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Old 02-06-2013, 06:24 AM   #1
Milehi OP
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SE suspension question.

I am trying the standard settings listed on the label, I like the suspension on the soft side. Will LESS rebound damping keep the rear wheel on the ground more over washboard? When climbing and turning switchbacks the rear hops more than I think it should.Thanks.
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Old 02-06-2013, 06:59 AM   #2
henryroten
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I think that less rebound will help on washboard but the key is to test it yourself until it feels right. Go through the same section with a lot of rebound and then with very little and see what direction produces the desired effect. But a shock revalve will do wonders to the ride. Superplush fixed mine.

Good luck
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Old 02-06-2013, 11:52 AM   #3
Milehi OP
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Rear shock preload.

My suspension sticker has rear preload in mm. What is measured to get this spec ?
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Old 02-06-2013, 12:55 PM   #4
Two Moto Kiwis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Milehi View Post
My suspension sticker has rear preload in mm. What is measured to get this spec ?
From memory it is one turn of the spring = 1 mm.

I am like you I prefer to run it softer, for your high speed compression on the rear you are pretty safe to turn it out completely, that is the 17 mm nut, for your low speed compression damping take that out about 3 - 4 clicks at a time or you will not notice any diference, don't be afraid to play with it way outside of the stickers parameters as you can always bring it back.

Lesser rebound will certainly help on washboard but may be springy on the open road, to me than is a small price to pay to get our fillings in place as we are not going warp factor two anyway.

Make sure your adjustments for softness for low speed compression damping and rebound damping are similar or you may experience packing, this is caused by to firmer rebound not allowing the wheel to return quick enough.

Hope this helps, any queries fire away.
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Old 02-06-2013, 01:58 PM   #5
SFKLR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Two Moto Kiwis View Post
From memory it is one turn of the spring = 1 mm.

I am like you I prefer to run it softer, for your high speed compression on the rear you are pretty safe to turn it out completely, that is the 17 mm nut, for your low speed compression damping take that out about 3 - 4 clicks at a time or you will not notice any diference, don't be afraid to play with it way outside of the stickers parameters as you can always bring it back.

Lesser rebound will certainly help on washboard but may be springy on the open road, to me than is a small price to pay to get our fillings in place as we are not going warp factor two anyway.

Make sure your adjustments for softness for low speed compression damping and rebound damping are similar or you may experience packing, this is caused by to firmer rebound not allowing the wheel to return quick enough.

Hope this helps, any queries fire away.
Can you clarify for me? The 17mm nut (photo below) doesn't actually get turned, does it? I thought the slotted screw in the middle of the nut was the only adjuster there. I don't know what "packing" is, but I suppose that's how I would describe what my rear shock feels like. I jump on it and it feels like it just goes down and flattens, rising back slowly. My XR650R used to spring back up again at an equal rate. I already have both adjusters (both slotted screws, the one on the reservoir pictured, and the one under the spring on the other side) turned out all the way now, and still lousy suspension. Shock was allegedly re-valved, but if the fluid is supposed to flow better, it doesn't seem to be.

PS - Enjoying your adventure blog!


Pic:
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Old 02-06-2013, 02:44 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SFKLR View Post
Can you clarify for me? The 17mm nut (photo below) doesn't actually get turned, does it? I thought the slotted screw in the middle of the nut was the only adjuster there. I don't know what "packing" is, but I suppose that's how I would describe what my rear shock feels like. I jump on it and it feels like it just goes down and flattens, rising back slowly. My XR650R used to spring back up again at an equal rate. I already have both adjusters (both slotted screws, the one on the reservoir pictured, and the one under the spring on the other side) turned out all the way now, and still lousy suspension. Shock was allegedly re-valved, but if the fluid is supposed to flow better, it doesn't seem to be.

PS - Enjoying your adventure blog!


Pic:
The 17mm nut you are referring to is the high speed compression adjuster. It helps on square edged pot holes, etc. where the middle adjuster is for the rolling bump or sand whoops. Some people like the high speed all the way out, some like it in the middle to one turn. I go 1 1/2 turns for no solid reason.
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Old 02-06-2013, 07:02 PM   #7
Two Moto Kiwis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SFKLR View Post
Can you clarify for me? The 17mm nut (photo below) doesn't actually get turned, does it? I thought the slotted screw in the middle of the nut was the only adjuster there. I don't know what "packing" is, but I suppose that's how I would describe what my rear shock feels like. I jump on it and it feels like it just goes down and flattens, rising back slowly. My XR650R used to spring back up again at an equal rate. I already have both adjusters (both slotted screws, the one on the reservoir pictured, and the one under the spring on the other side) turned out all the way now, and still lousy suspension. Shock was allegedly re-valved, but if the fluid is supposed to flow better, it doesn't seem to be.

PS - Enjoying your adventure blog!
Thanks for the comment on our blog, we are enjoying it too and feel lucky to be able to be on the road.

Sounds like you may have other issues depending on the valving and sound like it has been revalved fo someone heavier.

Quote:
Originally Posted by henryroten View Post
The 17mm nut you are referring to is the high speed compression adjuster. It helps on square edged pot holes, etc. where the middle adjuster is for the rolling bump or sand whoops. Some people like the high speed all the way out, some like it in the middle to one turn. I go 1 1/2 turns for no solid reason.
Couldn't have put that better., we run our high speed completely out but remember there is a cross over point as well and it is just how we like it.
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Old 02-08-2013, 12:39 PM   #8
James Siddall
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SE suspension answer

To the original question, a faster rebound clicker setting (more open), will likely improve the function over tightly spaced washboard by allowing the shock to recover before it encounters the next bump. a shocks inability to do this is what is commonly referred to as "packing"

The 17mm nut outside the shocks compression clicker is what is called the "high speed" compression adjuster. It is a bit of a misnomer, as real high speed movements are more regulated by the compression stack inside the shock.
The high speed adjuster actually increases or reduces spring preload against a miniature stack that is contained within the compression adjuster itself. This allows the bleed circuit to either hang in for longer or be overcome more easily, thus making it an adjuster for the adjuster if you will.
In practical application it works as sort of a dynamic ride height adjuster, either resisting or allowing squat to the rear.
Hope that helps, I find understanding the mechanism often help make understanding its function much clearer.

Cheers

James
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Old 02-09-2013, 11:13 AM   #9
ABuck99
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+1 Always nice when a pro offers some wisdom that be comprehended- thanks James

Quote:
Originally Posted by James Siddall View Post
To the original question, a faster rebound clicker setting (more open), will likely improve the function over tightly spaced washboard by allowing the shock to recover before it encounters the next bump. a shocks inability to do this is what is commonly referred to as "packing"

The 17mm nut outside the shocks compression clicker is what is called the "high speed" compression adjuster. It is a bit of a misnomer, as real high speed movements are more regulated by the compression stack inside the shock.
The high speed adjuster actually increases or reduces spring preload against a miniature stack that is contained within the compression adjuster itself. This allows the bleed circuit to either hang in for longer or be overcome more easily, thus making it an adjuster for the adjuster if you will.
In practical application it works as sort of a dynamic ride height adjuster, either resisting or allowing squat to the rear.
Hope that helps, I find understanding the mechanism often help make understanding its function much clearer.

Cheers

James
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Old 02-09-2013, 12:13 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by henryroten View Post
I go 1 1/2 turns for no solid reason.

Most honest answer to a suspension question ever posted...



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