Good stuff. Thanks! Hell, I forgot I bought one of those BMW pigtails some time ago...just found it in the toolbox...gonna wire it up and add the Fuse Block.

If using either of these CAN-Bus switched power sources (the BMW or the TT) plus a Fuse Block, are we still subject to the "Canbus might shut it down if it is too much draw" situation?

Without a full blown analysis of wattage here:
Scenario: heated vest plugged to outlet, GPS running on Fuse Block (switched source), LED lights running on Fuse Block (switched source), possibly one other warming accessory linked to Fuse Block (always hot, with an on/off switch on the accessory itself).

Would CAN-Bus go nuts in this scenario or is it only "seeing" the power draw from the directly connected stock plug?
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Old 02-05-2013, 03:02 PM   #19
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Using either of the switched power sources will NOT cause problems with the CAN-Bus system because the only thing connected to it would be the relay which turns on/off the draw to the fuse block. Your fuse block does NOT take its power from the switched power source! It takes it directly from the battery, controlled by the relay which itself draws so little power that it doesn't affect CAN-Bus.

I do suggest that you don't use anything "always hot" as one day you're going to forget about it and come back to a dead battery or worse. I run my heated gear (jacket and gloves) through my fuse block (switched) as well as an air compressor for the tires. No problem at all. And of course the little stuff - GPS, most lights, etc.) are even less problem.

Happy trails!


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Originally Posted by Gumbeaux View Post
Good stuff. Thanks! Hell, I forgot I bought one of those BMW pigtails some time ago...just found it in the toolbox...gonna wire it up and add the Fuse Block.

If using either of these CAN-Bus switched power sources (the BMW or the TT) plus a Fuse Block, are we still subject to the "Canbus might shut it down if it is too much draw" situation?

Without a full blown analysis of wattage here:
Scenario: heated vest plugged to outlet, GPS running on Fuse Block (switched source), LED lights running on Fuse Block (switched source), possibly one other warming accessory linked to Fuse Block (always hot, with an on/off switch on the accessory itself).

Would CAN-Bus go nuts in this scenario or is it only "seeing" the power draw from the directly connected stock plug?
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Old 02-05-2013, 03:55 PM   #20
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I see your point MtlBiker. Running from the cops takes more than being able to turn your GPS off but I do find it slightly annoying that I have to wait 30s to tell the GPS to stay on (those times when I want it to). For me that still wasn't worth drilling my headlight cover but that's a personal choice. Gambeaux, MtlBiker already answered your question. No power draw worth speaking of on the trigger wire - a few 10s of mW maybe.
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Old 02-05-2013, 05:09 PM   #21
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Thanks fellas. Appreciate the help!
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Old 02-06-2013, 08:30 AM   #22
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Laugh other ways ... no drilling no Can Bus...

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=857608
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Old 02-06-2013, 11:07 AM   #23
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Well the truth is that I only run from the cops in my dreams... I would never do it in real life. And I'm not too worried about when my GPS turns off either. It's my LED brake/running lights and front LED visibility lights that bother me most. I've got my fuse block getting its trigger from the GPS feed and that causes power to remain on for about 30 seconds after turning off the ignition. And my LED lights are BRIGHT! I will probably change the feed to something else on my K1300GT (even after almost 3 years with it the way it is) but certainly will use something else as the trigger on my new F800GS.

Cheers!


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I see your point MtlBiker. Running from the cops takes more than being able to turn your GPS off but I do find it slightly annoying that I have to wait 30s to tell the GPS to stay on (those times when I want it to). For me that still wasn't worth drilling my headlight cover but that's a personal choice. Gambeaux, MtlBiker already answered your question. No power draw worth speaking of on the trigger wire - a few 10s of mW maybe.
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Old 02-06-2013, 11:19 AM   #24
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Thanks for that, but is the "BMW Auto OFF Power Socket" thing you mention the accessory outlet on the bike? I'm going to have to move some stuff at the back of my garage and pull the tarp off my K1300GT to check, but I'm pretty sure that on that bike at least, the accessory outlet DOES maintain power for about the first 30 seconds exactly as the GPS connection does. Could it behave differently on different model BMWs? If it does shut off immediately with the ignition on the F800GS, then (if you can get to it) it would be a great option to use as the trigger for a relay.

If it does shut off immediately, then why the heck hasn't anyone else figured this out? :)

Good one!



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Old 02-06-2013, 02:41 PM   #25
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It doesn't - same as the GPS plug - power stays on for 30-60s until the CAN bus shuts down.
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Old 02-08-2013, 02:36 AM   #26
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Immediate Power Off Signal

Mtl_Biker

In my opinion, the best wire to control power that wants to go off immediately with the engine is the power to the headlight low beam. It comes on as soon as the bike starts and goes off immediately when you shut off. It has enough power available to supply any control circuit or relay. "As I remember" (famous last words) it is available in a few places, like on the harness going forward to the headlight. It also might be available under the seat on the left side. My Clymer manual has the correct wire color (I guess yellow) but we just got a bunch of snow and the book is out in the garage and it's after 3am. I've got it all taped up now, and didn't discover the Clymer manual with a Real Wiring Diagram until after I'd had to poke around a lot.

The wire to the accessory socket is handy, just not the proper wire.

I hope that this helps. Good luck.

Steve
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Old 02-08-2013, 08:08 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schai View Post
Mtl_Biker

In my opinion, the best wire to control power that wants to go off immediately with the engine is the power to the headlight low beam. It comes on as soon as the bike starts and goes off immediately when you shut off. It has enough power available to supply any control circuit or relay. "As I remember" (famous last words) it is available in a few places, like on the harness going forward to the headlight. It also might be available under the seat on the left side. My Clymer manual has the correct wire color (I guess yellow) but we just got a bunch of snow and the book is out in the garage and it's after 3am. I've got it all taped up now, and didn't discover the Clymer manual with a Real Wiring Diagram until after I'd had to poke around a lot.

The wire to the accessory socket is handy, just not the proper wire.

I hope that this helps. Good luck.

Steve
Thanks Steve. Good insight. I guess this Twisted Throttle connector facilitates the tap to the headlight as opposed to the way the BMW plug connects. Jeebus. I gotta quit reading the interwebs. Every time I go and do something based on some bit of forum advice, I read later about how it's not a good idea. Nature of the beast, I guess.

Bought a Shorai LiFePo 21A battery and wired up Fuseblock with the BMW switched connector. Running a GPS, LEDs, heated vest I am sure to run it down and get stranded at Starbucks. Will have to walk home and chalk it up as Adventure.

I will report back if any trouble...
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Old 02-08-2013, 08:23 AM   #28
Mtl_Biker
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Thank you Steve.

I haven't received my new F800GS yet (it's arriving at my dealer any day now) so I don't know where I'll be installing my fuse block and other stuff. On other bikes I've sometimes taken the trigger wire off the rear running light and that too has enough power to work well and it's instant on/off with the ignition.

Anyway, bottom line is that I'm not going to use the GPS connection as a trigger or the accessory outlet. So it'll either be the headlight low beam as you suggest (most probably) or something else.

My dealer tells me that there's no service manual from BMW yet which includes the 2013 model F800GS but he's going to order one for me when it does become available.

Cheers!


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Mtl_Biker

In my opinion, the best wire to control power that wants to go off immediately with the engine is the power to the headlight low beam. It comes on as soon as the bike starts and goes off immediately when you shut off. It has enough power available to supply any control circuit or relay. "As I remember" (famous last words) it is available in a few places, like on the harness going forward to the headlight. It also might be available under the seat on the left side. My Clymer manual has the correct wire color (I guess yellow) but we just got a bunch of snow and the book is out in the garage and it's after 3am. I've got it all taped up now, and didn't discover the Clymer manual with a Real Wiring Diagram until after I'd had to poke around a lot.

The wire to the accessory socket is handy, just not the proper wire.

I hope that this helps. Good luck.

Steve
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Old 02-08-2013, 08:28 AM   #29
Mtl_Biker
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You shouldn't have any trouble with that at all, Gumbeaux. What you did is certainly the easiest solution and the only downside (to me at least, but that's personal) is that the BMW switched connector keeps power on for about 30 seconds after you turn the ignition off. That won't cause you to run anything down. And certainly when you get off the bike at Starbucks you're wearing your heated vest so it doesn't stay powered on and on the bike when you go in.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gumbeaux View Post
Bought a Shorai LiFePo 21A battery and wired up Fuseblock with the BMW switched connector. Running a GPS, LEDs, heated vest I am sure to run it down and get stranded at Starbucks. Will have to walk home and chalk it up as Adventure.

I will report back if any trouble...
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Old 04-13-2014, 07:17 PM   #30
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Help!

So I picked up some advmonster led lights, a dimmer, a relay and a twisted throttle canbus adapter and am confused as to whether or not I need a canbus adapter for both the dimmer(which connects to the high beams) and the relay??

Originally I thought I only needed one canbus adapter but now I'm not so sure.

I'm trying to set it up to where the lights come on automatically when the bike is on and the lights go to whatever brightness I have the dimmer set to, yet when I hit the highbeams, the LEDs go to full blast.

Any help would be appreciated.
-t
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